pschrauber

I personal would leave the bike "as it is", instead I would "hunt" for probably missing components. Trying to get them original used or even new, (if they are priceworthy). A complete running and original bike is in the long run much more worth in it's collecting value then any bike that was tweaked, modded, ... I may lie wrong with this setting, however who knows quite exactly what in future is asked? Certainly I do also like to try out mods but do this only with extra parts I found through E-Bay, motor shows and Craiglists and I personal will never do any replacements or modifications where you can't restore the bike to it's initial condition.

I believe we need pic's to determine, figure out and well ... probably find out. A forum is nice with some speech but much nicer with some pic's. please

You can always ask the seller, (in advance), if he can ship the item 2nd class, to the sometimes different costs for freight this can also be related to the insurance of the goods that are shipped too. The costs for packaging are obligatory and have to be paid by the buyer.

Craig Mawlam has this service on his Yamaha Majesty site on display: http://www.yamaha-majesty.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=65

Looks to me at first sight as the shop that has done the honing has forgotten to smooth out the edges of the ports, but the pic's arn't very sharp. This would, -at last for me-, explain the heavy gutters you have in the piston skirt and the grounded area around the intake port.

There is an easy how to adjust from Öhlins for adjusting your shocks the right way in terms of: - sag, how much the shock shoud be compressed when the is standing and you stand/sit on the bike, - adjust preload, - adjust rebound, - ... http://www.zupin.de/uploads/tx_userzupindownloads/OM_07252-01_01.pdf (The site is in Germany but the instructions are completly in english, you can download the PDF for record)

If you can rebuild the threads on the swing arm then mill away the counterside of the axle where the bigger shank end sits. Then use some spacers and mount the nut again. The nut should by thighten the nut extract the axle at least turn the axle. which when it got loose a little bit mostly comes out with a round chisel and a small sledge. In my experience with swing arm axles this worked very good, when the axle has moved only some mm the worst part is over. Mostly the corrosion between the innertube of the engine bracket and the axle is the issue, (likewise on other bikes where the swing arrm axle supports the motor). If there is corrosion between the two steel sleeves and the axle where the brass bushings sits you might need to cut an edge in the axle to have a possibility to counter the swing arm axle with a big srew driver while thighten the nut. This procedure will scrap your swing arm axle but probably solve your swing arm bushings. (Sadly any maintaince to the swingarm is underrated).

I never heard or had this problem if the spring is mounted correctly and the sidestand or sidestand mount is not bend. Maybe the pins where you mount the spring or you might have a spring with a too big diameter. Yoou have pics from the mounting situation?

In the end o the 70's when I started with trials as a young teenager. Some riders using bikes like Montesa and Bultaco, (the SWM had a Deco as standard), had them fittig I because they make starting easier and you could use the deco as brake too when going down steep downhill. I believe it was more a fashion then really something extremly useful, (a deco does make starting easier for sure, also today). art

We had this theme a couple of month ago here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/35434-sherpa-fork-dust-seals/page__p__266225__hl__+seals%20+bultaco__fromsearch__1#entry266225

You get an PM.

This is very difficult to tell if we don't have a picture of the bike to look at. Without any photos any price recommandation given is far away of beeing sustainable.

Not me, as I had three Italjets back in the beginning to mid 80's. I do have more relations to the very first series and to the later Piuma ones which had more white in the color scheme and where some pounds lighter, but today this is really a question of personal taste! Anyway the rebuild of petermac looks really fantastic, here I give 12 points with additional three * !!! :thumbup:

It's a flash video, (btw: you have to press several times on the Avanzar...>> button until the video from 26.02.2010 will show up), if you have a stand alone Flash Player then this link might too help: http://www.zonatrial.net/video/38.flv The upload will take some time as mostly the complete video will have to be uploaded befor your player start, (the video file is 23.6 MB).

Sadly some the pages on Zonatrial are flash, ActivX, script or whatever based?, so there is no solid link to go directly to the video. You just have to look up the menues and press the mentioned buttons. Maybe your internet browser don't allow active scripting, flash, ... look up your internet settings or put Zonatrial.net to the trustworthy sites for your browser.

As already mentioned a ... "little bit wild" ..., I personal don't like the rims for tubless tires. The paint scheme is not mine either. I personal would have choosen a contemporary Grimeca hubs if a replacement has to be done, (Personal, I'am pleased with the original ones that does the work in adequate way, far for of beeing very good.) To the sprocket I believe the rear sprocket got so big as the brake has now changed the side from the left to the right side which decreased the diameter for the mounts of the rear secundary sprocket dramatical which doesn't look familiar to a Sherpa. Second the original ratio front sprocket to rear sprocket is 11 to 39 teeth. With the replaced hub there where probably only rear sprockets priceworthy available for them with around 45 to 46 teeth, (haven't counted the theeth in the pic?). As we don't know which front sprocket they used and I believe they just mounted a bigger sprocket in front to get the same ratio again. (the ratios: 11 - 39 and 12 - 42 and 13 - 46 are nearly equal.) That they did not have made a custom sprocket back may be a money problem, this look not so nice / unbalacend. The size of the rear exhaust is not designed by appereance??? There are sections of holetubes with insulation and voids separeted through metal baffles inside. The volume of the voids and lenghts and diameter of the tubes and holutubes are the result of a harmonization to the engine. As the behavior of a port controlled two-stroke engine is by a high ratio controlled by the exhaust system. The bike runs very well and the video is still at www.zonatrial.net but changed place. To find the video you have - to click on the left menu: video galeria on the main page, - then scroll down where the videos can be choosen, under the topic video galeria, there click on: Ver más video en Video Galeria... - then there is on the lower left side again a menu named: SELECCIONA VIDEO here click on: outdoor(58) - then click on: Avanzar...>> until the video from 26/02/2010 will show up: there it is now. <i completly agree the torque arm isn't very nice done, there are certainly better solution possible, again this detail looks unbalanced. Anyway the bike performs well as the video shows, (certainly 80% are the skills of the rider), the engine sounds good, it looks so too as the engine is much better adjusted to the throttle and responds much better. I personal would not go so far in modifying the Sherpa as much as shown in the video or photos. At first I will keep the original status of the bike for myself and for my descendants, (sadly the intrests in my family in trial is beside of me very low, but this might change, you never know here). So they can, -if they want- get the full experience how the bike worked when original/standard back then. I therefore first rebuilded my bike to original spec's. When there is a bright chance for getting some additional used components of the bike priceworthy I get them and rebuild + modify them contemporary, just as a hobby or in personal interest.

Sorry I forgot to post the link, here it is: http://www.secciormotos.es/bultaco

The bike was rebuild / modified by Jesús Bellindo Simon from SeccioR in Spain, he don't have the video but some pics from the bike on his site. They are pretty good in what they do maybe little bit wild compared to the other builders in Spain but their work, (expecially for exhausts), is exellent.

The OT stated the frame number begins with 191, so its a model 191 made between 09/1976 to 02/1977, (1451 bikes where made of this model). Changes to the previous model where principally in the crankshaft. These bikes where in standard outfit fitted with alloy fenders. The later 199 build from 05/1977 to 09/1978 where red and had plastic fenders, these had too black fork bottles and colored engine instead of polished alloy for the previous 191. The 199 got a new tank first made of fibreglas later in plastic, (where the design of decals to the early fibreglas tank was the same as for the 191), a new seat design, new airbox, new sidepanels and chain cover. The foot lever for the brake changed their position too. There where some national differences between the exported models, (the bikes that where delivered to other nations where fitted with different components), back then - in the mid to late 70's - Sherpas delivered to the UK where still fitted with the metal gas tank and also with a chain cover to the front sprocket too, to name some specials for the UK bikes.

Good hint, the book "Historia de la SherpaT" from Francois Stauffacher has some good color picture from nearly any Sherpa made by Bultaco, ISBN: 84-607-3101-4. The red color that matches very good is Ford Sunburst red XSC1493A. Google pic's "Bultaco Sherpa 191" or "Bultaco Sherpa 190" and you find some pictures oo, btw. the 190191 had alloy fenders when the came out of the factory.

It is btw easy to determine if you have high tensile bolts or not. They should have a tensile strengh of at least 800N/mm

This bike was restored bei Helmut Hacker in Germany, he had a few ... Puch's as I know, He donated the bike to the Austrian trials museum. If you have any questions belonging technique ... you will find him at German Trials Forum www.trialforum.net, username: helmi-1.

Still have my TY 125 which was my first "bigger" trialsbike, the only big issue I had where the forks, it took me only some weeks and after a "teenager + bike" flip I managed to bend the stanchions. Back then when all spare parts where available not the biggest problem to get a new pair, beside being very costly for me as a teenager in the beginning 80's. As I have luckily got better in riding, I still feel unconfortabele with the fork as the standard one feel somehow "flexy" too. To cure the softish steering feel a switch to a bigger stanchion diameter was very desired from my side. So I searched, found and bought a good working and priceworthy used fork and clamps from a TY 250 mono through E-Bay, (via international search), for my TY 125. Very recommended from my side! So forks and clamps from the TY 250 twinshock or mono model do show up, - not too often -, but they do, you just need some patience.

I was first a little bit suspicious about the disc brake, (had the Honda CB 750 FOUR in mind as one of the first bikes that was delivered with a disc brake in 1969 as standard production bike), anyway as some posted that this Cheetah had them earlier and I'am not familiar with this brand I would say yes as it is part of the history of the bike itself. The bike might be be ahead in technical standards in comparison to others from the same era but when this was already 45 years ago so too you can't exclude it in my opinion as it has the right to operate in non-compliance under a variance or continuation permit, (hope this is the right expression in German it's Bestandsschutz). It would be something different if the bike is fitted with a technical improvement that was already illegal for use back then. As a comparison for this we had a two wheel driven SWM, that was used in the beginning eighties in national trials. This bike was foreclosed from national trials competition after some events. A very unique construction that was reliable too but had so many advantages back then compared to other bikes that this type of additional drive was not allowed.

There were different fork clamps made some had a recess for the allen srcew, some not, the fork clamps for the last Sherpas had threads inside the fork clamps and a recess so there where no possibility for swapping the bolt direction. As hewson stated you can switch to zinc plated or stainless steel type bolts these are not so apperent like black ones.