The fork clamps for the 199b allow just one mounting direction as the threads are inside the clamps. My older Sherpa 175cc had allen screws the screw head towards driving direction.
I personal don't like the upper mount of the speedo above the upper fork clamp so much, in my personal view, (taste), the speedo really sits enthroned there. (this is my personal view)
So I will go beside the left side of the right engine mount.
For both posibilities you need a bracket where you can attach the speedo, its just a Z-angled piece of metal with to holes (one for the steering steam and another for the speedo) or a L-shaped metal sheet again with two holes one for the engine mount, the other for th speedo. If you don't get the parts then you have to make your own. Best in my experience is to fabricate a model out of plastic sheet or cardbord first to get the right dimensions. (so did I for the lower mount). Then cut and drill and bend the plate to the spec's or let it be done by a local locksmith. (You need a shorter speedo cable too for mounting the speedo to the left side of the front engine mount.)
speedo drive to the front wheel:
I don't believe there is enough space to fit a mechanical speedo drive, the one for the rear will not fit to the front axle and has the wrong ratio for a 21" wheel too.
Years ago i was looking around a car boot sale a mate of mine dragged me too, and i found a remote control bultaco sherpa trials bike plus rider in its box?? i think it was made in spain?? i'll get some pics and post them soon.
Anyone else ever seen a remote control trials bike?
Yep expecially the Bultaco bikes, sometimes they show up in French Flea-Bay or the French good coin bazar for silly high prices, must be very collectable? I Can't remember the price exactly but it was over 100
yes i do have the mount not made my mind up yet you can put them on the fork nut but i think ill have it in the center cheers. oh can you tell me witch is the best way to rout the speedo cabel from rear wheel?i know to rout it throw the loop on the rear witch way do i go from there? last time i tryed it i whent across the bash plate under the magneto case .and up throw the loop the engin wires go . and up to the speedo head only proplem is the cabel keeps poping out from under the magneto case it could easy get stuck on a branch or somthing
I believe there is not enough guidance for the speedo cable underneath the bash plate, I would mount an extra bracket/loop just near the swing arm so the speedo cable don't move to much under there. So any movement of the swing arm will not effect the cable so much. further on the cable is "only routed by the upper loop that is mounted near the ignition coil in the front. This set worked fine for me. I found a second pic, that shows the
rear loop just at the end of the bash plate:
In that area I would mount an additional loop/bracket if there isn't mount any.
The Powerjet carb is a 30mm (i think the smallest back then), and has a bush inserted into the outlet to reduce the diametre. The carb worked very well at all throttle positions, but alas the slide is now too worn out, and plastic float bowl has died from modern fuel. According to Lectron, bowls are not available as the new carbs are slightly different. Also slides and metering rods are $$$$.
Also in the throws of fitting a Dellorto to my M158 - same problem, how to adapt.
It sound like you still have a Lectron to the bike but parts are broken/unusable and expensive.
In case you are still interested in rebuilding the carb. You can ask Helmut Clasen in Ontario Canada. Helmut is a former ISDT rider and was a lokal Hercules and KTM dealer, he also sold Lectron carbs and has fittet some of his bikes with that carb. He is also very confident about Lectron carbs. You might send him an e-mail depending the parts you need for your carb.
Helmut Clasen have his own web page: Helmut Clasen, his e-mail adress is there mentioned too: (press on the turning @) in case this does not work for you: Helmut Clasen
i have the loop on the rear i also have a loop on the left magneot side but dont think theres one on the right might be wrong dont no with out looking but im pritty sure there isnt. just geting back to the center nut i do have a normal nut for it but realy want to stop with the origanal ive had the yoks powder coated
If you want to mount the speedo at the upper "yokes" = forkclamp then you need the speedo mount, this piece works as a washer and will prevent any damage.
If you don't want to mount the speedo up there; instead mount the speedo to left of the front engine mount then you can place a little self made washer between nut and upper fork clamp to prevent damage.
Size of the washer: inner diameter: 25,5mm outer diameter: 40mm, thickness around 2,00 mm aluminium or 1,00 - 1,50 mm stainless steel
would be OK. This is what I did, (sadly no pictures), as I will mount my speedo near the front engine mount.
hi all im puting speedo on me 199A i no theres to ways you can mount the speedo can any one tell me witch is the best way? allso the speedo cabel is runing from the rear wheel witch way do i rout the cabel last time i tryed it i whent throw the loop on the swing arm across the bash plate. and up throw the loop on the frame but the cabel keeps poping out from under the magnot cover is there a beter way of routing the cabel so this dosnt happen? one more thing is how tight do i tighten the bottom.and top yoke nuts? i know they should be tightend up with a c spanner but havent got one. and dont no what size to get?
Best way to mount the speedo drive is still the rear, for mounting the cable, there should be welded steel ring (loop) near the mount for the side where you have to feed-trough the cable. (I believe that is the one you mentioned already in your posting).
Then there should be a second steel ring (loop) on the right side where the bash plate is mounted where you again should feed-trough the cable, see in the pic:
From then its up to you if you want to mount the speedo on the top of the upper fork clamp or at the left side of the front engine mount. The first solution is much better readable, the seond better hided.
Standard was the top mount, but many riders back then changed the position down to the left of the front engine mount because the speedo was better hided there and this position was standard with the older models up to 1974 I believe so you could simply order the bracket for this mount as a spare part.
For the top yoke nut I take a big ratchet socket for the yoke for the bearings I use a special spanner, you can take a small chisel too, but use it very carefully.
The original grips for the Sherpas as I know where made by Gonelli and are in black color, (as you mentioned grey in your first post?), The Gonelli grips have the Bultaco logo stamped in the rubber on the ends of the grips.
Are you searching these, should I post a pic for comparison?
(I don't have made any pic's yet, but it's easy to do so)
EDIT
Found them, here the standard ones:
With rips, Enduro:
Modiefied standard ones with an extra noth to safty wire the grip
and no outer humps on the ends. (Back then it was very commen to grind away the outer humps of the grips, here this is already done).
There were some Sherpas fitted with flat-slide carbs in the end of the seventies, they used the carbs from Lectron:
I believe the use of this flat-slide carbs came more from the MX and Enduro before the better Japanes carbs like Keihin showed up. As the Lectrons showed good results for the MX and Enduro bikes some rides tried them out on their trials bikes too.
Here a Pursang that comes with three carbs, the Bing, (original), the Lectron which they will have used as an improvement and a Keihin when these showed up in the mid 80's.
A very nice bike, with Simmon fork's! and long travel Koni's it was prepared by Gary and David Bailey, sadly it is on sale over the pond and no bargain. Baileys Bultaco on sale
Anyway the Lectron carb is best for bikes that runs in mid to upper rpm, I do not believe that you have any benefits with this very special carb mounted in bikes that produces their power from idle up???
Would be interesting to hear any experience from someone, maybe from USA and Australia as there where most Lectrons sold?
The Dell'Orto PHBL is an old mate in carburation, you could buy this carb in the 80's, the carb was already used on Bultacos back then too, (as f.e. the Lectron carb in the end 70's), so I think it is contemporary. The carb is at least where I live easier to set up/jet, then it is so much easier too to get spare parts, different jets, for a Dell'Orto then for a Bing 54.
The smaller rubber intake for the carb sounds interesting, but I will stay with my standard one, so if I need to swap the carb again, (for setting up the bike in delivery condition or the frequently technical inspection from road and traffic authority in D, (the reg. papers have the Bing recorded), I don't need or have to hassle around with any other extra pieces.
Another + point for the Dell'Orto is the combination with the transparent bowl that is as Felix wrote in the Trialsport article something for lazy guys that want to know in forehand if there is a need to clean the bowl or not, (beside the tricky look).
There is not such a big difference in power output between the both carbsin my personal experience, beside that the engine does respond better and runs more even, (consistent), with the Italien carb .
You need to turn you a bushing that has the outer diameter of the Bing and the inner diamter of the Dell' Orto and then it will fit very good. I used polyamide for the bushing. Inner diameter of the bushing was turned very close to the Dellorto so it sits very thight. For the intake side of the carb I made a srew on bushing where the inner side is curved:
Comparison carbs, Bing and Dell' Orto:
Dell' Orto with bushings on both sides:
The transparent bowl is just an add-on, contemporary!, as I don't like the black plastic ones, these transparent
plastic bowls where reprted in German Trialsport magazin in 1981, you still get them from Malossi in Italy,
the given adress in the 32 year old article shown below doesn't exist any more:
hi all im looking for some stickers for my fork sliders bultaco ones tryed bultaco uk they dont do them so as anybody know were i can get some from
There where a lot of different stickers on the lower fork sliders back then, just to name the most commen back then, some had "Michelin" others "Bultaco"(*) even "Betor" Stickers for Bultaco showed up back then.
Some had the standard Bultaco logo and some even had these tiny round Bultaco Logo decals glued to the lower stanchions (just under the dust covers of the fork).
Which one do you need? Ypu get some of the mentioned above from Iv
NOS pistons are still in limited numbers available. They don't have the holes you have to take the measurements for drilling the two holes in the piston from the cylinder or the old piston, (if you trust the holes of old piston).
When I got the piston I was again astonished about the size and took a picture in combination with a piston of a 500cc KTM engine, this is really a big "bucket" for 350cc.
In case you don't find any better matching color a second layer of clear coat paint on PU basis will also solve problems with the paint and petrol, IF the clear coat that might be available to your color is based on PU.
When doing rattle can paint jobs the clear coat has as a rule of thump to be applied around 30 minutes after you have done the regular paint job. If you apply the clear coat just after half an hour the paint layer will insolveable connected with the paint. Give's a better protection against scratches, ... too.
If you want to strenghten the paint- and clear-coat- coatings the painted parts should be temperd, (heat threatend), a couple of hours with around 80
found a paint in halfords yesterday that is a close match
a good find.
The Italjet frog green is really wicket, only a little bit darker, (more green), and a touch more yellow then it would been perfect. As you need at least two coatings and if there is no rush I would try to find the race green 77 or Opel Signalgr
To be exactly I have them both (Betor and Magicals) and yes the Magicals are much better then the Betors they even look better too.
BUT the OP has given a money limit and a pair of good Magicals are twice as much as the OP want to pay. As this is his second Bultaco rebuild, do we know what he want to do with the bike?
I found the pic's that I did not find while writing down my first post in this thread, here all three shocks for a comparison, (in the middle the original ones):
It is also possible to outclass even Magical shocks for around four times as much money the OP want to pay:
Extremly tricky looking and still contemporary and very good working if you use nitrogen as gas are French Fournales shocks, these where used by some world class riders in the beginning eighties, one Bultacos and Italjets (which are the green clones, I had some of them too).
a good find.
(around 700
Speedo
in Bultaco
Posted
To the fork clamps pinch bolts:
The fork clamps for the 199b allow just one mounting direction as the threads are inside the clamps. My older Sherpa 175cc had allen screws the screw head towards driving direction.
I personal don't like the upper mount of the speedo above the upper fork clamp so much, in my personal view, (taste), the speedo really sits enthroned there. (this is my personal view)
So I will go beside the left side of the right engine mount.
For both posibilities you need a bracket where you can attach the speedo, its just a Z-angled piece of metal with to holes (one for the steering steam and another for the speedo) or a L-shaped metal sheet again with two holes one for the engine mount, the other for th speedo. If you don't get the parts then you have to make your own. Best in my experience is to fabricate a model out of plastic sheet or cardbord first to get the right dimensions. (so did I for the lower mount). Then cut and drill and bend the plate to the spec's or let it be done by a local locksmith. (You need a shorter speedo cable too for mounting the speedo to the left side of the front engine mount.)
speedo drive to the front wheel:
I don't believe there is enough space to fit a mechanical speedo drive, the one for the rear will not fit to the front axle and has the wrong ratio for a 21" wheel too.