pschrauber

No idea, the modern one's are easy to get, the old style ones I haven't seen in decades. They where commen on the faster dirt bikes, on trials bikes I haven't seen them at least where I live. Having an old enduro bike too, myself and even the guy's riding likewise old crap through the woods now use the newer ones, (if they mount them), as the older foam of these "anti blister discs" easily soak up water and mud. I use gloves while riding so no need here. I postet this interesting question in two more enduro/MX nike related forums, we'll see i someone has a ressource.

Ahh... you ment throttel grip "donuts"!

The original grips for the Sherpas as I know where made by Gonelli and are in black color, (as you mentioned grey in your first post?), The Gonelli grips have the Bultaco logo stamped in the rubber on the ends of the grips. Are you searching these, should I post a pic for comparison? (I don't have made any pic's yet, but it's easy to do so) EDIT Found them, here the standard ones: With rips, Enduro: Modiefied standard ones with an extra noth to safty wire the grip and no outer humps on the ends. (Back then it was very commen to grind away the outer humps of the grips, here this is already done).

There were some Sherpas fitted with flat-slide carbs in the end of the seventies, they used the carbs from Lectron: I believe the use of this flat-slide carbs came more from the MX and Enduro before the better Japanes carbs like Keihin showed up. As the Lectrons showed good results for the MX and Enduro bikes some rides tried them out on their trials bikes too. Here a Pursang that comes with three carbs, the Bing, (original), the Lectron which they will have used as an improvement and a Keihin when these showed up in the mid 80's. A very nice bike, with Simmon fork's! and long travel Koni's it was prepared by Gary and David Bailey, sadly it is on sale over the pond and no bargain. Baileys Bultaco on sale Anyway the Lectron carb is best for bikes that runs in mid to upper rpm, I do not believe that you have any benefits with this very special carb mounted in bikes that produces their power from idle up??? Would be interesting to hear any experience from someone, maybe from USA and Australia as there where most Lectrons sold?

The Dell'Orto PHBL is an old mate in carburation, you could buy this carb in the 80's, the carb was already used on Bultacos back then too, (as f.e. the Lectron carb in the end 70's), so I think it is contemporary. The carb is at least where I live easier to set up/jet, then it is so much easier too to get spare parts, different jets, for a Dell'Orto then for a Bing 54. The smaller rubber intake for the carb sounds interesting, but I will stay with my standard one, so if I need to swap the carb again, (for setting up the bike in delivery condition or the frequently technical inspection from road and traffic authority in D, (the reg. papers have the Bing recorded), I don't need or have to hassle around with any other extra pieces. Another + point for the Dell'Orto is the combination with the transparent bowl that is as Felix wrote in the Trialsport article something for lazy guys that want to know in forehand if there is a need to clean the bowl or not, (beside the tricky look). There is not such a big difference in power output between the both carbsin my personal experience, beside that the engine does respond better and runs more even, (consistent), with the Italien carb .

You need to turn you a bushing that has the outer diameter of the Bing and the inner diamter of the Dell' Orto and then it will fit very good. I used polyamide for the bushing. Inner diameter of the bushing was turned very close to the Dellorto so it sits very thight. For the intake side of the carb I made a srew on bushing where the inner side is curved: Comparison carbs, Bing and Dell' Orto: Dell' Orto with bushings on both sides: The transparent bowl is just an add-on, contemporary!, as I don't like the black plastic ones, these transparent plastic bowls where reprted in German Trialsport magazin in 1981, you still get them from Malossi in Italy, the given adress in the 32 year old article shown below doesn't exist any more:

I guess, as you haven't posted any information about the form or content depending the decal, you are searching you mean probably the Bultaco sign as silver-grey colored with a black outline? (in pic below in the upper row). If not the Betor decals in the pic below: The Betor decal for the fork is in the lower row the left decal. The Betor decal for the rear shock is in the middle of the lower row. Bultaco logo in the pic below, right side: Some riders used the tiny Bultaco decal that suppose to come to the places where the imprints of the die casting of the fenders where and glued them to the lower stanchions. Any further information which decal you mean?

There where a lot of different stickers on the lower fork sliders back then, just to name the most commen back then, some had "Michelin" others "Bultaco"(*) even "Betor" Stickers for Bultaco showed up back then. Some had the standard Bultaco logo and some even had these tiny round Bultaco Logo decals glued to the lower stanchions (just under the dust covers of the fork). Which one do you need? Ypu get some of the mentioned above from Iv

NOS pistons are still in limited numbers available. They don't have the holes you have to take the measurements for drilling the two holes in the piston from the cylinder or the old piston, (if you trust the holes of old piston). When I got the piston I was again astonished about the size and took a picture in combination with a piston of a 500cc KTM engine, this is really a big "bucket" for 350cc.

In case you don't find any better matching color a second layer of clear coat paint on PU basis will also solve problems with the paint and petrol, IF the clear coat that might be available to your color is based on PU. When doing rattle can paint jobs the clear coat has as a rule of thump to be applied around 30 minutes after you have done the regular paint job. If you apply the clear coat just after half an hour the paint layer will insolveable connected with the paint. Give's a better protection against scratches, ... too. If you want to strenghten the paint- and clear-coat- coatings the painted parts should be temperd, (heat threatend), a couple of hours with around 80

a good find. The Italjet frog green is really wicket, only a little bit darker, (more green), and a touch more yellow then it would been perfect. As you need at least two coatings and if there is no rush I would try to find the race green 77 or Opel Signalgr

How about the international 47. fourstroke trial in northern Germany, from 17. - 18. march 2012. It's too the first event in the Inter-Nordic Pre 65 Cup, with is held in Germany, Denmark, Finland and Sweden. The terms of holding since 2010: Inter-Nordic Cup It's a two days event with at least around 40 riders from Spain up to northern Scandinavia will participade. Classes: 1.) pre - 65 rigid-frame 4-stroke,(25 sections) 2.) pre - 65 pre-unit 4-stroke, (big irons) over 120 kg 3.) pre - 65 unit-engines 4-stroke 4.) pre - 65 2-stroke 5.) 1966 and younger twinshock 2-stroke 6.) 1966 and younger twinshock 4-stroke 7.) pre - 65 special-class, (modified bikes class 1 4 pre 65) 8.) old boys over 60 years, bikes of class 1-7 (25 sections) Course: 1 Lap per day with 30 sections, (ca. 4-5 km) sections: tons of sand, some mud, treeroots and some stony ones routes: only one for all classes judging: 0-1-2-3-5 non stop, (stop = 5) entry fee: 40Euro for both days including meal for a party on Saturday evening. closing of entries: 01.03.2012, later entries are not accepted Date: 17-03-2012 and 18-03-2012 Start on Saturday: 01:00 PM, end: 06:00 PM. Start on Sunday: 10:00 AM, end: 11:00 PM. Award ceremony, Sunday: 03:00 PM at the launch site (Carpentry) Brockhöfe. Overnighting: Possibilities for night stops can be orderd at the organizer in forhand, different overnight accommodation possible: (riding- hall, restaurant/public house, private home or hotel) Food and Drinks: Food and drinks from Friday to Sunday will be provided. (including coffee and cake). Insurance and Liability: Each participant is responsible for itself of liability for the organizers and staff and the owner of the land. Wear a helmet! The event organizer is insured by a liability insurance policy. Tents and Campers: Tents and campers may camp free at the carpenter site (launch site). Parking is prohibited on the main road! Electricity flat rate of 5Euro. Guests of honor: They are inviting all former driver. entry form(in German) About the event: This trial is certainly more pre-65 and familiar oriented but a good place to keep in touch with other riders national and international.

For "cosmetic" issues I used rattle can paint and a touch-up pen from Opel / Vauxhaull back then, they had this "Race Green 77" color that matches very well, (The paint name in German for Opel was: Opel Signalgr

Me too! To be exactly I have them both (Betor and Magicals) and yes the Magicals are much better then the Betors they even look better too. BUT the OP has given a money limit and a pair of good Magicals are twice as much as the OP want to pay. As this is his second Bultaco rebuild, do we know what he want to do with the bike? I found the pic's that I did not find while writing down my first post in this thread, here all three shocks for a comparison, (in the middle the original ones): It is also possible to outclass even Magical shocks for around four times as much money the OP want to pay: Extremly tricky looking and still contemporary and very good working if you use nitrogen as gas are French Fournales shocks, these where used by some world class riders in the beginning eighties, one Bultacos and Italjets (which are the green clones, I had some of them too). Here the model list from Fournals: Production list Fournales Shocks The prices, (around 700

As I know from TWN Club pages the bike are ridden in Italy. The Swiss web page from Patrick Frei (webmaster) of the Twin-Club-Zurich (TWN Club Z

+1, this summ's it up very well I believe (not sure???). These French and Italian builders have this kind of passion while doing things. Their ability to combination technic and design is special, another one:

Yes this is one I believe, I'am not so familiar with the brand, there are different puller models available, here some others that also will do the job without arms popping off, this one is very study and helpful also in other situations: This one would do the job getting off any smaller bushes or bobbings from axles too:

There is a Motobecane trials club in Belgique, they have lots of pic's and videos with there Montebecane trials bikes: Montebecane Trials Club Tobec's is a French a nickname for "Moped" I believe. Small bikes with 50cc and pedals from Montebecane and Motocomfort as they produces thousends of these small 50cc bikes for getting around. You find them googling Pic's search using "Tobec AV 42" / "Tobec AV 44" / "Tobec AV 46". I have still a likewise build "Tunturi mopo" from 1964 with Puch fan cooled engine very nice bikes for getting around, (sadly no pic's on hand to show ).

If your gear puller is fitted with an additional joint it is nearly impossible, If you have a puller with straight arms mounted to a rectangle arm where they can be fixed in a adjustable position it should work as it stucks normally not very much? May just a little bit of heat or better warming up to get the rubber soft and then turning with a good plier on the edge not the surface for the oil seal? To the part itself, may be Bultaco UK have them, if not Orlando Calonder should have them, or just refabrication, not a so difficult part to reproduce as it is round and you "only" need a lathe.

The bobbin (Kurbelwellenbüchse) should been removed to replace the the inner O-Ring as you said. May be you need a gear puller to pull it out. After intsalling the crank seal it is first possible to mount the bobbin as the outer surface of the bobbin is the running surface of the outer crank seal. How did come the oil seal of the crank seal off if you did not detach the bobbin? As the seal has to slip over the edge of the bobbin it must have been not so easy? May be it's just some corrosion use some penetrating oil and wait, while attaching a puller small strokes with a small hammer might also help, (no force!). I personal would not try to heat up the shaft of the crank, might change the hardness of the crankshaft.

As you have already opend the mid section. The old mesh is the riminding part of the old insulation which kept your former rockwool insulation material which sat between the mesh and the holetube protecting it from beeing blown away. A new wrap with silencer insulation pads and then with silencer steel wool will reduce noise and might too improve performance. If the holes of the holetube look clogged clean them so the holes have the full diameter, this will increase noise reduction, easiest way to clean the holetube is blasting.

It depends to the point of view: A: If the discoloring, ... is real nice patina it might look good too, it's may be better to preserve it as it is. B: If there are discoloring and scratches from former abuse by a pre owner in combination with erratic painted logos you might not have any consederations about the texture because the erratic logos and scratches are so ugly that you have to get rid of them. C: Mounting a brand new gas tank, (you get the gas tank as a replica as already mentioned here before), on a bike with has some patina might disturb the complete look IMHO too? So as a gas tank has something of the "face" of the bike this question is not so easy to answer. Show some pic's so any comments get a basis.

Brakepads: As you already have steel lining, NewFren still produces grooved brake pads for Bultaco, they are an improvement, btw. as newer the pads as softer and better they grip, (the age of your pads can be your problem, aslo do the have full contact with the linings in the hub? Newfren: NewFren Italy I believe Bultaco UK has them too. Exhaust: No experience with other exhaust as the original one, (beside a second custom modded Bultaco exhaust, end and mid section), will get the engine more lively without gaining noise, (not more noise is very important IMHO). Clutch: Never have tried a hydraulic rebuild of the clutch, is this contemporary? Hans-Jörg Pfahler in Germany still offers a complete clutch rebuild where he will modify the actuator and the clutchbasket, ... with different plates, ... at the end you get a one finger clutch ... Pfahler Bultaco (no hydraulic components used) Or ask Wayne Weedon from billetparts, he can also enhance the clutch actuator: billetparts, This is alraedy a big improve over the standard set up, in my experience. To rework the complete clutch, add hydraulic actuating,... (belongs to the owner so it's up to you). I have a second sidecase with the modificated clutch actuator, so if I want too, I can always switch back to the original set-up, (therefore had no need for the Pfahler modification, (my personal view)).

I the gum isn't too old, (some kind of slimy), a carb cleaner will do the job, even normal gas and diesel oil. When it got gelantinous a carb cleaner may get it dissolved may be not. Then you can give the carb to your next shop where they have a ultra soni cleaner. If the gum got "crusty", (couple of years and some other weirdo debris show up too then this can bee a real issue), looking like this: As "our" new gas don't have a long storage time, I drain the carb, (and gas tank), for longer storage period then two weeks.