pschrauber

Yes the oil seals are different, instead of two standard is now one single oil-seal with a double lip and an outer dust lip mounted. The double mounted oil seals did not last very long in my experience and have a stopp - loss momentum. The different ones hopfully last longer and have a much less stop - loss momentum as the standard ones, I additional sat oil-seal grease between the lips of the seal. To fit the standard dust covers with these oil-seals you have to shave away the lowest lip of the three inside the outer dust cover, this takes time as you have to be very carefully not to damage the other two lips of the dustcover. Any damage to these lips will be visible on the stanchions as the wiping effect will be lowered where they got damaged). Looks like it should:

I believe there is not enough guidance for the speedo cable underneath the bash plate, I would mount an extra bracket/loop just near the swing arm so the speedo cable don't move to much under there. So any movement of the swing arm will not effect the cable so much. further on the cable is "only routed by the upper loop that is mounted near the ignition coil in the front. This set worked fine for me. I found a second pic, that shows the rear loop just at the end of the bash plate: In that area I would mount an additional loop/bracket if there isn't mount any.

It sound like you still have a Lectron to the bike but parts are broken/unusable and expensive. In case you are still interested in rebuilding the carb. You can ask Helmut Clasen in Ontario Canada. Helmut is a former ISDT rider and was a lokal Hercules and KTM dealer, he also sold Lectron carbs and has fittet some of his bikes with that carb. He is also very confident about Lectron carbs. You might send him an e-mail depending the parts you need for your carb. Helmut Clasen have his own web page: Helmut Clasen, his e-mail adress is there mentioned too: (press on the turning @) in case this does not work for you: Helmut Clasen

If you want to mount the speedo at the upper "yokes" = forkclamp then you need the speedo mount, this piece works as a washer and will prevent any damage. If you don't want to mount the speedo up there; instead mount the speedo to left of the front engine mount then you can place a little self made washer between nut and upper fork clamp to prevent damage. Size of the washer: inner diameter: 25,5mm outer diameter: 40mm, thickness around 2,00 mm aluminium or 1,00 - 1,50 mm stainless steel would be OK. This is what I did, (sadly no pictures), as I will mount my speedo near the front engine mount.

We call it a Nutspanner = noth spanner/tensioner. Looks like this for example: Here the page I found the one above on a US page, (the German tool sites are maybe a little bit confusing), so you might find something similar in the UK: www.MotionPro.com You can use them for some rear shocks too.

Still available in Spain through Motos del Abuelo: info(at)motosdelabuelo.com Their parts inventory you find here: Bultaco parts catalog (It's a PDF, will take time, look up page 16. (2,50

Best way to mount the speedo drive is still the rear, for mounting the cable, there should be welded steel ring (loop) near the mount for the side where you have to feed-trough the cable. (I believe that is the one you mentioned already in your posting). Then there should be a second steel ring (loop) on the right side where the bash plate is mounted where you again should feed-trough the cable, see in the pic: From then its up to you if you want to mount the speedo on the top of the upper fork clamp or at the left side of the front engine mount. The first solution is much better readable, the seond better hided. Standard was the top mount, but many riders back then changed the position down to the left of the front engine mount because the speedo was better hided there and this position was standard with the older models up to 1974 I believe so you could simply order the bracket for this mount as a spare part. For the top yoke nut I take a big ratchet socket for the yoke for the bearings I use a special spanner, you can take a small chisel too, but use it very carefully.

No idea, the modern one's are easy to get, the old style ones I haven't seen in decades. They where commen on the faster dirt bikes, on trials bikes I haven't seen them at least where I live. Having an old enduro bike too, myself and even the guy's riding likewise old crap through the woods now use the newer ones, (if they mount them), as the older foam of these "anti blister discs" easily soak up water and mud. I use gloves while riding so no need here. I postet this interesting question in two more enduro/MX nike related forums, we'll see i someone has a ressource.

Ahh... you ment throttel grip "donuts"!

The original grips for the Sherpas as I know where made by Gonelli and are in black color, (as you mentioned grey in your first post?), The Gonelli grips have the Bultaco logo stamped in the rubber on the ends of the grips. Are you searching these, should I post a pic for comparison? (I don't have made any pic's yet, but it's easy to do so) EDIT Found them, here the standard ones: With rips, Enduro: Modiefied standard ones with an extra noth to safty wire the grip and no outer humps on the ends. (Back then it was very commen to grind away the outer humps of the grips, here this is already done).

There were some Sherpas fitted with flat-slide carbs in the end of the seventies, they used the carbs from Lectron: I believe the use of this flat-slide carbs came more from the MX and Enduro before the better Japanes carbs like Keihin showed up. As the Lectrons showed good results for the MX and Enduro bikes some rides tried them out on their trials bikes too. Here a Pursang that comes with three carbs, the Bing, (original), the Lectron which they will have used as an improvement and a Keihin when these showed up in the mid 80's. A very nice bike, with Simmon fork's! and long travel Koni's it was prepared by Gary and David Bailey, sadly it is on sale over the pond and no bargain. Baileys Bultaco on sale Anyway the Lectron carb is best for bikes that runs in mid to upper rpm, I do not believe that you have any benefits with this very special carb mounted in bikes that produces their power from idle up??? Would be interesting to hear any experience from someone, maybe from USA and Australia as there where most Lectrons sold?

The Dell'Orto PHBL is an old mate in carburation, you could buy this carb in the 80's, the carb was already used on Bultacos back then too, (as f.e. the Lectron carb in the end 70's), so I think it is contemporary. The carb is at least where I live easier to set up/jet, then it is so much easier too to get spare parts, different jets, for a Dell'Orto then for a Bing 54. The smaller rubber intake for the carb sounds interesting, but I will stay with my standard one, so if I need to swap the carb again, (for setting up the bike in delivery condition or the frequently technical inspection from road and traffic authority in D, (the reg. papers have the Bing recorded), I don't need or have to hassle around with any other extra pieces. Another + point for the Dell'Orto is the combination with the transparent bowl that is as Felix wrote in the Trialsport article something for lazy guys that want to know in forehand if there is a need to clean the bowl or not, (beside the tricky look). There is not such a big difference in power output between the both carbsin my personal experience, beside that the engine does respond better and runs more even, (consistent), with the Italien carb .

You need to turn you a bushing that has the outer diameter of the Bing and the inner diamter of the Dell' Orto and then it will fit very good. I used polyamide for the bushing. Inner diameter of the bushing was turned very close to the Dellorto so it sits very thight. For the intake side of the carb I made a srew on bushing where the inner side is curved: Comparison carbs, Bing and Dell' Orto: Dell' Orto with bushings on both sides: The transparent bowl is just an add-on, contemporary!, as I don't like the black plastic ones, these transparent plastic bowls where reprted in German Trialsport magazin in 1981, you still get them from Malossi in Italy, the given adress in the 32 year old article shown below doesn't exist any more:

I guess, as you haven't posted any information about the form or content depending the decal, you are searching you mean probably the Bultaco sign as silver-grey colored with a black outline? (in pic below in the upper row). If not the Betor decals in the pic below: The Betor decal for the fork is in the lower row the left decal. The Betor decal for the rear shock is in the middle of the lower row. Bultaco logo in the pic below, right side: Some riders used the tiny Bultaco decal that suppose to come to the places where the imprints of the die casting of the fenders where and glued them to the lower stanchions. Any further information which decal you mean?

There where a lot of different stickers on the lower fork sliders back then, just to name the most commen back then, some had "Michelin" others "Bultaco"(*) even "Betor" Stickers for Bultaco showed up back then. Some had the standard Bultaco logo and some even had these tiny round Bultaco Logo decals glued to the lower stanchions (just under the dust covers of the fork). Which one do you need? Ypu get some of the mentioned above from Iv

NOS pistons are still in limited numbers available. They don't have the holes you have to take the measurements for drilling the two holes in the piston from the cylinder or the old piston, (if you trust the holes of old piston). When I got the piston I was again astonished about the size and took a picture in combination with a piston of a 500cc KTM engine, this is really a big "bucket" for 350cc.

In case you don't find any better matching color a second layer of clear coat paint on PU basis will also solve problems with the paint and petrol, IF the clear coat that might be available to your color is based on PU. When doing rattle can paint jobs the clear coat has as a rule of thump to be applied around 30 minutes after you have done the regular paint job. If you apply the clear coat just after half an hour the paint layer will insolveable connected with the paint. Give's a better protection against scratches, ... too. If you want to strenghten the paint- and clear-coat- coatings the painted parts should be temperd, (heat threatend), a couple of hours with around 80

a good find. The Italjet frog green is really wicket, only a little bit darker, (more green), and a touch more yellow then it would been perfect. As you need at least two coatings and if there is no rush I would try to find the race green 77 or Opel Signalgr

How about the international 47. fourstroke trial in northern Germany, from 17. - 18. march 2012. It's too the first event in the Inter-Nordic Pre 65 Cup, with is held in Germany, Denmark, Finland and Sweden. The terms of holding since 2010: Inter-Nordic Cup It's a two days event with at least around 40 riders from Spain up to northern Scandinavia will participade. Classes: 1.) pre - 65 rigid-frame 4-stroke,(25 sections) 2.) pre - 65 pre-unit 4-stroke, (big irons) over 120 kg 3.) pre - 65 unit-engines 4-stroke 4.) pre - 65 2-stroke 5.) 1966 and younger twinshock 2-stroke 6.) 1966 and younger twinshock 4-stroke 7.) pre - 65 special-class, (modified bikes class 1 4 pre 65) 8.) old boys over 60 years, bikes of class 1-7 (25 sections) Course: 1 Lap per day with 30 sections, (ca. 4-5 km) sections: tons of sand, some mud, treeroots and some stony ones routes: only one for all classes judging: 0-1-2-3-5 non stop, (stop = 5) entry fee: 40Euro for both days including meal for a party on Saturday evening. closing of entries: 01.03.2012, later entries are not accepted Date: 17-03-2012 and 18-03-2012 Start on Saturday: 01:00 PM, end: 06:00 PM. Start on Sunday: 10:00 AM, end: 11:00 PM. Award ceremony, Sunday: 03:00 PM at the launch site (Carpentry) Brockhöfe. Overnighting: Possibilities for night stops can be orderd at the organizer in forhand, different overnight accommodation possible: (riding- hall, restaurant/public house, private home or hotel) Food and Drinks: Food and drinks from Friday to Sunday will be provided. (including coffee and cake). Insurance and Liability: Each participant is responsible for itself of liability for the organizers and staff and the owner of the land. Wear a helmet! The event organizer is insured by a liability insurance policy. Tents and Campers: Tents and campers may camp free at the carpenter site (launch site). Parking is prohibited on the main road! Electricity flat rate of 5Euro. Guests of honor: They are inviting all former driver. entry form(in German) About the event: This trial is certainly more pre-65 and familiar oriented but a good place to keep in touch with other riders national and international.

For "cosmetic" issues I used rattle can paint and a touch-up pen from Opel / Vauxhaull back then, they had this "Race Green 77" color that matches very well, (The paint name in German for Opel was: Opel Signalgr

Me too! To be exactly I have them both (Betor and Magicals) and yes the Magicals are much better then the Betors they even look better too. BUT the OP has given a money limit and a pair of good Magicals are twice as much as the OP want to pay. As this is his second Bultaco rebuild, do we know what he want to do with the bike? I found the pic's that I did not find while writing down my first post in this thread, here all three shocks for a comparison, (in the middle the original ones): It is also possible to outclass even Magical shocks for around four times as much money the OP want to pay: Extremly tricky looking and still contemporary and very good working if you use nitrogen as gas are French Fournales shocks, these where used by some world class riders in the beginning eighties, one Bultacos and Italjets (which are the green clones, I had some of them too). Here the model list from Fournals: Production list Fournales Shocks The prices, (around 700

As I know from TWN Club pages the bike are ridden in Italy. The Swiss web page from Patrick Frei (webmaster) of the Twin-Club-Zurich (TWN Club Z

+1, this summ's it up very well I believe (not sure???). These French and Italian builders have this kind of passion while doing things. Their ability to combination technic and design is special, another one:

Yes this is one I believe, I'am not so familiar with the brand, there are different puller models available, here some others that also will do the job without arms popping off, this one is very study and helpful also in other situations: This one would do the job getting off any smaller bushes or bobbings from axles too: