pschrauber

Just stumbeld here, as I had this question to myself just a couple of month ago too here my 0.02

To get the engine deassembled with the headstady mounted doesn't work. To get the engine out underneath is not so easy, because you have to turn the complete engine in its axis across the driving direction. There is only very little space to do so in my personal experience and as you have already figured out, (otherwise you would not ask here) you will need to demount the haedstady too to get at least some space for doing so. It would theoretical work when you bend the steady down to get the engine free, but then the plate of the headystady is cold-formed and will when rebended again and assembled the stady will - when the bike engine is operating again - crack later, so this is a NO GO! If you want to get rid of this problem depending the headstady in the future, build your own headstady whith looks like this posted in topic "headstady" here: Headstady, (By the way the thread was intoduced by yourself.) This construction might not be original to your bike, (199a), but an improvment for sure.

The sentense in complete translation: Beim Drehen im Uhrzeigersinn wir der Z

Befor , this leave some ??? to me, as I did the adjustment only a cuple of month ago, have I recalled wrong, so for record I looked the workshop manual up again: Im - Uhrzeigersinn = clockwise => spät = late Gegen - Uhrzeigersinn = anticlockwise => früh = early Anyway you will find out by using the TDC Gauge:

Rotation of the stator plate: - setting the iginition early you turn anti clockwise, - setting the ignition late you turn clockwise, The stator plate can only be adjusted when the rotor is off. Just turn the stator plate a little bit, then remount the rotor and check the position of the rotor plate and the distance of the points. For setting the points / contacts the rotor has to mounted. This has to be done several times until you will get the right distance between the points and the right amount of mm befor TDC. I start with the points as they are mounted to the stator plate, then check the timiming of the ignition, demount the rotor, then adjust the stator plate, remount the rotor and check again, (normally I have to these adjustments two times, (sometimes three ), until I'am pleased). As already stated by the other members here in another thread you should disconnect the green cable from the loom. The lamp or buzzer has to be conected to black, (the cable that goes to the ignition coil) and earth. Here: Ignition - Timing - Bultaco

I does not only sound weird it runs poor also. Remembering when I was a teen we tried to get the Bul running backwards on purpose, because we thaught it was "so cool". In fact it was difficult to do so, rolling back- wards from a hill for get it started had sometimes success. (After we discoverd that it not only sounded weird, ran very bad and steering + balacing was quite difficult our curiousness was pleased.)

My 0,02 penny worth opinion: The magneto/rotor case side includes the secundary front sprocket and clutch engagement. For cleaning after som muddy session you might clean up the engine components mentioned above there too, it is IMHO easier to use a thicker self made gasket that you can use serveral times as "playing" around with sticky sealing compount stuff. (Gasket sheets are not expensive) I use the gasket several times and had no issue so long, if you need a template for a print out for a recut, (pdf) -> PM

This is a very interesting information to me as it worked without disconnecting the coil wire? Today working a little bit around in the garage for the bul I tried again and it worked. This made me curios why as the explanation sounds very convincingly. looked to my two electrical devices that I use for adjusting the ignition: An electronical multimeter with an automatic range selection and my contemporary Motoplat "Aparato puesta punto sonoro" which I bought in 1981 for adjust the ignition. I found out that there are some electronical devices inside, the unit making the buzzing sound is in the right, then thee are some resistance units a adjusting device and a condenser. in the middle is a logical unit made by TI (Texas Instruments) too. The backside is by the way the operation manual, stating on Spanish just to place the clamps on mass and where the point/ignition are connected. only thing that has to be done extra is to disconnect any battery devices. Then I took a look in the manual of the multitester: The manual reports that this device detects measuring values of approx. < 10Ω for the troughput and permanent signal sound. No I understand! A normal bulb or buzzer and batterie electric circuit connected to the ignition will not work proper because of the remaining coil as this coil consumes too much electricity. When the coil is disconnected this consumer of electricity is off and you can detect the closing or opening of the points as there are enough electricity avalable to light the bulb or operating the buzzer. While the other devices mentioned are measuring the resistance and any difference detected will affect the operation of their buzzers. Anyway thanks for the information, good to know if you are on a journey and don't have them with you.

You might check all the small ducts, and brass tubes. They have to be free and not clogged by gas gum or any other debris, also jets can be covered by gas gum too. A very good carb cleaner, a ultra sonic cleaning can be very helpful Carb with around 15 year old gas gum and residues.

I use Swedish Aspen R (racing) as fuel for the bikes, its a fuel that was invented for forestry machinery like brush cutters and chainsaws. This alkyd based gasoline don't have any ethanol admixtures. I use this gasoline already for many many years for the chainsaw and brush cutter, expecially because you can store it for years. They have already a couple of years ago, - don't remember how long, at least five to six years -, developed alkyd gasoline with a higher octane rate. Aspen+ with 95 octane and AspenR (racing) with 102 octane. The racing gas is a very good or even better equivalent to any high octane pump gas you get at the gas stations. You normally don't even have to rejet the carburator, (which you have to to when using Aspen+ f. e., (normal Aspen has "nly 91 Octan which is OK for a chain saw, ..). This gasoline is also approved for beeing used in indoor events by the FIM. Benefits: - can be stored in years, - don't harm plastic, - is not a poisen as gas, just unhealthy - no smoke, very little residues, no soot deposit, Information about AspenR: Aspen R (racing) To Premix: 1:40 is very rich, even my KTM MX bike uses only 1:50, the trials get around 1:70,(IPONE or Motorex synthetic). (Back in the 80's I used Bultaco oil (made by Optimol) in a 1:100 ratio!, sadly this oil is not destributed anymore).

Disconnection of cables to the pionts, never done, seen or heard? The places where you tried to connect the lamp are OK, like the workshop manual if this might please you. BTW: Before adjusting the timing, be sure that you have the right distance between the points, should be 0,4mm exactly. The points should be fresh, not worn, no residue between them, if you have any doubts use a points file*: *not sure about the right expression in English The Lamp should burn as long as the contacts are closed. Much easier are beeper in use, as you can better focus your eyes to the scale for measuring the TDC. Many multimeter have this feature, (mostly not known).

Don't think so? 1 white, 2 kill button, 3 red from stator, 4 coil ground,earth 5 plug 6 coil 7 green from stator 8 black from stator 9 yellow 10 stator You might check your electrical cables and devices.

I did not know that Kreem is available in the UK? Anyway, if you will still use Kreem there are different products (types) for a gas tank sealant available, also three different products for the preparation, like cleaning, ... I would ALWAYS call or e-mail the manufactor of the sealant which type of product for preparation and painting you need. in your individual case. Number for a call: +49 9721 41455, (they speak english). E-Mail: herbert.ammon@ammon-technik.de

Gummed gas is a task to clean, as it is still liquid you can try carb- or enginecleaner, like Sea Foam in the US and UK? or Fertan F1 (sold in D), follow the technical description. If it got really dry (not sticky when touching), even this may not work anymore. Then the only method that works is to remove it mechanically using a tumbler and some stones for tumbling. How to: - close the petcock opening very well, - fill in the stones inside the tank until the stones reaches the level where the gum ends, - fill with carb cleaner too, - close gas tap very, - mount the complete gastank on the tumbler, very importend in the center of the weight! - best way to attach is using a lot of massive duct tape - turn on the tumbler, it depends on the thickness of the gummed layer and the sort of stones you took how long it will take, you can always control the process by lookig through the gas tap, (tumbler should be off then). (I would guess it will take around 3 hours up to a half day.) You can also use a concrete mixer, (completly cladded inside with foam material, the gastank wrapped with in foam sheets and then tied to the shovels of the concrete mixer, any cavities also filled with foam Material). Bad thing with the concrete mixer is that you can't control the process and every surface of the inner gas tank wil be treatend. Through the abrasive process you have to paint the gas tank inside, using Kreem (in D) or whatever is recommended and able to deliver in the UK. The standard glasfiber works, normally no problem with gas, diesel, ... even alcohol. It depends how the joints are closed when building the cave for the gas, thats one of the problem zones mostly. Also bad repaired places where the epoxy is cracked and the fiber is visible from the inside can be get you in trouble.

A iittle bit of grease is probably OK? In my personal experience the best way I get them mounted is just cleanig the noth where the oil seal has to go in. Some WD40 applied with a rag is all I use. Then I push them in. I use the chamfered steel ring that is inside the old oil seal as an guidance, (I feddeled away the rubber so it's just a mm or so narrower in diameter), and a socket that suits. I believe that to much grase might get the assembly slippery and the chance that you accidently jam the the new oil seal will increase.

Not so good, boiling water will soften the coating of the paint.

To replace the oil seals of the crank is a lot of work: left side: - take of rear brake lever, (might be in the way), - take off rotor and clutch arm cover, - not really necessary but in case you wont get too dirty, take off chain - take off rotor, - take off ignition plate, (mark position befor you do so). - there you are. right side: - drain clutch oil, - take off gear lever, - take of clutch cover, - deassemble clutch, - for better clearance, the internal gear lever to the jack, (I have no experience to the M80 engine) - demount primary chain tensioner, - take off clutch and flywheel and primary chain, - there you are. It's good to have an engine manual for all the spec's and special tools, (clutch springs, gear puller and clutch holder) you need. A lot of work, so I would first look through all the other possibilities befor I personal would start replacing the here. Another place to look at, - even if you have a good spark -, the points and the condensator just in case.

++1 Don't have the American Motorcycelist subscribed but I do like too her artistic skills a lot, they where also showed in the Motor Cycle Trials as advanced riding thechniques, never got that done even with the use of the side stand, (I know, that is botch in my case )

PM is not possible as your PM storage is full, I believe you have to dump some older ones to get space for new ones.

Yep crank seals may be stiffen too and if you can't get the engine running you can't determine if the seals really are worn out / stiffen or not, (see below). I personal would first determine why gas support might be a problem as I understood from your writing. Have you checked the petcock? (If you hade so much gas gum and other debris in the tank and carburator I would check the petcock too). I had the same problem with my Sherpa that also stood for 10 - 15 years in a garage. The gas turned in a gum like substance and under this jelly there was a layer of crystalline honey colored coating that could only be removed mechanically. I would therefor also look at the ducts of the carb very accurate if these small cunductions aren't clogged too. (This happend to the carb of my Sherpa, sadly the carb body was tehrefor a completly loss even different ultrasonic baths couldn't fix that issue). BTW: check out the rubber for cracks leaving air leaks too. When the bike is running again I would then first check the crank seals. let the bike run with open rotor case just ideling, you don't need the clutch, (assume your kill starter works). By spraying brake cleaner in the gap between rotor and engine case there should happen nothing if the seal on this side is OK. If the seal is worn out the engine should rev up, (you can also use start gas for cars for this procedure). This works also fine for detecting airleaks between manifold and carb.

May be you haven't posted any photos yet his would help a lot especially me as I sometimes have some difficulties understanding commen British speech. There are three possibilities where oil from the cluth can get mixed up with the oil from gearbox: As I understand you haven't mounted a seal or the old seal to the jack cover. This can be a problem because the primary chain will threw a lot of oil around expecially when changing direction on a sprocket. I would just to be sure you have done it and mount a new one, a standard engine seal set covers all seals and O-rings for the engine. Probably the shaft of the jack- mechanism might be weard out too, then oil can also go easier through this place. This is very uncommen in my experience so far. You have more problems with the small jack that can break the "guidances" then with wear at the shaft as shown here: left jack- mechanism for a 199a OK, right jack mechanism 199b, broken, (there they are these little differences between the models). This would still not explain the oil leaking on the secondary front sprocket. I believe You have still a problem there. The coloring of the garbox oil you have detected came probably from the unthight oil seal you have fixed now. If there is only little loss and you don't observe an increase I would live with this issue. To determine how much oil you have to refill the easy way using a small rod with marks in mm will not work proper as the thread hole of the vent is direcly placed above the primary chain. You will have to go through the circuitous method: - fill up the right amount of cluth oil, - then place the bike on a bike stand where the bike stands horizontal - and drain the oil again. - Messure up how many oil comes out, might be a little less now as the bike stands perfect horizontal. - Refill the drained oil again. Now go riding around for one hour. When you returned: - place the bike on the bike stand at the same place in the garage where you did the oil draining and refilling procedure befor. - Now wait until the engine has cooled down if not, - and then drain the oil again and - messure up how many comes out now. The difference is what you loose per hour riding. Would be interesting to know how much.

Mmmh ... (color facing up or in, there is no color = Farbe in German applicated?) for a better explanation here a pic how to mount the washer you might mentioned: If O-Ring of the gear shaft is OK and you have placed a new seal to the jack- mechanism cover then it should be all OK.

??? as you did replace the oil seal on the clutch side as I understood. So this axis of different shafts should be OK If you haven't made a mistake replacing the oil seal of the clutch shaft there should not get out any oil at #01. How thight is the shaft of the gear lever, #02? this shaft goes through the gear-box and the clutch? Last not least how thight is the shaft of the gear actuator or the cover #03?

The side of the kickstart is for me not a problem, sometimes I need some time getting used to the "other" side when switch the bike. For me it's all about: - how it's mount, (height), - how good the kickstart mechanism works, (much wear had the aluminium kicker that was used for the Italjet Piuma f.e., or the lever of the TY 175 that is possible to break by accident). Then the internal ratch mechanism where you sometimes find "soft" solutions where "dedentition" is not uncommen, (f. e. Fantic 1994 K-Roo, not mine shown here):