pschrauber

++1 Don't have the American Motorcycelist subscribed but I do like too her artistic skills a lot, they where also showed in the Motor Cycle Trials as advanced riding thechniques, never got that done even with the use of the side stand, (I know, that is botch in my case )

PM is not possible as your PM storage is full, I believe you have to dump some older ones to get space for new ones.

Yep crank seals may be stiffen too and if you can't get the engine running you can't determine if the seals really are worn out / stiffen or not, (see below). I personal would first determine why gas support might be a problem as I understood from your writing. Have you checked the petcock? (If you hade so much gas gum and other debris in the tank and carburator I would check the petcock too). I had the same problem with my Sherpa that also stood for 10 - 15 years in a garage. The gas turned in a gum like substance and under this jelly there was a layer of crystalline honey colored coating that could only be removed mechanically. I would therefor also look at the ducts of the carb very accurate if these small cunductions aren't clogged too. (This happend to the carb of my Sherpa, sadly the carb body was tehrefor a completly loss even different ultrasonic baths couldn't fix that issue). BTW: check out the rubber for cracks leaving air leaks too. When the bike is running again I would then first check the crank seals. let the bike run with open rotor case just ideling, you don't need the clutch, (assume your kill starter works). By spraying brake cleaner in the gap between rotor and engine case there should happen nothing if the seal on this side is OK. If the seal is worn out the engine should rev up, (you can also use start gas for cars for this procedure). This works also fine for detecting airleaks between manifold and carb.

May be you haven't posted any photos yet his would help a lot especially me as I sometimes have some difficulties understanding commen British speech. There are three possibilities where oil from the cluth can get mixed up with the oil from gearbox: As I understand you haven't mounted a seal or the old seal to the jack cover. This can be a problem because the primary chain will threw a lot of oil around expecially when changing direction on a sprocket. I would just to be sure you have done it and mount a new one, a standard engine seal set covers all seals and O-rings for the engine. Probably the shaft of the jack- mechanism might be weard out too, then oil can also go easier through this place. This is very uncommen in my experience so far. You have more problems with the small jack that can break the "guidances" then with wear at the shaft as shown here: left jack- mechanism for a 199a OK, right jack mechanism 199b, broken, (there they are these little differences between the models). This would still not explain the oil leaking on the secondary front sprocket. I believe You have still a problem there. The coloring of the garbox oil you have detected came probably from the unthight oil seal you have fixed now. If there is only little loss and you don't observe an increase I would live with this issue. To determine how much oil you have to refill the easy way using a small rod with marks in mm will not work proper as the thread hole of the vent is direcly placed above the primary chain. You will have to go through the circuitous method: - fill up the right amount of cluth oil, - then place the bike on a bike stand where the bike stands horizontal - and drain the oil again. - Messure up how many oil comes out, might be a little less now as the bike stands perfect horizontal. - Refill the drained oil again. Now go riding around for one hour. When you returned: - place the bike on the bike stand at the same place in the garage where you did the oil draining and refilling procedure befor. - Now wait until the engine has cooled down if not, - and then drain the oil again and - messure up how many comes out now. The difference is what you loose per hour riding. Would be interesting to know how much.

Mmmh ... (color facing up or in, there is no color = Farbe in German applicated?) for a better explanation here a pic how to mount the washer you might mentioned: If O-Ring of the gear shaft is OK and you have placed a new seal to the jack- mechanism cover then it should be all OK.

??? as you did replace the oil seal on the clutch side as I understood. So this axis of different shafts should be OK If you haven't made a mistake replacing the oil seal of the clutch shaft there should not get out any oil at #01. How thight is the shaft of the gear lever, #02? this shaft goes through the gear-box and the clutch? Last not least how thight is the shaft of the gear actuator or the cover #03?

The side of the kickstart is for me not a problem, sometimes I need some time getting used to the "other" side when switch the bike. For me it's all about: - how it's mount, (height), - how good the kickstart mechanism works, (much wear had the aluminium kicker that was used for the Italjet Piuma f.e., or the lever of the TY 175 that is possible to break by accident). Then the internal ratch mechanism where you sometimes find "soft" solutions where "dedentition" is not uncommen, (f. e. Fantic 1994 K-Roo, not mine shown here):

300 ml is perfect

Not sure, you can make a downgrade to the old plugs the engine could use like: - L

Use a good! chisel and carefully drive the chisel in the gap, takes some time and has to be done in small steps all around, this worked for me not leaving any visible marks. When you have a 2mm gap use a small crowbar for the remaining.

It's ForumTY, very good, expecially dedicated to the TY, Majesty, Whitehawk and Rayer models. Link: ForumTY You might ask them too.

Yep have done so, benefit is much less friction to the rocker arm so the complete cluth action is very much improved. Highly recommanded. (With an oil bearing you can also get the construction better protected against water / debris too. I still use a felt washer soaked in oil to fill the gap.) Left modded clutch actuator, Right standard:

If you put on some grease for rubber on the inside of the dust cover they will get mounted very easy and you can get them off with ease later, (in a couple of years or so), too. Without they can stick very well and it can be difficult to get them demounted. Don't use normal grease this can in the long run harm the rubber or transform to a "glue" so they stick better). Grease nipples for the rocker bushing will only work if you have grooves in the bushing that will give the grease the possibility getting around. The Italjet Piumas had brass bushings too and had grease nipples and these grooves inside, looking like a horizontal eight that is wrapped so both ends are connected together. If you just drill a hole an mount a grease nipple the grease will rather come out to the sides (shorter distance) the reach the opposite side of the bushing. (If the rocker would rotate 360

The newer standard Setor Shocks will do their work, they are rebuildable too. Costs are 80

Not only to get up the numbers of replys, a really very nice work, my next project is a TY too, still working here and there whenever there is some sparetime on the other bike but then this one: will get a rebuild too. You changed the rear rim too as I see. Did you do any modifications to the engine?

It's nice, in it's overall layout it shares a lot or maybe too much with the other competitors but also having some own technical details. It's not something redical new in frame and engine development like the OSSA. It does not have a real own identity from distance. - the protection of the front sprocket is poor. + detachable footrest very nice. 0 front looks familiar. 0 frame a little bit beta with more angularly touch. ? rear shock, this works already proven by BMW, but the open clamping area is a littly bit scary in my personal view (--). ? rear axle adjustment from MX, why not, reminds me to my KTM (from 1989! pretty much the same) ? very very low mid section In our world where personality and outward appearances is sadly overrated towards personal qualities not a hitter. But I'am looking forward to the first ride tests just to revise my given statements completly.

Make your own little washer, around 2 - 2,5mm thick out of aluminium and then the problem is solved. Bore should be 25,5mm, Diameter: 40mm.

The brass sleaves are Ok in my personal view if they are in good shape, but they need some maintace. a good grease filling which you will have to renew regulary. If your sleaves have a groove at the outer side then you have to mount an additional o-ring at the outer side. mounted on both outer sides and the small oil seals on the inner side. The size of the o-ring is: bore: 24mm, diameter: 2mm The size of the oil seal is: 24x32x4mm (type 199A) here: simply bearings (seals for 199b, (inner oil seal is smaller here):

Aahh .. Yokes are triple clamps, this explaines much for me. Yes these clamps can have a big effect to the steering as on trials bikes the distance between lower fork clamp (yoke) and upper fork clamp (yoke) are mostly differnt to the steering head axis. The upper clamp is a little bit further away to the center of the steering had then the lower one. This will result in a steeper fork angle and improve the understeer. This is a little bit visible in the parts book of the Montesa 200. To the forks itself, I had two Italjet Piuma's back in the eighties, the first bike had Betor forks which worked very well, (coming from Bultaco). The second bike came with Marzocchi's mounted, there where no big differences as I remember only that it took much longer until they where breaked in, (The fork had a some stop - loss or breakaway torque when new).

Thank you for the explanation of the tiller effect the sailboat comparison was already very easy to catch, (the half of my familiy are going to sea, I work on land but doing sailing already as a small kid). To the position of the handlebar to the axis of the headtube or the fork axis, this can be in my personal experience much better changed by the position of the handlebar. Maybe I'am not sensetiv enough to feel a big difference, if I turn to the right I move the lever in the right direction and it works very well . The main point in my view is to have as less overrun (Nachlauf in German or may be after run in English?). My doubs I have when the frontaxle is positioned in axis of the fork, that this position eliminates one of the big evolution steps in trials or bikes technical improvements: the shiftet position of the front axle. This reduce the overrun or afterrun (Nachlauf) and as less "Nachlauf" you have as handier is steering overal which is essential in trials IMHO. I don't know if I have used the right word, here a pic: Pic 3 variation of n due to the position of the front axle, Pic 4 variation of n due to the angleof the axsis of the headtube or fork. How n is changing due to the effect of a compressed fork: Standard diamentions of a gasser: I believe that maybe the steering of oldfanatic's Bulto might feel so bad because the fork doesn't respond so well anymore while turning. The terrain is rarly flat while turning and every small stone or pit that is not smoothed out by the forks suspension makes steering uncomfortable. There might be some different reasons for bad fork action: The fork just sits a little bit upthight in the clamps, The fork stanchions might be just a little bit bent, (a differenc of 2 - 3mm is not detectable by normal view, only if you deassamble the stanchions, but can worsen fork action). The lower forktubes might be weard out, sadly the stanchions are guided in the alloy lower forktubes without replaceable bushings, with the time, these lower fork tubes wear out and the cylinder hole inside them begin to get an slightly oval shape. And probably stiffend oil seals. Maybe just a really good and complete fork overhaul will fix the problem, nothing is build to last and work perfect up to the end of the world.

I don't really know what tiller effect* means, does it mean that the fork action is not smooth and more stuckering expecially in turns with additional fork action downwards or upwards or while breaking riding down a hill? And once again I must admit that my english ... is somehow limited. (BTW: tiller effect on www.dict.cc puts out the German word Ackerfr

The "mid-section" of the exhaust, mmh ... as I have seen from the inside there is just a hole tube with insulation inside the "mid-section", the diameter is a little bit smaller as the manifold, so it's just an absorber, reducing the noise and the speed of the exhaust gas flow, like a diffusor for a classical 2-stroke exhaust. The gas fumes will then go further in the "rear section" of the exhaust system where there is again a hole tube with insulation slowing down the gas speed. Then starting whith the boardening of the club-foot design of the rear exhaust comes a plate or "plate-wall" closing the opening but with a small opening where the exhaust fumes have to go through, while also beeing reflected in the opposite direction. The reflected gas will recharge the pistonchamber with unburned gas-air mixture from the exhaust side which have in the meantime got out the outlet port due to the flushing loss. Then follows some chambers that are connected again by small openings or tubes leading the exhaust gases through the muffler. This system of tubes and chambers works as an Helmholts resistor in physical terms. The resistor is again for slowing down the exhaust gas speed and noise. If you will do any change to the mid section you have to mdify the rear section of exhaust too, both parts depend on each other. There are some very good articles that where published in the German Trialsport magazine in the begining 80's about these exhaust systems, how they work and how to set them up if you are interested PM, (warning contains a lot of formulars). I personal have got through them too, but decided the effort would not be worth my riding skills. You can minimze the Helmholtz resistor system a little bit at the end section (only the outer side!) which will result in a better air flow (= more engine live/response) but you have to compensate it with an adiitional absorber to get the noise as low as before. To the Reg May modifications to the swing arm you can look up here: works Bultaco Here a cut through the rear part of the silencer: The lower picture shows the outer side where changes can result to a positiv effect if you know what you are doing, (just calculating might not result in a positiv effect you need experience too.) Maybe some other user might post more useful information, anyway this is an very interesting topic!

Fitted with Bing a 40 pilot jet is standard for model 199-A, should improve the response if you live and ride in normal altitude. The 3/4 of a turn open is the standard position of the air screw a good position to sttart for further fine adjusting. For getting an clue where there might be a jetting issue or some adjustment needed here is a drawing that shows wich component is responsible for the gas-air mixture at different throttle positions. You can mark them to your throttle grip for fine adjusting of the carb, like shown here. Take a light sloping road, around 600m at just ride up with constant throttle position, if the engine is running like a four stroke than he runs too fat/rich, on the other hand if the engine is pinging, it's to lean, (If your hear the motor pinging abort further riding / change throttle position, (running the engine too lean is unhealthy for the engine). Hope this was useful

Powder coating a gas tank is beyond the good manners I guess. The tank of a bike is well let's call it the face of a nice girl. Hopefully that statement and the one to come will not get me in any trouble).( Only very little make-up can improve the appearance but putty is the opposite.

Very cool, :thumbup: thank you very very much for this very british footage. Expecially the naming and the short driving scene with the German rider Helmut Stanik is in my personal view a highlight for me. In my very active day's in the 80's Helmut was my local hero. I have learned some good tricky riding stuff from him and remembering very well when we where wrenching on my bike at his shop in Bramsche. Back then Helmut had a trials bike store too, my last two bikes I bought from him. He's a really nice guy and was a very good rider too.