Firstly, you do realise that both myself and the person who wants the bearings are in the UK don't you, so how would I be aware of some obscure German make of bearing. You will also note that their bearing size is measured in fractions, not whole numbers so how would I know to search for that, even if I was searching German companies. As for false information I never said they didn't exist, but that they were not available in the UK from local suppliers. If you look back through the Bultaco forum you will find others have said the same as they have been unable to find them either. I also suggested the person who wants them search for himself before using Pyramid if he wanted a known brand
Before you respond in such a sarcastic manner (limited view of the world) and then accuse me of posting false information why don't you google "bearing 25x45x11" and see what you get in the search results for the UK. Then have a look on the websites of FAG, SKF etc and see if they list a bearing in that size. Then contact a few UK bearing suppliers and ask them if they can supply that size bearing. Let us know how you get on and the name of any suppliers you find
I could ask why you didn't mention your supplier yesterday when you replied if you want to be helpful...
With respect to bearing stress loads etc I'm not an engineer so have no idea of what you're talking about and don't care. I replied to you agreeing that it is not a good idea to use cheap bearings in an engine. However, with my limited view of the world, I doubt a steering bearing is going to fail completely resulting in the forks falling off and serious injury to myself, so I was prepared to use a non-name brand. I have used Pyramid bearings in my steering for about 15 years and have never had a failure, they rarely go out of adjustment and I have only had to replace one set on a well used bike in all that time, and that was most likely due to water ingress from repeated pressure washing
You -to whatever reason- brought up false arguments and blamed my previous hints about this thread theme.
So I responded and prooved my hint and that consequently binned yours. Now you are angry and spinning even more a wheel.
I have nothing to add to the technical theme. I am pleased with that conversation anyway as it improves my English conversation skills and I like to learn something everyday
None of the main manufacturers supply this size bearing, it's not a standard size. I agree about only using quality bearings in the engine and even wheels but the steering is under little stress and the no name steering bearings have lasted me more than 10 years in some of my bikes with some hard use
Of course you get them, probably not in your limited view of the world I don't know why you are posting this false information and believe me I don't want to know either.
First we call bearings that are custom made "Zeichnungslager" and in Germany and I think in most other countries too it is possible to get them (You might google them) even just one.
And too in the opposite to what you stated in your post, as lower the movement of a bearing as more important it is that the bead of the bearing is of very hard material, as if the balls are only moving a little the force is not distributed evenly and thus put even more stress the bead as at a really rotating bearing. So here again you are sadly a bit too limited in your thinking or as we say "Hochmut kommt vor dem Fall", (haughtiness comes before the event).
The above company are very helpful but why not buy from Inmotion Bultaco UK when they have them in stock?
As mentioned it is not only the size that matters too the quality. And I have got no name products from different classic motorcycle parts suppliers and stores and learned my lesson, ask about the ressource and specific product before you buy if it is not clearly answered written uo in advance or before you buy.
Most bearing sellers do mention beside tyoe and measurements too the quality and brand.
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Edited by pschrauber Spelling and Sentence issues fixed
I would try your local or special onlie bearing dealer, because, you often get no name bearings from our parts supplieres and I had issues with no name bearings, especially with wheel bearings and engine bearings, therefore I now only buy them from motorcycle part dealers if they can confirm my personal needs in terms of quality and brand.
I personal prefer FAG (German) bearings, then SKF (from Sweden), then NSK (from Japan), last not least INA also from Germany.
Then the best thing is to use paint stripper, check it out on a spot not too much visible exposed, that would work quite well together with a hard wood or plastic spatula.
If then there is still some residue left you might a sharp and very new cutter plade and use it as a razor to shave off small scratches and so one.
After that treatment a polish with plastic surface polish will give the former gloss back.
See here for an outcome with plastic polish done to my bike, you might too see that I had an issue with the side cover of the exhaust which was burned so I had to repair that plastic plastic strips which I melted to the spots where teh plastic was crippled then shaved all in the original dimensions but there is still a bit discoloration visible.
You have a good source for silent blocks? Buying 100´s of them to get 2 is not very attractive.
I only buy as many as I need buying 100 why that?
Here is an aniline shop that does sell too to private people in low numbers, you can get just one,
As mentioned at the web page not everything is on their onlinelist you have to ask for rare dimensions.
I have also made my rubber parts and silent block using this set set sold by Corrosionschutz Depot, with good effect,
My set up, which I have at hand for making new rubber parts, you burn out the old rubber and reuse the tubes:
I have been using needle bearings very much but discovered silentbloc to be much better in all occasions, as theses are water proof, gives extra cushing to the drivetrain and do have even a
tiny bit of extra damping to the rear suspension.
And to older Bultaco bikes these silentbloc came with them too, like the model 187 or 221 which I had.
I "re-" learnd all about it with my SWM and too the Panda which have also silentbloc's mounted, so to newer builds I use them now with good effect. All I do is to put some never seize between the silentbloc bushing and the swing arm shaft.
If in need I will even to my 199b replace it with silent bloc "bearing" so convenient.
The frame color should be RAL 3020,. To the fork the very early SWM had 34mm stanchions not 35mm.
You might measure the triple clamps / yokes which diameter they supply.
The sign is the Marzocchi logo so it is a Marzocchi triple clamp or yoke and such a fork you need too if you want to stay original.
The Betor fork do fit with the Marzocchi fork yoke / triple clamp too, if both are made for 35mm on diameter.
I have switched to a Betor fork with Marzocchi triple xlamp aka yokes which lowers the front a bit and deliver a bit more overrun which is good for turning in my personal opinion.
What Stevem75 says about capacitors in CDI ignitions is right but I do not think the motoplat is a CDI type. I think it is electronically (transistor) switched, but in other respects the same as a conventional points switched system.
Try PVL ignitions or Karting ignition suppliers.
Yes that id right, Motoplat uses transistors and these do fail, sorry for my late reply but I wanted to make that sure as I have come to likewise problems to other ignitions.
I had 4 Italjets the second one was a Piuma and had Betors front and rear whitch worked fairly well.
My Scott had Marzocchis but I gave them literary away because they where not any good, I bought White Power instead
The next and last Italjet a Piuma MK Il had too Marzocchis front and rear and I wasn't pleased either with the rear shocks and tried to get them adjusted but had been told it was not possible even back then, so switched to something else.
Australia might have got something different or there are substitutes possible.
Not possible, get French Fournals that were mounted to Philippe Berlatiers works Piuma if you want a period look, they still sell them but be aware about the price!
Schrader valves are not stock, may be you have a different set of fork caps mounted, maybe a different fork?
A photo of the air valves and the fork assembly as a hole would be nice to determine what is mounted to the bike.
With these high altitude I recommend a SmartCarb I have ridden the SWM in altitude from Zero up to 3200m (appr. 10,700 feet) above sea level and the stanard jetting is "only" good for the first 1500m, above that the engine runs rich above 2000m very rich and you have to change jets or a blue smoke cloud will follow together with very lame responsibility. The Dell'Orto PHBH if jetted right and using the right needle and slide! works perfect with rotary valve engine but only in limited hights, i don't think an OKO VM or Keihin would work better beside flat slide versions, here a Dell'Orto VHST is in 26mm also available and you can use the same jets!
There is a clutch fix with bigger balls 13mm instead of 7mm and a longer internal clutch lever, I think Dagaracing in Italy is still selling them.
Mmmh having some "simple" points ignitions I highly recommend that at first you set the distance gap between the points at 0,4mm!
My way to set the timing to my point ignition bikes:
I use a Multimeter or a Motoplat beep tool and install an OT gauge, then sat the gauge to zero and mount the beeper, then measure the
ignition according to the beep is according and note the measured distance before OT.
Now I take the rotor off without changing the position or in case the position has changed I readjust the crank to the measurement I made
and noted before and mark the position of the plate with a pencil, (I' am marking now the wrong or off position!)
Now I place a degree scale to the crank shaft and mount a pointer and turn the crank until I have the right timing, now I have the degree
in which direction I have to move the ignition plate, loosen it and move it the specified degree, fasten it again and remount the rotor and
check the ignition timing again.
This way you will get the most accurate timing a Bultaco sadly need, if timing is too much off the engine likes to run backwards or has a silly
behavior in my experience, that can even accor if the gap of the points are not correct set up.
Sounds good a photo would be nice, with the older clutch cover you need a clutch assembly with an mount to the case with an o-ring fitted. You get the cable from venhill or Mr. SWM.
The Bing is good, the Dell'Orto better but 28mm is a bit much, my Bultaco 199b got very powerfull with that size of carb with a 26mm PHBH the bike got much nicer and throttle friendlier.
Both sides of the Dell'Orto are smaller in diamter then the bulky Bing so you have to make adapters (tubes rings) to mount the Dell'Orto.
If you are very good in machining you might tune the Bing, fitting a brass slide with a flat underside and a rounded cut away of 60° also a rounded edge in the middle in visor line of the needle, then also replace the idle jet, polish the edges and chamfer the intake side in a more aerodynamic matter this will transform the carb to a better the Dell'Orto unit.
I think if you are interested especially especially in Bultaco you shoukd look up these books in general new or used:
History de la Sherpa The Story,
Francois Stauffacher ISBN: 84-607-3101-4
Bultaco
Eine Leidenschaft für den Motorsport
Francois Herreros
ISBN German: 84-920080-0
ISBN Spanish: 84-920080-3-2
The German print is the newest version and includes extra material, charts and photos that where provided by Orlando Calonder, Bruno Wiest and Francois Herreros himself by translating and redesigning the book in German.
Anyway the Bultacos are great bikes, goid ressources are too old magazines from that era.
The clutch plates might be stick together I woukd check the clutch and here if the push rod is installed adjusted right.
Then a too thick gear oil which let the clutch slip. I only use HTX 740 now which gives best clutch action in my opinion. You might change to Elf HTX or ATF too.
The third possibility is a not right working "Mitnehmer" (the ratchet thing is not actuated proberly which can be a too soft spring, too little tension on the spring or a worn ratchet.
These things I would like to go through / determine in your situation.
Second grove counted from the top or second lowest / leanest adjusting of the needle is standard or normally a good start if you are on or near sea level.
Then do some rides a half km or so at a bit up hill with 3/4 throttle if the engine doesn't sound lean, return slow or with clutch or without gear downhill.
After that control the new or cleaned plug for coloration, brown is OK black or wet is to rich and whitish is to lean.
Bultaco 159 steering bearing
in Bultaco
Posted
You -to whatever reason- brought up false arguments and blamed my previous hints about this thread theme.
So I responded and prooved my hint and that consequently binned yours. Now you are angry and spinning even more a wheel.
I have nothing to add to the technical theme. I am pleased with that conversation anyway as it improves my English conversation skills and I like to learn something everyday