pschrauber

Yep they have 6 speed engins. There is one other thing that makes me wonder, the bike in E-Bay is fitted with "normal" tireholder in the rims. The original 198b and 199b had no standard tire holder which you can look up on any factory photo of the bike. Instead they had tiny plate screws 6 pieces for one rim that where mounted at the outer sides of the rim for holding the tire. Sadly this is not "street legal" at least in Germany, maybe this outfit was only deliverd to the Bultaco homecountry and at least Italy?

Yep! In my personal experience with bash plates that are an integral part of the frame this is the way to do. If You ever do a complete rebuild and want to remount the engine to the frame (where the bash plate is a bearing part of the frame), make sure you have mounted the bash plate first, (just mounted, the bolts are mounted but not thigtened). Thgis makes the assambly much easier. One thing to note as your bike (model 199a) have the "weak/thingy" headsteady, please make sure that the headstady is mounted without any stress/force! The headstady has to fit on spot and the bolt to the frame has to be thigtened at last, (which may result in unthigtening the cylinder head too if the hole of the headstady will not match to the bolt hole for the frame!) Doing so you will avoid any overstress to the headstadyplate.

Very nice paint work! Just my 0,02

Sen todotrial - Horacio San Mart

I would personal not powder coat the gas tank. The powder coating will prbably last longer, but it's not easy to do any repairs. If you want to recoat the tank, you need to get the tank blasted. I would do (and did) a paint job, then put the decals on and thereafter a coat with clear paint on PU-Base (polyurethane), this will protect the decals and give the color/surface a visual depth too. If the surface got scratched and you accidential got a dent, it's easy to get the paint off with paint stripper, then bagging out the dent and again a new paint coat. There are spray cans in RAL 5015 available.

You don't need any sealant. I would take and took the thick standard metal cladded packing that comes between cylinder and manifold, This works together with proper tightened screws, (4), works fine for your 199a. Between the the front and the rear part of the exhaust you have to install O-rings, the rest is done by the spring.

COOL I already thaught this theme will getting

Here is a vid about the sitting down method for starting works for both kicker sides! How to start a trialsbike

I have my kicker around 10:30 which works fine for starting and riding too. You might hit the footpeg with your kicker that is a goemetrical fact. To mount the kicker at noon is a little bit too far back and starting might get not so easy. (For starting I turm the handlebar to the right, then search befor OT place the left feet, knee bent and sit down, (best way to start IMHO), got her running art least at second kick). The "quite" kick must be when the piston is getting from downwards to upwards I believe, otherwise it must be a four stroke you have ???

A little bit play back and forth is OK and should be. Any play to the side would be bad, when you have deassambled the oil seal you can better detect if the bearing runs "rough" or if there is any "play" to the sides which I do not belive. The bearing runs in gearbox oil there is rarly an issue there if the oil was changed reagulary.

Oh this sounds interesting so you have three Bultacos, that is nearly a flock. Any pic's to show up?

If you want to split the cases, get a workshop manual, there it's written up how to do. But as already stated it should only be done if you really need it. It has a reason why Bultaco has placed all the bearings to the gearbox and the crankshaft seals on the outside of the case. They just fail more often then the inner parts. Already when not heating up the cases the right way when splitting or remounting the cases can get you in trouble. Remember: You said beside the issues the engine is running great in your former postings, so why change a running system?

I personal would not split the engine cases if not really needed, this takes much time and effort and the possibility to do it the wrong way if you are not used to it is very high. Here a drawing and some the photos where the oil seal is located: The red piece is the oil-seal, #43, the orange part is the o-ring, #18, the green piece is the distance bush, #19: How it looks with unmounted clutch and primary chain and flywheel: A close up of the bearing and the distance bush, the o-ring is sadly not seen the photo is a little bit fuzzy:

Yes it*s possible, you find the seal under the clutch basket, there is a distance bush then an o-ring thereafter the oil seal. You need an oil- seal puller to get it out. Pic's will follow.

I have no real clue, may be you mounted the distance bush # 17 wrong? Here is the assembly order to the 199 model: # 46 spring clip # 45 oil seal 14x20x3 # 40 ball bearing # 17 o-ring # 21 distance bush # 43 oil seal 30x40x7 # 29 countershaft sprocket # 23 sleeve gear fixing washer # 22 sleeve gear fix

Here a pic from the manual, as you see they did not use very special or thick material either. I dom't had any hole in the nut to safty or lock wire the flywheel weight. Here a pic when I took the clutch cover away. When I got the bike the seller stated he never wrenched on the bike, because he has two left hands when it comes to technical maintance. (which must have been true, every bolt and nut was original and untouched.). The original wiring of the clutch wasn't very aesthetic or in any systematical order. I wrapped the end of the wires after drilling a little bit around the second wire just to get sure it will not move due to centrifugal force. The wire just holds the nut in place nothing more, if it is made out of stainless steal, St 1.4571 of V4A, the strengh should be around 600N/mm

As you have already found out any garden wire stuff has not the right strength and flexibility you will need. I take safty wire from KTM but I think every stainless steel safty wire will work. To the thickness of the wire and the clutch: I used one wire and leaded it through the holes of the nuts just two times to be safty the nuts will not turn around. This worked very well:

Your kick-start return spring issue got curios in my view, please can you post a pic of your recent setup?

That your spring does not have the right tension to move the kick start foreward sounds strange. It is nearly impossilbe to mount the spring the wrong way. When You have mounted the front end pin of the spring in the hole of the kick-start shaft the other end of the spring should unmounted point at 5'o or 6'o clock. When mounting the rear end you tense the spring. May be the ends of the spring had not the right angle between them, may be the tension of the spring isn't good enough. BTW. Due to the bending getting the spring inside the hole it is recommended not to use the spring after remounting again. (to cold deform spring steel isn't a really good for the material property).

Often the front sprocket seal is leaking because the tiny ventilation hole for the gear box is clogged with debris. Befor you do another replacement, please look after if the tiny hole in your engine located in the center of the red circle in picture is free. If not the warm gearbox oil and the reminding air inside produce a over pressure. Normally the standard oil seals works fine.

The long spacer goes between rear hub and speedo drive, the smaller one between speedo drive and swing arm/rocker: Some speedo drives have the long spacer already attached, like here: all parts shown here goes to the speedo drive: - first the thin washer in the middle top, - then the rotatable arm in the right, - then the cover cap. The washer or spacer between speedo drive and swingarm is not shown in the pic, this spacer is about 3mm thick.

If the chain shows excessiv wear then replace it. You can replace the crank shaft seal underneath the flywheel weight if the seal is already some years old. To replace the chain you have to deassanble the flywheel and the clutch together with the chain at once. The chain is endless there is no chain link mounted

You will need some special tools to get the clutch and even the flywheelweight deassambled. A clutch basket holder, then a puller for the flywheel weight. As already mentioned here (post #9): Posting #9 to your ping-ping question Befor deassambling completly and also afterwards you have mounted the chain and the clutch flywheel assembly again, you will check the assambly by turning the flywheel by hand just to determine the flywheel weight turns centered, the chain is running aligned with the clutch sprocket, ... I would also check the tensioner for wear, the plastic wheel might have deep track marks. It is recommend to replace the wheel and the spring of tensioner after a rebuild.

The spokes don't have any direct contact with the rims. Between rim and spoke you have the nipples. These should original are made out of alloy. If you only order new spokes, be sure the threads between the spokes and the old nipples fit. Very important: get spokes with rolled threads not cutted onces. If the thread are cutted or milled the spoke will loose much of the strength.