pschrauber

Paint stripper works also very nice and keep the stamped logos at the alloy fork sliders. If you still want blasting the fork sliders: To protect the threads where you bleed the forks, here you can take old bolts that you afterwards can unscrew. To the oil seals you can leave the old oil seals inside for protecting. The bore for the front axle I would protect wich some flat wachers and a bolt + nut. For the paint job there was already information given by the former posters. New oil seals is a good idea, as already stated put them in after the paint job.

To the "ping-ping noise" the frequency of the pings are linked to the rpm? While assembling my the engine I replaced the flywheel weight on the clutch side and mounted a lighter one. The lighter flywheel was NOS. The sprocket had some edges so the primary chain did not fit well first. After grinding the adgesaway the chain runs free and without any snappy noise while turning from hand. Did you probably replaced your flywheel weight too? I would also take the clutch cover off and take a deep second look. Would also turn the the engine by nad without plug to see if there is no issue with the primary drive, very curios this "ping-ping noise"???

Even if the diameter of the nut thread matches to the thread of the axle. The thread pitch or lead has to match too. And it is not easy to determine the thread of a nut without a thread gauge. May be Bondy should call them (Bultaco UK) up and tell them his problem, may be he got the wrong nut and he can exchange the nut against one that fit.

There might be resources in the UK too, I get my bolts and nuts from them: bolts, nuts, ... Here are the nut spec's where you can compare to your needs. spec's Try this ressource in the UK ???: nuts shop They look at least like castle nuts, but - no information of the strength of the used steel, (you get nuts in strength from 4.6, 5.6, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9, you need at least 8.8) - no good information about the threads, (should be a fine thread! (Feingewinde Typ M)).

Looks nice and sorted, good luck for the further rebuild!

inventory list protection springs I would also recommend careful routing, but if your really want a spring for your clutch cable, I would take push springs made out of stainless steel, they look like the one the Yamaha bikes have. Here you are: spring manufactor push springs Here a list of their push springs they have stock, maybe the right diamension is stock available, you can order just one spring!: inventory list push springs Then they produce also special springs for cable protection: spring manufactor cable protection springs Here there list of stock protection springs, again you can order only one spring: spring manufactor push springs If there is not the spring with the dimension you want to have, they can also fabricate (only) one spring to your special needs, (BTW: they are a very good ressource for springs).

I saw this thread now. To the forks of the 125 and 175cc TY: I still have my first bigger trialsbike a TY 125 from 1979. The only major repair I ha to do was to replace bent stanchions after a front flip crash, (back then spare parts where still available,it shouuld have been around 1985/86 I believe. I now will give the bike it's first service after 32 years + the bike will get a forks pair of a mono TY 250. The frontend will be heavier, the weehlbase will also be sligtly longer, then I need a new front rear axle, some bushings the triple clamps of the mono too with some conversions to fit them to the older TY. But all this will be cheaper as a straightenin of bent stanchions and then a rechroming. (had my lessons here while restoring the Bultaco). So if you can gett the bigger forks of the 250 or the mono 250 with truples, replace them IMHO. Much better steering feel, much more durable and better action (mono) too, The weightgain is nearly not remarkable the better steering is vey well.

Don't check them too often, there is little wear on a "trials thumper" like the Bultaco. Once you did a rebuild and just ride it on weekends they will work for years if you don't have any breakdows caused by other reasons. To check the pistons rings there are two things to check: First the wear or toleance of the notches where the rings are mounted to the pistom. The gap between the noth of the piston and the bar of the ring should be a clearence of - around 0,05mm this is good / normal - around 0,10mm there is some wear still useable a limited time - around 0,15mm is the limit, then you have to replace. Then you can check the clearance of the joint of the rings. To check this you have to put them inside the cylinder, the ring has to sit 40mm below the upper cylinder edge, the ring has to sit absolutly parallel to the surface of the cylinder. Now you can measure the gap between the joints, the clearance of - around 0,20mm is OK/normal, - around 0,30mm there is some wear but sitll useable a limited time, - around 0,35mm or more then the ring has weared out and you have to replace. If only one of them shows exessive wear you should replace both rings. BTW: Be very carefully when deassamble and assembling the rings.

I have a colored wiring diagram I made myself to get the electric sorted, sadly it is in German, but I beleive it is easy enough to understand as the wires are drawn in color, here a scan of the drawing: # 8 is the resistor # 9 is the rear brake switch #10 is the rear light, Masse = earth/frame R

Hi Bondy, when you have got the pin of the spring fitted inside the hole of the kick starter shaft you turn the shaft completly to the left and then hook up the rear end of the spring to the thread rod. Then secure the rear end of the spring with a nut and the second secure nut made out of plate. At the end of assembly it should look lke this. (the arrows show where the front and rear end of the spring should be located): for your assembly!

Hello Bondy, so you are not pleased with the standard one, which looks like this: (I'am asking just to be sure that I understood you right) There is the thicker kick-start rubber of the later 199b model that you can mount to your kick starter, this one looks like this, the rubber is around 25mm in diameter: You will get this rubber from BultacoUK I believe, if they don't have it you can try here: Link

To the look of a bike, I think the eyes always goes with you while riding. An easy to fit "trick" part that does not cost much money are fork bearings from ariete, they work much better then the standard singel / twin oil bearings, have less friction and less initial break torque. They come with an extra dust lip too. They fit together with with the old round dustcover. For Betor and as twin lip bearing it's Ariete type DCY 35 X 47 X 10. You can place some oil seal greae between the lips this will keep them much longer smooth and thight, [url="http://www.yatego.com/ersatzteiltresen/p,4a20f837938a9,4a1ff2f5e381f8_9,gleitmittel-fett-f

Haven't we had this somwhere as a thread already? Here a copy of the repair and maintance manual: The sequence which nut or screw you have to mount is prescribed in this picture. The torque stepping to max torque is 3 Nm. Nut and screw #07 and #08 is up to 18 Nm torque, while the others get 15 Nm. Use some grease like "never-seeze" so the bolts and nuts turn smooth.

That's a nice bike, need some TLC I believe. I have seen two modified older Sherpa models that had some modifications on the todotrial and forums website, one is captured here: todotrial And the other one a Sherpa N here: To modify or not that's the question? As I understood you you don't want transform the bike completly just as far as it is later easy to get the bike back in it's original condition. That is a strategy I try to follow too, (with an earlier model). As Woody already posted it will not turn the bike to a complete winner but I think it's good for the personal self-affirmation of the builder and rider. I would do some changes to the suspensions, there are good conversion kits from magical for the fork and a lot of aftermarket shocks available. Maybe a switch to the OKO carb, as posted a couple of weeks ago this is a good improvement. (this OKO24? OKO24) Then probably the exhaust need's a rebuild because the unit'(s) are clogged with oily debris? The guy's at Secciomotos in Barcelona are very good in rebuilding and tuning for Bultaco's exhausts. Beside of this a good paint job, and small little improvements here that might be satisfying you too, like: - grooved brake pads, - lighter chain, - paint job, - ...

Yep, I do. Not that I like the full electrical equipment very much but I need this for getting the bike road registrated. First then I can get a classic / vintage bike rating and an insurance for the bike. The Bultaco uses 6V, the FEMSA or MOTOPLAT ignition and generator is "rudge" in the delivery of electrical power, (not continouos and in variable power depending of thr rpm), so you need something to get rid of the power peaks otherwise as you already mentioned the bike will eat bulbs frequently. The Bultaco Sherpa used and uses this resistor which is a very simple one. The resistor has to be mounted to the frame and connected to the rear light. Beware, when getting old and rusty this device will not work proper any more. BTW: The original switches and kill botton wich came with this trials bike where very simple and did not work "so good" either they failed often and break down very easy. Bultaco had some better switches and an electronic regulator too, but this electrical equipment was used for the street and enduro bikes. Some Sherpas where fitted with the better equipment when flashlight are required for getting the bike road registrated, like in Germany, Austria and Netherlands I believe, ...). This equipemt was taken from the Metrella (Bultaco streetbike models). The better original switch unit from the Metrella is: - Leonelli Art. Nr. 074 PA7 (complete switch unit with flash switch) Instead of the simple resistor the Metrella and the mentioned Sherpas got an regulator, the model that fits to the Sherpa is: - FACOMSA 6v - LIMIT - 45W, Volante Magnetico, Ref: 1300601 Both electrical parts work much better as the simple ones and are still contemporary. As a switch unit you can certainly take other units. To try a differnt regulator can be a problem for your generator/ignition or both or the different regulator. regulator and generator have to fit each other if not they can "destroy" each other. So I would be very carefully if someone offers you something completly different to your existing old original ignition/generator. There are replacement ignition/generator units available for them you can use a regulator that is recommended by the producer/seller. Hope this is helpful

I would first try BultacoUK: www.bultacouk.com If not there try Orlando Calonder in Switzerland: www.orlandocalondersa.com regards Patrik

Black is nice too! Yes you have to trm the kicker shaft about 1/4 backwards otherwise you won't have enough space for mounting the spring.

Yep that is right, if you put the sticker on and leave the gasoline inside the tank you will get bubbles under the decals. If you want them to stay get a tank made out of glasfiber or aluminium. The round bage sticks so good I personal don't think you will get a problem here.

Painting the cylinder head black, engine body is black too and leave cylinder blasted, Mmm ... well you can give it a try. The kickstart spring mounting you find here: # 5 and # 6

I have heard that name already in an other Forum, ADVRider, olds cool department, there are quite a lot Matadors in the US around, In ADVRider there where just two rebuilds completet, (user: blaine.hale user: tenorjazz). Looking over the pond from the Europeen view it looks like there are more Matadors around then Sherpas from this decade, (my personal view, motorcycle.jaxed.com search engine for US craiglists. I follow the statements of the previous posters + 1 for their opinion! Get a Sherpa, it will be more pleasent to ride in the "rough" or a TY (I know something different but less expensive in the US). The time, effort (and money) you will spend to do all these modifications will not be as noticeable in the outcome compared with a Sherpa.

Just cleaning the threads with air might be not enough, there can be still some debris left of the blasting. I had the same problem with my cylinder. First I tried to cleab them up using brake cleaner sprayed inside the thread holes and then soaked it up again with paper rags. It helped but there was still debris left. I then took some cotten wool wrapped it around a small stick soaked it in WD 40 and then srewed it inside, out again and this worked very good. Befor remounting the head I applied some grease on to the bolts and nuts then they went really smooth in.

These are good/interesting news. I'm looking forward to Your report. Patrik

When you blast parts you will befor doing so cover any threads with strong duct tape or fill threadhols with a rubber piece? I first would try to recut the thread befor installing a heli coil. If this does not help / work then first I would take a Heli-Coil.

I will do a fork swap to my 125TY too, got my hands to a complete front end of a TY250 from 86 I believe. There you have distance difference from at least 4mm between higher clamp to lower clamp (lower clamp is >/+ 4mm farther away) to the steering axle. But distance between the stanchions is wider so you need a new front wheel axle and bushings.