pschrauber

There was much interesting discussion about the OKO carb for the Bultaco. How about the Dellorto PHBH 28mm or 26mm, round slide type, there is some information here in the Bultaco departement, but I found no hints about jetting and how good or bad this carb work with the engine. It would be very interesting to read something about this carb too. At least here in Germany the DellOrto PHBH is much easier to get, (even jets) and the carb is much cheaper too.

The book is named: Observed Trials Editors: Bernie schreiber and Len Weed The book sometimes show up in EBay in the US, but it's getting more and more rare, there is another one which is also very fine from Len Weed and Lane Levitt: It's named: Motorcycle Trials Techniques and Training A couple of years older but also with very cool pic's and training stuff: Even more rare then Bernie's book.

Here is a 199A you find a summery and video on Zonatrial. The bike was shown in 2010,(the site is in Spanish).

I dont't know If I have expressed the use of the screwdriver right, here a scribble sketch that shows how to press down the other widings of the spring or press up the first for inserting the pin:

Hi bondy, OK, how I de- and remount the kickstart spring 02: First unscrew the securety nut made out of plate, Second unscrew the second nut that holds the spring. These are the nuts that are located right above the kickstart axle. Third I unhook the spring from the bolt using a self made spring puller which I have made out of an spoke. The commercial ones look like this: If you don't have a spring puller you can use a wire too, that you wrap around the spring end. The ends of the wire you can roll up on a wooden stick or metal bar so it's comfortable to pull. Now you can hang out the spring easy. Now the spring is loose and it is now easier to pull out the spring from the kick starter shaft*. To do so again you use the spring puller or the wire method mentioned above. If You have difficulties getting out the spring end, you can pull with the one hand and press* the other windings of the coil down, (with a screwdriver f.e.). Then you should get loose your old spring. The new spring just push it over the shaft the end wich is mountet to the pin to the upper right comes first over the kickstart shaft. To get the spring over the shaft you have to bend the front end upwards*. Now take a narrow pliers and pull* the front end of the spring back until you can insert the spring wire in the hole of the kickstart shaft. Again it can be nessecary tu push down the other windings of the spring to get more space, (with a big srewdriver for example). As a plier I use the Knipex key pliers, one of the best pliers you can get: Some of the springs are probably too long as already mentioned here, if so, (luckyly haven't happend for me), you can shorten the spring end a little bit but the front spring end should be nearly as long as the diameter of the shaft. After the front spring end is mounted in the kickstrat shaft hole, you now can strech the spring by hanging up the rear end on the pin using the spring puller or the wire. No secure the spring with the both nuts, ready. * you have to use some force but no jerky violence, than the spring will crack.

My two cent experience: Discoloring by gas vapors looks like this: Difference in effect is that you find these brown / yellow coloring not only on the surface but also inside the plastic. When plastic is discolored by UV bright plastic parts like white light grey, ...turns yellow (darker) and dark plastic parts turns brighter, but only on the surface and through the whole material. The next question is what kind of plastic is used and this question is really dificult to answer because it's mostly not recorded to the older plastic parts as nowaday. Even if you would no it's PE for example there exists at least 6 different PE plastics, only PE-HD for example is completly resistant against gas vapors the other PE plastics, like PE-LD, ... not. The fibreglass gas tank are all reproductions and are not street legal. The plastik tanks where approved by Bultaco trough the German T

Got mine from here spokes and nipples for Bultaco Calonder have them stock. He produces spokes and nipples, so you can get even get the nipples in alloy and the spokes in in stainless steel.

One should in life to learn something new every day, I think this is very important. I really do not respond to postings demotivating but today I'm doing it for my knowledge of the English language and to improve my conversation skills. I'am still learning here! Otherwise I ignore such demotivational posters for them I have lack of time. Do you see the underside of the mounting screw from the fuel valve on the fuel tank? Probably not, unless you crawl around in the grass and look on it from the dog's perspective. I have not written that the tank should be wrapped with the foil, because of me that can be made by Christo Vladimirov Javacheff. I would just place it where the bubbles occurred which only can be at the bottom of the fuel tanks for geometric reasons of the location of the exhaust. Gasoline is highly flammable when strikes blow (for whatever reason) the color from the petrol tank for heat reasons would I (if only for purely health reasons) think about it. @Nigel Dabster: Again a day where i hopefully made ​​some little improvments in English conversation, I know I am far away of beeing good. BTW. just now the rain stopped here and the sun broke through. Have a nice day!

I do it like this: First unscrew the securety nut made out of plate, Second unscrew the second nut that holds the spring. Third I unhook the spring from the bolt using a self made spring puller which I have made out of an spoke. Now the spring is loose and it is now easier to hang out the spring from the kick starter shaft done, (fourth). The reassembling is visa versa.

I also have some doubt's about the new fuel "blending" and therefor switched to a derivative fuel. I came to this fuel from working with my clearing saw and chain saw. The gasoline is based on alcylat there is no ethanol in the fuel. Best thing is you can store it in years, is burns with less carbonate, don't harm plastic or alloy parts and does not smoke. It does cost more then normal gasoline but how much gas do you need for a trials machine..., and you can put in in your chain saw, lawn mower, ... too. The normal Aspen gasoline fuel you get have only 95 Oktan, the gasoline for motorcycles is called Aspen+ has arpond 98 oktan, (you will have to rjet your carb with normal Aspen or Aspen+) I take AspenR wich has 102 oktan and you can fill it everywhere without any jetting changes or thingking about if it has the right oktan number ... It works for my bikes: Bultaco, KTM, Yamaha, chain saw and clearing saw, both Husqvarna, lawn mover: with Briggs and Stratton engine Information: AspenR Aspen+

You may ask Orlano Calonder in Switzerland, (former Bultaco importer that still have a lot of parts even for any Bultacos of the 60's). Probably not the cheapest, but we are talking about parts that are rare so price is not the first matter here. Oralndo Calonder SA Anothere ressource might be Romeromotos in Spain: Romeromotos (But these guys only talk Spanish or Katalan!)

Never heard of any powdercoated gastanks this is a classical paint job IMHO, but why not, you can give it a try?? (But to get any decals under a second clear coat of paint will be dificult I believe???) If a powdercoating is more heat durable then a good paint job, I am not sure. If you have any heat issues, (Haven't had this problem so far), then try heat reflecting self adhesive foil at places where you had that issue. I have done this to my sidepanels and airbox of my enduro bike. This protects very good against heat. You find this foil here for example: heat protection foil Looking like this:

A body shop sounds good, they should have experience with welding alloy, I gave my dented MX pipe to my local body shop and they where able to get them out they are real plate wizards. I don't have any experience with Bultaco alloy gas tanks, on my MX bike I use aluminum foil heat-protection for the back of the sidepaneels where the exhaust goes along. This works very good, the foil is self-adhesive. The foil protects the plastic very good, (my MX bike is an old girl and the plastic sidepanels are not availabe any more to this model). But this might not look so nice on a Sherpa? Here is the ressource in Germany: heat protection foil You might try out heat tape, which you can get in different colors too, this works also very good. You need zip ties to to get them mounted. The manifold of the Sherpa is at the point along the fuel tank at it's highest point so it won't get to dirty there, this might be also a sultion to prevent heat damage to the gas tank. Ressource sadly in Germany again: heat tape Patrik

A 199B same displacement, rebuild still going on, the bike had stood around 15-20 years forgotten in a garage. They could not tell me for how long time. "It always stood there as I could remember" was the answer from the seller when I asked.

Here is an adress where you can get this pait in the UK: pedparts.co.uk Maybe there are other places where you can get it for a cheaper price, I would try to use google in your country.

+1 on PJ1

The gastank is a little bit grainy, but only a little bit, you can compare it to older bumpers when painting these where not in fashion like nowadays, (the main difference is the plastic, the bumpers are made out of harder plastic, (PP or PVC), the Bultaco gas tank material is very soft, I believe it's made out of PE-HD, like the airbox too, (PE-HD is oil and gasoline resistant)). After some use the surface of the tank gets a little bit grey, this comes from cleaning the tank with rugs an cleaning solvents and look like this, the greyish color comes from micro scratches on the above located surface, the "lower" situated surface is still ok and so the blue is still visible. As I mentioned already in my first post a photo of the tank would be nice to look up what is the best procedure to solve this problem, we don't have any so we have to guess. Nevertheless the grained surface is very smooth, the "modulation" might be 200 - 400My, (0,2 - 0,4mm) as already stated with the fine sanding you can get the surface clean and when beginning with fine sandpaper the hopefully clean (*) lower surface will remain. If the tank more scratched or white then use a eccentric sander, beginning with 150 grain then 240 grain, you simply align the surface. then follow as mentioned befor. Best way is to make some small test where you later not see your try out, like the surface under the seat. If I have enough spatretime, whichever is rarely, I can show it. I still have the old gastank of my bike laying around in the garage, (production year of the gastank is 1978! but was fitted to a 199b), the bottom filled with gas gum, plastic penetrated with premix, paint showing bubbles, ...), I can make a quick show and tell if someone is interested.

This sounds interesting, I have heard about a simmilar process called "Fluorination Barrier Treatment" but with different indigrents, that is used for plastic containers, but only available in the U.S. so far as I know: Flouroseal There where already some gas tanks prepared with this treatment with good results. The treatment was done for old KTM bikes from the 80's to 90's, they have this bright white gas tanks that very fast get colored by UV and premix gas vapors, looking "not so good". A big pitty is the "coloration" from the gas vapors because it's not only on the surface it discolors the complete material. Gas tank with coloration from premix: I was therefore a little bit suspicious about doing a paint job to a used tank, when there is discoloring also inside the plastic material there should be oil components also inside, this can effect the adhesion of the paint. I found an never used gas tank for my KTM but it was shaded by UV light and had a light brown-yellow coloring. Luckily only one the surface. Because I did not want to paint the tank I used the preparation with cleaning, sanding and polishing already posted before. Here a pic after I had done one side without the last polishing, (a 4h job so far): Mounted: The result is very OK I think, (By the way the sidepanels got the same treatement). Here another picture with the already done gastank and the radiator shroud where I haven't done any surface refurbish so far, (pic was made for getting replica decals done for the bike, these shown there are samples/try outs and the smaller one's are not the right ones too as I figured out later): Back to the Bultaco: I just repaired the airbox of my Sherpa, glued the cracks: As you see very scratched, there where some deep scratches also on the sides, get rid of them with groove sandpaper wet and dry (240): Then do the sanding over and over again using finer grain: The differences between 400, 600 and 1200 are not so good visible but you feel it, here after the polishing, the photo is taken in side light so you can see the surface very well.

Very nice restauration, my respect for the reconstruction of this bike. you did some "improvement/changes" to the original set up, which is up to the owner to do so. In my personal view I would do two things, first mount the speedo again and second try to look up some original fenders - I know they are quite expensive but they would fit very good to the appearance of the motorcycle. The plastic one's you can use for dirt biking / trial riding, the alloy one's for showing up and "getting bagels from the bakery". I like the gas filler cap, that is a cool one. Any plans what to do with the bike?

To post a procedure that might help without close up picture is difficult. This might be very small "scrathes" from the snading process, they show up even faster as darker the plastic color is. There are two possibilities to get rid of them: 1. method: 1. first a polish with brass polish, 2. then again a polish with silver polish. The basic principle behind this is to substitute deep scratches with shallower and shallower ones, this therefor will only work if you have already used the fine wet and dry sandpaper (1200) befor. Normally starting with 600 then 800 then 1200. 2. method: If you are really keen in stripping paint with a heat gun, then you can skip 1. and 2. and melt the surface just a litle bit but this works only if you are really very very keen, (I personal had so far only good results with this procedere with smaller parts, so I have to take the elbow grease method). Just to note there should be no gas in the tank and the tank have been vented for at leat 24 hours storing him upside down with open gas tap! If the tank is discolored by sunlight or gas then this method will not help completly, discolering from gas is inside the plastic and discolering through UV you will find also som My inside.

Update airbox crack repair: I tried this Henkel Terokal stuff out, used it on a it on s smaller crack at the rear top of my airbox. It worked very good, very important is grinding the surfaces of th plastic with wet amd dry sandpaper (150 or lower) and to clean the surface very well using aceton or thinner. The primer that have to be applied too has to dry on the surface, which does take half an hour. Here is the first glued an filled crack after align with sandpaper: After this good result I know went further to the cracks that are around the upper front mounting of the airbox, again drilled a hole at the end of the crack and widened them, afterwards the where grinded and cleaned with aceton and thinner, here after applieing the primer and waiting for getting dry: This PU stuff looks like poop, luckily it does not smell likewise, (it does not smell at all, very disturbing), here after application: At least I'am very impressed, I will therefor try out this stuff at my helpless cracked chainguard too: Probably someone is intrested in the result.

It depends on the depth of scratches which technique to use. Deep scratches: 1. Start off with "Wet & Dry" paper (grade 600) using water with a little bit of soap as a lubricant. (The water is essential to keep the paper grains free.) Gently "grind" away at the area until you cannot see the original scratches. (The area will go like frosted glass, but don't worry at this just yet!); 2. Change grade of Wet & Dry to 800 and do the same; 3. Change to grade 1200 wet & dry. do same grinding... (The basic principle behind this is to substitute deep scratches with shallower and shallower ones.); 4. Once you have got through the 1200 grade process, thoroughly clean &dry the area; 5. Use "Duraglit" or "Brasso" BRASS polish to remove the "frosted" effect; 6. Once this looks nice and shiny, use a SILVER polish to give a final finish. For fine scratches, start at 4) above. This takes time, you cannot rush it. Even when you think the scratches have gone, give the process a bit longer. There are NO short cuts to polishing. (You can also use these plastic polish stuff in step 6 but these polish tubes or bottles are very expensive, a brass and a silver polish do the work too.) Do Step 1 to 4 only at and around the scratched areas this will save some time.

I'am very sorry to tell you that it will not work with rattle can paint. Even with a perfect paint job done with 2-compound PU paint it will not work. Every time the fender will be considerable bend the paintlayer on the plastic will be compressed or stretched if it is only a little bit no problem, but when happening after a "back flip", ... no chance, the overstressed paint layer will chip of or get crinkly. This will turn your fender in a more "ugly" status as it is now. Best way to cure scratched plastic is first to plane ridges away with a cutterblade, then use grinding paper 600 to 1200, (sand with using water!), to sand the surfaces. After that treatment polish the platic, this will look much better in the long run.

Had the same problem too, you may ask www.bultacouk.com in your home country if they have any replacement, (I think they might have). If not you can get replicas out of fiber from Orlando Calonder in Switzerland. (www.orlandocalondersa.com) My airbox have cracks too, here both of them the original on the left side, the replica on the right: You have to drill the holes for the fasteners and the sidepanel by your own, even the hole for the airbox cover has to be recutted, but then you can be sure it will fit. The airbox cover is from a 199b model but he has replikas of the other models too. I know it might sound silly, but I will give a repair of the original airbox a try, after reading this book: Motorrad restaurieren von A bis Z sadly in German) The autor has found a plastic repair set from Henkel here in Germany that can repair all sort of plastic cracks. The repair set is no bargain but workes perfect. It's based on a two Compound mastix that you can use as a glue and filler, then you need a special primer. You can even remount broken plastic brackets that suppose to hold side panels or likewise, He states and shows that this stuff is very strong,(stronger than most plastic materials that where used originally). Glue and Filler: Terokal 9225 Primer: Terokal 150 mix pistol: Teromix 6700 I haven't used it until know, because there are some other pieces for other restaurations/rebuilds going on where I want to repair plastics too, cause of the cost of this stuff I will repair all of them at once. I have already used Henkel products like Loctite 3463, (steel filled metal knead that is as strong as normal steel), that showed very good results. May be there are some other british brands that work too ?

Befor the guessing here starts, my 0,02