much help needed. ive just finished my 199A and my front sprocket is leaking. so i changed the seal behind the front sprocket and the o ring and the metal bush. i replaced the sprocket and it was still leaking. it is leaking from the final end drive. so i replaced the seal on the end of the gear shaft. it is still leaking slightly but can you advise that this is normal for bultacos?
Mmmh,
If you have installed the bearings right there should not come out any oil, Now there is only guessing left:
1.
The axis of the front sprocket spindle contains the shaft of the gear box and the clutch pressure rod / pin, like these russian puppets. May be you have something installed the wrong way from the inside?
It is no problem to let them stuck out some mm, the dust cover will fit anyway, at least mine do. There do exist two original late cylindirc rubber dustcovers from Bultaco one with a small loge around 5-7mm in diameter and the other one with has a logo around 12 - 14mm in diameter, the one with the smaller logo fit. I would always mount two seals and as these rings have a double lip, you can place seal grease in the gap of the lips, (when purchasing a set of them, you get a little tube from Ariete with that special grease).
Yes, main bearings were changed - it was by Dave Renhams engine builder, so i would assume it was done correctly.
Your exhaust looks good. What brand do you use? (I use Halfords and i am not convinced)
Mine always look like that until they get a drop of oil/grease/petrol on them and then they are stained. Is that because they have not been cured do you think? The surface does stay rough.
This time I tried over coating mine with VHT lacquer, which looked great, but today spilled petrol on it and it came off in seconds - very annoying!
I think i will see if i can spray them again and the get them baked (they will not fit in my oven!) or fit to the bike VERY carefully and bake them in situ.
Thanks,
Max
Have used POR15 once with best results but this paint is very pricey and difficult to apply, the paint here is from a supplier for professional workshops "Werkstatt Bedarf" in Germany suppose to be resistant up to 600
It is still running the original Amal carb. The bike has only done a genuine 187 miles would you believe (it has been my fathers since new)
I am thinking it may well be the carb/slide body. Would it help to give the slide a light rub with 1400 (or higher) grit wet and dry to make sure it is as smooth as can be, do you think?
Or is there anything you can use to lubricate the motion slightly?
I am happy to buy a new slide, but wonder if it is worth trying anything first?
AND any suggestions or tips for VHT paint for exhaust?
Thanks all.
Max
The main bearings of the crank where changed too and are installed proper? You can try out your easy checking method at leat on the ignition side.
To the paint job, I have personal got good result with good heat resistand paint from the can when the silencer was blasted so no rust or old paint was left.
After application you should wait until the paint is really dry and then store the parts in an oven or "heat chamber" for some hours. Ask your lokal paint shop if they can do the paint job and heat threatment for you. You will notice that the paintsurface of a heat treated exhaust is still dull but has not the same rough surface anymore which is normally typical for this heat resistance paint when applied.
By the way don't apply the paint when it is too cold, best temp. is around 20
I rang BultacoUK for the next size pilot jet up, they said that the biggest they had was a 45 and that to go higher would be a fools errand (my words), they suggested that with the pilot at 45, compared to 40 as standard was not sorting the root cause, which seems a reasonable comment. The problem is I've tried all the things that are obvious:
1. I've blown out the carb with a high pressure hose, its very clean as far as I can tell.
2. The carb is new, so no clatter from the throttle and the needle is straight and new along with all the jets.
3. All jets etc are standard apart from the pilot.
4. I've tried moving the needle up one clip with no noticable improvement.
5. I've tried putting all the old carb jets etc on with no change (In fact worse as this has a 40 Pilot on it).
Questions:
1. If I move the float height up slightly will this have the effect of richening the pilot circuit?
2. If I were to change the Main Jet for a larger one, wouldn't it have the effect of richening the mid-top end of the mixture, which is currently OK?
3. If I were to change the needle from standard, what would I change it to?
Thanks again
Mick
To your questions:
To question Nr. 1:
You should not change the float height in any direction there is only one position it works proper! Check out by turnig the carburator upside down on a table, then look at the arms of the floats that they are perfect parallel to the table.
Look up the instructions book for your carburator, (still not knowing which brand and model you have for the correct distance in mm and 10/mm.
See picture:
2.
The main jet controlls only 3/4 to full throttle so the effect for trials riding is very low, I would opt for the standard one, best what you can do
See picture:
3.
The needle, I would also not change the needle, take the standard one, mine is sitting in the second noth counted from up downwards.
The needle has three parts the tip with the notches, there should be 4 nothes. By changing the notch position it is possible to raise or to lower the needle in order to obtain mixture enrichment or mixture weakening over the range that is regulated by the needle taper, which is, - look up again to answer to question 2: between 1/8 to half of the throttle. Here again I would not change the needle if I do not have an real issue. You can get different needles with different cylindrial parts (look at C), this will affect the mixture strengh in the the first throttle valve movements up to about a 1/4 throttel, very useful for trialsriding, (therefor I asked also if the needle is in proper status befor too). If you change f. e. to a reduction in the diameter of this cylindrical part this will produce a mixture enrichment and by increasing the opposite. But befor you do any changes here first get familiar with the throttel response you have now and then first start changing and do some experimental stuff. (It's just my opinion you can still do what you want).
My M159 is all restored with new seals, bearings etc, etc. The only moving parts not renewed are the piston/rings/bores (loads of compression and fine in my opinion) and the swing arm bushes (not a problem). Apart from that its all new.
I've fitted electrex ignition which is timed correctly for this model I believe (2.9mm BTDC) checked on a strobe and it starts on choke very easily.
Everything is very smooth and lovely, BUT, in order for it to tick over correctly once warmed up it has to have the mixture screw wound all the way in! If I try backing it out at all (1.5 turns out is standard) it coughs and backfires even at 1/8th turn out from fully seated it starts to react negatively. The carb is a brand new Bing with new jets etc.
I understand the different stages of the carburation cycle and the effect the various elements play in the transition from idle through to max. revs and have gone through each element of the carb confirming the settings are correct, so:
Pilot Jet is already 45, which should be 40, so it should run rich on this jet anyway, but it doesn't.
Needle is on the second clip from bottom (tried next one up with no benefit), the needle is standard for this model.
Main is 125, but I do not have a problem once above idle/low revs, so this is not expected to need to changing.
Floats are at standard height as per the manual.
With the pilot screw all the way in, it runs and ticks over fine, which suggests it is something to do with the pilot mixture in some way.
Can anybody help me with an obvious answer? Even those nice people at BultacoUK couldn't shed light on the matter. If the answer is to have the pilot screw all the way in then I 'll just have to accept it as it is and move on, but it is strange....
Thanks in advance wise sages
Mick
Mmmh ...
Which Carburator model have you mounted to your Bultaco, just to make sure.
Have you cleaned your carburator very well, all pipe and tubes inside, there are no cleaning rag or kitchen paper / Kleenex, ... left overs somewhere, (this can happend).
Look at your slide inside the carb, still working proper, which means:
The slide or the cylinder where the slide sits inside the carburator is not worn out, If the slide is chattering around inside the carbbode it' time to replace, if there are sliding marks an the cylinder surface you might have to exchange the carb body too. (Does happen when the carb is as old as the bike, with a worn out slide proper jettting is a pian / will not success.
Is the carb needle nice and there are no signs of abrasion visible and the needle is not bent, if you see sliding marks or the needle is worn out and the needle jet too. If the needle is bent you have to exchange both parts too.
Of interest was that after fiddling with a strobe and getting it spot on it was back in the position the instuctions advised.
I think the confusion is that points are static timing, Electrex advances to the optimum by 13 degrees (I think) and it is this feature that makes the power deliver so smooth and tractible.
Well worth the money.
Martin
OK, this is an advantage, with the points you have only one timing!
Three question to the electrex ignition is it only the stator you change? or the complete ignition unit with stator and rotor? are their also a power supply added for lights f.e. ?
When fitted and running properly was the Electrex system worth the hassle over the points system, was it a worthwhile improvement?
Would be interesting to hear any experience storys or data to me too, I have been told that it is not so much necessary, because the engne is more running at lower rpm? OK there are the point, something to check here and there, but beside of checking points and probably exchange them ... ???
Oh this was difficult to understand, so long sentenses, just to see if I had understood right:
#01 You finished your 199b Bultaco Sherpa.
#02 You have mounted new cluth plates, they are from Barnet. Who is Barnett? (I'am from the continent just therefor my silly question))
#03 Then you tried to kickstart the engine and id did not work because the cluth was slipping
#04 You notices that one of the spring cups had pulled throw ....
This need explanation at least to me? ... You mean some of the cubs where worn out?
#05 Then You noticed the cluth had the metal one's in it? Do you mean the clutch plates from #02?
#06 It turned out that You have forgotten to install the little ball that is located between the cluth and the clutch rod, but You fond out by yourself that there was something missing. (Oh, this can happen !)
#07 You can not wait get the bike running until you get the new clutch cups.
#08 You got a new carb from spain.
#09 You don't know the carb setting and if it was deliverd with the right jets?
#10 If someone here knows the right setting and jets?
This will be difficult because you did not name the brand, the type and the size of your new carburator
As long as there is no information to the carb the answer might be wrong / very difficult to answer.
Sometimes You have to make a change to the airbox sometimes not, depending to other modifications that are done.
We came to a different solution, because we wanted to do a refinement and in our opinion better design of the tubes inside
the airbox which work as Helmholtz resonators, (like the tubes inside the rear silencer), this is done now on paper, my job is no to transfer it in practice. Can post the result later if someone is interested.
Thanks for your comments and your English is also much better than my German BTW!
Yes I'll get a couple of shots of it on here ASAP.
Yes I have had a bit of a chat with its previous owners Roy. Chris and Dave though this was just bits of snatched conversation really while riding in the same trials as them at lease 6/7 years ago and I don
Well, ... probably I'am too much continental, too much a German / Finlandswedish blend, (fahter German, mother Finnish but Swedish speaking minorety) and therefor not beeing home in one language but a little in any and so not enough for getting the point ???
In my oppinion any rider that owns a bike can do with it what he want's, some only ride with them, some are rebuilding, some are modding, some are trashing them.
Here we discuss them, and in particular the bike of the show. As stated already I like Bultaco have by the way ridden them since 1981. I'am not a fan of a special brand but do have some different distances to each of the brands and types. I would never state that some brand or model is really crappy or superior. There are brands and models that probably does not fit me, my riding style, my color scheme or just my taste but others will. So I'am always very carefully because my view is personal and can be different to others. I'am also rebuilding a Bultaco trials bike a 199b from 1981, looking thru every screw, washer and part.
While doing that I think about the whishes I have:
1. get it back to it's original status again, working properly, (I first thaught it would be possible to leave the patina but there too many issues).
2. do some improvements too.
I came to the point that any improvements has to be rebuildable, there has to be the possibility to get the bike back in a original status, because IMHO it have it's own history, second my own taste might change. I will not cut off anything from the original parts or add anything. If I want to do an improvement I get a second part where the mods will be done.
I therefor have now two forks, one standard and one which is moddded, two airboxes, three rear shock pairs, (but I'am not so pleased with the Betor replacement I have got from Spain because it is different to the original one, have to search for a real NOS one), and so on ... (the list of all the modifications does not belong in this threat IMHP, only one request I don't want to hitchhike this threat)
But I'am too a professional when it comes to construction and design, it's part of my job. So when it comes to exploration and modfication I do it serious. Most wrenching and rebuilds I do by my self, but I don't have any serious shop equipment like a lathe or a milling machine. My skills in engine repairs are limited too because I don't have a lot of experience here weather to decide if the bearing in the lower rod is OK or not. So these repairs are done by professionals and I can discuss with them improvements or modifications that a worth to do or not.
This is my background to my opinion. As already stated this hybrid looks good and could look IMHO better when having a different tank seat combo.
It is already a good information that a professional had set up this bike. Second part of the story to this bike can be what he had done for modifications, so where is the biff in this department?
Not all modifications are visible at first spot or from one side. There might be engine mods that are very interesting to know, even frame modifications, (also I will not do any), ...
That was my question, I now have the information that Reg May has done the work ... OK fine ..., but what else have he done beside of mounting an older engine to a modern frame and bodywork as it seems to be and what was his intention?If there is anybody that can tell anything about the bikes mod's it would be a pleasure for me!
I don't think any of you realise apart from big john , exactly what Reg was capable
of doing with a motorcycle and in knowing that what this bike consists of ,
as he said anything that was built by Reg was special.
To me he was better than any Bultaco factory designer/mechanic ever
and John is in his own right just as clever.
This bike is not an aftermarket frame or anything like that at all
as I said it is a bike that he built and John has built to their
own spec.
+1
Plus he had free access to all the right Bultaco parts and some of the best fabricators in the industry at the time
That ain't no ordinary Bultaco - it was simply stunning in the flesh, a true Reg May 'work of motorcycle trials bike art'
Sounds cool, not to blame anyone but there is not much to see beside the older engine in a midage frame I believe, maybe you can tell us about the changes that where made to the engine, frame and suspension.
I'am interested in any changes worth, but even now a little bit suspicious about an engine with an porting-, gearbox- and crank- design of the 60's to be as good converted that he is superior to a mid 70' engine, (Bultaco made their homework too), and than mounted in a mid 70' frame like it look's now.
Do not have to be the original repalcement kit Bultaco had sold back then but yes this gastank seat combo fit's a little bit better IMHO to the engine:
hello all can anybody tell me whats the best way to seal the holes were the greas nipels go the only reason im sealing them is because ive put the rolling bush kit in ive tryd clear silicon and it just keeps coming out when its dry is there somthing else what would work?
Try a headless screw or grub screw that fits together with loctite 603, you might mill away the apex of the screw first. Maybe it also works with loctite 243, (the blue liqued), but i would not bet on it, because there are only some threads. The 603, (green one), is a real glue but difficult to get loose again.
As an older rider I once thaught riding a trials 4 stroke is a nice idea, cool sound, no premix, smoother engine, .... in the mid 80's there was also a let's call it a small 4-stroke rush, so I've got an Italjet Scott plonker back then and was disappointed, because of the weight and the engine that was far behind the 2-stroke in torque, power output, ...
I went back to a 2-stroke after some months, getting a Montesa Cota 304 and where pleased again.
As all know a couple of years ago nearly all manufactors have developed 4-stroke bikes, (intresting point is that gasgas has aborted their 4-stroke project, if they will do a restart ...?), but as also mentioned already the development of the 2-stroke engine went on too.
After the new OSSA now has developed a working fuel injection system for a 2-stroke trials I think there is no substancial benefit anymore using a 4-stroke engine.
The electric driven bikes do have some issues with the batteries now. Maybe in the future we will see cheaper, better and lighter units that don't cost as much as now. As long as these rechargeable batteries make up between 60 - 40% of the complete bike and only have a limited duration I will not hop up this train.
Best thing for a consumer like me is to wait if there will be another break throw in technical development, I once took part in the development by buying a nice looking and cool sounding piece where the development wasn't finished I will not do that again. It is just too expensive.
I will follow any further invention that will be made in the engine comparement and if it will turn out it is a benefit I will opt for it.
Meanwhile:
I'am pleased with the 2-stroke, again!
I will not go for a 4 - stroke because there is no benefit.
There is no serial electric trialsbike for adults, so this is not an option for me yet.
The ItalJet Scot 4T is not the correct bike to judge a modern 4T. When the ItalJet came out 25 years ago (!!!) it was a poor trials bike. I think that it was intended as a Trail bike not for competition.
I haven't judged a modern 4t, please look up my posting and read it again and you will see that I only compared it to bikes of the same area. I haven't mentioned any comparison between the old to the modern one.
The modern 4-stroke is cool and works great. No dubts! But it is still al ittle bit heavier, it does cost sill a little bit more and an engine repair compaired between a 4T and 2T will be a little bit more expensive on the 4T side.
I did post this old story because I have learned my lesson:
Do not always switch to the newst technology if the development is not completed.
IMHO the question between 2T and 4T is a question between beer and wine or choclat and wine gum, now.
Both engine system work, the real advantage you might have between these both systems belongs to the world championship rider, I'am so far away of their skills so I will not post any statement which of the engine systems is better. It's a task of personal taste and riding style I would say.
In technology there is a close up race between the 2T and 4T. Only a couple of years ago the 4T was in front, now the 2T has catched up. It will certainly be very intresting to see what the futur will show us.
As an older rider I once thaught riding a trials 4 stroke is a nice idea, cool sound, no premix, smoother engine, .... in the mid 80's there was also a let's call it a small 4-stroke rush, so I've got an Italjet Scott plonker back then and was disappointed, because of the weight and the engine that was far behind the 2-stroke in torque, power output, ...
I went back to a 2-stroke after some months, getting a Montesa Cota 304 and where pleased again.
As all know a couple of years ago nearly all manufactors have developed 4-stroke bikes, (intresting point is that gasgas has aborted their 4-stroke project, if they will do a restart ...?), but as also mentioned already the development of the 2-stroke engine went on too.
After the new OSSA now has developed a working fuel injection system for a 2-stroke trials I think there is no substancial benefit anymore using a 4-stroke engine.
The electric driven bikes do have some issues with the batteries now. Maybe in the future we will see cheaper, better and lighter units that don't cost as much as now. As long as these rechargeable batteries make up between 60 - 40% of the complete bike and only have a limited duration I will not hop up this train.
Best thing for a consumer like me is to wait if there will be another break throw in technical development, I once took part in the development by buying a nice looking and cool sounding piece where the development wasn't finished I will not do that again. It is just too expensive.
I will follow any further invention that will be made in the engine comparement and if it will turn out it is a benefit I will opt for it.
Meanwhile:
I'am pleased with the 2-stroke, again!
I will not go for a 4 - stroke because there is no benefit.
There is no serial electric trialsbike for adults, so this is not an option for me yet.
front sprocket leak
in Bultaco
Posted
Mmmh,
If you have installed the bearings right there should not come out any oil, Now there is only guessing left:
1.
The axis of the front sprocket spindle contains the shaft of the gear box and the clutch pressure rod / pin, like these russian puppets. May be you have something installed the wrong way from the inside?
2,
Maybe you have just filled in too much gear oil?
Where does the oil come out:
-a between the sprocket shaft and the oils seal
-b between the sprocket shaft and the inner shaft
-c from the hole of the clutch rod/pin?
Maybe this helps?