pschrauber

Here the ressource of the fork seals from Ariete, there You find both standard oil-seals and oils seals with an additional dust cover: direct link to part list fork seals Home Page of the Italien manufactor Ariete, as mentioned already You get them from Bräuer in Germany f. e. or might be somewhere in the UK ?? Homepage Ariete It is no problem to let them stuck out some mm, the dust cover will fit anyway, at least mine do. There do exist two original late cylindirc rubber dustcovers from Bultaco one with a small loge around 5-7mm in diameter and the other one with has a logo around 12 - 14mm in diameter, the one with the smaller logo fit. I would always mount two seals and as these rings have a double lip, you can place seal grease in the gap of the lips, (when purchasing a set of them, you get a little tube from Ariete with that special grease).

Sorry I don't have any ressources for oil seals in Great Britain, only a German ressource: www.braeuer-motorsport.de They have them for example, send them an E-mail, english is no problem. But in Germany there are a lot of other places too try google: "Simmerringe Gabel Staubschutz 35 x 47 mm" The name Simmerrine = oil seal in Germany is still used after Walter Simmer, he invented these type of oil seal in 1929. It's no big problem to let them stick out some mm, the original dustcover will fit anyway. I have mounted two in each slider, btw. the older slider have a deeper skew where they both of them fit exactly: Here some pic's of my forks, one standard or original and one pair of forks modded:

Sounds very good, sometimes small things can get you in much troubel.

Have used POR15 once with best results but this paint is very pricey and difficult to apply, the paint here is from a supplier for professional workshops "Werkstatt Bedarf" in Germany suppose to be resistant up to 600

The main bearings of the crank where changed too and are installed proper? You can try out your easy checking method at leat on the ignition side. To the paint job, I have personal got good result with good heat resistand paint from the can when the silencer was blasted so no rust or old paint was left. After application you should wait until the paint is really dry and then store the parts in an oven or "heat chamber" for some hours. Ask your lokal paint shop if they can do the paint job and heat threatment for you. You will notice that the paintsurface of a heat treated exhaust is still dull but has not the same rough surface anymore which is normally typical for this heat resistance paint when applied. By the way don't apply the paint when it is too cold, best temp. is around 20

To your questions: To question Nr. 1: You should not change the float height in any direction there is only one position it works proper! Check out by turnig the carburator upside down on a table, then look at the arms of the floats that they are perfect parallel to the table. Look up the instructions book for your carburator, (still not knowing which brand and model you have for the correct distance in mm and 10/mm. See picture: 2. The main jet controlls only 3/4 to full throttle so the effect for trials riding is very low, I would opt for the standard one, best what you can do See picture: 3. The needle, I would also not change the needle, take the standard one, mine is sitting in the second noth counted from up downwards. The needle has three parts the tip with the notches, there should be 4 nothes. By changing the notch position it is possible to raise or to lower the needle in order to obtain mixture enrichment or mixture weakening over the range that is regulated by the needle taper, which is, - look up again to answer to question 2: between 1/8 to half of the throttle. Here again I would not change the needle if I do not have an real issue. You can get different needles with different cylindrial parts (look at C), this will affect the mixture strengh in the the first throttle valve movements up to about a 1/4 throttel, very useful for trialsriding, (therefor I asked also if the needle is in proper status befor too). If you change f. e. to a reduction in the diameter of this cylindrical part this will produce a mixture enrichment and by increasing the opposite. But befor you do any changes here first get familiar with the throttel response you have now and then first start changing and do some experimental stuff. (It's just my opinion you can still do what you want).

Mmmh ... Which Carburator model have you mounted to your Bultaco, just to make sure. Have you cleaned your carburator very well, all pipe and tubes inside, there are no cleaning rag or kitchen paper / Kleenex, ... left overs somewhere, (this can happend). Look at your slide inside the carb, still working proper, which means: The slide or the cylinder where the slide sits inside the carburator is not worn out, If the slide is chattering around inside the carbbode it' time to replace, if there are sliding marks an the cylinder surface you might have to exchange the carb body too. (Does happen when the carb is as old as the bike, with a worn out slide proper jettting is a pian / will not success. Is the carb needle nice and there are no signs of abrasion visible and the needle is not bent, if you see sliding marks or the needle is worn out and the needle jet too. If the needle is bent you have to exchange both parts too.

OK, this is an advantage, with the points you have only one timing! Three question to the electrex ignition is it only the stator you change? or the complete ignition unit with stator and rotor? are their also a power supply added for lights f.e. ?

Would be interesting to hear any experience storys or data to me too, I have been told that it is not so much necessary, because the engne is more running at lower rpm? OK there are the point, something to check here and there, but beside of checking points and probably exchange them ... ???

Oh this was difficult to understand, so long sentenses, just to see if I had understood right: #01 You finished your 199b Bultaco Sherpa. #02 You have mounted new cluth plates, they are from Barnet. Who is Barnett? (I'am from the continent just therefor my silly question)) #03 Then you tried to kickstart the engine and id did not work because the cluth was slipping #04 You notices that one of the spring cups had pulled throw .... This need explanation at least to me? ... You mean some of the cubs where worn out? #05 Then You noticed the cluth had the metal one's in it? Do you mean the clutch plates from #02? #06 It turned out that You have forgotten to install the little ball that is located between the cluth and the clutch rod, but You fond out by yourself that there was something missing. (Oh, this can happen !) #07 You can not wait get the bike running until you get the new clutch cups. #08 You got a new carb from spain. #09 You don't know the carb setting and if it was deliverd with the right jets? #10 If someone here knows the right setting and jets? This will be difficult because you did not name the brand, the type and the size of your new carburator As long as there is no information to the carb the answer might be wrong / very difficult to answer. Could you please give us the carb specs? brand: type: size: Thank's.

Oh You mean I did not got the point? I just have to point out that in the world of translation the word point or pointss due have some different meanings, here are some, (not all): point der Z

This is a the answer! point = look up your ignition I think! Look up your gap between the ignition contactors, should be 0,4mm. Then look up timing, which should be 2,5 - 2,7mm befor TDC as I know, (TDC = top dead center of the piston). As earlier as "crispier" the engine will run.

@Woody: Just my 0,02 Pence: Sometimes You have to make a change to the airbox sometimes not, depending to other modifications that are done. We came to a different solution, because we wanted to do a refinement and in our opinion better design of the tubes inside the airbox which work as Helmholtz resonators, (like the tubes inside the rear silencer), this is done now on paper, my job is no to transfer it in practice. Can post the result later if someone is interested.

Mmmh ... sounds to me like you have been around quite a lot and did talk about your bike with a lot of people. As I understand, (English is not my mothertongue), you wnat to rebuild your bike but you are not sure to do so. Maybe you post some photos, that would be nice a pic tells more than thousend words IMHO. Than you could tell us which kind of improvements

Well, ... probably I'am too much continental, too much a German / Finlandswedish blend, (fahter German, mother Finnish but Swedish speaking minorety) and therefor not beeing home in one language but a little in any and so not enough for getting the point ??? In my oppinion any rider that owns a bike can do with it what he want's, some only ride with them, some are rebuilding, some are modding, some are trashing them. Here we discuss them, and in particular the bike of the show. As stated already I like Bultaco have by the way ridden them since 1981. I'am not a fan of a special brand but do have some different distances to each of the brands and types. I would never state that some brand or model is really crappy or superior. There are brands and models that probably does not fit me, my riding style, my color scheme or just my taste but others will. So I'am always very carefully because my view is personal and can be different to others. I'am also rebuilding a Bultaco trials bike a 199b from 1981, looking thru every screw, washer and part. While doing that I think about the whishes I have: 1. get it back to it's original status again, working properly, (I first thaught it would be possible to leave the patina but there too many issues). 2. do some improvements too. I came to the point that any improvements has to be rebuildable, there has to be the possibility to get the bike back in a original status, because IMHO it have it's own history, second my own taste might change. I will not cut off anything from the original parts or add anything. If I want to do an improvement I get a second part where the mods will be done. I therefor have now two forks, one standard and one which is moddded, two airboxes, three rear shock pairs, (but I'am not so pleased with the Betor replacement I have got from Spain because it is different to the original one, have to search for a real NOS one), and so on ... (the list of all the modifications does not belong in this threat IMHP, only one request I don't want to hitchhike this threat) But I'am too a professional when it comes to construction and design, it's part of my job. So when it comes to exploration and modfication I do it serious. Most wrenching and rebuilds I do by my self, but I don't have any serious shop equipment like a lathe or a milling machine. My skills in engine repairs are limited too because I don't have a lot of experience here weather to decide if the bearing in the lower rod is OK or not. So these repairs are done by professionals and I can discuss with them improvements or modifications that a worth to do or not. This is my background to my opinion. As already stated this hybrid looks good and could look IMHO better when having a different tank seat combo. It is already a good information that a professional had set up this bike. Second part of the story to this bike can be what he had done for modifications, so where is the biff in this department? Not all modifications are visible at first spot or from one side. There might be engine mods that are very interesting to know, even frame modifications, (also I will not do any), ... That was my question, I now have the information that Reg May has done the work ... OK fine ..., but what else have he done beside of mounting an older engine to a modern frame and bodywork as it seems to be and what was his intention?If there is anybody that can tell anything about the bikes mod's it would be a pleasure for me!

Sounds cool, not to blame anyone but there is not much to see beside the older engine in a midage frame I believe, maybe you can tell us about the changes that where made to the engine, frame and suspension. I'am interested in any changes worth, but even now a little bit suspicious about an engine with an porting-, gearbox- and crank- design of the 60's to be as good converted that he is superior to a mid 70' engine, (Bultaco made their homework too), and than mounted in a mid 70' frame like it look's now.

Befor I post You any adress from the continet use google with: "loctite 603" buy One hint this stuff is expensive, you can get a very small tube from Graupner, thru Amazon: - 50ml Loctite around 46

Do not have to be the original repalcement kit Bultaco had sold back then but yes this gastank seat combo fit's a little bit better IMHO to the engine: Here as an example:

Cool hybrid, but in my very personal taste I would like to see the glassfibre tank seat combo on this bike with the out of the middle gas filler stub. But this is only my personal view.

Try a headless screw or grub screw that fits together with loctite 603, you might mill away the apex of the screw first. Maybe it also works with loctite 243, (the blue liqued), but i would not bet on it, because there are only some threads. The 603, (green one), is a real glue but difficult to get loose again.

I haven't judged a modern 4t, please look up my posting and read it again and you will see that I only compared it to bikes of the same area. I haven't mentioned any comparison between the old to the modern one. The modern 4-stroke is cool and works great. No dubts! But it is still al ittle bit heavier, it does cost sill a little bit more and an engine repair compaired between a 4T and 2T will be a little bit more expensive on the 4T side. I did post this old story because I have learned my lesson: Do not always switch to the newst technology if the development is not completed. IMHO the question between 2T and 4T is a question between beer and wine or choclat and wine gum, now. Both engine system work, the real advantage you might have between these both systems belongs to the world championship rider, I'am so far away of their skills so I will not post any statement which of the engine systems is better. It's a task of personal taste and riding style I would say. In technology there is a close up race between the 2T and 4T. Only a couple of years ago the 4T was in front, now the 2T has catched up. It will certainly be very intresting to see what the futur will show us.

Just to throw my 2 Pence or Cent opinion in here: As an older rider I once thaught riding a trials 4 stroke is a nice idea, cool sound, no premix, smoother engine, .... in the mid 80's there was also a let's call it a small 4-stroke rush, so I've got an Italjet Scott plonker back then and was disappointed, because of the weight and the engine that was far behind the 2-stroke in torque, power output, ... I went back to a 2-stroke after some months, getting a Montesa Cota 304 and where pleased again. As all know a couple of years ago nearly all manufactors have developed 4-stroke bikes, (intresting point is that gasgas has aborted their 4-stroke project, if they will do a restart ...?), but as also mentioned already the development of the 2-stroke engine went on too. After the new OSSA now has developed a working fuel injection system for a 2-stroke trials I think there is no substancial benefit anymore using a 4-stroke engine. The electric driven bikes do have some issues with the batteries now. Maybe in the future we will see cheaper, better and lighter units that don't cost as much as now. As long as these rechargeable batteries make up between 60 - 40% of the complete bike and only have a limited duration I will not hop up this train. Best thing for a consumer like me is to wait if there will be another break throw in technical development, I once took part in the development by buying a nice looking and cool sounding piece where the development wasn't finished I will not do that again. It is just too expensive. I will follow any further invention that will be made in the engine comparement and if it will turn out it is a benefit I will opt for it. Meanwhile: I'am pleased with the 2-stroke, again! I will not go for a 4 - stroke because there is no benefit. There is no serial electric trialsbike for adults, so this is not an option for me yet.

And the some other pic's too: Here a 175ccm Sherpa in action, this is not mine:

Ok here You are: