[What Is The Future - 4 Stroke Or 2 Stroke?]

Just to throw my 2 Pence or Cent opinion in here:

As an older rider I once thaught riding a trials 4 stroke is a nice idea, cool sound, no premix, smoother engine, .... in the mid 80's there was also a let's call it a small 4-stroke rush, so I've got an Italjet Scott plonker back then and was disappointed, because of the weight and the engine that was far behind the 2-stroke in torque, power output, ...

I went back to a 2-stroke after some months, getting a Montesa Cota 304 and where pleased again.

As all know a couple of years ago nearly all manufactors have developed 4-stroke bikes, (intresting point is that gasgas has aborted their 4-stroke project, if they will do a restart ...?), but as also mentioned already the development of the 2-stroke engine went on too.

After the new OSSA now has developed a working fuel injection system for a 2-stroke trials I think there is no substancial benefit anymore using a 4-stroke engine.

The electric driven bikes do have some issues with the batteries now. Maybe in the future we will see cheaper, better and lighter units that don't cost as much as now. As long as these rechargeable batteries make up between 60 - 40% of the complete bike and only have a limited duration I will not hop up this train.

Best thing for a consumer like me is to wait if there will be another break throw in technical development, I once took part in the development by buying a nice looking and cool sounding piece where the development wasn't finished I will not do that again. It is just too expensive.

I will follow any further invention that will be made in the engine comparement and if it will turn out it is a benefit I will opt for it.

Meanwhile:

I'am pleased with the 2-stroke, again!

I will not go for a 4 - stroke because there is no benefit.

There is no serial electric trialsbike for adults, so this is not an option for me yet.

[sherpa 221 blue]

And the some other pic's too:

Here a 175ccm Sherpa in action, this is not mine:

[sherpa 221 blue]

http://http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gURF3ZB5vX8/TS5CYsoAhNI/AAAAAAAABwk/s0U8fiFUxLU/s576/175%27er%20Bultaco%20Sherpa%2003-04.jpg[/img]mestamp='1294742509' post='257895']

Thanks you so much,is it possible i can have some more photogrsphs please?Id like to see the bike from all angles.Cheers

Ok here You are:

[sherpa 221 blue]

Thank you so much for the information and photos. Im new to this Bultaco forum,so if you have any more photos or any relevant info on the 221, as i beleive this is quite a rare model. Your bike is a credit to you, looks fantastic! Any info will be greatly appreciated as i have little knowledge on this model. Kind regards darrel

Hi Darrel,

if You need photos and or other information/copy of documents, you can PN me a list or write it down here in your threat. I will then look around at home, if I may can help you.

[headsteady]

I know when I'm beaten.

Do you think so IMHO this is a classical

win-win or no-win situation isn't it?

But interesting and entertaining it was, no doubt.

[headsteady]

You do understand sarcasm don't you?

Oh Yes, when it is announced before or unimpressed hided

in the sentence in small doses and you find at second

view reading it twice or after a while during a talk.

The cherry on the pudding is when it is arranged together

some sense of humor, then its even a pleasure.

The best sarcasmus in my personal view is by the way

self sarcasmus, - very appreciated in Scandinavia-.

But that doesn't mean I don't have a butt in my pants!

[headsteady]

Good.

Thats clear then.

Good was very nice Thanks

Thats clear then was very nice too.

But I'am no wacko x 3!

But I'am not Don Quijote either!

But I understand now look post from Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:24 pm and Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:22 pm:

no comment

[sherpa 221 blue]

I have used OPEL Signalblau or GM signal blue for my 175 ccm Bultaco Sherpa.

The old GM Color code is 224 or L the blue color is slightly darker than RAL 5015.

You can also use RAL 5015, sky-blue IMHO it does match too.

Here is mine 175ccm Sherpa with fresh paint job:

If you are unsure go to your paint dealer or paint shop and ask him if you can loan a color chart,

I had never a problem getting one just to determine the right color. You can also take with you the side

stand or rocker to a paint dealer to determine the ri´ght color just there. Every good paint dealer or shop should have the basic color charts.

Color chart:

[headsteady]

Ei luulo ole tiedon v

[headsteady]

get a life

Ei luulo ole tiedon v

[headsteady]

still waiting for apology or at least " I may have got it wrong"?

Hello Mr. Dabster, why taking it so personal?

There is nothing to apology, or getting wrong for my part.

At first let us remember that any message that is posted here expresses the

personal view of the author.

Second as already stated from my personal view, the later headstead is an

improvement, look under post #11.

Third as mentioned in my personal view, the earlier headstead was difficult

to mount and disassemble and could be bended while mounting. Bending

a cold pressed steel component weaken it's structure. Look under post #11 too.

Forth it is fact that after the bankrupty of bultaco, there did not exist any executive board

or development division. The operation of the factoy was an offical social program by the

goverment for the reminding workers there. The production run was controlled by the

workers itself. There only exist an assembly, - no processing -, therefor there do not

exist any kind of part's book and the later Bultacos Sherpas that where assembled had

sometimes different technical equipments.

Fivth, if there is no dokumentation of the work that was done, (here the production run

of the later bikes), it is incorrect to give a statement as an evidence when there is

no prove.

I always appreciate the friendlyness, commen sense and the regardful acquaintance

in this forum, why are you so harsh, there is no need?

[headsteady]

FWIW my 340 also has the alloy one as does a couple of others that i know of. Dont get what the big deal is it's an easy enough item to make

One of the best answers in this thread IMHO, had first to figure out the meaning of FWIW is.

I do like to keep calm and to show confidence too and I dislike anything showing to be too keen to do well.

[headsteady]

The standard pressed steel bracket will break if the bike is ridden in any sort of reasonable competition, if it is not repaired the frame will begin to bend, the backbone bends upwards and the front downtube bends inwards and hairline cracks will start in the downtube at the bottom engine mount and at the junction of the top triangular gusset and the downtube. All the 199B bikes I have seen have had the pressed steel bracket, so I would really like to see a detailed photo of the late factory alloy one fitted with the tank off. When I have seen photos of some english bikes with them fitted I just assumed they were a comerfords modification.

Cheers Greg

Yep, totally right, to avoid any overstraining to the headstay it is necessary to mount the complete cylinderhead / headstay assambly together.

Bending the headstay down for getting the engine better out of the frame is a bad idea, (you will overstress the steelplate, which later will cause that it cracks). Just unscrew only the two fastenings of the cylinderhead for getting loose the headstay is also not recommended, you can "wrap" the head.

This is the problem of this kind of bracket.

BTW:

Why the headstay is not mounted to Mr. Michauds former Bultaco is a miracle to me.

[headsteady]

I haven't written / said that it is impossible that someone changed the design or the headstay.

But as I know there is no offical parts book and no offical photo around showing this bracket.

Nevertheless the aluminium bracket is an improvement, because you don't have to bend the steel one down or loose one

head nut + one head screw to get the headstay detached for more space to get f. ex. the engine removed.

Juast as a reminder: the bikes build after the bancrupty of Bultaco where somekind special because the executive board wasn't involved in the production.

BTW:

Some Bultaco riders don't even mount the headstay, (Here the T199B EX Fred Michaud):

[headsteady]

Read my post, the later 199b's.

I have read your post, there was NO other headstay mounted than the one made out of steel.

Maybe someone installed an other unit to Yours or one of the last reminding workers, - still employed in line with the welfare program that was initiated by the goverment-, that wrenched the last Bultocosbikes together from the remaining parts that where available in the factory was tired of searching and mounted what he found.

If you have any doubts, ask Orlando Colander, he is one of the last remaining importer of bultaco

motorcycles und parts and he is still in business too! -> www.orlandocalondersa.com

Otherewise show me the part number ... there is none I know

[headsteady]

they were pants, which is why the later 199b's had the ally one.

They are out of steel, look here, detail left, mounted right:

Just work fine?

[headsteady]

for my sherpa 350T 199A

Why do you need a stronger headstay?

What happend to the one you have, did it break or do you think it will break?

The standard one that came with the 199A is just fine IMHO.

[Bultaco tank]

There is NO real good clue to solve this problem with the standard

plastic tank, this was and has always has been a problem.

The vapors of the gas will always go throuw the plasic and therefor

bubbles wil occur to the paint of the tank and to the decals.

For the Bultaco you can opt to a fiberglass tank, that just look the

same like the original one, you get them in Spain. They are hand

made so be prepared to pay more than for a standard one, (around

twice as much, without paintjob.

Otherwise, you have to drain the tank after driving and leave the

tank cap off for storing, do this always after driving, don't store

any gas inside the normal tank then the decals and paint will hold

a little bit longer, this doesn't cure the problem.

In the US there is a company that can seal plastic the only and

proper way, this solution was posted in KTMTalk forum a while ago

but it isn't cheap either and the procedure is nothing for home

work because the chemicals are very dangerous and you won't get

them as a privateer.

It's a fluorination barrier treatment they do.

Here is the link if you interested in further information:

http://www.thecarycompany.com/containers/plastic_bottles/fluorination.html

BTW:

Happy new Year!

[hub seals]

??? => The numbers are printed on the bearings / seals take these numbers

If they got lost, ... this is the specification of the ball bearings for the rear hub: 2x 17x40x12mm

The front hub bearings are: 2x 12x32x10mm, take SKF INA, or whatever you get as an industrial standard.

To the seals, (Simmerringe in German, because they where invited by Mr. Simmer in Germany): 2x 17x32x10mm.

These bearings and oil seals you get nearly everywhere where they sell bearings and oil seals, nothing special.

[Crankshaft rebuild]

If the bearings are OK You can still use the old conrod,

BUT:

If you turn the conrod by hand and the bearings feel kind of harsh while moving (difficult to explain),

not smooth and without any feelable resistance, than it's time to exchange.

Damages to the bearings can emerge just because the engine had stood too long without being driven.

[forks]

Standard for the betor forks is 180 ccm of sae 30! each side of course.

Sprockets, front with 11 teeth is OK = standard, back, yes standard is 39 teeth.

You can get parts for clutch de- and reassambling thru Bultaco UK for example.

[Sherpa T 340 give Dell'Orto VHST a try, spec's jetting]

Don't know where or in which events you ride but "I Think" the flat slide carb is illegal in AHRMA events.

Alan

I think you will find they are using the PHBL dellorto as the flatslide is illegal for their competition. I have a PHBL on my 325 and it runs fantastic, 36 pilot and 116 main. My dellorto is a gasgas genuine spare part so you can run a gasgas throttle cable and throttle.Hope this helps.

Cheers Greg

Both of You are right, the VHST carb would be illegal by using with the Bultaco in a AHMRA events. I just looked up the rules here in Europe, (Germany), here it's the same. So this carb would work but it's not allowed to mount him, OK.

Actually I got my eyes to this model by a page of Todotrial where this model is shown exactly for classic bikes as I understood.

BTW: My understanding of Spanish is very very poor, here is the text:

"También los famosos Dell'Orto están ya disponibles en TT Shop. Ideales para restauraciones y preparaciones de clásicas, ya que hay modelos que se utilizaban en la época, como el PHBH 28 o el PHBL 25, con lo que superan las verificaciones técnicas de las competiciones de trial para clásicas. También está disponible el novedoso VHST 28 mm de compuerta plana, que mejora el rendimiento de los clásicos de compuerta redonda."

But maybe my enthusiasm has made me blind for the real facts.

[Sherpa T 340 give Dell'Orto VHST a try, spec's jetting]

The carburator of my Bultaco Sherpa T 350, model 199b is retty

worn out, the slider rattels around, a lot of whitchpee has left

its tracks inside the bowl and the small plastic filters are cracked.

Time to get a new carb.

I have seen some Bultaco Sherpas, 199A and 199B models in photos from

the Spanish Zona Trial and Todo Trial sites, fitted with

Dell'Orto VHST carbs. Has anyone did this here in the forum too and

have the spec's for jetting?

This is the italian atomizer in a picture:

Any recommandation or hints?

Oh yes, it is a carb with a flat slide!

[Bultaco Sherpa 340 sidecases]

Another option would be to get a manufacturing company to take a lot of points on a cordinate measuring machine and then have an Engineering college make a CAD model (there is a shell type tool in the CAD systems to make the model bigger to allow for shrinkage). They can then print a sand castable 3D model. Take to a sand casting company and make the casting. You still would have to have it machined. I'll take a look at my new 199B when it pick it up. Below is a pretty cool do it youself prototyping method. Might be more appropriate for like side panels or headlight plastic. Also we use some urathanes that have a much higher yeild strength than these materials (just keep your feet on the pegs and you wont have any problems!).

http://www.alumilite.com/HowTos/MoldingSteeringWheel.cfm

Sounds nice and great too, after my casting sidecases in aluminium medly.

I bought a pair of used sidecases the other original one's that are damaged i have now sended to a special company that will repair them, (very expensive).

But if You get replicas out of plastic and they work, (don't forget the kicker, the clutch and the gearing locations on both sides). I am surly one of the first that will buy a pair of you. Just send me an PM when got any good results.

[bultaco 350]

If You have a new carburator check the following parts:

- position of the needle

- same jet size

BTW cleaning the carburator:

works best with a ultra sonic bath, any good motorcycle shop should have this equipment,

only some