pschrauber

Ok here You are:

Hi Darrel, if You need photos and or other information/copy of documents, you can PN me a list or write it down here in your threat. I will then look around at home, if I may can help you.

Do you think so IMHO this is a classical win-win or no-win situation isn't it? But interesting and entertaining it was, no doubt.

Oh Yes, when it is announced before or unimpressed hided in the sentence in small doses and you find at second view reading it twice or after a while during a talk. The cherry on the pudding is when it is arranged together some sense of humor, then its even a pleasure. The best sarcasmus in my personal view is by the way self sarcasmus, - very appreciated in Scandinavia-. But that doesn't mean I don't have a butt in my pants!

Good was very nice Thanks Thats clear then was very nice too. But I'am no wacko x 3! But I'am not Don Quijote either! But I understand now look post from Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:24 pm and Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:22 pm: no comment

I have used OPEL Signalblau or GM signal blue for my 175 ccm Bultaco Sherpa. The old GM Color code is 224 or L the blue color is slightly darker than RAL 5015. You can also use RAL 5015, sky-blue IMHO it does match too. Here is mine 175ccm Sherpa with fresh paint job: If you are unsure go to your paint dealer or paint shop and ask him if you can loan a color chart, I had never a problem getting one just to determine the right color. You can also take with you the side stand or rocker to a paint dealer to determine the ri´ght color just there. Every good paint dealer or shop should have the basic color charts. Color chart:

Ei luulo ole tiedon v

Hello Mr. Dabster, why taking it so personal? There is nothing to apology, or getting wrong for my part. At first let us remember that any message that is posted here expresses the personal view of the author. Second as already stated from my personal view, the later headstead is an improvement, look under post #11. Third as mentioned in my personal view, the earlier headstead was difficult to mount and disassemble and could be bended while mounting. Bending a cold pressed steel component weaken it's structure. Look under post #11 too. Forth it is fact that after the bankrupty of bultaco, there did not exist any executive board or development division. The operation of the factoy was an offical social program by the goverment for the reminding workers there. The production run was controlled by the workers itself. There only exist an assembly, - no processing -, therefor there do not exist any kind of part's book and the later Bultacos Sherpas that where assembled had sometimes different technical equipments. Fivth, if there is no dokumentation of the work that was done, (here the production run of the later bikes), it is incorrect to give a statement as an evidence when there is no prove. I always appreciate the friendlyness, commen sense and the regardful acquaintance in this forum, why are you so harsh, there is no need?

One of the best answers in this thread IMHO, had first to figure out the meaning of FWIW is. I do like to keep calm and to show confidence too and I dislike anything showing to be too keen to do well.

Yep, totally right, to avoid any overstraining to the headstay it is necessary to mount the complete cylinderhead / headstay assambly together. Bending the headstay down for getting the engine better out of the frame is a bad idea, (you will overstress the steelplate, which later will cause that it cracks). Just unscrew only the two fastenings of the cylinderhead for getting loose the headstay is also not recommended, you can "wrap" the head. This is the problem of this kind of bracket. BTW: Why the headstay is not mounted to Mr. Michauds former Bultaco is a miracle to me.

I haven't written / said that it is impossible that someone changed the design or the headstay. But as I know there is no offical parts book and no offical photo around showing this bracket. Nevertheless the aluminium bracket is an improvement, because you don't have to bend the steel one down or loose one head nut + one head screw to get the headstay detached for more space to get f. ex. the engine removed. Juast as a reminder: the bikes build after the bancrupty of Bultaco where somekind special because the executive board wasn't involved in the production. BTW: Some Bultaco riders don't even mount the headstay, (Here the T199B EX Fred Michaud):

I have read your post, there was NO other headstay mounted than the one made out of steel. Maybe someone installed an other unit to Yours or one of the last reminding workers, - still employed in line with the welfare program that was initiated by the goverment-, that wrenched the last Bultocosbikes together from the remaining parts that where available in the factory was tired of searching and mounted what he found. If you have any doubts, ask Orlando Colander, he is one of the last remaining importer of bultaco motorcycles und parts and he is still in business too! -> www.orlandocalondersa.com Otherewise show me the part number ... there is none I know

They are out of steel, look here, detail left, mounted right: Just work fine?

Why do you need a stronger headstay? What happend to the one you have, did it break or do you think it will break? The standard one that came with the 199A is just fine IMHO.

There is NO real good clue to solve this problem with the standard plastic tank, this was and has always has been a problem. The vapors of the gas will always go throuw the plasic and therefor bubbles wil occur to the paint of the tank and to the decals. For the Bultaco you can opt to a fiberglass tank, that just look the same like the original one, you get them in Spain. They are hand made so be prepared to pay more than for a standard one, (around twice as much, without paintjob. Otherwise, you have to drain the tank after driving and leave the tank cap off for storing, do this always after driving, don't store any gas inside the normal tank then the decals and paint will hold a little bit longer, this doesn't cure the problem. In the US there is a company that can seal plastic the only and proper way, this solution was posted in KTMTalk forum a while ago but it isn't cheap either and the procedure is nothing for home work because the chemicals are very dangerous and you won't get them as a privateer. It's a fluorination barrier treatment they do. Here is the link if you interested in further information: http://www.thecarycompany.com/containers/plastic_bottles/fluorination.html BTW: Happy new Year!

??? => The numbers are printed on the bearings / seals take these numbers If they got lost, ... this is the specification of the ball bearings for the rear hub: 2x 17x40x12mm The front hub bearings are: 2x 12x32x10mm, take SKF INA, or whatever you get as an industrial standard. To the seals, (Simmerringe in German, because they where invited by Mr. Simmer in Germany): 2x 17x32x10mm. These bearings and oil seals you get nearly everywhere where they sell bearings and oil seals, nothing special.

If the bearings are OK You can still use the old conrod, BUT: If you turn the conrod by hand and the bearings feel kind of harsh while moving (difficult to explain), not smooth and without any feelable resistance, than it's time to exchange. Damages to the bearings can emerge just because the engine had stood too long without being driven.

Standard for the betor forks is 180 ccm of sae 30! each side of course. Sprockets, front with 11 teeth is OK = standard, back, yes standard is 39 teeth. You can get parts for clutch de- and reassambling thru Bultaco UK for example.

Both of You are right, the VHST carb would be illegal by using with the Bultaco in a AHMRA events. I just looked up the rules here in Europe, (Germany), here it's the same. So this carb would work but it's not allowed to mount him, OK. Actually I got my eyes to this model by a page of Todotrial where this model is shown exactly for classic bikes as I understood. BTW: My understanding of Spanish is very very poor, here is the text: "También los famosos Dell'Orto están ya disponibles en TT Shop. Ideales para restauraciones y preparaciones de clásicas, ya que hay modelos que se utilizaban en la época, como el PHBH 28 o el PHBL 25, con lo que superan las verificaciones técnicas de las competiciones de trial para clásicas. También está disponible el novedoso VHST 28 mm de compuerta plana, que mejora el rendimiento de los clásicos de compuerta redonda." But maybe my enthusiasm has made me blind for the real facts.

The carburator of my Bultaco Sherpa T 350, model 199b is retty worn out, the slider rattels around, a lot of whitchpee has left its tracks inside the bowl and the small plastic filters are cracked. Time to get a new carb. I have seen some Bultaco Sherpas, 199A and 199B models in photos from the Spanish Zona Trial and Todo Trial sites, fitted with Dell'Orto VHST carbs. Has anyone did this here in the forum too and have the spec's for jetting? This is the italian atomizer in a picture: Any recommandation or hints? Oh yes, it is a carb with a flat slide!

Sounds nice and great too, after my casting sidecases in aluminium medly. I bought a pair of used sidecases the other original one's that are damaged i have now sended to a special company that will repair them, (very expensive). But if You get replicas out of plastic and they work, (don't forget the kicker, the clutch and the gearing locations on both sides). I am surly one of the first that will buy a pair of you. Just send me an PM when got any good results.

If You have a new carburator check the following parts: - position of the needle - same jet size BTW cleaning the carburator: works best with a ultra sonic bath, any good motorcycle shop should have this equipment, only some

Thank You for Your posting, as already mentioned from You and me too the costs are to high for just 10 or 20 cases each side. The costs for a die cast are too high. So I tried a sand casting, which should have been done by a company that is specialiced in casting prototypes for the german car industry, Volkswagen and Audi, the quality is very good, they use a special aluminium alloy that is very strong also if not casted under pressure. Also the Volkswagen group cannot effort a diecast form for each protyp they need. But the problem is the shrinking of the metal when the case is casted and it cools down, (about 4% in each direction) The side cases have a tricky form and that makes it difficult to calculate and produce a positive form. These costs making a 3D model crop the model and then the milling of a casting mould for each side would cost around 4000