pschrauber

Yes that id right, Motoplat uses transistors and these do fail, sorry for my late reply but I wanted to make that sure as I have come to likewise problems to other ignitions.

No but I would suggest you let them be fabricated out of PA6 plastic which is fairly high resistant and too very slippery. That is what my workshop did to rebuild the forks of my bikes, Marzocchi, Betor and WhitePower.

I had 4 Italjets the second one was a Piuma and had Betors front and rear whitch worked fairly well. My Scott had Marzocchis but I gave them literary away because they where not any good, I bought White Power instead The next and last Italjet a Piuma MK Il had too Marzocchis front and rear and I wasn't pleased either with the rear shocks and tried to get them adjusted but had been told it was not possible even back then, so switched to something else. Australia might have got something different or there are substitutes possible.

Not possible, get French Fournals that were mounted to Philippe Berlatiers works Piuma if you want a period look, they still sell them but be aware about the price!

Schrader valves are not stock, may be you have a different set of fork caps mounted, maybe a different fork? A photo of the air valves and the fork assembly as a hole would be nice to determine what is mounted to the bike. With these high altitude I recommend a SmartCarb I have ridden the SWM in altitude from Zero up to 3200m (appr. 10,700 feet) above sea level and the stanard jetting is "only" good for the first 1500m, above that the engine runs rich above 2000m very rich and you have to change jets or a blue smoke cloud will follow together with very lame responsibility. The Dell'Orto PHBH if jetted right and using the right needle and slide! works perfect with rotary valve engine but only in limited hights, i don't think an OKO VM or Keihin would work better beside flat slide versions, here a Dell'Orto VHST is in 26mm also available and you can use the same jets! There is a clutch fix with bigger balls 13mm instead of 7mm and a longer internal clutch lever, I think Dagaracing in Italy is still selling them.

Hi BRT650, your avatar isn't moving anymore!

Mmmh having some "simple" points ignitions I highly recommend that at first you set the distance gap between the points at 0,4mm! My way to set the timing to my point ignition bikes: I use a Multimeter or a Motoplat beep tool and install an OT gauge, then sat the gauge to zero and mount the beeper, then measure the ignition according to the beep is according and note the measured distance before OT. Now I take the rotor off without changing the position or in case the position has changed I readjust the crank to the measurement I made and noted before and mark the position of the plate with a pencil, (I' am marking now the wrong or off position!) Now I place a degree scale to the crank shaft and mount a pointer and turn the crank until I have the right timing, now I have the degree in which direction I have to move the ignition plate, loosen it and move it the specified degree, fasten it again and remount the rotor and check the ignition timing again. This way you will get the most accurate timing a Bultaco sadly need, if timing is too much off the engine likes to run backwards or has a silly behavior in my experience, that can even accor if the gap of the points are not correct set up. Tools:

Had the honor, a photo of your set up would be nice.

Hi Yves, I made bushings out of PA6 plastic on booth sides as the flanges of the Dell'Orto are smaller. Now the specs: main jet: 110 idle jet: 45 needle: X2 clip: 3rd groove from top needle jet: AV 266 slide: No. 40 choke jet: 70 gas valve: 200 I live near sea level took 3rd groove to the needle so high up therefore small idle jet, that worked well for me.

Sounds good a photo would be nice, with the older clutch cover you need a clutch assembly with an mount to the case with an o-ring fitted. You get the cable from venhill or Mr. SWM.

Sorry I have a 28mm fitted to my Sherpa a 26mm would be in my personal view as stated but probably not so well expressed would the better. The best result I got with a SmartCarb btw. I have mounted a 25mm to my SWM TL.NW and it is a blast under all riding conditions: If you are looking for a great replacement this is the best option to any bike, i have mounted this kind of carb to two bikes already. I can provide you the spec's of the 28mm PHBH if you are interested in them as well.

The Bing is good, the Dell'Orto better but 28mm is a bit much, my Bultaco 199b got very powerfull with that size of carb with a 26mm PHBH the bike got much nicer and throttle friendlier. Both sides of the Dell'Orto are smaller in diamter then the bulky Bing so you have to make adapters (tubes rings) to mount the Dell'Orto. If you are very good in machining you might tune the Bing, fitting a brass slide with a flat underside and a rounded cut away of 60° also a rounded edge in the middle in visor line of the needle, then also replace the idle jet, polish the edges and chamfer the intake side in a more aerodynamic matter this will transform the carb to a better the Dell'Orto unit.

I think if you are interested especially especially in Bultaco you shoukd look up these books in general new or used: History de la Sherpa The Story, Francois Stauffacher ISBN: 84-607-3101-4 Bultaco Eine Leidenschaft für den Motorsport Francois Herreros ISBN German: 84-920080-0 ISBN Spanish: 84-920080-3-2 The German print is the newest version and includes extra material, charts and photos that where provided by Orlando Calonder, Bruno Wiest and Francois Herreros himself by translating and redesigning the book in German. Anyway the Bultacos are great bikes, goid ressources are too old magazines from that era.

Three possibilities come in my mind: The clutch plates might be stick together I woukd check the clutch and here if the push rod is installed adjusted right. Then a too thick gear oil which let the clutch slip. I only use HTX 740 now which gives best clutch action in my opinion. You might change to Elf HTX or ATF too. The third possibility is a not right working "Mitnehmer" (the ratchet thing is not actuated proberly which can be a too soft spring, too little tension on the spring or a worn ratchet. These things I would like to go through / determine in your situation.

Second grove counted from the top or second lowest / leanest adjusting of the needle is standard or normally a good start if you are on or near sea level. Then do some rides a half km or so at a bit up hill with 3/4 throttle if the engine doesn't sound lean, return slow or with clutch or without gear downhill. After that control the new or cleaned plug for coloration, brown is OK black or wet is to rich and whitish is to lean.

That is a pity and I hope it is not the lower stanchion as it was at a pair of forks I bought believibg it where "just" the inner stanchions. There is no other clue then pulling and may be putting one end into a vice and using an oil filter wrench to turn or move the rod until it comes out.

Yep that piston is done and sadly some metal was shaved away at least a new piston with next overbore and a matching rebore with honing to the cylinder. I would also replace upper piston pin and bearing cage. Then please check the lower bearing of the con-rod too, if it feels a bit rough replace the con-rod and the lower bearing and pin also. As you thrn have to split the engine fresh crank bearings and crank seals are also to replace. You might then examine the complete engine bearings and clutch. That was a very unfortunate happening. That is a very nice bike you have there, at least it is worth effort.

I would use shocks that can be fitted with the right springs upon your weight in combination with the weight of the bike. That is most importand, if you have the right static and dynamic sag most rear shocks will perform right, everything else is less important and less costly in set up. In my experience to find the right spring is the clue.

A very good page about SWM is the Belgian Tobec (Montebecane) site from Michael Debucquoy : http://www.motobecane-trialclub.be/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=25&Itemid=125 Very well sortet and tons of information.

Well my highest concerns are punches you might get in combination with stones or edges on artifical obstacles of which we have many, in cases of good grip and sharp stones and long courses I use: 10,15 PSI or 0,7 bar at the front and 7,25 PSI front 0,5 bar at the rear, In muddy cicumstanced I lower to 7, 25 PSI at the front and 5,8 PSI or 0,4 to the rear, that has worked so far very well.

I buy them where they show up and are of interest to me as all of them are classic bikes, I bought some of them in Italy, in the very south of Germany, in the middle of Germany, I also got them partly from France but too from the neighborhood. I don't care so much where they come from as long as (1) the bike has a good history, (2) has all legal papers and (3) is in good shape and (4) original. For the first bike I bought in Italy I really drove down over the Alpes 1.500 km! I have not done that again, now I only would in combination with sight seeing. (1) to (3) is very important you save a lot if all is in good shape, (4) depends on how it is probably changed if the bike is really modified to the better in terms of tuning and contemporary, then it would be an option, but only had that chance to get a real good one once.

Yes but Pennies we have lost now we use Cent. Anyway Trials is a great way to ride a motorcycle and that it is about weater it is in competition or training or hiking in the mountain area.

For anything related to Bultaco, spokes and nipples Orlando Calonder in Switzerland is the man that can help you: He produces spokes especialy for Bultaco, he was the Butaco main Importer for Europe (mainland) and Switzerland: https://www.orlandocalondersa.com/product-Speichen und Felgen I have orderes spokes for my 199b from him and too custom made spokes and nipples for a pre65 bike. He speaks German, French, Italian and Spanish, English is not so much his language, best communcation via phone.

I have two explanations for the shift in questions and answers in my personal opinion: 1. Modern trials riding has got more and more acrobatic, so less people can follow the sport. 2. Still People like trials riding and thus classic trials has grown, as there is not so much acrobatic involved. We have more classic trials events and classic trials rider then modern ones and I' am Talking about North Germany which is not the area where you can ride trials so easy due to the lack of ground modulation and stones. With more people riding old machinery there are more questions and answers how to repair and maintain this and that to old old machinery wehre maintaince books, prts, bla bla bla got lost. I personal like that, it's interesting, while instead for me looking expecial at X-Trails this is cool but getting to my personal taste ridiculous difficult and also dangerous, that was not trials when I startet trials riding, backthen it was just difficult and challangeing but no so dangerous… that has changed. Just my 2 Pence ...

Then the carb is different in set up the TR 34 MK i had the predecessor of the PHBH 26DS and not an idle nozzle instad an idle jet, Other differeneces: - different reeds (dual stage!) from 1988 on, - clutch was changed, and worked a bit better from 1988 on, - the frame rear was fromerly made out of steel, the MK II had Aluminium, - the MK I had three exhaust pieces mounted, the later MK II a bigger and quiter aluminium piece also a sidecover at that side, - the MK I had no disc protections mounted,, - the MK II had enhanced linkage levers made out of Aluminium, the MK I still had steel, - the MK had not fancy aluminium and titanium screws mounted and painted lower front Forks. I had the MK I too back in the days, that wsthe reason I bought the MK II later, here my MK I from 1987: