Yep that piston is done and sadly some metal was shaved away at least a new piston with next overbore and a matching rebore with honing to the cylinder.
I would also replace upper piston pin and bearing cage.
Then please check the lower bearing of the con-rod too, if it feels a bit rough replace the con-rod and the lower bearing and pin also.
As you thrn have to split the engine fresh crank bearings and crank seals are also to replace.
You might then examine the complete engine bearings and clutch.
That was a very unfortunate happening.
That is a very nice bike you have there, at least it is worth effort.
I would use shocks that can be fitted with the right springs upon your weight in combination with the weight of the bike.
That is most importand, if you have the right static and dynamic sag most rear shocks will perform right, everything else is less important
and less costly in set up. In my experience to find the right spring is the clue.
Well my highest concerns are punches you might get in combination with stones or edges on artifical obstacles of which we have many, in cases of good grip and sharp stones and long courses I use:
I buy them where they show up and are of interest to me as all of them are classic bikes, I bought some of them in Italy, in the very south of Germany, in the middle of Germany, I also got them partly from France but too from the neighborhood.
I don't care so much where they come from as long as (1) the bike has a good history, (2) has all legal papers and (3) is in good shape and (4) original.
For the first bike I bought in Italy I really drove down over the Alpes 1.500 km! I have not done that again, now I only would in combination with sight seeing.
(1) to (3) is very important you save a lot if all is in good shape, (4) depends on how it is probably changed if the bike is really modified to the better in terms of tuning and contemporary, then it would be an option, but only had that chance to get a real good one once.
I have orderes spokes for my 199b from him and too custom made spokes and nipples for a pre65 bike.
He speaks German, French, Italian and Spanish, English is not so much his language, best communcation via phone.
I have two explanations for the shift in questions and answers in my personal opinion:
1.
Modern trials riding has got more and more acrobatic, so less people can follow the sport.
2.
Still People like trials riding and thus classic trials has grown, as there is not so much acrobatic
involved.
We have more classic trials events and classic trials rider then modern ones and I' am Talking
about North Germany which is not the area where you can ride trials so easy due to the lack
of ground modulation and stones.
With more people riding old machinery there are more questions and answers how to repair
and maintain this and that to old old machinery wehre maintaince books, prts, bla bla bla got
lost.
I personal like that, it's interesting, while instead for me looking expecial at X-Trails this is cool
but getting to my personal taste ridiculous difficult and also dangerous, that was not trials when
I startet trials riding, backthen it was just difficult and challangeing but no so dangerous… that
has changed.
Then the carb is different in set up the TR 34 MK i had the predecessor of the PHBH 26DS and not an idle nozzle instad an idle jet,
Other differeneces:
- different reeds (dual stage!) from 1988 on,
- clutch was changed, and worked a bit better from 1988 on,
- the frame rear was fromerly made out of steel, the MK II had Aluminium,
- the MK I had three exhaust pieces mounted,
the later MK II a bigger and quiter aluminium piece also a sidecover at that side,
- the MK I had no disc protections mounted,,
- the MK II had enhanced linkage levers made out of Aluminium, the MK I still had steel,
- the MK had not fancy aluminium and titanium screws mounted and painted lower front Forks.
I had the MK I too back in the days, that wsthe reason I bought the MK II later, here my MK I from 1987:
Thank you she's a smoker at 80 to 1 mix and that is why I believe I have a bad crank seal. I've cleaned out the ex pipe and working on the mufflers. I drained the oil and got 280 cc's. Ofcourse I don't know what it is supposed to hold yet. I've prepared a mix of 70 to 1 with Maxima K2, 97 oct. Non ethanol. I'll try 50 to 1 because I am American and do use everything to excess. And unlike my younger days I believe in factory recommendations. She starts so easily. I hope I don't screw that up.
As I thought already much too little of gear oil, the manual for the Beta TR34 states 1 Liter (1000ml) of gear oil.
Look up the carb specs, a Dell'Orto PHBH 26 SD, with 26mm in diameter with an air screw, an an idle jet nozzle.
I recommend to replace all of the named items below, the silde is expensive but out of soft material, and it is very important to have the right cut away, also that the slide is not ratteling around as then he will destroy the needle and the needle valve.:
- slide No.: 60,
- needle: X 46, in 2nd position,
- choke jet: 75,
- idle nozzle: 55,
- needle jet/nozzle: 266 AV,
- main jet: 100,
- float: 9,5 gramm,
- gasoline valve: 200.
Americans always use too much of everything! Its a trials bike not a screamer.
Yes but be aware, the new fuel blend is not as good as the old one was, the two stroke oil should be useable for that blend too.
Back in the days there was Optima oil form Munich in Gernany and Bultaco sold it as Bultaco Two-Stroke Oil for 1:100 mixture
btw. for ALL Bultacos and it worked very well. Now still only some products meet the requirement / can be used for that lean mixture.
I personal run 1:66,7 = 75ml of oil to 5L = 5000ml of gasoline wich worked so far very good,
Beta recommended 1:50 for the TR 34 with standard two stroke oil but super gasoline.
Yep new fuel is a good idea and I woukd drain the carb too.
Also I would take a first look up how much gear oil there is still inside, may be too little.
To gear oil: ATF is good too also standard gear oil like SAE 10W/30, I use just HTX 740 to all bikes because it works well and gives the clutch in experience a good feeling.
The cylinder is coated pistons are a problem as con-rods thus a top job not cheap.
I buy all that stuff for exhausts here they are specialized one hardware to exhausts, depending the diameter you want from 20 to 100mm they can deliver what you need.
I believe it was 38mm, that fittet well for welding ... but I can now mix it up with other bikes...
Posted
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Edited by pschrauber Grammer and spelling issues due to automatic spell checker that was set on German
Kned metal with the same purpose as aluminium and good for temperatures above 300° celsius to smaller cracks works also fine, did that to some other cracked cases, the casing of my SWM had a dent which I filled with that stuff in 2013 and it is still there.
But I don't know if you can get it where you live, in case of difficulties I can sent you some.
Posted
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Edited by pschrauber Grammer and spelling issues due to automatic spell checker that was set on German
Best thing would be to reopen the existing and refresh the exhaust insulation and the clogged internal hole tube, then do the same with the rear exhaust where you can too replace the inner baffles against a bigger hole tube and insulation (likewise the Jumbo has).
Most effect has a redone mid exhaust then the rear.
I have done so to my Bultaco, which has the same system of mid and rear units with good effect.
I don't need for the SWM, as I have still NOS rear and mid section exhausts as spares...
Yep there is an other o-ring on the inside and both should seal the outer to the inner shaft, but when dirt comes in between the outer shaft o-ring and the shaft it is not a seal anymore, in very muddy conditions you can press acitently mud in between through your boots and then it starts dripping.
If you then use ATF or HTX oil which is thin there is quite an amount that will drip out from there.
With keeping that area clean you can avoid dripping.
What can also be the case is an outer shaft that is not round anymore which will happen if you overthighten the kickstart screw, then you need a new shaft which btw. is sold out in Europe.
It is often just dirt that got collected between gear lever and Kickstarter mechanism.
In case of a dripping shaft I take of both levers then too the oil Ring now clean the area very well and mount the o-ring again then the kick start lever then some grease and last not least the gear lever with a bit of distance to the o-ring.
That worked very well for my SWM, the grease protect the area against sand and rubbish for quite a while and makes cleaning up again very easy.
- you can give them a grinding to your wishes or needs,
- you can give them a straightening to your needs uptoo 1/500
- give them an overbiore to compensate wear in the lower shafts,
Did some extra straightening and some extra chrome to compensate wear to two used pair of forks and was very pleased, costs doesn't mit but accurately these pairs are now.
Did you polish the stanchion extremely well? They should never be like polished to mirror chrome instead have a silky shine.
Easiest thing to check if they have buildet up some tension between the fork legs which result in a sticky performances.
You might put the bike of a stand so the front wheel is still touching ground but bears no weight, then loosen all bolts hold the front wheel from the front with the legs while moving the bar a bit around then adjust to center, then tighten the wheel axle and drum mount, then first the triple clamps to the fork.
If they have once got "oval" in shape which can also easely done by overthighten the kick starter screw the outer shaft is toast in terms of oil tightness or always will be incontinent.
As mentioned I have nothing against using them, but to be informed in advance or to name the ressource would nice.
I am really thinking about asking Tomanscheck about the drawings, part listings, calculations and ressource listings, to let someone build a small batch of theses drives...
There are components in the Stator and in the coil unit so you have to repair / replace both if you want to use something else.
The repair is deilcate as you have to know where to cut the plastic open and not to destroy the platina or other units,
after the "Treatment" the components should be casted in with 2 compond glue which is btw. softer and will not harm
the units in my experience.
To control the thyristor in the ignition switching device, only a few milliamps of current are sufficient, which faulty diodes or resistors that are too high can somehow create under limit conditions. That's why you usually only notice such problems when the engine stops or it ignites three times per revolution! If you have a multimeter with a diode test, you can quickly check the forward voltage of the diodes in both directions
In the damped current direction, the voltage drop with a milliamp test current is, for example, 527 mV and if you swap the two test cables (red and black), the forward voltage of the other diode (without 30 Ohm resistor) is measured, the voltage drop (or the forward voltage the diode) should then be about 500 millivolts! However, the flux voltages given are only guidelines because they are also strongly temperature-dependent. If, however, one of the two flow directions does not give a reasonable measured value or an infinitely high flow voltage, the fault is clearly localized.
Damper rod jammed
in Bultaco
Posted
That is a pity and I hope it is not the lower stanchion as it was at a pair of forks I bought believibg it where "just" the inner stanchions.
There is no other clue then pulling and may be putting one end into a vice and using an oil filter wrench to turn or move the rod until it comes out.