pschrauber

As I thought already much too little of gear oil, the manual for the Beta TR34 states 1 Liter (1000ml) of gear oil. Look up the carb specs, a Dell'Orto PHBH 26 SD, with 26mm in diameter with an air screw, an an idle jet nozzle. I recommend to replace all of the named items below, the silde is expensive but out of soft material, and it is very important to have the right cut away, also that the slide is not ratteling around as then he will destroy the needle and the needle valve.: - slide No.: 60, - needle: X 46, in 2nd position, - choke jet: 75, - idle nozzle: 55, - needle jet/nozzle: 266 AV, - main jet: 100, - float: 9,5 gramm, - gasoline valve: 200.

Yes but be aware, the new fuel blend is not as good as the old one was, the two stroke oil should be useable for that blend too. Back in the days there was Optima oil form Munich in Gernany and Bultaco sold it as Bultaco Two-Stroke Oil for 1:100 mixture btw. for ALL Bultacos and it worked very well. Now still only some products meet the requirement / can be used for that lean mixture. I personal run 1:66,7 = 75ml of oil to 5L = 5000ml of gasoline wich worked so far very good, Beta recommended 1:50 for the TR 34 with standard two stroke oil but super gasoline.

Yep new fuel is a good idea and I woukd drain the carb too. Also I would take a first look up how much gear oil there is still inside, may be too little. To gear oil: ATF is good too also standard gear oil like SAE 10W/30, I use just HTX 740 to all bikes because it works well and gives the clutch in experience a good feeling. The cylinder is coated pistons are a problem as con-rods thus a top job not cheap.

I buy all that stuff for exhausts here they are specialized one hardware to exhausts, depending the diameter you want from 20 to 100mm they can deliver what you need. I believe it was 38mm, that fittet well for welding ... but I can now mix it up with other bikes... https://www.hild-tuning.de/auspuff-siebrohr/

Kned metal with the same purpose as aluminium and good for temperatures above 300° celsius to smaller cracks works also fine, did that to some other cracked cases, the casing of my SWM had a dent which I filled with that stuff in 2013 and it is still there. But I don't know if you can get it where you live, in case of difficulties I can sent you some.

Best thing would be to reopen the existing and refresh the exhaust insulation and the clogged internal hole tube, then do the same with the rear exhaust where you can too replace the inner baffles against a bigger hole tube and insulation (likewise the Jumbo has). Most effect has a redone mid exhaust then the rear. I have done so to my Bultaco, which has the same system of mid and rear units with good effect. I don't need for the SWM, as I have still NOS rear and mid section exhausts as spares...

Yep there is an other o-ring on the inside and both should seal the outer to the inner shaft, but when dirt comes in between the outer shaft o-ring and the shaft it is not a seal anymore, in very muddy conditions you can press acitently mud in between through your boots and then it starts dripping. If you then use ATF or HTX oil which is thin there is quite an amount that will drip out from there. With keeping that area clean you can avoid dripping. What can also be the case is an outer shaft that is not round anymore which will happen if you overthighten the kickstart screw, then you need a new shaft which btw. is sold out in Europe.

It is often just dirt that got collected between gear lever and Kickstarter mechanism. In case of a dripping shaft I take of both levers then too the oil Ring now clean the area very well and mount the o-ring again then the kick start lever then some grease and last not least the gear lever with a bit of distance to the o-ring. That worked very well for my SWM, the grease protect the area against sand and rubbish for quite a while and makes cleaning up again very easy.

He made two sets for the SWM and also one for an OSSA back then, the use of two wheel drives wasforbidden later so no more items where build.

If they fit perfect you can use custom made ones. To the intus that has been rebuild: - you can give them a grinding to your wishes or needs, - you can give them a straightening to your needs uptoo 1/500 - give them an overbiore to compensate wear in the lower shafts, Did some extra straightening and some extra chrome to compensate wear to two used pair of forks and was very pleased, costs doesn't mit but accurately these pairs are now.

Did you polish the stanchion extremely well? They should never be like polished to mirror chrome instead have a silky shine. Easiest thing to check if they have buildet up some tension between the fork legs which result in a sticky performances. You might put the bike of a stand so the front wheel is still touching ground but bears no weight, then loosen all bolts hold the front wheel from the front with the legs while moving the bar a bit around then adjust to center, then tighten the wheel axle and drum mount, then first the triple clamps to the fork. That might help.

If they have once got "oval" in shape which can also easely done by overthighten the kick starter screw the outer shaft is toast in terms of oil tightness or always will be incontinent. It is difficult now to source NOS replacements.

Yep RAL 3000 Feuerrot for Fantic RAL 3020 Verkehrsrot is for MAICO from the late 70's to early 80's and for some KTM frames of the 80's.

As mentioned I have nothing against using them, but to be informed in advance or to name the ressource would nice. I am really thinking about asking Tomanscheck about the drawings, part listings, calculations and ressource listings, to let someone build a small batch of theses drives...

There are components in the Stator and in the coil unit so you have to repair / replace both if you want to use something else. The repair is deilcate as you have to know where to cut the plastic open and not to destroy the platina or other units, after the "Treatment" the components should be casted in with 2 compond glue which is btw. softer and will not harm the units in my experience. To control the thyristor in the ignition switching device, only a few milliamps of current are sufficient, which faulty diodes or resistors that are too high can somehow create under limit conditions. That's why you usually only notice such problems when the engine stops or it ignites three times per revolution! If you have a multimeter with a diode test, you can quickly check the forward voltage of the diodes in both directions In the damped current direction, the voltage drop with a milliamp test current is, for example, 527 mV and if you swap the two test cables (red and black), the forward voltage of the other diode (without 30 Ohm resistor) is measured, the voltage drop (or the forward voltage the diode) should then be about 500 millivolts! However, the flux voltages given are only guidelines because they are also strongly temperature-dependent. If, however, one of the two flow directions does not give a reasonable measured value or an infinitely high flow voltage, the fault is clearly localized.

The Mitas is the "new name" of the Czech Barum, Barum tires never made for trials, this tire is made for Trail and Enduro riding.

The ignition is of the incast stator type, no sparks means that some of the incast electronic parts are toast or shot. The casting around the electronic devices build up pressure when the stator gets hot this will lead to damage and malfunction of the thyristors inside. What you have to do is cut the stator open and replace them, that is a delicate job, you might sent it to a company that does repairs to old electronic ignitions. I know a guy in Austria that can repair these ignitions and generators and he did so to the same ignition to my Beta TR 34. But you live in New Zealand ... to far away ...

Looks very nice indeed! Do you ride the bike now more often ... ?

Just 4 hours in 5 years, well that wasn't much then, how does the fuel look and smells like?

Don't heat it up, the swing arm comes with a rubber insert with an inner tube through that the swing arm axle is going through. That is how the swing arm was constructed on my 221. I recommend to pull the axle out by drilling a hole on the other end then inserting an m8 thread from there on it is easy.

It worked very well, but as mentioned the front wheel drive did only engage when you got slip at the rear end. All in all it was an advantage especially on slippery ground in wet and muddy or grounds with deep sand. The 2 wheel drive was later (in the next season already) forbidden in trials competition.

I can clearly see You captured my picture stack on Google Photos! Next time please ask in forehand. That is one of two bikes fitted with the front wheel drive. They are made in Germany and where used in our nationals in 1981/82 until the front wheel drive was forbidden! The drive has a slip clutch so if you loose traction at the rear wheel the front wheel drive will engage to keep wear low. Thus the big clutch like mechanism at the first chain and sprocket. The second was made for a guy in France. The momentum of the drive will give some momentum to the steering too when it engaged and transmitting force which you have to be adjusted and aware too. The drive was expensive around 3/4 of a complete bike. Helmut Tomaschel was the engineer behind the drive the other Helmut Körber was the driver. The long guy riding the bike is Krahnstöver testing the two wheel drive, Krahnstöver was an 11 times German trials champion and started our German Trialsport Magazin too.

Have you checked that you hear the noise of a float hitting the bottom of the carb or the idle screw if you (while the engine is out) suddenly let go a half open throttle? Sometimes the routing of the gas cable is a bit too thight and the outer cable has got disconnected from the seat at the carb, there should be a 2mm gap at least in the throttle too.

The Marzocchies are not bad forks they work quite good it is all about the wear and how straight the stanchions still are. Gilles Burgat started to replace the Marzochi front fork of his 1980/81 SWM because of two reasons: - the Betor fork at less stiction and - the Betor is a shorter in length and the Marzocchi forks a a bit longer too the yokes | triple clamps mount is a bit higher then to them of the Betor fork. Thus the front will be slightly lowerd which will put some extra weight to the front wheel. With more weight at the front the (in my experience in our sand sections) bad behavior of the SWM pushing the front wheel straight while doing a tight turn with slight throttle is then in my experience a bit eliminated, for our super techical and thight sections on loose ground very helpful.

How wide is the rim, as wider the rim is as better will be the footprint of the trials tire? 2,15 is a good width, anything less - as twinshockes and most air cooled monos had, is not as good in terms of traction. Twinshocks and air cooled monos had often just 1,85 as rim width.