The ignition is of the incast stator type, no sparks means that some of the incast electronic parts are toast or shot.
The casting around the electronic devices build up pressure when the stator gets hot this will lead to damage and malfunction of the thyristors inside.
What you have to do is cut the stator open and replace them, that is a delicate job, you might sent it to a company that does repairs to old electronic
ignitions. I know a guy in Austria that can repair these ignitions and generators and he did so to the same ignition to my Beta TR 34.
Don't heat it up, the swing arm comes with a rubber insert with an inner tube through that the swing arm axle is going through. That is how the swing arm was constructed on my 221.
I recommend to pull the axle out by drilling a hole on the other end then inserting an m8 thread from there on it is easy.
I can clearly see You captured my picture stack on Google Photos!
Next time please ask in forehand.
That is one of two bikes fitted with the front wheel drive. They are made in Germany and where used in our nationals in 1981/82 until the front wheel drive was forbidden!
The drive has a slip clutch so if you loose traction at the rear wheel the front wheel drive will engage to keep wear low.
Thus the big clutch like mechanism at the first chain and sprocket. The second was made for a guy in France.
The momentum of the drive will give some momentum to the steering too when it engaged and transmitting force which you have to be adjusted and aware too.
The drive was expensive around 3/4 of a complete bike. Helmut Tomaschel was the engineer behind the drive the other Helmut Körber was the driver.
The long guy riding the bike is Krahnstöver testing the two wheel drive, Krahnstöver was an 11 times German trials champion and started our German Trialsport Magazin too.
Have you checked that you hear the noise of a float hitting the bottom of the carb or the idle screw if you (while the engine is out) suddenly let go a half open throttle?
Sometimes the routing of the gas cable is a bit too thight and the outer cable has got disconnected from the seat at the carb,
there should be a 2mm gap at least in the throttle too.
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Edited by pschrauber Spelling and Sentence issues fixed
The Marzocchies are not bad forks they work quite good it is all about the wear and how straight the stanchions still are.
Gilles Burgat started to replace the Marzochi front fork of his 1980/81 SWM because of two reasons:
- the Betor fork at less stiction and
- the Betor is a shorter in length and the Marzocchi forks a a bit longer too the yokes | triple clamps mount is a bit higher then to them of the Betor fork.
Thus the front will be slightly lowerd which will put some extra weight to the front wheel.
With more weight at the front the (in my experience in our sand sections) bad behavior of the SWM pushing the front wheel
straight while doing a tight turn with slight throttle is then in my experience a bit eliminated, for our super techical and thight
sections on loose ground very helpful.
Double ignition is also possible and some still think that it will do something to the better,
and you still can get double ignition systems from VAPE in Czech for example.
A double iginition and plug for wone cylinder would make sense with big bore engines,
and there are some big V8 and V2 engines with nearly 1l cpacity in one cylinder,
But with the Bultaco you don't have that big diamater bore so you will not have any surplus
power, what you can archive is a longerr working ignition if the engine is running on the rich
side just to survive and not seizing.
Two stroke engines running much castor oil and super high rpm are prune to kill their plugs,
as plugs don't like too rich mixture and fail easily then, with a double plug you can archive a
longer life time in racing, so if one plug is failing the bike will still get a spark.
Bultaco Pursangs come into my mind, too Pursangs being used for Super Moto and Bultaco
Street Racer.
One for the start, one for running the engine,
That was common back then, so a hotter plug to start with and a colder for running, but this was more related to racing engines.
Back then you often had decomressors, (I btw. like them very much), and when these units failed with the time (where not tight anymore) most people mounted a second plug instead to mount a new one as it is not so easy anymore to get the right ones, (I dno't mention the chainsaw decompressor units instead these with cables and Hand Lever).
Update ! I've ordered a brand new dellorto carb with recommend jet settings from the factory I'll let you know if that sorts it this week thanks for all your help so far
Well, may be it's partly the carb and then most likely the jets and nozzels which where replaced by wrong elements or in wrong sizes.
A worn out carb can also be the case,especially the body which is too the cylinder and the slide, but that takes quite an effort or a wormn slide that has been used too long and rattled beside hiomself the cylinder too to oval shape ...
Can you tell us please your carb set up:
- slide number (on the bottom of the slide inprinted),
The upper coil which is for the ignition looks to have some corrosion, would be an explanation that it did cut out when getting hot.
Look up the wire lines which go up to the ignition here can be an issue too, to my Aprilia the wires where laid so bad the got burnt to the cylinder.
1,5 half turn out is much to the lean side, if you turn out the carb is adjusted leaner, if you turn in richer.
Please try out if the bike runs better with a different set up, when it is warm adjust the idle a bit higher, then slowly turn the screw in and out to the point where the engine uns with even higher rpm then before while idling. That is the perfect adjustment. You can then turn down the idle to normal set up you like.
Sounds interesting, and yes you can get advantages by using flat slide carbs.
One step further is the use of SmartCarbs or Lectrons which have an even bigger effect,
I have now mounted two SC, one on my Panda (first one) and due to the great experience
now also on my Smilla and I'am very pleased and will never ever turn back, best benefit is
that you don't have to adjust anything beside idle or if you want to play with engine behavior
with the rod screw to get crisper or modarate/slower power output.
Costs are a different thing, you can get two and a half brand new Dell'Ortos for one
SmartCarb without preparation to get the unit fit to your bike, on the other Hand not
to hassle with jets during the year or in different locations is a great Benefit.
The swing arm axle is the most negleted bearing togethter with the steereing steam.
While the steering steam is in a secure position the swing arm axle isn't an has to deal with water and dirt.
I personal recommend to maintain all bearings to swing arm axle, and rear suspension at least on bikes with bearings at the swing axle and especially to air cooled monos once a year (also very importand to Montesa Cota 242 and 330 twinshock models an the following models for example)*.
Which includes to clean the bearings, instrall new o-Rings and to apply new waterproof grease. That helps a lot to keep everything Sound.
* especially the bearings of older air cooled monos or mentioned Montesa Cota models have only limited seal here it is very imported to do the maintaince.
Oven with most heat you can adjust is a good way as aluminium is expanding three times as much as steel already 250 deg might leaving the item inside for at least half an hour to one hour will do the job.
Aluminium also transfers the heat so well this makes it so difficult to heat up just areas, if you heat up everything it works much better and will also not lead to any wraping!
Time period Right is a Marathon of asking Dealers if they have them still in the inventory or if they know someone that might still have them, that is they way I traced them so far.
Hey thanks for that, this bike originally came with lights and switch gear which I was going to try and source to put it back to original but they seam a little allusive to find.
I believe it looks like this.
I was told one just sold on eBay but I missed out
I thought they would have at least had to have a rear brake light but the wiring diagram doesn’t seam to show anything like that.
That thingy is difficult to trace but not impossible be prepared to pay around 100 - 150€ for that lights / flash lights / horn / engine stall combo!
Very period correct if colorful, there are new ones just in black available for the same price range!
I have them on my bikes too:
See on the Aprilia and the Montesa and on the Bultaco, (no near Image, the ones on the Montesa
and Aprilia where mounted from the beginning on the one for the Bultaco where back then mounted
by the German importer because we needes to have a different switch, the original Bultaco was back
then not sufficient):
Do it carefully without damaging the rubber or overstretching the inner enforcement, also if you have a tire workshop near by let it be done on a tire machine then as often as you want.
In my experience it does not change much, I did this a couple times back in the days, but experienced not much noticeable change in grip. I do believe that the most important knobbys are the ones at the sides which then dig in when they get load also the middle knobbies which do the same.and for this one sharp edge is better then two a bit rounded.
Thus I don't change anymore, I also have my bikes road registered thus they get checked periodically and you don't want to show up for checking road worthiness having tires mounted against the arrow of direction very bad idea ..
Mitas Tyres any good for clubman
in General Trials Talk
Posted
The Mitas is the "new name" of the Czech Barum, Barum tires never made for trials, this tire is made for Trail and Enduro riding.