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...and keep the autodecompressor to give the starter gears an easier time; the bike affected had the auto decompressor disconnected in favour of a lever on the bars for manual control.
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The shafts are on the same spacing (as kickstart gears are same teeth and PCD for TLR200 and 250). It looks like the 4th CS 26T pinion is a TLR200 item as is the 2nd gear CS 33T pinion judging by the the wear grooves halfway up the teeth on both 2nd gear pinions.
Now the search begins for the missing pinions to complete the cluster...
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Terry's contact details (including email) are under the "more..." section, top right of the banner on his website.
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OK. Thankyou. Someone pm'ed me and pointed me in the direction of a manual in French so presumably the same one.
4th gear on the TLR250 (ME07) should be CS=27T, MS=22T so it looks like somebody put a 26T TLR200 pinion on the CS, unless it is a legitimate pairing (but having scoured parts books and specs I can't find a 22/26 4th gear pairing anywhere)?
I am accustomed to the cub gearbox where adding the teeth on each of the MS and LS gear pairings = 45, so was a bit thrown by e.g. comparing 2nd gear on the TLR250 and the TLR200, 17/33 vs 16/33: same number of teeth on the CS pinion but they can't be the same pinion as the pitch circle diameter needs to be different.
I'll tidy up my Excel spreadsheet of all the ratios and part numbers and post it, or the tables anyway, ASAP.
Thankyou everybody for your help.
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I'll be interested to see what replies this thread gets, especially on the recommended angle(s) and how the angle is measured.
From talking to other people who have changed the rake angle I pass on the advice to make sure that whatever angle you do choose that you still have clearance between front mudguard and frame downtube. If you use mudguard risers for muddy conditions then check the clearance with the risers fitted.
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Thankyou for the XTREMEUSA link, some useful stuff there for my TLR200.
I've been calculating ratios for the gear cluster that came with the TLR250 ME07 cases and 17/33 is probably correct for 2nd as the ratio is 1.941 (as per the specification). Those pinions are on the way out anyway and will need to be replaced; I suspect they came from a different engine given their condition versus the rest.
What now puzzles me is the 26T Countershaft 4th gear as with 22T on the MS 4th the ratio is 1.182, and it should be 1.227. The RS250TA has the same ratios as the TLR250; 4th on the RS250TA is CS=27T, MS=22 (actually 20/22T as 3rd and 4th MS gears are a single sliding pinion) so the 26T CS 4th in my engine is not standard?
Can anybody help me with the TLR250 transmission parts page?
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Me too. I've about 70% of an ME07 engine bottom half in not great shape. I'm having a frustrating time trying to figure out what I've got and without a parts manual I'm not even sure all the gears are actually for an ME07 engine and what the commonality (if any) is with the TLR200 (MD09) engine and the other Honda singles in the same family (XR200 etc).
I've counted all the teeth on the gears and made a table for reference; when I feel it is definitive I will post it for info.
MS 3rd/4th is 20/22T but CS 4th is 26T which gives a 4th gear of 1.182, not 1.227 as per the specification. I suspect the CS 4th pinion is TLR200, in which case it is the wrong Pitch Circle Diameter?
Does anybody have a parts manual for an ME07 engine and would scan the transmission page for me? Anybody want to sell me a parts manual?
Thankyou in advance.
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TLR200 Engine Rebuild:
Gordon Farley Motorcycles, 16 Barrack Road, Guildford, Surrey, GU2 9ZR
Ask for Tim
Tel: 01483 538485
They helped out one of my fellow club members recently and did a quick turnaround (Kickstart idler gear had lost a tooth; so don't run TLRs without the KS stop on the frame...)
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Try this:
http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/23551-posting-images-tutorial/
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There was a very nice one at the Normandy Goodwin Shield Trial today:
I think the term is "bespoke".
and search for other Bantam posts; I put these on another Bantam thread and others have posted many images also:
http://s1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/Senor_Esteve/Bantams/
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Try this: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/forum-22/announcement-3-posting-photos/
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MZ forks are relatively easy to find, but then you will need yokes......and they are not Pre65....
Some Bantams here: http://s1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/Senor_Esteve/Bantams/
Sublime
to Drayton
to an exercise in how far you can go:
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And shortening the wheelbase.
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You can't complain about this one surely?
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Yes, a bit back to the future, but check out the oil tank cum mudguard...
And it's amazing how many TY Yamaha tanks have found second homes.
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Photos here:
http://s1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/Senor_Esteve/Talmag%20Trial%20Hungry%20Hill%20Aldershot%20January%202012/
Unfortunately it was not very bright under the trees and 1/40s at F2.8 doesn't really cut it for action shots; underexposed and blurred - but I included some anyway; its not everyday you see somebody showboating a Douglas....
NB I retain copyright, but PM me if you want an original 6Megapixel file; no charge, gratis.
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I went to spectate. Photos here:
http://s1083.photobucket.com/albums/j381/Senor_Esteve/Talmag%20Trial%20Hungry%20Hill%20Aldershot%20January%202012/
Unfortunately it was not very bright under the trees and 1/40s at F2.8 doesn't really cut it for action shots; underexposed and blurred - but I included some anyway; its not everyday you see somebody showboating a Douglas....
NB I retain copyright, But PM me if you want an original 6Megapixel file; no charge, gratis.
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Lovely. Is it for a Cub or a BSA engine?
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Thankyou for posting this. I couldn't say it better than one of the comments on YouTube: "Questo si che
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What spoke gauge do you want to use?
Check the hub will accept the gauge you want to use. For a trials application on Cubs, 10 gauge (3.2mm) is standard. Many of the Bantam hubs which look the same as the Cub hub will only take 12 Gauge (2.6mm) spokes.
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I've been using these boots for about 6 months now and I "oil" them after every trial (when the boot is clean and dry; be careful how you dry them, and in the winter don't let them freeze either....) with the Gaerne Boot Cream (comes in a tube). I also oiled them thoroughly before using them for the first time and use a soft tooth brush to work the cream into the stitching. If you can't find anything specifically about caring for Gaerne Balance boots google for leather+hiking+boot+care.
My observations so far are:
that the waterproof material used to seal the the instep/shin opening appears to be delicate and I take special care when closing the boot to make sure to tuck/fold the seal in so that the material is not exposed where it could get punctured/cut; I make adjustments to the fasteners in stages until I manage complete closure with the seal completely hidden under the flap and thus protected.
that I might be overdoing the oiling as the leather can get quite soft and is easily cut; I've noticed a few deep cuts but that might be a factor of riding (falling off) in the south; i.e. lots of flint
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Sorry its taken so long. It took a while to do this as accurately as I could with basic equipment.
HEALTH WARNING: measurements were made with by marking up a timber beam parallel to the ground using a set square to reference the axles relative to the beam. The front wheel was centred as well as possible (as the wheel turns the ends of the axle move forward/back relative to the rear axle). The bike was parked wheels on ground near vertical. I'd say my WB measurement is accurate +/- 2mm?
My TLR 200 has had no frame alterations (apart from any induced through use, although it was recently a low mileage import before conversion and I only ride the easy route), the fork stanchions are in the standard position in the yokes (the top approx 6mm reduced diameter of the stanchions are proud of the top of the yoke) and I am using slightly longer than standard rear shocks 400mm vs 390mm (TLR250 length = 15 3/4" ~400mm).
The WB with the rear wheel axle in the middle of the slot is 1334mm. The slot is 42mm long and the axle diameter is 12mm so the there is +/-15mm possible variation on the WB from 1319 to 1349 mm.
The TLR200 Swinging Arm is 455mm from pivot to mid position in the slot, so the front axle to pivot distance is ~879mm (sorry, i didn't measure this directly)
I have a TLR250 Swinging Arm as well and that is also 455mm from pivot to mid position in the slot. The slot is 45mm long and the axle is 15mm diameter so the adjustment range is the same, +/- 15mm from the mid position (or 30mm from front to back depending on how you want to look at it). As best as I can measure it appears that the distance from the pivot to the front of the slot is the same on the TLR200 and the TLR250 so there could be a small difference (1.5mm) in absolute travel on account of the different axle sizes.
I was using the stop for the chain adjuster as a datum while making measurements and on both the 200 and the 250 swinging arms and found a 2mm to 3mm difference relative to the pivot from RHS to LHS on both models; something to bear in mind if you are particular about wheel alignment (assuming the frame is straight.......)
I hope this helps.
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For TLR250 wheelbase: 1315mm/51.8" according to the spec. sheet http://www.honda-trials.com/_sgg/m8_1.htm see "Page 7". There is a manual for the TL125/TLR200 as well but the TLR200 appears to be the Reflex version (and quotes an identical wheelbase to the TLR250).
When I get a chance in the next couple of days I'll measure my stock TLR200 and provide the dimensions you asked for.
I'm always suprprised there isn't a +/- on spec. sheets as is this with the rear axle in the forward or aft position in the s/a slot? or mid way ?
By the same token when I see numbers for steering castor angle e.g. 24deg.30' for the TLR250, I ask myself is that with no sag, with sag, how much sag, sag at front? sag at rear? 12 stone rider? 14 stone rider? sitting or standing ? What is the horizontal reference plane on the bike?
Does anybody know if there is a convention for these measurements?
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Anybody know what clutch is under this case?
......seen at the 2011 Pre '65 Scottish.
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