gasgas249uk

The rate at boots wear out depends heavily upon your weight ! and how spikey your footrests are. I seem to tear them to pieces. I blame the footrests ha ha

Thanks for these daily updates Andy. For thousands of SSDT fans its great to feel on top of the action even if we havent managed to get up there to Scotland. JTG really need this win and i hope they manage it

Id get some new shocks rather than rebuilding yours. Rebuilt ones just dont seem to last as long as new ones and lose their gas/oil , but you might be lucky. The NJB shocks will look similar to yours , so thats a bonus! I suppose its all about whether your a die hard "must keep it original looking" like many people rightly are Speaking from experience , i bought some NJB shocks and was unhappy with them. They were to soft,bottomed out very easily , were thin and gave me the distinct impression they were badged up cheap imports with a cheap price in mind . They are too cheap for proper competition .The Trixshocks that i have seen look a bit Mickey mouse and flimsy. The shocks that you hear people praising are Rock shocks and Falcoln. Im sure there are others. Id recommend you stick to standard lengths otherwise you might make changes you dont like

Jose, What is really important is that you increase the size of the main jet . The 280 will have had a larger main jet than the 240. If you dont do this you run the risk of seizing your piston and wearing your big end bearing.These parts are very expensive, so dont risk it. It wont make a jot of difference that you are putting the right amount (or more)of two stroke oil in. Petrol cools the top end of the engine. Less petrol = more heat= seizure. Its important and the larger jet will give you more top end power. If you phone the sherco uk importer, Malcom Rathmell, im sure he will remember the jet size. Hes very helpful. Id be guessing , but the main jet will be about 5 - 10 sizes bigger.They are as cheap as chips on fleabay

All of the sealers im aware of are 2 pack epoxy fibreglass kits.The problem isn the epoxy , its the fact that they DO NOT stick to the inside of polythene petrol tanks. They'll look like they are sticking for a few months , then they'll peel off and bubble. There is no rough key inside the tank for it to stick to.I know i sound a bit pessimistic but its only because ive been round the block on this problem. The only solution is to fit the sealer and then drain down after EACH ride . It works for me.

Yep , i stumbled across this website 2 weeks ago. I ordered exhaust baffle pipe from them.Good site ,fast post and great value. trialsbits have got competition !

Ive got a 50 litre compressor and an impact wrench with a total new cost of about £225. I couldnt live without one now either. All the different air tools are so cheap as well , thanks to China. If your not using tools everyday, you dont need snap on. or posh makes. The cheaper ones do the job just as well , they just dont last as long under constant use.

Here are the pics of your SR JCM that you sent me Wayne It looks very nice mate Is that a price tag hanging off the cylinder i see ?

Heres one of those rare "im updating you after the repair posts" I complete the seal replacement yesterday and it transformed the bike letting it rev properly. The old seal had flattened off completely. Im quite surprised . Id have thought it would have been better being Yamaha. Spanish engine seals last 20 years. So its official the Spaniards make more reliable engines than the Japanese . Also... the metal bush that slips over the crank shaft and into the new crankshaft oil seal has no internal oil ring, meaning oil can slip between the crankshaft and the bush from the clutch area into the bottom end.Hmmmmmm. I suppose the tight is fairly tight and they dont smoke normally. My poor mate paid £38 for both seals. They were better quality than the usual cheap rubbish you get off tinternet. 2 hours to complete including using old gaskets again with sealer, which takes time but saves another £30. Pretty straight forward.Whizzy gun got clutch nut off. The nut holding the crankshaft gear on was 14mm and much harder to undo. Lots of Rag between the cogs did it.

You have to ride her of course in the Normandale championship and beat Ashley Hall and his flashy Beta (sorry Ash) , win and relive the glory days of JCM and bask in cases of champagne ,dolly girls fame and fortune !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Rose tinted glasses.....no not me You could be the next retro pin up. The world is crying out for one :hyper: Wheres my tablets

Your Gas Gas 280 clutch basket spins on the shaft using a needle roller bearing Ive recently discovered another mechanical reason why clutches drag ,but this is where the clutch baskets spin on a bush Sorting it transforms the clutch immediately, with no drag at all. When the clutch is pulled in , the clutch basket(thats driven by the crankshaft) stops transfering the power to the gear box by spinning on the shaft. In time, what happens is that the bronze bush that the basket sits on becomes partially seized on the shaft or within the clutch basket. As a result the clutch basket literally has difficulty spinning on the shaft , so the gearbox is never disengaged and is always stressed. There is always drive to the gearbox and the clutch basket never spins properly and never works properly. To establish if your bike has this problem, put your bike in 3rd gear and pull the clutch in with the engine OFF. Try pushing the bike along. If your bike doesnt push along smoothly, then this is a clutch drag problem and it can be significantly improved and the drag eliminated The tolerences where the bronze bush sits between the clutch basket and the shaft are very very tight. Ive found they can get tighter with age , not less, especially if the oil has not been changed regularly. To rectify this problem remove your clutch side casing and check for the play that it has on the shaft .If there is not even the slightest bit , then this is your problem. For anything to move, slack is required(even new bearings have some play). Remove the basket and using an 800 wet and dry paper with plenty on wd40 lubrication work on the bronze bush to introduce a small amount of slack. Your basket should slide onto the shaft smoothly, with you having to push.It might take you an hour of wet and dry work evenly around the bush to get the slack just right.Your only taking off tiny amounts. Reassemble with new ATF, light gear oil. This transformed the clutch on a number of my bikes from having to drag , to none at all. The above mod allows the bike to be reversed with engine at idle in gear. What more can you ask.Now crack on chaps Some bikes dont of course have the bronze bush and run on needle bearings. If this is the case , then this needs another solution.

Are you allowed to just change bike mid way through? I wouldnt have though so

How long is a piece of string ? There is no book on this.

Wayny baby, Yours are Marzocchi forks exactly the same as my Gassers. I just rebuilt mine and filled them with (if i can remember correctly) 300cc each. You can always drain a bit out using the bottom phillips screw if you put to much it. Ill get that other JCM review over to you. J

Thanks for that. I hadnt thought of "perforated pipe". Will stainless tack weld?

I heard a rumor Pol Tarres on the JTG had broken ribs in an indoor trial. Anyone know anything about this?

I bought an original 1986 Gas Gas Halley on tinternet. Matey said it was complete......but it wasnt, the silencer was missing I need to fabricate another one to match the original exactly. The body of the silencer will be hard anough to replicate the original . I also need to source some internal baffle pipe which i can run through the centre of the silencer. Does anyone know of a company or person selling any ? Is it available ? It would save me drilling hundreds of holes in a bit of pipe which would be pretty grim Ta

Its not just you. Your right. This problem encompasses the whole World of forums on tinternet. People create threads when theyve got a problem, but dont update afterwards as theyve got what they wanted and they dont give a s***e about anyone else learning anything. Very selfish, but what can you do

Jerry, Im guessing it'll be an 88 model with plastic tank?. These were Uk imported. The earlier ones werent. Please confirm. The earlier ones had fibreglass tanks. Ive got 3 86 models and have had to find parts for 2 i restored. I think lots of part are interchangable. Gas Gas uk have a few parts, theyre worth a call Manual http://www.gasgasmot...manuales/5.html New Pistons / cranks and mudguards are available in Spain. I know a man in Uk who has some engine parts, drop me a pm for his no. Go to WWW.RETROTRIALS.COM for more info.

Nice restoration job . Glad to see you didnt scrimp on fitting new tyres like so many do. I dont know much about Italjets , but is that a bultaco front end?

Well at least its not an engine split. Thats not to bad then . My typo above should have read that is does NOT rev cleanly- dooh

Ive a friend who runs a 2009 Scorpa 250 fitted with the Yamaha engine.Its a clean bike that doesnt look like its had much use. The problem is that It smokes a lot all of the time , low revs , high revs you name it. Im suspecting the crankcase oil seal on the right had deteriated.It does rev cleanly and is mixed on 80/1 silk sythetic. Is this a common problem on this engine? ***Can the seals be changed without an engine split ?*** Anything else peculiar to this engine look out for ? Ta in advance

The flywheel just shouldnt have any movement at all. If someones not fussy theyll put up with a bit of movement , but i wouldnt.It would be nagging me to sort it. If your crank pulls through the mains bearings by 2mm, then something is badly worn. The rumbling when you lean the bike is because one mains bearings is more knackered than the other. It needs rebuilding mate, new mains and seals may sort you out if you cross your fingers and toes - ha ha Your local bike dealer will be able to rebuild this fairly cheaply, or you may wish to have a go yourself Good luck

You should keep talk of banning any legitimate parts of our sport off forums. This thread title and topic provides more evidence that local pressure groups will use(if they find it) to force out trials events. The sport has enough problems with land shortages without anyone giving local and environmental groups the ammunition to use against us. Loose lips sink ships

http://www.bikesecure.co.uk/pages/alarm_mine.html They'll lay one when this baby goes off