gasgas249uk

Youll have to laquer that alloy with proper 2k stuff , it wont stay shiny for long .I regret not doing it with mine. Its on the to do list LOL. What did you do the polishing with , dolly on a drill or autosol ?

That is a seriously nice job youve done there. Way way better than a average. Were the things like the rear brake pedal painted of powder coated?

The trailer is superb , really high quality film making and HD to boot. Ive not seen SSDT footage of between the sections before . It'll definetely by on my Christmas list. We could be seeing the first glimpse of a MAJOR motorcycling video here.

Mr Roper certainly does know his stuff and is confident. Says he's seen it before which is more than any other elder I've spoken with. He recons to much alloy in rod caused corrosion.Trouble is he's some way from me. He said it would be a 95 percent pure mag rod or thereabouts. So gives me some clue as to the rod to buy. I have confidence in my , he just needs right rods.

Anode - na - not buying that one at the mo.Thanks for the advice though. It all goes into the melting pot The first load of welding is still perfect. Trouble is none can remember the rods he used any ideas on the rod code? It's more that 5 percent mag that's for sure

Thanks Copemech for the reply.Just thinking it through logically why it then that i have other mag casings with no paint on , that arent corroding?. Any advice on the grade of rod i should be using. Local welding shops dont know. I read an old forum saying az101 is the best to use but this is american grade and the shops ive contacted dont know the uk equivilent. Ive spoken with one coded welder locally and he doesnt deal with the stuff. One shop said they only sell 5356 , but they dont know if its suitable. Perhaps its just try again and paint in corrosion inhibitive primer and 2k top coat

Had the hub welded twice. The first weld lasted good but the 2nd weld is disintergrating into thin air . It was painted immediately after welding. The weld took well and its only thin so preheating perhaps isnt really needed ?Ive read that preheating the mag to 200 degrees in only needed on thick material. Ive never seen anything like this before and the welder who didnt seem ti understand it either .The weld is magnesium as ive done the vinegar test. My guess is that perhaps the wrong mix of mag / alloy rod was used OR it been contaminated. I find the contamination theory strange as the hub was taken back to the brake liner , so all was there was the steel. I dont want to keep having to get this welded so anyone have an answer as to why and a solution please. Ta in advance

Gutted Jim - Those kick starts used to snap all of the time back in the day. I snapped my 1992 one.Itll be a pity if you break it for spares , but i dont know what its kine when you dont make progress on a bike , and just want shot of it. If you do sell it , Ebay it. It'll fetcha good price there , most stuff does.

That's just one of the over flows that's broken. Try retarding the stator by turning it fully clockwise. It runs so it can't be much. Try the float valve. It may be running out of fuel.

Youll get a better answer to that question by asking at your local trial or bike shop , than here. This website is ace and run very strictly.Any criticism of manufacturers is frowned upon unless that criticism is 100% known to be true. After all, gossip on possible issues can help to stop sales when there may be no problem after all.Therefore people wont speak out loud and give you much of an answer unless they have the proof , and a bike so young hasn't really had much use.. I for one think the new OSSA is super duper, but me stable is full.

The Dellortos have 2 L shaped over flows , one on either side of the carb body . It may not be a problem , but id check it out with pics on the net. Its very important to know how well it was going when it was last running. Please describe If it was running well , then theres a fault with a component. If it was running badly , then its probably not set up right

Jim, I used to own a 92 280 Climber and got to know the engine well. The wiring now sounds to be correct. The stator / timing postion will alter how the bike runs BUT it will still run .Moving the stator anticlockwise will advance the ignition. You wouldnt do much wrong in putting it in the middle position. If it doesnt run well then , its something else. Clean the plug - set to 25 thou The rotary valve will usually be open when the piston is around TDC as im sure you know. Set the needle to the middle groove. Check you have the standard jets. Whats the colour of the plug like? Does it tick over ? What sort of splutter is it / when does it do it / at what revs? Its the standard carb , im sure. The needle and atomiser may be worn - you wont see it by eye - the needle just wont fit the atomiser it slides into. I had a Fantic 240 that was fully rebuilt that would tick over fine , but would splutter and cough at any revs above tick over. I changed these 2 parts from dellorto and it solved the problem Make sure your air box is getting the air it needs and not sealed around with tape , not too much oil - in fact it out to eliminate the chance that you are starving it of air. The plug will tell you all of this Hope this helps

I've placed this on the Fantic forum as I believe Fantics run motoplat ignition and you guys may be able help answer this question. The motoplat ignition on my mecatecno skywalker 326 cc 1991 is faulty.It's the squared off thick coated red resin coated type I cant imagine motoplat making a special ignition for mecatecno . Did motoplat make different stators for different bikes or are there just the two types , (internal or external flywheel)? Ie - did manufacturers just buy one or the other and bolt it on.? The internal flywheel were smaller reving higher , whilst the external were better for trials bike. . If there were only the two , the I can buy one from ebay and save money on getting mine rebuiltd Many thanks

Ive just had a chat with simply bearings co uk and they cant supply it or similar. Perhaps o rings are the best way forward , sounds easiest / logical.

The hub is fairly big, if i pulled the spindle out, it would come loose and id never see it again - thanks anyway

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Im fitting different wheels to this bike and the internal diameter of the old spacers are to small and they are to thin to be machined further The spindle thickness is 17mm Ive made up some new spacers that sleeve down at each end to 22mm. So i need nearing sizes 22 x 40 x 12 or 10/11/13 The simplest solution would be to find the right bearing which i thought i would be able to , but finding this size isnt proving easy. The o ring idea sounds simple if i still cant find the right bearings after a few days ------the show must go on , as they say LOL.

Both front and rear wheels on this Mecatecno im working on have spacers inside the mag hub which hold the bearings apart when the wheel in tightened up. You know the sort , its quite common. The spacers slot inside of the bearings and stay in place that way , other wise they would rattle around inside the hub. The wheel spindle is 17mm thick. The spacers that slot into the bearings increase the internal bore diameter to 21-22mm. I need bearings with this internal bore i cant seem to find them anywhere are quite a bit of searching. My only other option is not to slot the spacers into the bearings.........but how do i keep them in place????. Any ideas Here's hoping theres a simple remedy that im overlooking

Wayne, Thats very kind of you. Ive got a pillar drill with a vice on it and i see 17mm drill bits on ebay are just a fiver. I just hope it will drill straight enough Ive sent you a pm

Im in the middle of a restoration and have 2 questions that i need help with please. I want to plate alloy. I want a bright / chrome like / polished plating. Whats the brightest and blingest that is available to average Jo? I need steel tubing , 200mm long / inner 17mm / outer diameter 20mm. This is for internal hub wheel spacers. I'll need to machine a step in them to slip inside the bearings.Im sure you guys will have come across the type before. Where can i get this tubing from - any recommendations ? Thanks

Can't you glue it to the plastic? Nope , wont hold , when stretched for no creases Google it or Toolstation or Screwfix or Machine mart Yep , but that wont tell what will do the job Hi Ive recovered a couple of seats on my lads MX bike, the only thing that will drive the staples into a plastic base is a compressed air gun, its probaly cheaper to get an upholsterer to do it ( it would only take them 5 mins ) than to go out and buy a gun OXBOY Thanks - will go for the air gun - But which one???????? Sites and salesmen will sell you anything ! I need one that will do the job , not one i need to return and beg for an exchange or refund

Does anyone have any experience of any relly heavy duty stapler guns that may be suitable for upholstering a seat. Not mickey mouse - not focus , b and q diy jobs I need to firmy fix metal staples into plastic and ive tried 3 fairly good staplers and they are not up to the job. The staples bend and the is not enough power. Air stapler ? Electric stapler Any recommendations from experience?

Kramit, thanks for that . Like most of us , weve all been through , either owned or ridden loads of different trials bikes over the years. This Merlin is one of the best handling twinshocks ive ridden.When i got this over to the UK and rode it , it was a bonus that id handled so well...as i would have bought it anyway. The front end is so so light and great for flicking it about and picking it up without much effort over logs , roots or just changing direction. You have to watch this on sharp inclines. It grips very well as the pegs are so far back. Its also very easy to balance stationary. Ive moved the foot pegs down as far as i can get them , but ideally id like the pegs lower by another 1.5" - 2" . Failing that the bars may have to go higher. Im 6'1 - perhaps thats got something to do with it , ut it feels as though the pegs are slightly to high. Im just being fussy though

Cookie , thank for that photo.BRILLIANT. I had no idea that twinshock model made it over here to the UK. Interesting fact for 3 spoke wierdos - 1 - There is no footage onthe web of Skywalkers in action. 2- This is the only photo on the net of Skywalkers in action There must be more out there ?

The rim and spokes are alloy and are light as youd expect. The magnesium hub is very light .....there's more weight in the paint. LOL This is a favourite pic of mine Come on guys ----lets see your 3 spoked wheel Photos

I dont ride this pup enough to worry about chopping my legs off. This 1984 Merlin 350cc Gallach Replica has cast magnesium hubs with 6 cast alloy spokes per wheel. I find these unusual Spanish manufacturers really interesting. The factories made them out of passion rather than JUST for profit and broke the predicable mould. Sure they went bust but Merlin still continues in Gasgas and Mecatecno left some georgous bikes behind. Am working on a 1986 approx Mecatecno 326cc Dragonfly which is another bike with 3 spoke wheels , this time in flourescent orange with a matching frame. It should be a beut once done. Just rebuilt the engine and stripped the frame.