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Hi Motosinge, Youve got a nice project and deal there. Origionally it would have had an airbox .The part number for this is NC8900- 7 but im not aware of any dealers to order it from this side of Pluto. Try linking up to http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/merlinmotorcycles/ There are full manuals , parts books and reviews of your model here. I know that a few members have got your model and they may have a spare airbox . If you send them a post they may be able to help. Some owners fitted K and N type filters to their model such as the one on this piccie. You might be interested in seeing this 85 DG-350 gallach replica ive just bought. Theres a bit of work on this one as well. 85 DG-350 Gallach replica

Pic 2............ Louis Gallach...............respect

I have a slipping clutch on my fantic 240 pro and after some mods failed to stop it i have just bought some clutch plates. In the post came 6 cork and 6 metal plates . One of the cork plates had no teeth on the outer diameter unlike all of the others and not what you would expect. I only had 5 cork and 5 metal plates in mine when i pulled it apart. How many cork and how many metal plates should i have in there?. Whats this strange cork plate with no outer teeth - as i sure as hell dont have one in at the mo ?. Cheers

Try pistonbroke. They have a database of thousands of pistons and run the spec and measurements you need through thier box and see is they can come up with something. 01179412300 good luck

I thought i would post this snap i took of Bosis at the Italian World round 2 weeks ago. He is heavily respected over there and recieved a loud round of applause at this moment the photo was taken. He is held in really high regard over these , and over here come to think of it.

Fair enough PHB

Its good to see that an actual discussion (abeit tiny) is beginning to start regarding our Hero Dougie which is more then bland "Come on Dougie". There's a place for praise and a place for contructive feedback.Both should be aired when thought appropriate. Theres no point telling him everything rosy and wonderful when it gone off a bit. This in no way affects the undying support we will continue to give Dougie our no 1 . We all have an opinion , and all of them are valid. I fear that many users of this forum choose not to voice their opinions , for fear of being shot down in flames .....and and just follow the crowd - Dougies the best etc , Yawn yawn. Should Dougie win the outdoor Championship this year (I hope he does) then my observations were either acute or wrong. Should ,come the end of the year Dougie loose , then there's obviously a reason why. It certainly not lack of talent and skill.A little nudge ....might just help him .Anything said by all of us is to help him. The feedbacks better now , than at the end of the year. It almost unnatural not to want Dougie to win and we all support him , but lets discuss it sensibly and intelligently rather than simply following the crowd. As for PHB "ITS A SAD BRITISH MENTALITY TO ALWAYS PUT DOWN OUR STARS OF ANY SPORT WHEN THINGS AREN'T ALWAYS GOING FOR THEM ". Were you there?. Its an opinion and an observations from someone there and not putting him down.

This morning i got back from Lake Garda in northern Italy where my wife and i stayed for a few days whilst visiting the Italian World round. We left there at 0830am and rolled in at Surrey at 01.30am.So tired i cant sleep. Anyway , ive been to few world rounds recently including the Swiss and Andorran jobbies and found that the Italian round was by far the hardest and the best. You could go where you wanted to and was free as well as being well organised It was about 35% so incredibly hot and dry / dusty. The sections were very impressive unitlizing large banks and huge boulders and rocks. The video of section 8 on this site does not do this natural trial justice. It was not a man made trial like some have suggested on this site , it was 90% natural. I have a high tollerence for seeing a sections and thinking they can get around that , but i kept getting surprised. Section 9 was like a huge bank that kept going and going up , with little traction and large rocks it was a certain leap of faith in 3rd gear. Many asked for a 5 including Lampkin to try and gain a little time. Tony Bou cleaned it ...wow. These conditions did not suit being british and Lampking really , really struggled looking very ragged at times. Credit to him ...he is such a tryer and gives himself a pep talk before each section and puts in 100%, but you need more. In my opinion his fitness is not good enough and this left him suffering big time.He looks white before he enters sections on the 2nd lap and he has no bounce in his legs .in other words he look knackered. His skill will get him regular wins in cool climates but not against teenagers and 20 year olds in hot weather.He's got age to work against . I wish him every luck . Also , his Honda although beautiful , just doesnt seem to have the power and needs to be revved like S***t to get anywhere. I hope Dougie sorts this fitness issue out , he's about 80 % there now. We all want him to win this year. He also had some ace rides such as section 1 on lap 2 and others of course. The ace ride of the day was James Dabill , he impressed me no end and is definetely the new kid on the block. My old faves were there including Donato Miglio , Diego Bosis , Theiry Michaud , Louis Gallach (God) and Cheberto Renalles. Come on Dougie

I have a pair of Forma enduro boots. They are very good value and a strong and sturdy boot. The big problem with them is LACK OF SPARES BACK UP. The straps disconnect from the boot and fall off easily and my local dealer just cant get hold of them to replace them. So my boots are held together with gaffer tape

Bilco, I think you have got them the right way around. Try the casing off . Hopefully the noise will have gone. if it hasnt , you will be able to identify the area the noise is coming from for accurately.

Bilco, It still sounds to me as it is basket problem as its the only part that you are moving that could actually make this noise , short of taking load of the engine and allowing free play tapping. Are you sure the washer on the back of thr basket is the correct one and not too thick and that the bolts holding the plates in are not to long?. Look for scuffing inside the casing. Drain the oil and remove the casing. Run the bike for a few seconds with no casing on and see if the noise is still there and let us know ( wont do any harm).

There are 2 springs which control the return. The one i think you are talking about is inside the main gearbox (the other is under and behind the clutch)and as you look at it is hidden behind gear cogs. As i recall the spring should be revolved once and them slotted into place and no more. Terrific tension is not needed , just enough to lift the kick start back . If you try twisting it any more its difficult to slot into place. Its a difficult one to describe , but i hope this helps.

Hi, Whats sort of noise is it . Grinding ? , knocking ? Ive recently rebuilt one of the same so know a little about them. I had a slight grinding noise on mine when i assembled it and found out is was due to excessive welding on the inside of the casing. When you pull in the clutch , the push rod physically seperates the clutch plates and pushes the outside edge of the clutch further towards the inside of the casing. If the problem only occurs when the clutch is pulled in then it could be one of the following The plates are not sitting properly in the basket and as a result the bolts are not fully seated. Is there any welding on the inside of the casing. If there is then perhaps this needs grinding down a little. Perhaps the adjustment nut and bolt are out too much and are grinding on the inside of the casing. Whats you thoughts on these ?

Love the red banding on the rims. The trouble is......is thats its too precious good to ride. I've got the same problem with 2 of mine ...... they never go out . I can hear you all now shouting ......"You've got to ride them , there's no point having them otherwise". Let me tell any disbelievers. When you've nurtured these embrios from billets of alloy , cuddled them , kissed life into them , you dont want any nasty branches doing damage to your baby. I must get councelling

Will the coil from a 240 work well?. If so i have 2 that i dont need . One has a cylinder shaped body that looks origional and the other is black plastic and looks more modern. Drop me a pm if you interested , otherwise watch evilbay

I've got the standard NJB clubman shocks on my 240 and they work ace. I have them on the hardest setting for my 13 stone. If i was any heavier i would go for the professional NJB shocks. I havent seen the ones with bearings in the mounting holes , sounds good though

Duckwizard, From the Mecatecno Skywalker 326cc manual. The engine has 2 different oils.1 for the clutch and the other for the gearbox. Gearbox 250cc's of 90 grade oil filled from the large brass bolt on the top. Clutch 300cc's of 20 grade filled from the side clutch adjustment access. Your plug should do the job and mixture of 50/1 is fine and dandy.Semi / fully synthetic oil. The rear wheel is the same as early aircooled and watercooled green Gas Gas's. The hub shouldnt be too difficult to find. On the subject of rattling top ends these bikes have large pistons with large skirts on them. As the soft piston wears on the nickosil bore you get piston slap.This piston slap causes the skirts of the pistons to crack. They can snap off. These engines are raw and powerful and can sound a bit rattly. They dont run as smoothly as modern bikes and should have their pistons changed every 2 years or so with regular use. I have 4 Mecatecno Skywalker pistons with cracks on the skirts of the pistons and know of one bike where the piston eventually broke damaging the big end. I have just fitted a new piston and ring, big end , and small end to mine and it is quiet but no doubt it will get noisier as it gets older. I would keep an eye on it and perhaps check the clearances . The last thing you want is a component failure as bits are impossible to locate and have to fabricated and altered etc. Another thing to keep an eye out on is the flywheel nut. The flywheel does not sit very snuggly on the crankshaft . If the nut is loose thew flywheel will shake and snap the crankshaft. I have an old snapped crankshaft to prove ! The rear guard is a one off for the Skywalker. The Mecatecno Alevin has a similar rear guard but its smaller and just as impossible to locate. Perhaps get one moulded or adapt another. Ps.Dont worry about the rotary timing disc setting ....i've worked it out and its running ace. Good luck at the trial.

I use ATF as well.Clutch grips better now and doesnt drag either......perfick !! It works better with old clutches than the usual oil that many recommend .

Thanks for the replies. In the end i reduced the length of the tubular clutch spring spacers by 1mm making the springs compress more. This solved the problem with what appear to be new clutch plates. It also saved me dosh

Grib, This sounds like case of a weak fuel / air mixture at idle. Have you tried adjusting the idle mixture screw. Screw it in for weaker and out for richer. You need to richen it up. Is your air filter it top condition with oil on it. If its got holes or not sitting properly , this is likely to cause the problem. As 348 mate said this can be caused by crank case seals leaking , pulling air from the flywheel side or via the clutch side into the crank weakening the mixture. These seals dont last forever and may be your problem. Try these in order and good luck

Sammy's a top trials rider and has an excellent head for business.He has dedicated his life to trials and always does things as best he can. Lets face it quality sells for years and years but tatt doesnt. How he can be blamed in any way for levers breaking on a bike that falls over , i dont know. I'd be gutted as well, but its not the fault of the leversy or Sammy .Just dont drop it next time.

No, dont buy one.........leave them for me

Thanks to everyone who posted a reply.I'm going to go for a Mig and from your postings have made a list of the spec to go for. Cheers again.

I've had an arc welder for the past 10 years and have done a fair bit of welding inside and outside. The trouble is it only welds fairly thick steel and i seem to be constantly burning holes in steel and shelling out for aluminium welding. I've therefore decided to get a Mig and would like your advice on whether to get a Gas or Gasless Mig welder. I tend to do most of my welding inside but occasionally outside. I weld thick as well and thin alloy and steel. The weld of a Tig looks better , but i've been told you can get good flowing results on steel and aluminium with a Mig if you turn the power up. Is this right ? Im i best to go Gas or Gasless ?. What size (amps ) should i be looking at. Whats this best thickness of wire ?. I guess ill need seperate wire for aluminium wire and a seperate spool. Is this right ?. Whats other advice can you give me? Whats the advantage of a TIG? . Regards James

Lee, The trouble is it slips in third now. Perhaps i'll try a small washer on each of the clutch bolts and see if that improves things. Is that what you meant ? Or perhaps i'll sell it ....Hmmmmmmm