heavywrecker

Make it with Reynolds 531 and have it plated ?

Join the Facebook TLR200/250 page and ask Mike Pearce, who sells them?

Presumably you run higher pressures than for Trials when riding Enduro, hence increasing the rolling diameter of the rear tyre & raising the gearing/speed ??

Thanks Chaps, I'll give Colin a ring. Cheers!

Lots of folk rave about them, are there any UK based sellers ?? And yes I have looked :0))

Thanks Rabie, good link & clears up my confusion. In the instance I referred to in my OP the club in question has, as is allowed by AMCA, it's own rules... mmm Just goes to show it's MY responsibility to check eh? Cheers Bill

Maybe not well posted. If I mark myself 'strictly' i.e. ACU style in an AMCA trial I lose out to other riders scoring using their AMCA correct system. NOBODY TELLS YOU THIS STUFF !!!

Is there any difference between how ACU and AMCA trials mark Non-stop trials. I have read the non-stop rules of a AMCA club and they differ from the ACU's TSR22B definition. Without going into too much detail it more or less says a stop of more than 3 seconds is one mark lost. Footing once whilst stopped 2. My interpretation of TSR22B is if you stop, it's a five. So which is right, or are they different?? Cheers Bill

I had a Monty 349 that regularly overheated the condenser, moved it up under the tank on the advice of a leading twinshock parts supplier (who sell condensers!). End of problem. I have since done the same mod on a Triumph 3TA (for simplicity, distributors don't get hot) and also my TY175. None have failed and I don't have issues with the points burning/pitting. I also got rid of the unused coils on the mag on TY. Cheers Bill

Can anyone tell me if the fork legs should be dropped in the yokes, and if so, how many mm's??? On the Monty 349 I had it was recommended to drop them. It helped but it was still a beast ! On the TY175 that I still have I have dropped them. Also rather pitted, so eventually (£££) I will replace the TLR 35mm tubes, are these available anymore or do I need to contact Mr Allen ? Cheers Bill

Just a word of thanks to all the Sages on here for their advice & knowledge. I have fitted an RD350 inlet rubber to my TY 175 and it DOES make a difference. Put some more holes in the airbox too. There is an induction noise now, excellent ! Cheers !

No, I only ride club trials (AMCA) mainly with modern bikes, scrutinering there is none, but it is frowned upon by some in some circles I think.

Is the standard rear rim a WM2 or a WM3, mine looks so small. I think I think they had a 3.50 tyre out of the factory. I wonder if this would stop rear tyre roll with the IRC tubed 4.00x18 if I changed to an good valanced WM3 tubed type rim??? Or would I be better off running a tubeless WM3 rim and tubeless IRC with a tube? I know some will think it's cheating but can I go full tubeless rim and tyre? Cheers Bill

Well my standard TY exhaust brings smiles to the faces of my fellows at Triials, and I like that. Plus the WES messes up the bike apparently. I have rammed a small universal baffle in before the wadding and it made no difference, still sounds like a chainsaw :0)

Thanks. Tried a MTB wireless one, no good, waste of money, the electrics on the Trumpet interfere too much , works fine on my MTB though! Back to the drawing boaed, as I haven't exactly been inundated with answers LOL !

I'm in need of a speedo for my 3ta. Not interested in cheap Indian made copies. What I have is the square type speedo drive with the cable drive at the top looking at the rear hub from the right. . 1961 would have had a tick-tick -tick chrono, originals are terrible price! Any ideas on a little trials type? ratio would be 2:1 Cheers Bill

Just to update the thread I started, I've fitted a IRC tubed type tyre and it's great. Nice tight fit on the rim too. Along with a set of NJB expert shocks the TY is transformed!

Cool. Thanks again for the advice.

Owen In the past I have used an exhaust clamp (car type) round the fork bottom to clamp a torque arm from the brake plate to a fork leg when fitting a Honda TLS wheel to a Cossack 175... That was a real budget job, and still there 20 years later. Cheers Bill

Yes Woody, deadly serious. I'm such a useless rider I'll try anything! Lower unsprung weight is surely an advantage that mono's bring? I have an IRC tubeless on there and it comes off the rim at less than 4psi. That maybe an age problem though. Do you mean an IRC Tubed-type? I got the TY for very reasonable money & so don't mind the expense. I've read the X-Light can be prone to sidewall punctures on tubeless rims at low pressures so the jist of my question was will it be more prone to nip the tube perhaps? Thanks for the help Cheers Bill

I need a new rear tyre for my recently acquired TY175. Can I use a Michelin X Light... WITH an inner tube in it? Reduced unsprung weight being my objective you see, or am I going to get punctures constantly? ( I don't do much rocky stuff btw) Cheers Bill

I need a new rear tyre for my recently acquired TY175. Can I use a Michelin X Light with an inner tube in it? Reduced unsprung weight being my objective you see, or am I going to get punctures constantly? ( I don't do much rocky stuff btw) Cheers Bill

That is such a top tip, very many thanks! Cheers Bill

[quote has anyone tried changing the headstock angle ? Hi Blocky You can, as most do, raise the forks in the yokes by 6 to 10 mm. Quickens the steering a little. Keeping the drive chain as short as possible (with link n a half etc) helps shorten the plot of course. Incidentally I run a 10T front and 42T rear sprocket. Another thing I have done is fit 3 (!!!) rear WM2 rim locks, of the solid alloy Talon type, this stops all that torque ripping the valve out. Have run as low as 1.5psi without punctures. Jiggering around with the carb needle can make the bike much smoother off idle. I ended up getting some tiny shim washers ( for Bantam intented application) from Rex Caunt racing, to give finer adjustment than just moving the needle clip. I've gone to a number 3 slide too. Setting the timing is of course crucial before altering the carb settings. 3mm BTDC with a 0.3 to 0.45 mm points gap softens the power delivery... If thats what you want of course! Vary the points gap according to how aggressive you want the power. It is amazing how subtle the changes are. Finally get the condensor remounted under the tank so it stays cooler ( I personally believe the longer length of wire from points to condensor is what makes a difference). On the coil mount with a good earth. A Lucas DCB203C condensor has a nice bracket and ready attached wire. Cheers Bill

Changing the filter or changing the oil when cold would account for that 'loss'. Checking the oil when the engine has just been run would too.