stou

I'm also looking for the Kscan software. I tried to PM you lotus54 but it didn't worked. I get the "lotus54 cannot receive messages." message when I tried to PM you.

Here's my 2012 TR280i

I just look on my bike, from the switch: black to grey green to black/yellow My TR280 is a 2012.

Hi Thats_a_five, i know those connectors with a small blocking pin, but those on the Ossa doesn't seem to have one. The connector is like that: And the female pin are like this one: It look like there's something on the top and maybe it's only because I can't push hard enough. The wire is really soft and I tried to push the pi9n with a very small tool but nothing seem to clic. But when I plug the ECU, it look ok. So I will try it like that.

I finaly get it. I found a very small screw driver and was able to push harder and heard a clic. After, I used the needle to get it out. But when inserted in the 12 pin hole, I didn,t was able to really clic it in the hole. I hope it will hold enough. It didn't was push out when I install back the ECU, it look ok.

Did you guys had any problem to remove the wire from pin 32? I tried to push it from the hole in the connector with a big needle and it doesn't move. I don't want to broke the pin

Thanks!

I understand the pin modification, from pin 32 to 12, that's ok. But where do you connect the green and black wire from the switch? Can someone help me on that?

Found the problem! When I put back the clutch cover, I have to turn the kick start a half turn conter clockwise. I didn't saw it but the washer that goes on over the 18 release arms slip under the release arms when I did that. So the clutch didn't engaged properly. I immediately saw it when I took off the clutch cover. So now it's ok. But the new plates also drag... my dealer told me that Ossa told him the new plates are better and eliminate the draging... of course

This morning I replaced the clutch plates on my Tr280 for the new upgrade kit from Ossa. The old one was draging a lot even when the bike was at operating temperature. My dealer lent me the tool to align the spring. So I did the replacement this morning. I put oil on the plates when I put them in place, used the align tool and put everything back together. Everything went really easy. I started the bike to try it... when I shift, the bike started to roll. I put the brakes and it stalled. So I start again and let the engine warm for a while, same thing. I can't see whats wrong? Is there a specific side for the release arms?

I just changed the coolant in my 2012 TR280i. When I checked to be sure there was enough coolant, I noticed a grey color and some kind of chunk in it. So I decided to replace it. Here's what I removed. I replace it with Engine Ice!

There's not much of an indication in the user manual about the fork preload. Is it the 2 holed rings on the fork? In the book, they talk about a special tool. I suppose this is a tool that is made to be inserted in the holes of the top ring?

Yes, the drag was only when cold. But the clutch didn't dragging before the oil change, at least not as much as it was yesterday.

deonnatard, I did the oil change myself. The problem is that I wasn't sure what oil to used because the dealer told me something and I read something else in Ossa doc. canada280i, I have this pdf document, that's why I didn't like his idea of using automatic trans oil. I went for a ride yesterday and I found that the clutch was dragging when the bike was cold. I bought some Maxima 75w and I will change the oil again.

I use Motul racing 2T full synthetic at 110:1 and never fouled a plug. For the trans my dealer told me to use AFT automatic trans oil... I don't like that since they said synthetic gear oil 75W in the manual. He told me he use automatic trans oil in all Ossa, Gas Gas, Sherco, Beta. I'm really not sure about that

Ok, I'll try that! I'm located in Laval, near Montreal, Quebec.

You mean unlock it with a punch and a hammer? (sorry my english is not very good)

I bought the bike used last week. I did the first trial on the weekend and the bike run very good, I love it! But today I went to adjust the drive chain and... impossible to remove the T50 on the rear wheel. I have a 240 ft/lbs electric impact and I broke the first T50. I have another one and I tried at least 5 minute to remove it and it doesn't move. I even heated it, nothing to do to remove it. Do I need to use a stronger impact gun? What kind of impact gun did you used?