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Your right , mine is 13 years old now !!! But that's what he started on . Glenn

When I get a moment I'll measure my clutch arms for ya , But with a longer arm you do have to run a domino lever to get enough cable travel . And Chris at http://www.classictrial.co.uk/index.html Makes a very sturdy kit to do the update quite nicley. Glenn

Her A$$ is getting a little square in middle age now ! Merry Christmas

Find a Fantic FM330 50cc full size , It'll kick a$$ on all the modern mini's !!!

I've already got a shiro , And I like it , comfy fit , great price . Mike always comes up with great deals and service ...

I was replying to the whole subject ... And when I started riding trials in the dark ages , A bell stroker cap was the norm for head gear , no helmets required ... Which as a youngster at the time struck me as odd , we had to wear helmets in enduros back then and went just as quick on the loop between sections as we did in enduros ... And I will always wear a helmet when on ANY motorcycle , And stand by my statement that you get what you pay for ... Been there , Done that , got the scares to prove it ... And you are right , proper trials helmets are expensive , But a whole lot cheaper than being a vegetable or worse ... !!! Glenn

I spent 4 days in a coma after a bike crash ... Back when the Bell Moto 5 was brand new on the market ... If not for that helmet ,(which shattered into 5 peices ,but stayed attached to my head ) I would not be around today ... Helmets ... You get what you pay for ... Whats your brain worth ? Glenn Ps. and remember , we tend to enjoy riding on those hard pointy things called ROCKS !

HRC molybendium Disulfide paste in a small grease gun tube is available at honda dealers , 50,000psi dispersal properties and about as slippery as you can get ... But you still have to lube it after a wet ride and wash ... WATER is the universal solvent ... With proper care and feeding your linkage bits should last a long time , maybe as long as the bike ....

Totaly legal for NATC , Can't ride one in Ahrma , And most clubs will let you use it whether they have a twinshock class or not . And I hate to say it but parts are where you find them ... Classictrial.co.UK for trick bits and tech tips/OKO carbs Steve Goode in the UK for ign. coils and other bits. B&J racing in TN. for your suspension needs (WES fork springs and Falcon shocks) Mike @ the trials shop always comes up with some trick old Fantic stuff Keep the Fantics alive and well !!! Glenn

HHMMMM ... Maybe he's got a great coach/mentor ? Congrats Matt ! Keep your feet and your grades UP ! Glenn

It also seems that the fuel tank/pump setup must work well too .!

I run straight 40w oil in my sons ty80 with no clutch or shifting issues . And it runs fine on the same 70 to 1 ave gas and Amsoil Dominator synthetic premix I've been using in my fantic for a few years now . ( and I've forced the ty to take me up some long climbs with no problems pulling my extra weight ... Great little bikes !!!) And as FUF said above , read the label on the gear oil , NO trick slick stuff in the tranny !!! Or you'll be replacing the clutch discs before you know it ... Glenn

How true , how true ... your color scheme should have some JPS emblems , like my '72 Europa had ! Top notch bike !!! Glenn

If they ever do it , even at 50cc it'll be a blast to ride , Our 1980 FM330 50cc is a surprising bike , You can toss it around like a bycycle , And the 50cc doesn't hold you back much until you get to 3rd gear and/or bigger obstacles ... even with my lard @$$ on it ! Glenn

Jump on the TY ... Just because ....

Lucky you ...

I would like to think the design layout has been tested , Would be kinda embarrassing To have to redesign the front of the bike after it's earthshattering release at the show ...

Check your timing ...

Reminds me of where I grew up in CT. I'm jealous , nothing here in SC. but lowcountry mud ... Glenn

Had the same thought with the 3 ladys I met friday night ....! Glenn On a Serious note , Is that simpson helmet snell/dot approved ?

Fantastic !!! Makes me glad I ride my trusty old Fantic , (and that I'm not the only one that waits to crash good until there is a crowd to watch !) Glenn

I've owned a few corvairs over the years ,(favorite was a monza turbo spyder ...) and a Lotus Europa JPS... And TRUST me the lotus was a much more enthralling ride ! Even at about 1000lbs less weight and 50hp or so . It was like a trials bike (or a formula ford...) versus a cb360 in the dirt . And I never had much use for Ralph Either !!!! But then again a 911 can be controlled quite well at speed once you learn how to steer with your foot too ! but look how well a stock subaru with a front weight bias can go too , although awd ... Glenn And we are getting way off topic now ......................!

50 / 50 weight distribution is Ideal , but hard to acheive ... As the controlable ballest on our bikes (the rider) , if the bike is moving our weight is being driven down and back thru the footpegs most of the time . The bike is actually pushing our weight with the rear wheel . Under hard throttle application the rear suspension compresses and the front extends . Starting with a balanced bike makes controlling the inertia and ever changing geometry of the bike much easier . Then you can get into the details of where the footpeg and handlebar positions apply outside forces (our weight) to the chassis . And how the rear spring rate will make major changes to how the bike reacts ... To much technical info to go into deep detail here , But try to think in automotive chassis layout handling traits for a moment . Front engine rear wheel drive vs. front engine front wheel drive vs. mid engine rwd vs. rear engine rwd. The layouts that provide 50/50 weight dist. generally provide the best handling whether accelerating or decelerating and the best even wear patterns on brakes and tires . Because the center of gravity and the inertia of the vehicle is easier to control . But it all basically gets down to simple physics ... "for every action there is a equal and opposite reaction " Which in trials bikes kinda means the least effort you have to put into controlling the basic movement of the bike ,will require the least input to change its direction ... Maybe ? Something like that ... Just my morning ramblings !! Glenn

Stickers right side up ... Shock body at top , Although I don't think it mattered much on the little shocks ...?