bondy

nice bike mate

cheers mate love the 198A

i don't take my bikes to shows but intend to next year. not sure about clubs. i wouldn't use it on the road alot just in the summer months.

hello that fridge as not been full for ages the plan was to use it but has it turned out so good. am keeping it good. it's road registered in my name i have the V5 it was tax and mot when i bought it. but i need to take my bike tests. witch i will do 1 day got to much on at the moment. just need to fit speedo and horn i have the number plate.

hello woody i have got the address ill look for it or pm you the number.

good good the rest should be easy fingers crossed. what you doing with the wheels? sending them off to be respoked? did you get the offset before you cut the hubs out there rims? another good idea is to have your exhaust repacked makes it alot better just had mine done.

if there's no up and down and onld abit off side play that's ok. check the main crank bearings by removing both clutch weight and magneto to see if there's any movment in the crank shaft? if not good. there's a o ring and oil seal behind the clutch basket and o ring and oil seal behind the front sprocket. are they ok or do they need changing? the 1 behind the front sprocket is abit tricky to get out but easy just have to take your time. i use i flat ended screwdriver blunt 1 so not to damage anything. once it's half way out use a oil seal puller to pop it out behind that there's a metal top hat also a small o ring on the shaft but if the seal looks ok from the out side id leaft it. you can tell when there worn the metal shows throw the rubber are it leaks.

i have not got a clue mate all i know is he does the hubs. i spoke to hime a few times on the phone

hi woody i have the guys number i think he is out in the sticks some where i think i have the address ill look tomorrow. iv'e had 3 rear hubs done by him. it was last year i had the last 1 done so off the top off my head can't think i know i had to send the hub to another address because were he is out in no mans land. unless they been there before they can't find him. i will let you know woody ok.

well better to be checking now even tho you have the engine back in the frame. this is just what happend to me on a 199b i had. i had the barrel rebored new piston thought it was going to well. untill i checked the main crank bearings they was well worn i checked the crank movment. there was up and down movment. so had to take the engine out and strip it. it's worth checking if there's no movment then should be fine. then check the big end. if there's no up and down movment it's ok side side play is ok along as there'snot to much. it will only come back and bite you.

they should be both shinny chrome and look ok on the photos. even if there's slight pitting should be ok it's only when there badly pitted that they need relining. make sure you heat the hubs up with warm Air or heat gun before putting the wheel bearings in.

hi scot your a world away from were i got them done but if your in the uk i got them done by a nice man in birmingham uk. i had 3 x rear hubs done ive been lucky with the front pefect chrome. still not the best brakes but for what i use the bikes for there good enough.

sorted then some times the sleeve can come out easy and if your unlucky it can be stuck on. i once had 1 stuck on just couldn't get it off i ended up selling the bike not just because off that it needed rebuilding any way. you can't get a puller behind it so am sure some body has done it? if the engine is being rebuilt then may be easy but if it's like the later bikes with 2 R/H crank bearings there's a clip in the crank case that splits the 2 bearings. you have to heat the case and tap the inside 1 out then the other and if the sleeve is stuck on i don't know how you would do that. just hope it comes off easy. they get jammed on i think when the clutch weight is pushed are hammered on hard. or mybe just heat dose it not sure on that 1 and you don't want to be cutting it off because you can't buy them all tho if it came to it you could have 1 made it's only a bush with a recess on 1 end to take the o ring. easy let us know if it comes off????????????

they look well worn is there a groove on the other side? if so it should have a o ring in it. but with it being a older bike it may have a gasket? it was only the later modals that had the o ring to seal it. be care full when taking old seals out not to damage the alloy carrier. the seals go back in back to back so the open end faces out wards. hope this helps. have fun. oh also on the clutch side there should be a sleeve that goes on the shaft up to the crank bearing that needs to come out as there's a o ring behind it that will need replacing also. but again not 100% sure on the 159 am sure some body will tell you.

on the drain bolt on the clutch side there should be a fiber washer. i know this won't sort your problem out if the threads are strip if it was me id just have them all re taped or helicoiled or enver better corbon steel inserts. with correct lenth bolts. i would get this done proper unless your handy doing it yourself. ideal it needs to be a drill press to get the holes drilled 100% stright some fool did it to a barrel i once had put um in all over the place had to have all 4 done. and 1 off the rods had snaped off right at the bottom so had that done also. worth getting done propper tho if you do have it done.

also the Air filter can be replaced with a 199b Air filter this 1 is has the rubber boot fixed to it.

ok mate no probs speak latter.

join the club mate they don't get it do they. no but if it was a top hand bag or shoes they would. it took a coupel off gose the get the barrel looking good it;s not hard i did mine before i had the rebore done. but you can just tape the ends up stops any crap getting into the barrel or blow out with Air line

that was a good price mate. you can clean the engine yourself but it's a pain vapor blast is a nice smooth finish and even if you paint over it the finish is nice. but i kept the 2 crank halfs alloy the head alloy i just sprayed the barrel with pj1 satin matt black then buff the finns back to alloy. whatever you do don't have it sand blasted i had a barrel done once it destroyed the threads so much i had to have um all re taped sand blasting is ok for steel like the frame not for alloy it's to harsh.

you should be able to pick another cylinder up cheap. but if you have the broken bit or you could have a peice made the same shape and alloy welded on is it a fin on the outer edge? it won't make the engine run any hotter but i know you want it to look good. a friend i know rebuild the bottom end off mine i just did the rest. i can rebuild them i was just not sure about the crank am ok with the gearsall that stuff is easy but he did a top job he has been building them for years tho. so he knows he's stuff. am ok with most stuff but if am not sure better to get some 1 to do it for you works out cheaper in the long run if you bodge it only ends up costing more.

are you rebuilding the engine yourself?

been there done it mate and still doing it but not has much.

depends what needs doing to the engine i spend about £500 on parts just for the engine all new bearings and seals new con rod kit new piston rebore. con rod pressed in. not cheap but well worth the effort. i had the engin vapor blasted also.

it is a nice feeling when it's all done. i want to srt the other but other things have to come first. i have sort of started the other project had new bushes pressed in the S/Arm moden foot peg hangers welded on the wrong way not by me i must add. i will have to have um done again

no it did't take that long probley a few months but to be honest id already restored it once. and wasn't happy with it so i strip it back down and started again most off the jobs had already been done what takes time like the wheels ect ect. ive only done a hand full off these in the last 5 years but this 1 is the best so fare. i won't be doing my other 1 for some time.