bondy

for the wheels i used a local wheel builder in merseyside first i sent the rear hub off to be relined then bout a new rear rim front was good then he got me the spokes £52 a set then he charged me £50 a wheel for rebuild top job oh and he painted the hubs black. i was going to use central wheels in birmingham but found this place save on postage. if you have the proper set up it's not that hard to do i use to do push bike wheels back in the early 80s if your handy you could but if you want it spot on stright better letting a proper wheel builder do it don't cut the old spokes out untill you have the offset are better still take the full wheels to a local builder if poss.

this is my 198A

i bought the laser torque wrench for the head bolts.then though i may as well use it on the rest off the bike. i bought a draper 1 also as the laser didn't have the higher torque. any way you never get your money back am in the same boat iv'e just spent ££££££££££££££££ on my 198A

hello no all my bikes are the later modals. but i have a 198A frame that am going to restore and have it the same colour has the 159 i had to chop the side panel lugs off to get the 159 box to fit. i myself need to alloy spacers making for mine. the 2 small bars with the hole in the center is your fixing point. when you get your Air box back offer it up you will need to get the size from Air box to the bar on the frame the rear 1 will be longer than the front. you should be able to make them your self just buy some alloy bar off ebay. once you have the correct size drill a M6 hole throw the center mine has no holes in the top off the box so i will have to drill 2 holes. you may already have them? i would wait until you have put the engine in with the exhaust on before mounting the Air box. just to make sure it dose not touch the exhaust. i just bought some nylon bar and made some steerin stops i needed them a few mm longer for the new alloy tank i got from inmotion just cut to size drilled a hole in the center rounded them off on 1 side sorted workes a treat.

oh yes i for got your scottish

if so you will have to make 2 spacer with a M6 hole in the center. could you put photos on hear off the top off the frame? and the box you have. may be you have the spacers in the box off bits?

hello is your Air box like this 1?

you say the engines been bouncing about that would be of concern this is what the head steady is there for. i would check the frame to see if it's stright. before you rebuild it.

may be so. but they must have been strong to last 30 plus years all my cases on all my bikes are in good condtion.and all the threads are good. like i said above more than likely been over tightened by some 1 being heavy handed.

probley over tightening. if 3 have strip test the others before you put the case on that way you can helicoil the rest if needed. you don't need an expensive torque wrench. mine was only £40 laser.

my 340 has a steel bar welded on the under side off the head steady to make it stronger. to the rear engine mount there should not be any side play if you replace the bushes and spindle and mount you should be sorted. if it was me id just replace the lot wouldn;t bother trying to weld anything. that would be messy. the rear mount should be i good snug fit. iv'e never had a S/Arm spindle seized how bad is it? will it not budge? any chance off a photos.

hello i just set my clutch up on my 198A iv'e all ways just slightly turn the nuts so it makes a nice loop. never had a problem. has for the flywheel and the clutch basket and weight F/sprocket i have never torq these down just make sure there tight.the clutch basket and weight should have a locking star washer on there. the flywheel should have a flat washer and a spring loaded washer. hope this helps.

cheers guys am unsure at this point i need more info but thanks for yours.

hello guys need your help am thinking off buying a 08 scorpa TYZ 250 yamaha engine are they any good? also are parts easy to get hold off? what should i be lokking for and checking? the bike dose look mint but that dosan't mean anything. am not new to trials i have bultacos. but fancy something else. any advice would be good cheers.

hello joe nice to hear you enjoying your bultaco. nice photos

wise choice these bikes need lots off TLC

that's spot on treat um with great care. and when replacing with new ones they go back to back so the open end off the seals face out. they should just push in be abit hard may need to tap 1 against the other to seat them in i use a rubber hammer or hide hammer pay atention not to damage the seals. hope this helps. bondy

take care when your taking the old seals out the carriers there only alloy and can easy be damaged. i use a block off wood and tap them out with a drift or socket. there's also a o ring on each carrier it would be a good idea to change this to. on the clutch side behind the weight is your other carrier there's a bush on this side that butts up to the crank bearing that has a o ring behind it also change that to. some times there hard to get off some times there come off easy may need a puller to take it off. if like you say the seals have been on along time the o ring will need changing. is the bike running?

i do keep the shed tidy am having a bigger shed soon need more room.

there's 2 x seals on each side think there £12 x 4 plus you need 3 x o rings speak to inmotion they will put you right. the magneto has to come off as well as the timing plate and on the other side the clutch weight and basket as to come off to gain the seals easy job.

yes

more photos.

thanks trialsrfun i plan on doining 2 more to the same finish. but wont be for some time yet. my wallets empty after doing this 1

hello feetupfun.i ham well pleased with the way the tank turned out. to be honest i was going to have it painted red for a 198 or a 199 ive got but that project is for a latter date.glade you guys like my work cheers.

thanks scot the tank is alloy brand new from inmotion.