Heat gun or good hair dryer, put them on from the inside out but DON'T stretch them right to the outside of te rim other wise they will peel off from the edge! Leave 1mm gap from the outer rim. Overlap by 5mm as once heated and on they expand a lot!
When you get bubbles and you will, use a pin to prick a hole and heat gun and scrap the bubbles out. I used the opposite end of a toothbrush to push the sticker into the corners or creases in the rim!
Finally leave a 2 hour window to do both wheels, front is easier than the back!! Worth it though!!
ok thanks for the addvice ill give it ago .and let you know how i go cheers bondy
hello all ive just got some new s3 wheel stickers for my gas gas 250 pro as anybody fited these? they dont come with any intrutions there is a vidio on the net but i was wounldering if any off you guys have fited them. and is there any tips on how to put them on? i rang the shop up today for some addice he said put them on from the inside .and smooth down the edges using an air gun or airdryer allso he said you can over lap 2 or 3 mm just dont want to put the last strip on .and find out its to sort as you probely know there not cheap at
hi all as some of you know im new to gas gas bikes i have had bultacos witch i still do. anyway ive not had the bike that long think it was johns bike off hear i have the 250 pro 210 modal the oil witch is in is red .and i know john would have used a good oil from what the shop was telling me so to keep it well maintained witch off the putoline oil is red?
If you're going to start it once a week it will be fine, although I'd recommend actually leaving it running for a fair bit of time to warm up and ideally you should look to ride it around a little as this will heat all the engine / gearbox oil and fluids, keep the clutch working, the suspension moving and smooth and the tryes round (they'll probably deflate and go square on the section of tyre its sat on if left that long)
If you cant do that then I'd say at least pump the tyres up and if possible between starting it, wrap it up in an old blanket etc - show it some TLC while it sleeps
[/quote hi i keep it in the house were its nice .and dry ive just got a new stand to sit it on so this will keep the wheels off the ground cheers bondy
hi all im not sure if i put this no hear before. im new to the gas gas anyway the bike wont be used till next spring ive got ibt of fuel in the tank i was gonner run it about once a week would i be beter off draing the fuel off .and just leaving it?
Its difficult to explain, but easy to do. Place the middle of the turd into the fork of the tool, then push the tool complete with turd through the hole in the tyre until about 15 to 20mm of the two ends of the turd are left sticking out, then gently pull the tool back out leaving the turd behind.
I've found that you may have to open the fork on the tool a little before you use it to avoid pulling the turd back out of the tyre.
Once done you can cut off the excess
Hope this helps thanks i know what you mean so dose the turd harden in the hole? i wont need to take the wheel off then? allso one more quetion ive had the bike about five weeks when i got it home i put abit of fuel in ive only been round the garden the bike was serviced before i got it. will the fuel be ok for a wile im just gonner run it once a week ill only be using it in spring thanks all bondy
hi all just getting back to the puntcher in my rear tubless tyre dose anybody know how to use the repire kit with the tool.and the god turds? how do you use the tool? cheers bondy
Pump the tyre up first,leave it a while and check, just to make sure that it has a puncture. The tyre may have gone down just because you had too low a pressure in it. It does happen sometimes.
hi yes i did put some air in it it was low when i got the bike i will try again thanks bondy
its a brand new makuni carb so should it still need cleaning? like i said the fuel as been in for quit a wile i mean it dose run ok just dosant seem to pull like it did ill have to get some carb cleaner
hi all my bultaco as been sat for a wile since restoring it the petrol as been in the tank for roughly 6 0r 7 months she starts up ok normaly takes a few gose when shes not been run for a wile i had her runing today started up 3thd kick ticking over no probs had a ride round the garden shes dosent seem to be pulling as she did know ive not done anything to her would it be possibel that the petrol as gone stale? hence loss of power
hi guys im new to the gas gas ive just noticed the rear tyer is down it didnt have much air in it when i got it only took it round the garden so there must be somthing in the grass away i was told by john of hear whos bike it was that the rear tyer is tubless so daft question how do i fix it? is it like a car were you have to have a plug put in it? why im on hear ive never took the wheel off these bikes before only my bultaco so how do they come off? theres a chrome plate on the chain side can anybody help please
In my personal experience the best way I get them mounted is just cleanig the noth where the oil seal has to go in.
Some WD40 applied with a rag is all I use. Then I push them in. I use the chamfered steel ring that is inside the old oil seal as an guidance, (I feddeled away the rubber so it's just a mm or so narrower in diameter), and a socket that suits.
I believe that to much grase might get the assembly slippery and the chance that you accidently jam the the new oil seal will increase.ok guys thanks for the addvice
hi guys im gonner be puting new seal in my 199A fork legs ive just had them powder coated if i put the end in hot water to make the seals gone in easy will the paint be ok ?
May be you haven't posted any photos yet his would help a lot especially me as I sometimes have some difficulties understanding commen British speech.
There are three possibilities where oil from the cluth can get mixed up with the oil from gearbox:
As I understand you haven't mounted a seal or the old seal to the jack cover. This can be a problem because the primary chain will threw a lot of oil around expecially when changing direction on a sprocket.
I would just to be sure you have done it and mount a new one, a standard engine seal set covers all seals and O-rings for the engine.
Probably the shaft of the jack- mechanism might be weard out too, then oil can also go easier through this place. This is very uncommen in my experience so far. You have more problems with the small jack that can break the "guidances" then with wear at the shaft as shown here:
left jack- mechanism for a 199a OK, right jack mechanism 199b, broken, (there they are these little differences between the models).
This would still not explain the oil leaking on the secondary front sprocket. I believe You have still a problem there. The coloring of the garbox oil you have detected came probably from the unthight oil seal you have fixed now.
If there is only little loss and you don't observe an increase I would live with this issue. To determine how much oil you have to refill the easy way using a small rod with marks in mm will not work proper as the thread hole of the vent is direcly placed above the primary chain.
You will have to go through the circuitous method:
- fill up the right amount of cluth oil,
- then place the bike on a bike stand where the bike stands horizontal
- and drain the oil again.
- Messure up how many oil comes out, might be a little less now as the bike stands perfect horizontal.
- Refill the drained oil again.
Now go riding around for one hour.
When you returned:
- place the bike on the bike stand at the same place in the garage where you did the oil draining and refilling procedure befor. - Now wait until the engine has cooled down if not,
- and then drain the oil again and
- messure up how many comes out now.
The difference is what you loose per hour riding. Would be interesting to know how much.
ok ill try this thanks for your help i cant post photos on hear if you pm me i can send you photos to your email cheers bondy
yes thats the way ive put the disant spacer in same as the photo you sent me. and evrrything else is ok. just leaves the question as way im still geting oil coming out the final end drive of the sprocket ive changed evrry seal i can get at with out spliting the crank case and i dont want to do that if possibel.my other bultaco dosant do this its totaly dry round that area
sorry just to say i didnt put a new seal on the jack do you think this could be the problem as ive done evrrything else i can think off
Mmmh ... (color facing up or in, there is no color = Farbe in German applicated?) for a better explanation here a pic
how to mount the washer you might mentioned:
If O-Ring of the gear shaft is OK and you have placed a new seal to the jack- mechanism cover then it should be all OK.
yes thats the way ive put the disant spacer in same as the photo you sent me. and evrrything else is ok. just leaves the question as way im still geting oil coming out the final end drive of the sprocket ive changed evrry seal i can get at with out spliting the crank case and i dont want to do that if possibel.my other bultaco dosant do this its totaly dry round that area
??? as you did replace the oil seal on the clutch side as I understood. So this axis of different shafts should be OK
If you haven't made a mistake replacing the oil seal of the clutch shaft there should not get out any oil at #01.
How thight is the shaft of the gear lever, #02? this shaft goes through the gear-box and the clutch?
Last not least how thight is the shaft of the gear actuator or the cover #03?
hi just to clear somthing the distance spacer behind the clutch basket dose it slid in with the color facing out? or in like the front sproket side? allso the gear shaft is a tight fit with new o ring the bike runs well kicks up first or second time all gears ok. and clutch good just this one litel leak i cant find what it is
hi all a wile back i posted a thread asking addvice on a oil leak due to work.and other thing ive not had chance but today i had some time so off to the shed i whent id allready put a new clutch basket seal in witch only seemed to be in halfe way so i replaced it with a new one.and put it in proper for got to menton the ATF oil was geting in the gear box i only noticed this when i drained the gear oil off. and it was a redish colour so i investergated ive allso replaced the front sproket seals.and distant spacer.and final end seal ive unblocket the clutch vent with a pice of wire.and still to my disapointment its still got a slight leak from what looks like the final end drive it dosant seem like its coming out as much im at a loose end ive done evrrything i can think can anybody help? im hoping its not inside because i dont fancey spliting the motor thanks bondy
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ok thanks for the addvice ill give it ago .and let you know how i go cheers bondy