hi mate no its the other way about clockwise is leaner anticlock wise is ritcher. first bottom the air screw clockwise then turn it anticlock wise 3/4 this is the nomal seting for the bing carb hope this helps
I have been thinking of getting one for ages now and after watching a few trials and deciding I am no where near fit enough and that it looks too hard I decided to get one anyway.
The bike has been sitting for at least 15 years but I chucked some new fuel line and a fuel filter on it, a new plug and some fresh fuel and started kicking and kicking and phew kicking and sweating and it started - ran for a few seconds and died. Got my breath back and got the same.
I am pretty chuffed so far and now need to strip and clean the carb for the next step - float bowl full of treacle but oddly doesnt smell as nasty as old fuel sludge normally smells
The plan is to get it sorted mechanically and leave the cosmetics for this year until I know its sorted and so I dont spoil it when I keep falling off. The BIG problem is the forks are shot - obviously not an easy or cheap fix :-(
Anyway here she is ...
hi mate theres a place in luton that recrome forks they even pick them up and bring them back all nice and new cost me £167.00 not cheap i know so if your intrested go on line and put pitted forks in hope this helps
hi all ive fited a new eletronic ignition from bultaco uk. and im really at a loose end the thing is when i put the magneto on and tighten the nut up. the magneto locks up dosent do it when i put the old points back plate on. ive sent it back to bultaco uk. and they have tryed it they say theres nothing wrong with it. so i ask them to send it back. and im still having the same problem this is what i think is happening when i tighten the magneto nut up it looks to me as if its pushing on the back plat because the new ignition plate is much thicker than the old one or may be my magneto is to big the depth is about one and a half intches may be this is the problem can anybody help
Chris does the new electronic back plate fit it inside your flywheel ?????
hi keith yes it fits inside my magneto. but dosant go over the back plate witch i dont think it should do. the onley thing i can think of is that the back plate is to thick not leting the magneto go in far enough. and the other thing i cant get my head around is i know its not the woodruff key. and why is it locking up when i tighten the nut up. the crank shaft onley lets the magneto go so fare on my gess is the magneto is toutching the back plate not leting it go fare enough cant think why it locks up thow
the magneto fits on with out the woodroof key so the problem i gess is the woodroof key. cant be anything else
Chris you have answered your own question
hi keigh i tryd ringing you yesterday. im going on this trials holiday in 4 weeks so im trying to get me bult sorted. ive had it runing and she pulls ok been up and down the road a few times trouble is i have to put fuel down the head to get her going some times she dose kick up. ive sorted that leak out on the gear shaft ive got the ignition plate off got to send the eletronic on back monday to see if dave and pete at bultaco uk can throw any light on it. mean wile ive took the crank shat plate off and took the seals out they was abit worn so ill replace them why ive got the ignition off. if i dont have any joy with this eletronic ignition ill have to go with points and im not looking forward to it if i do. never done points and timing before. allthough the plate as been marked and theres a mark that it matches up with for the timing. i know this dosant mean that the timing is right but its a start.
try the key in the magneto does it fit.. if not take a file to the woodruff key then a little loctite in the slot and your up and running.. made my own woodruff keys fron steel bar in the past should nt take ten minutes..
hi yes the woodruff key fits in the magneto no trouble. and ive tryed puting the old ignition plate back on.and the magneto fits on with out any problems ive been on to bultaco uk he said send it back so he can try it on one of his bikes. may be just unlucky and got a bad one so ill send it monday and wait. and see what he says. i really dont think its the key i sat for hours trying it but to my disapointment gave up. ive tryd fiting the plate in the magneto it fits ok but i dont think it gose in far enough to take all the woodruff key. and its got a slight wobble from side to side. and allso when i try and tighten the nut up on the magneto it just locks the magneto up wont turn at all. thats way i think its not going in far enough my gess would be the plate has been milled to thick and thats why its not allowing the magneto to go in far enough. hope im right because ill look a fool if its not. bultaco uk said they sell loads. and never had this before but theres allways a first time i sopose.
The half round type of key can sometimes move inwards when you push the flywheel on, jamming the flywheel from going in fully.
You could check for burrs on the key and put a drop of loctite in the slot on the shaft.(clean it first).
Make sure the key is tapped fully down in the slot.
hi thanks for your advice. and i understand where your comming from about the woodroof key. i dont think its that. ive put the normal ignition plate back on and it goses on first time no problemes. i really think ive been unlucky and got a dogy one. it happend when i got a new swing arm convertion kit.and i got the wrong fiting kit with it. ti wasnt bultaco uks falt it was the place where they got it from. so it can happen
firstly you have to set the correct gap at the points, which is 0.35 to 0.45mm or 0.013 to 0.017 in old money. Bit fiddly this bit, as you only have the little window in the flywheel to work through, unless you have an old flywheel that you can take apart and just use the cam. i will assume that you dont have this luxury. you adjust the points through the window using 2 small screwdrivers and a set of feeler gauges set within the tolerences above. i find 0.40mm works for me. turn the flywheel by hand so that the points are fully open. check the gap. adust the gap by slightly undoing the larger of the 2 screws on the points. with another screwdriver turn the smaller screw to adjust the gap in the points. the feeler gauge should slightly drag on the face of the points. remove the feeler gauge still maintaining the points gap by holding the small screw with a screw driver. using another screwdriver do up the larger screw and recheck the points gap. most probably find the gap is incorrect, if its within the tolerences above ok, if not try adjusting again, will take a few stabs to get it right, stick with it as this needs to be bang on, to be able to set the timing. next thing is to set the timing which is 2.8mm to 3.00mm before top dead centre (BTDC) this is where the piston needs to be in the barrel when the points are closing. to get this measurement you will need a timing tool. these are cheap and can be got from bultaco uk or sammy millers. i have a micrometer timing tool which is a little more expensive but more accurate. (1) take out the spark plug and insert the timing tool finger tight. turn the flywheel by hand so that the piston pushes the plunger in the tool to furthest it will go before dropping down again. this is the top dead centre of the pistons stroke.(2) turn the flywheel counterclock wise slowly untill the plunger in the tool has dropped 2.8mm to 3.0mm this is when the points should be starting to seperate. to check this with any accuracy, you need to use an ammeter or a simple tester. you can make one by wiring a bulb and battery in series and connect the wires to the black and red wires coming out of the stator. really is worth making one of these or buying an ammeter. make sure the ammeter has an audible continuity facility and crocodile clips. assuming you have a wired bulb.(3) turn the flywheel so that the bulb just goes out. check the measurement on the plunger if its within the tolerences great, if not then the timing need to be adjusted. (4) take the flywheel off. slacken off the 3 screws holding the stator plate in position. (5) Turn the stator clockwise to advance the timing or couter clockwise to retard the timing. you only need to move it slightly, tighten the 3 screws. (6) replace the flywheel (make sure that the flywheel is fully on the shaft) i put the nut back on and do it up. Repeat 1 through to 3 to check that it is correct. If it is, great, tighten the fly wheel fully and remove the tool from the spark plug hole. if not correct then repeat the process. dont worry mate if you are gonna own a bully for a while you will get quite expert at this. But seriously, scour fleabay, auto jumbles for another flywheel that you can take the centre out of by drilling the rivets out. makes the whole process a piece of cake. Stick with it and hope that this helps, it works for me, my 198 starts within 3 kicks. you could do away with all this and go for an electronic ignition with the added bonus of a massive spark. i have re-read this a couple of times and think that i have listed everything. i am sure the more experienced bultaco guys in here may have a better process.
Good luck,
Tom,
hi tom thanks for your help. i have got the electronic ignition of bultaco uk. but im having problems puting the flywheel on. it gose on so far but its not going all the way. i think its the woodroof key not siding in proper. i rang bultaco uk yesterday thinking they give me the wrong ignition. but theres only one typ that they do so i must be doing somthing wrong. the magneto fits on with out the woodroof key so the problem i gess is the woodroof key. cant be anything else. bultaco uk said they sell loads and never had this problem before so it must be me. anyway im going to give it anougher go today and see how i get on.and if i cant get it on im going back to points. dont want to but not much choice if it wont fit. thats why i asked about seting points.and timing. thanks again tom
Without being there to see what the problem is I have no way to help you. Sounds like the woodruff key might be the problem but i have no idea without being able to see it
Steve
ok steve thanks. im going to have anougher go today. and see if i can put the magneto on i think it is the woodroof key. but not 100% sure trust me to be the one that as problems with it. when bultaco uk have never had this problem with anybody else
If you just got the new ignition then there is no better time than right now to replace the magneto side crank seal. When you remove the old flywheel and stator plate, underneath there is a plate with a seal in it that is held in with 6 screws. Remove this plate and tap out the old seal with the appropriate sized driver. Install the new seal into the plate using the same driver and reinstall onto the motor. and thats all there is to replacing crank seals. The right side or "pto" seal is a little more involved as you would have to remove the clutch assembly and final drive to gain access to the seal plate on that side. But for now just do the magneto side. New seals are dirt cheap and easy to come by at any automotive retailer that sells bearings. The seal size is 25x40x12. There is also an oring that should be replaced and its sizing is 50x2. On the clutch side the seal size is 32x47x12, it uses an o ring also and is the same size as previously mentioned.
I have installed several femsatronic and motoplat electronic ignitions over the years but I haven't done any of the new stuff like those available from pvl or electrex. That aside it should be relatively straight forward so long as you have an accurate way of determining TDC. The product itself should come with complete instructions for assembly and will tell you how to set them up. The one benefit of electronic is that the ignition curve will advance and retard with engine rpm whereas a points system will only remain constant which can cause pre ignition or detonation problems.
Spark plugs such as those available from NGK come pre gapped and shouldn't need adjustment. It doesn't hurt to check them but usually thgey are fine right out of the box. As far as which plug to use could be up for some debate. These days in my M199B I have been using a BP5ES NGK and it seems to work just fine. In my M159 I use a B7ES and it works fine. I don`t like using resistor style plugs although they seem to be all thats available now so we are kind of forced to use them. The only reason for their use is they cut down on radio interference. I would never use one on an original femsatronic ignition as it could cause damage to the system.
I have worked as a motorcycle mechanic for the last 20 years and in that time have worked on a lot of different bikes. bultacos are no different than anything else out there when it comes to making them run correctly. As said in my previous post Spark, fuel, and Compression are what it takes to make an engine run properly. Take your time to make sure each one of those things is correct. Remember that 2 strokes have primary and secondary compression. That means that you could do a top end compression check and it would show fine but not run. It could be the primary or crankcase compression that is bad causing it not to run. Thats why I mentioned replacing crank seals and the like. Make sure that you have spark and that it is firing when it is supposed to. Fuel, make sure the carb is clean and that fuel is flowing to it from the tank. If those 3 requirements are met then your bike has no reason not to run. Poor running or hard starting or no running at all will always be from no spark, or poorly timed spark, bad compression or no fuel. Nothing else. Good luck
Steve
hi steve ive put the new igniton plate on. but im having troubel puting the magneto on it will only go so far on. dont think its going on all the way. i dont no weather its just the woodfuff key or somthing else. its doing me head in been on to bultaco uk. and he cant understand why it wont go on. ive tryd puting the igniton plate in the magneto it fits ok just cant understand why it wont go on. if i take the woodroof key out it gose on ok im praying its just the woodroof key being a bitch. please can you put any light on it?
So if the engine only fires when fuel is put in through the spark plug hole then I would suspect that fuel isn't getting from the carb to the engine!!!! But thats the simple answer. I am willing to bet after reading your other posts that you likely have several simple problems that need to be addressed. 1st you mentioned that your carb is brand new from bultaco uk. Take it apart carefully and make sure that the jets and all passageways are clear. you also said that you have to mess with the inline fuel filter to get fuel to flow to the carb. Make sure the petcock in the tank is clean and flowing fuel properly. 2nd is air leaks. air can leak from the intake manifold, crank seals, center case and base gaskets. If you have an air leak it will make it hard to start. If the engine is sucking air then there won't be enough primary compression to suck fuel from the carb into the engine. 3rd is spark. The timing of the spark is very important. 2.5 to 2.7 mm before top dead center is the spec. The femsa points ignition is a good one and when setup correctly there is no reason to get an electronic. A new ignition won't make it start easier. Spark, fuel, compression. those 3 things are critical.
I would make sure 1st that the carb is clean and fuel is flowing. Next if you don't know the history of the bike replace the crank seals and as a matter of course replace the base gasket and intake manifold gasket. If you have spark then you have spark, don't worry about how fat and blue it may or may not be it doesn't matter. You have to only make sure that it is sparking at the right time. Set the point gap 1st and then check the the timing. If the timing is off then the stator plate will need to be moved. Clockwise advances the timing (fires sooner) counter clockwise retards it (fires later). Don't and I repeat don't adjust timing by adjusting points gap only adjust timing by moving the stator plate. If you aren't sure how to do it then have someone who does know do it. I'm sure bultaco uk could get you set up in an afternoon. Sometimes rather than throwing expensive parts like ignitions and such on the bike to try to maybe get it going better, your money is better spent paying an expert to do the work and get it going the way it should with the parts that are already there. less headaches in the longrun
Steve
hi steve thanks for your help. all top end gaskets have been renewed.ill check the carb. and check its all clear. how do i change the crank seals? do i have to split the engin? its got plenty compression. theres a fant blue spark. ive got the new igniton now so ill be ptting it on
hello all im geting a electronic igniton from bultaco uk. for my 199A anybody any idea if there easy to fit? allso whats the best spark plug. and what should the gap be? im having troubel starting her up. have to put fuel down the head.and she starts up and runs ok. just whants the tick over and air scerw ajusting please can anybody help.
Jets should be 125 Main, 40 Pilot, mixture screw should only be out about 3/4 of a turn. What is your needle position?
hi yes all jets or the right size got them of bultaco uk. as for the 3/4 turn on the air screw i did that as it says in the manual. for give me but when it comes to numbers im rubish. is this half a turn and a quarter turns out from dead bottom?
You dont need an in line filter there is a bajo filter on the carb, btw make sure thats clean.
check the floats are working right and they usually are no bother. it should start on choke with little or no throttle.
Is the timing right?
hi thanks for your addvice. i dont really know if the timing is right. ive never done timing on bultacos before. once ive got it started she pulls ok been up and down the close a few times. and she ticks over but i have been trying to get the tick over right. and the air screw. i was thinking of buying a TDC tool of bultaco uk. but dont want to mess about with the timing if i dont have to. i know at some point i will. whats the best way to ajust the timing. and what should it be?
hi all i can onely get my 199A started by puting fuel down the head. ive put new bing carb on witch came with wrong jets. now ive put the right jets in still same. once ive got her going she runs. the inlet pipe is on the right side. and ive got a inline fiter witch some times i have to mess about with to get the fuel going throw. but when ive took the plug of befor puting fuel down the head its been abit wet. ive set the air screw one and a half turns anti clock wise. and playd about with the tick over screw.ive only ajusted the throtel ajuster on the bars. and on top of the carb i need help please
hi mate no it dosent leak when standing. only when running. it dosent seem to be leaking as much. but dose still leak. i rang bultaco uk up.and they said i shouldnt have put 600ml in the gear box he says. it should only be 400ml ill have a look at what you said. and let you know how i get on. thanks for the addvice
hi again yes you was right the gear box breather hole was block. with paint from when id painted the engin. i didnt even know there was a breather. so thanks for that. with abit of luck it might be ok now cheers
The engine rear mounting bracket was originally alloy. This was a casting, with only limited ability to "nip" the rear of the engine, with the almost inevitable result that the engine would end up "loose" in this bracket.
If left unattended for long enough, the vibration/movement of the engine could wear the inner faces of the bracket and make the problem even worse - and then the head steady would probably break as well.
Hence the change to a STEEL bracket - a great improvement, in my opinion.
(On all the Bults I've owned with the cast bracket, I've replaced with steel, as the originals were worn beyond saving by "loose" engines.)
thank you all for clearing this. id allready replaced mount to the steel one. the only reason i asked was i sold the ally one on ebay. and the person that got it said it wouldnt fit his 199a thanks again
A couple of thoughts - if it's leaking just standing, it points to incorrect assembly on your part.
On the other hand, if it only leaks after running or riding, it may be pressurising because the g/box breather is blocked - particularly if you've overfilled it with oil.
If you look at the left hand crankcase just above the boss for the kickstart shaft, you should see a small drilled hole - make sure this is clear.
Hope this helps.
hi mate no it dosent leak when standing. only when running. it dosent seem to be leaking as much. but dose still leak. i rang bultaco uk up.and they said i shouldnt have put 600ml in the gear box he says. it should only be 400ml ill have a look at what you said. and let you know how i get on. thanks for the addvice
hi all ive got a 199A 350. year 1980 i took the engin out for rebuild. when i put the engin back in the frame. i replaced it with the metel one witch was ok. my question is the one i took out was alloy was this an original? are was it a mod?
bultaco bing carb
in Bultaco
Posted
hi mate no its the other way about clockwise is leaner anticlock wise is ritcher. first bottom the air screw clockwise then turn it anticlock wise 3/4 this is the nomal seting for the bing carb hope this helps