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Another option would be to get a manufacturing company to take a lot of points on a cordinate measuring machine and then have an Engineering college make a CAD model (there is a shell type tool in the CAD systems to make the model bigger to allow for shrinkage). They can then print a sand castable 3D model. Take to a sand casting company and make the casting. You still would have to have it machined. I'll take a look at my new 199B when it pick it up. Below is a pretty cool do it youself prototyping method. Might be more appropriate for like side panels or headlight plastic. Also we use some urathanes that have a much higher yeild strength than these materials (just keep your feet on the pegs and you wont have any problems!). http://www.alumilite.com/HowTos/MoldingSteeringWheel.cfm

The best way for aftermarket is to make a cad 3d model and make permenent mold castings. The tooling would cost about $12,000 US Dollars per side compared to $40,000 + per side. This method is the most cost effective method up to 10,000 parts. The permenent mold casting is gravity filled instead of forced injected with a plunger like a die casting. The perment mold would have much less porosity (high degree of pressure tightness) and higher strenth than a die casting or sand casting. Vacuum impregnation might not be required for the clutch cover. It's also possible to build a family tool for around $18,000 but I would not do that because the magneto cover would sell like hot cakes or they could mess up the mold. Cost would be under $20.00 each including machining and polishing. If you just needed one part you could do it in your garage like this. http://virtualindian.org/3techcasting.htm

I use the rear brake all the time to be super smooth in turns. I also use it to catch my balance. I broke my rear brake lever this year and it was my worst finish. The trials had a super steep and long down hill which the front brake does most of the work. If I would have hit a rock with the front wheel instant acceleration would have made it so I could never slow down. As it turned out I did ok on this section but it was the turns and balance catching that cost me all those extra points. Also don't forget the traction control technique. The rear brake can be applied on slippery / rooty side hills to smooth out the power delivery. You can also drag the rear brake over smaller slippery angle logs so the rear wheel doesn't slide. It's also kind of handy doing splatters or wheelies unless you like to land on your back.