insultaco

Sids Wheels, he'll post out to you. http://www.misterwhat.co.uk/company/2381851-sids-wheels-stafford

Hello all My problem repeated (and has been a constant problem since my original purchase), even with the new wear sleeve, the bike chewed the new O ring up and it started with all the symptoms of blown seals again. I stripped it down again (now able to do blind fold) and started re-assembly. While I was doing this, I noticed that the gaskets on the inside of the crank seal baskets were well used, so I contacted BultacoUK for a new pair. The bike had arrived with me 15 months ago as a none starter and no matter what I replaced, renovated, twiddled or buggered about with, I kept having this same old problem with knackered seals and the stuck wear sleeve described earlier in this thread. When I got the bike it had gaskets on the left and the right beneath the crank seal retainers and also had the two sets of O rings left and right. When I ordered the full gasket set I got new everything I needed for the complete engine with a couple of extra bits, as normal when you buy generic gasket kits and so on I went with the re-build and re-re-build and re-re-re-build The guys at Bultacouk are very knowledgable (like many of you people reading this I have to also state) and when I asked for the new gaskets described above as a one off order, they quite rightly explained that my model didn't have any! I THINK this is what has been my problem all along, I've been repeating the same mistake made by previous owner(s) who have twice sold it on as a none runner. The gap of around 1/4-1/2mm created by the gasket on the right hand side where the sleeve sits has been preventing a full seal when the wear sleeve is compressed around the inner O ring. I think the hot gasses from the crank bearings have been getting in to the O ring therefore welding it on to the crank with the melted rubber and this has been causing the constant blown seals and stuck wear sleeve. Time will tell, but this is a lesson on reading things like the manuals carefully and not taking anything you find for granted! If this is what my problem has been all along, then they have been a very expensive set of gaskets that I shouldn't have had on in the first place! Cheers Mick

Im with Jon V8, my lads TY80 pulls me (5'7"/90kg (190lbs(ish)) around with no problem and is sharp on the throttle. Standard timing, but on electronic ignition. The bikes been well used, but does have new piston and rings on used barrel and engine. Timimg and/or jetting has to be favorite from what I know. I've got the haynes manual if you need the numbers for standard jets, timing etc, send me a PM. Good luck! Mick

I'm looking at one of these, coupled to my existing pull jig should do the job,

I think the O ring must have been put on the outside of the wear sleeve by my mate who fitted them last time. Or they have migrated from inside the sleeve to the outside. Either way, I think they are the glue that is holding it together.

Hi and thanks for the replies! I've got gear pullers, but the inside of the bobbin (wear sleave..) has a rounded flange on the outer rim, meaning the pullers have nothing to snag, they just ride over the flange and pop off! I've tried applying some small heat and also pulling it with soft face grips, but it really is stuck fast and I don't want to over do the heating in case of really screwing it up. Has the wear sleeve got a smooth internal bore or is in a fixed rotation? Are there wear sleeves available anywhere? I think this may be the route cause of it eating crank seals. Thanks again Mick

Hi I have a M159 Bultaco 350 and have consulted both Haynes and Clymer manuals Please can anybody give me a tip for removing the following bobbin that has attached itself to the crank, presumably with the O ring that appears to have died inside it? This bobbin is not mentioned anywhere, but I assume is common as the steps in the crank at this end appear common to more than the 159. Also, please confirm: 1. Remove bobbin 2. Replace O ring (about an inch in diameter) 3. Replace seals in carrier 4. Replace bobbin 5. Replace weight and re-assemble the rest of it etc.. It's just No 1. I can't find any reference to and am struggling to remove! Cheers Mick

Hi I purchased the Electrex system for my Sherpa M159, it failed at the first meeting Electrex did not respond either to my e-mail or my phone calls until I got REALLY stroppy with them . Electrex do not understand customer service at any level and will insist they have never had any problems in the past, which is a lie when all you have to do is read this thread and many others. I personally know of at least two other people in my area alone who have had problems with them and their systems. Once they accepted to take the system back (at my expense!!!) they returned it TWO WEEKS LATER claiming there was nothing wrong with it. I fitted the system back on with the original plug etc and it started 3rd kick. Its a miracle! They gave no apology and have never acknowledged the inconvenience or costs incurred by me. The instructions are vague and confusing and make you question what you thought you knew, then they don't respond to your questions seeking qualification. I will never buy an electrex system again. I just purchased a Powerdynamo system from Germany for my lads TY80B and it was very simple to fit and the instructions were very clear even with the odd unusual translation. Avoid electrex, there are other systems out there that do not get the feedback Electrex do on this and other forums, so why take the chance of being messed about. The other systems are reportedly better, simpler and easier with some genuine service behind them (I've used BultacoUK many times and fitted a Powerdynamo system as above) This is my humble view anyway! Mick

Hi I just purchased a new electronic ignition system from Powerdynamo.biz it has just been made available on the market and I purchased the first one they made. It comes with everything from the stator plate to the fly wheel in the kit. I fitted it in around 30 mins, you need to have a TDC tool and a gear puller (the original puller is different), but apart from that it really was VERY simple to fit. You can have it with or without the lighting kit for around

Sorted!!!! Thankyou all, it was me being a dumb t@#t. I'd taken the main jet and needle from the original and forgotten to pop out the needle jet. As soon as this was swapped over it started and ran like a proper motorbike, although I had to sort out the snagged throttle cable as well (which it had ran with all weekend and was apparently compensating for the jetting.. ), it was a wonder it ran at all. It needs a good blow out down the lane to clear the cobwebs and a final little fiddle with the tickover and mixture screw and it will be as good as I need it to be and better than I can ever expect to master.

Woody is right from my (very) limited experience, the Electrex system on mine has not needed touching to be fair, i just followed the instructions and when strobed it was bang on where it needed to be, but the 'mare of working out degrees v's BTDC is not something I like spending my days getting my head around. I believe the BultacoUK option is the real "plug and play" solution between the two. From what I've seen/heard/learnt over the past week, the BultacoUK option is the one I'd go for if I were doing it again, as it was I saved less than

Gentlemen, once again your help is in-valuable and has givn me much to consider. I'm going to check the cut-away to check it's the same as original and also put the original needle jet in the new carb, because I think this may be the one that came with it from Spain. The needle is now the original, but I've had both on using 2nd notch from bottom and 3rd from bottom (no improvement). If that fails, then I'm going to try every notch on the needle to see if that works. The float height is bang on standard. The ignition is a brand new Electrex and the timing is strobed to 2.9mm BTDC which is mid-point of what this Forum and BultacUK state as correct. The intake has a high flow filter with new filter oil applied as per the bottle and was also my first thought, but according to BultacoUK it should not make that much difference to the standard high flow filter, it just saves the air box. If all else fails I'm going to drill out the original pilot and get it richer if it kills me. It's just a bit too fluttery at the bottom end at the moment and its not what I need when i'm mid wobble anyway Its the last little frustration on getting my project singing again after being purchased as a none starter in December. It had previously stood for at least 3 years (more probably). Anyway, its still a lot easier to get around on than the Greeves TFS I've had on loan for the past 15 months. I'll report back with the final solution. Thanks again Mick

Thanks Woody. Another problem resolved by the good people of Trials central. Mick

Im not sure what they have, they are quiet, so I haven't gone near them. As far as i know they are standard, but given the self tapper/bolt scenario, I have no real idea. Mick

My M159 has a self tapper at the front of the l/h swingarm tube and a bolt in the front r/h side, should they be grease nipples? Do you know what size? Are they needed to lube the bushes? Thanks Mick

Are there any photos of this mod' anywhere? I've got the cables etc from BultacoUK, but I can't find any good images of the mod's required on the L/H frame to take the new cable to the original hub. Also, the R/H peg hanger has what appears to be a locating hole, but the new pedle has too great a diameter to locate through it, even if I had a post of the correct size. I saw a bike at the show with this mod', but couldn't relocate it for a photograph at the end of the day. Are there photos on this site or another site with up close detail? Thanks Mick

Hi I rang BultacoUK for the next size pilot jet up, they said that the biggest they had was a 45 and that to go higher would be a fools errand (my words), they suggested that with the pilot at 45, compared to 40 as standard was not sorting the root cause, which seems a reasonable comment. The problem is I've tried all the things that are obvious: 1. I've blown out the carb with a high pressure hose, its very clean as far as I can tell. 2. The carb is new, so no clatter from the throttle and the needle is straight and new along with all the jets. 3. All jets etc are standard apart from the pilot. 4. I've tried moving the needle up one clip with no noticable improvement. 5. I've tried putting all the old carb jets etc on with no change (In fact worse as this has a 40 Pilot on it). Questions: 1. If I move the float height up slightly will this have the effect of richening the pilot circuit? 2. If I were to change the Main Jet for a larger one, wouldn't it have the effect of richening the mid-top end of the mixture, which is currently OK? 3. If I were to change the needle from standard, what would I change it to? Thanks again Mick

Thanks Paul, I think its where it needs to be now, but I'll work out the X' degree marks using the maths above and see where it comes out, just so I know. I love this forum, I get to learn foreign language, witness arguements and handshakes and now I've added O level maths back in to my vocabulary. Nice one. As far as the electronic v's standard ignition, I've just got it back together and it definately starts easier than before and that was on brand new "every thing", but the LT circuit was shot so would only deliver the spark when it wanted to, but when it worked before it worked well. The starting is a major plus so far, but if I never have to take the left case off to sort the points or swap condensor again, it will be too soon. Thanks again Mick

Hi My M159 is all restored with new seals, bearings etc, etc. The only moving parts not renewed are the piston/rings/bores (loads of compression and fine in my opinion) and the swing arm bushes (not a problem). Apart from that its all new. I've fitted electrex ignition which is timed correctly for this model I believe (2.9mm BTDC) checked on a strobe and it starts on choke very easily. Everything is very smooth and lovely, BUT, in order for it to tick over correctly once warmed up it has to have the mixture screw wound all the way in! If I try backing it out at all (1.5 turns out is standard) it coughs and backfires even at 1/8th turn out from fully seated it starts to react negatively. The carb is a brand new Bing with new jets etc. I understand the different stages of the carburation cycle and the effect the various elements play in the transition from idle through to max. revs and have gone through each element of the carb confirming the settings are correct, so: Pilot Jet is already 45, which should be 40, so it should run rich on this jet anyway, but it doesn't. Needle is on the second clip from bottom (tried next one up with no benefit), the needle is standard for this model. Main is 125, but I do not have a problem once above idle/low revs, so this is not expected to need to changing. Floats are at standard height as per the manual. With the pilot screw all the way in, it runs and ticks over fine, which suggests it is something to do with the pilot mixture in some way. Can anybody help me with an obvious answer? Even those nice people at BultacoUK couldn't shed light on the matter. If the answer is to have the pilot screw all the way in then I 'll just have to accept it as it is and move on, but it is strange.... Thanks in advance wise sages Mick

In 5th, down hill, 14 1/2 st, a big bump on the back wheel as I drop the clutch and.....then listen to the back wheel slide on the tarmac! My bores are worn and it still has enough compression to ignore all the sweating and all the swearing. My starting problems are all resolved, assisted by a kick start shaft that is straight and a small fortune, bumping was not the answer at any point, believe me. If it won't start by kicking, my advice is get someone younger and more obstinate on the job, or get a wheel spinner for your car (with a slip diff'), or fix the problem stopping it from starting....bumping is a sure way to looking like a silly old fart with a bike that doesn't start on the side of the road. Not a good look, even if the youth think I am old...little buggers

Hi I have fitted my new Electrex system today and it starts a lot easier than it did, but I'm also a little confused about the timing. I have two tipex marks on the rotor, one at 3.0mm BTDC and one at 2.8mm BTDC, the bike idles with the strobe light right in the middle of the two. Is this the same as 10' BTDC or do I need to mark the 23' and 10' marks and see where they lie with the strobe on them as the rev's rise and fall? Do I need a rev counter for this, or do I just look for the strobe to move round the rotor and peak at 23' as the rev's rise and pass 3-4k rpm? Cheers Mick (The system is fitted to an M159 325 Sherpa with standard setting of 2.8-3.0mm BTDC)

Hello all I ordered a new ignition (SK-154) for my M159 325cc Sherpa yesterday from Electrex, but they didn't bother sending it till today, despite being assured it would be here today. They didn't bother to ring me either, just to let me know not to waste a day waiting for them not to turn up! I hope the ignition is worth the wait, because its not very good service from them. Spend the extra

I recently tried bumping my 325 in top gear, it wouldn't do anything apart from slide the back tyre along the tarmac! If you are going to try pushing, make sure you have plenty of speed and all your weight over the back wheel or you'll feel completely knackered and still have a bike that won't start... Good luck Cheers Mick

Tom It was worth a try and I'm not realy any worse off than I was before (except the