insultaco

Sids wheels,

My M159 has the rod, the ball bearing and then the mushroom, that's all, but it's been apart in the past so who knows...it works fine though.

Hi all I tried the repair kit, but using a Propane torch does not generate enough heat to penetrate the joint. My efforts have resulted in a small hole where I broke a piece of caseing off trying to vee out the crack.! Bugger! It will have to go to the welders now, but I strongly advise anybody considering this fix to get an oxy' torch or the heat focus will be too little to overcome the heat sink effect of the rest of the casing. Cheers Mick

SAE90 it is then, I'm here to learn... Thanks all Mick

Mag cover and crank case. After pictures to follow. Cheers Mick

Brand new (?) polished steel hubs with nice new brake faces all shiny and nice from BultacoUK.com are £55 each (exchange) plus bearings and re-lacing etc...Bloody good value I reckon and their nice helpful people as well. Cheers Mick Forgot to mention "Sids Wheels" who re-stitched my Sherpa 325 with new stainless spokes on to the original rims for £120.00 the pair, also a good bloke and does really fast, good work. Sid is on 07855 566 713 UK Postcode ST21 6RP if you get your wheels and parts to him, he can supply any spokes and re-build them as required and post them back to you.

Clymer manual says SAE30 for my Sherpa 325, is this wrong?

I've just ordered the starter pack and will keep you all informed, my previous knowledge is limited and amature. Personally I wouldn't trust a structural weld of mine, but tacking stuff together I can do OK and my soldering is fine. I'm probably a good judge of how easy for a beginner it is. I'll practice on my old mag' cover first then tackle the crank case after I've got some idea. The crack is fairly small and should be easy (....gulp... !). I'll post before and after shots for you all to take the p@#s out of.. Cheers people, always very helpful... Mick

Thanks woody, back to "that" auction site it is then... Whats the best for of chemical weld for this area as a temporary fix? I was going to use araldite as a short term solution, at least it will stop water/mud getting in the crack/magneto. Is there a better alternative? I'd rather not go down the TIG welding route. Cheers again Mick

Hi I need a new L/H Crank Case and Magneto Casing, will any other model in the range work? The old ones have been battered by a chain snapping. Will the 158 fit? Do I have to do anything to make any other case in the range fit? I don't want to have to start cutting it about and welding etc. Just trying to broaden my options. Cheers Mick

I've just changed the Points/Coil/Plug/Cap/Condensor Ignition Tune Up Kit - http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_147762--61014-Ignition-Tune-Up-Kit-TY80.html Coil/Cap - http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_153950-HT-Coil-amp-Cap-TY80.html all of which came to around

Border Classic Motorcycle Club - nice folk who put up with a complete beginner on a Greeves TFS. White is doable by most adults and they get worse from there. Targetted at the classic bikes so courses to suit. Good luck Mick Find them here http://www.facebook.com/pages/Border-Classic-Motor-Cycle-Club/280608703509?ref=ts

Hello all. My sons TY80 (normally starts 1st/2nd kick) has refused to start for the past few days. If I strip the carb, blow everything out, blow clean the plug, put it all back together again and kick it over, it will try for approx 5-10 secs to start (splutters and kind of fires, but sounds laboured), then dies and won't go again unless you repeat the above and even then it may not fire... It has a VERY clean carb with new Main, Needle and Pilot Jets, new float needle assembly and new Return Spring and I've confirmed the needle height is correct and that the float is set correctly as per Haynes manual setting instructions. The jet needle has no visible wear. The slide goes up and down easily and the throttle cable has been lubricated and gives a smooth action. The pilot screw is out 1.5 turns from seated. I've stripped the choke assy., pilot screw and tickover screw and blown everything out. I've had the reeds off and given them a clean, but they appeared pretty clean anyway. I've stripped the fuel tap filter, which was full of swarf and other c**p. The flow rate appears to have been OK even before the strip-down. Its a brand new plug (see previous post) and the spark appears good. It has good clean points and .35mm points gap at TDC. I've disconnected the kill switch to exclude this as an issue, but that is new and the problem is the same even if its connected or not. It has new crank seals etc fitted by TYTrials.co.uk and new piston and rings fitted by the previous owners Dad, compression appears fine. The fuel is new and mixed at 50:1 Please help, I've had to exclude my son from tha garage because he's getting the back-lash of my frustration with his bike!!! Cheers Mick

My problem was identical to this, I changed the plug (despite the problem plug being brand new two weeks before the problem started). It started first kick after I changed the plug!

I have a further question that I think is related to this. I just rebuilt my sons TY80 carb' and all settings are as stated in the manual/here on this thread. It starts first kick and needs very little choke to start it/keep it going. It apppears unwilling to rev up to higher reves, it's like it is struggling to draw enough fuel through quickly enough. Is this likely to be the Needle height? It is currently on the fourth clip down as per above, I was thinking I maybe need to raise the needle one position. What do you all think? Thanks in advance. Mick

I as told that I would need to machine down parts to make the taper bearings fit, but this is not the case, the pyramid bearings are a direct replacement. Not sure if all models use the same size, I'll leave that to others. Good luck

Took the prudent route and fitted another new plug... it started first kick... arrrrrgh! Now I have to kick myself!

I've been to Finland, it's probably the most gorgeous place I have ever been in my life, go there and take a trials bike to get around in the summer or a snow mobile in the winter, bloody amazing. And they get p****d alot and do naked suana (could lose the birch whipping though)....

Good point.

Are the original '76 M159 Sherpa 350 plastic/fiberglass (?) tanks legal in current trials?

I didn't realize I got to learn Finnish as well as stuff about trials, what a place...

They are about to produce one for the M159 as well, design TBC

Hi. The mix is the same, just the method of delivery that is different when you take off the auto-lube system, so no carb work should be required (not because of this at least...). I've just had to replace the guts of my sons TY80 to get it to stop flooding, it was all very worn and probably original to the bike. It may be worth stripping out all the jets etc and giving them a good clean and inspection before you go further. Use a high pressure air hose and carb cleaner.

Hi I removed the kill switch first as that was my first thought also. I'm going to get a new plug tomorrow just in case, I've checked the points gap and BTDC and they are fine. It's sparking once in a blue moon, but only very weakly even though it is well grounded to the head. Onwards and upwards... Thanks for the response anyway Mick