insultaco

Thankyou both for the rapid response, the plug is new, I think its the coil but will have to wait till next week now to find out. Where is cheapest for coils? Cheers Mick

50:1 appears to be the general concensus. Use a good quality castor or semi-synthetic oil (you'll see that oil type is a subject of much debate around this site). Cheers Mick

Hi all. My sons TY80 started 1st/2nd kick several times prior to this problem, from hot and cold even having stood in my mates garage for a month prior to Xmas. It got dropped repeatedly on Xmas Day (first day on a bike ever) and finally ran out of fuel. My daughter flooded it in an attempt to get it started and it ended up parked over-night in the shed. When I bumped it, it tried to go and then failed after a weak splutter. The carb was flooding. Its now got new Main Jet, Float Needle Assy, Carb Gasket, Pilot Jet, Carb Spring and the carb has been cleaned out and blown through very carefully. It now appears to have no spark, although it did before I renewed the carb bits because I checked several times. The plug is a standard NGK and is in new condition, clean and gapped at .5mm. The exhaust is attached firmly, but was lose when I checked it at the start of this saga. It has brand new crank bearings, seals, piston and rings and gaskets all round fitted by TYTrials. The carb had the mixture screw all the way in when I originally checked, it's now 1.5 turns out. Questions: The coil appears to be well earthed but old. How do I confirm it is OK with a multi meter please? What is the points gap? I think they may have slipped in the numerous falls... What is the BTDC in mm? What should the float height be and where are the datum points for measuring it? Thanks guys, Im waiting for a manual to appear, but have been let down by the post, it would be great to get this sorted for the weekend. Cheers Mick

Thanks for your help, I'll re-fit them if they are standard. Cheers Mick

Sids Wheels will rebuild an existing rim/hub if supplied, not sure if he can supply all the parts, but if they are available, he can almost certainly get it sorted for you. He's based near Stafford, UK. He's very cheap and a really nice guy, he works from home which is why he is cheap, not because his work is cheap... He does all my mates classic bikes and recently did my Bultaco M159, laced on new stainless hubs from BultacoUK, on to existing rims using new stainless spokes. Nice work. Sids wheels, 07855 566 713, UK Post Code is ST21 6RP. Hope this help someone. Cheers Mick

I've stripped my M159 forks down and they have upside-down U-shaped spacers at the bottom of the springs, these spacers do not appear in either my Haynes or Clymer manuals. They are shaped like a capital U with a flare at the ends. Are they required or are they a mod' that has been completed by a previous owner in an attempt to pre-load the spring? Any ideas? I've got new springs, newly re-chromed stanchions (Philpotts in Luton) and new fork seals, so I'm not expecting them to have anything other than a "standard" feel initially, I can mess with the oil weight etc later. The general condition of the internals appears to be fine with no obviously excessive wear that might demand additonal spacers. Thanks Mick

I purchased a set of taper bearings from Pyramid and they fit perfectly, they are cheaper than the originals from BultacoUK as well. Give them a ring with the size you want and they send them out straight away. I didn't have to machine anything down, they are a straight replacement. You will need access to a press or get your local tool shop to do the work for you. My M159 took size 45x25x12 and they were available off the shelf.

Take the autolube system off and run pre-mix, this way you know it will always be correct and you save weight too. You can get a blanking plate and gasket from TYTrials.co.uk