huski

Is the flap in the bottom of the airbox sealing properly?Also the airbox is made in 2 parts and often leaks,its held together with screws deeply recessed in .Worth splitting it and resealing with Stikaflex,which is a windscreen bonding sealer available from a motor factors.The reticulate foam mod as suggested helps a lot too

Bought an irc as an Xmas present to myself ,it's fitted to a 13 gas gas,took 60 psi to seat it,its been fine ever since.I know others who have them and they've been fine too,reckon you got an old stock one

Don't think there is such a thing

New fan switch time

Wouldn't use anything but NoToil,nothing has got through the filter yet.Washes out easily with washing powder,no solvents needed which can damage the filter

Think I'd get it rebored and a new piston rather than ride it,itll never go like you want it to.It looks superb

Ride a few events as it is and see how you like it.The weight does make a big difference to the bottom end response,also helps grip and makes it less likely to stall

Be a good idea to change the oil now the bikes run in anyway.If you've already got the oil you mention try it,you've nothing to lose.

Go for something newer that runs $1000 sounds too much anyway

I don't recognise it either,but it was meant to be in there and must have served a purpose.I wouldn't ride it in case something else goes wrong.Im sure others on here could tell you what it is/what it did,wait for more replies

Citroen hydraulic suspension fluid from a motor factor,£5 a litre

Do you have free play at the lever before the master cylinder piston moves..If the master cylinder doesn't leak there's nothing wrong with it,sounds like there's not enough fluid in there

Probably not what you want to read,but we had a2007 rev3 which wouldn't run right when hot and it defied all our attempts to fix it too.Gave up with it in the end,too frustrating

2.0 hdi Citroen dispatch/Peugeot expert/Fiat Scudo,all very much the same.Im on my 3rd,if you can find an 04/06 model which has been maintained and not done much a huge mileage it'll be just the job.Can get 3 bikes in at a push,2 fit easily,and plenty big enough to change in too.Side door noise I overcome by a ratchet strap pulling the doors together at the top and just use the back doors.Locks are rubbish on the key ,ensure you get one with remote central locking.They need the cambelt and water pump changed at 100k,oil and filter every 8k,mechanically pretty tough,although electrical problems aren't unknown They do about 38 mpg average and cruise 75ish comfortably,and don't rust

Take the disc off and get a nut welded to what remains of the bolt,undoing it as soon as it's welded.Drilling it out is possible,but it's hard to drill it accurately unless you have a pillar drill

I had a301 new back in 86,it was brilliant at the time,being one of the first monoshock bikes.Suspension linkage bushes wore out quickly but everything else was fine

Definitely hydraulic,start with bleeding it

Your static sag would be better at 10 mm,which would mean it would sag less with you on it.The standard spring is a bit soft for you and as suggested I'd have the shock off and check the damping,I assume you've tried the damping adjustment screw to see what effect it has? I never thought the Sachs shock on my previous Gasgas was that special,the Reiger on my present one is hugely better as was The Ohlins on my sons bike.Rather than spend on the Sachs if it's not working properly I'd put the money towards replacing it

Marquez got off lightly.He was the fastest man on track and would have overtaken Rossi and Espargaro easily.Rossi lost valuable points through no fault of his own which could alter his championship position at the end of the season through possibly the best rider in the world riding like an arrogant a--e.

Sounds right

Idle speed is too high,plug colour looks slightly weak.4turns out on the mixture screw seems a lot ,if everything else is OK 2 turns or so is close.These engines have a lot of flywheel weight so they slow down slower than a GasGas or Sherco,carburetion on the Beta when new wasn't as good as you would like.Think they fitted a different carb on the later ones which improved them ,might be worth investigating

Did the brake work beforehand,or is that why you're changing the pads?Are you sure you haven't just pushed the piston out too far.Were the old pads contaminated with brake fluid ?If you need another calliper google Allens Used Trials Spares in the U.K.,he might have one

Can you get them welded

Sticking throttle can happen on any bike,wouldn't put me off a TRS,haven't heard of any other problems,likewise I haven't heard of anyone having bogging problems with an18 Gas gas?Both of these cases sound like more maintenance/set up problems than inherent faults

£2k should get you something better than the ones you've mentioned?As pointed out by others condition is more important than brand or age,but you need to test ride anything you fancy to both see if it suits you and is worth buying.Buying a good one is always better than putting right a well used and/or badly maintained one