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Different frame,different brake so no unless you are a good engineer
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Doesn't sound too bad £300 should fix it,250/300 are identical apart from top end.Kickstart assembly is thus strained with the bigger piston,not too bad to replace makesure no bits have embedded in the clutch/crankshaft gears,a tiny bit makes it knock like you wouldnt believe.You sometimes needs magnyfying glass to see it.The clutch normally rattles till you pull it in,Worth spending a bit of money and time on,it's not hugely different from a new one
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Have you heard it run or are you taking the vendors word for it that it starts if you bump it.Check the valve clearances and clean the connector plugs on the injection and ignition systems, a tiny bit of water or corrosion in these can cause problems. Have you tried a brand new plug
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Great bike,check linkage for play,genaral wear and tear,ask owner how frequently he changes gear oil,wants to be every 6 meetings or less,clutches sometimes drag but easily fixed,check its got genuine gear lever and brake pedal,aftermarket ones are sometimes too soft,not too much for a novice with a slow action throttle
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Not worth the risk re-using them
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If you can't find one a small machine shop could make and fit one for you,it's not a difficult job
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Noticeably better than standard,but standard is good enough for anyone below national championship level
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Don't mistake piston noise with cluch rattle,all pro's do it.Does it go quieter if you pull in the clutch with it ticking over?Check the linkage bearings,put a stand under the bash plate and try lifting the rear wheel,any play will be obvious,good bargaining point if worn.Have a look in the airbox,well maintained bikes don't have a box full of c--p.Look for chewed up bolt heads and general bodging,if it all seems ok you'll love it,they were great bikes and not hugely different from the present one
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If petrol is getting in the gear oil,it must have a crank seal gone.The air is not coming in through the hole,its bogging cos it's sucking gear oil in and burning it,does it smoke badly?If it's really tatty be prepared to spend a fair bit on it to get it useable.Sorry for the bad news
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the aftermarket pedals are softer than the originals,and are easier to bend.The 2011 pedal sticks out a long way,making it more vulnerable.The earlier model pro pedal fits with a bit of fettling,is almost straight and is more resistant to twisting and damage and is cheaper,but easier to miss with your boot
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Buy the best condition bike you can,an 07 sherco will ride better than the Mont but may not be the better buy if its had a hard life,Abused and poorly maintained bikes can take a lot to put right,generally more than getting the right bike to start with.Take a mechanically minded mate with when you view it.easy to miss problems with your own eyes.Good luck
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Good luck to them,but does it make commercial sense?Trials is a small market with probably too many manufacturers already,you'd have to make a bike as good or better to ride,ensure reliability and cheap enough to affect the established brands,
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sell it and put the money towards the best condition bike you can afford,could be looking at 2010/11 models with that budget,will be much better to ride than your Sherco,all 250s of that age are good
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Do it,even if you don't like it,which I guarantee you will,its better to look back on things without regretting what you didn.t do.47 is a lot younger than a lot of people I ride with,and you'll meet some great people
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Bit weak on the pilot,#38 would allow the mixture screw to be further in and more sensitive,but its still rideable as is.Bathroom sealant would never stop a petrol leak,could try tank sealer as suggested but I don't think its a long term fix,maybe source another tank
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You will have to persevere with the PTU and speak to somebody,if it was imported by Gas Gas UK it would be legit.Governmental departments don't always understand out of the ordinary situations like this,but you are not the first to have this problem
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Was a good event,variety of sections,severity about right,nothing dangerous
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this not something men can answer,its best suited to women
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They were sods to start when hot from new,made worse if the valve clearances have closed up.If you want a 4t,the Mont is better in all respects
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If the head gasket had gone it would pressurise the cooling system and force coolant out of the overflow,,so needing constant topping up.As for jumping into gear,are you sure it was in neutral properly.If it continues to do it,it's strip down time to have a look in the gearbox.Or don,t let it tickover without the clutch in
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At that pressure If you got a puncture you'd let some air in
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IT Yamaha piston fits,but does alter the power characteristics which may not be to your liking
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I have a 2011 250 pro,and the gear lever keeps working loose.Tried 2 gear levers,same result .I've sawn the gap in the lever wider so it clamps tight,but it still works loose.Never had this problem on previous models.Any ideas?
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Why Is it really a problem to mark the cans
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