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Not the case.the top hat spacers are static,and are very slightly longer than the bearings in the linkage.The linkage pivots on the spacers,you cannot bind the linkage up through over tightening,tighten them to 45nm
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Just had another look.The instructions clearly say the nut is R/H thread,so anti-clockwise loosens it.But the weight is still screwed into the flywheel which you would remove clockwise.Youd have to stop the crank turning and have a tool to locate in the holes in the weight to turn it,good luck
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I'm thinking I might be wrong on that,been some time since I removed one.Id call Gas Gas UK to be sure.Logically it would be LH thread where the extractor goes in so that it tightens into the flywheel as you tighten the extractor bolt
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The clamping force applied by a correctly torqued M10 bolt is enough to stop the top hat bush moving on the bolt.Id be thinking its more likely to be the bearing worn and the bush moving in that.Wheel bearings don't seem to last as long as you'd expect,I've just replaced mine with SKF ones,see how long they last.Ive fitted a grease nipple to the head stock,pump fresh grease in every few months,surprising how much water comes out,must be jet washing that does it.
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You have to have all your weight on the outside footrest and lean the bike in a lot when you turn to stop it washing out.The clutch never was the best on Beta (still isn't),some seem better than others.It looks a very clean bike you've picked up
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The weight must be screwing into the flywheel extractor thread which is conventional R/H thread
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Can only be that big hex nut holding it on,and probably tight fit on the original flywheel
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None of my bikes have ever had one,never had a problem in 35 years
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No slop in mine at all,all original bearings at 2 years old.Are sure all the bolts are tight,can't see the bottom bush having that much play on a 2020 bike.Appreciate it shouldn't be delivered like this but wasn't the best idea to ignore it when new,you could have taken it back under warranty
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Do you feel that the standard Showa shock isn't good enough?Depends what spec Ohlins you buy whether it would be considerably better,seems an expensive way of getting a stiffer spring.Id buy a different spring for the Showa,I'm assuming they're available
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If your wife is happy with it I'd leave it alone,it's not worth much more with a (for example Ohlins)shock than as standard.You could fit an Ohlins then possibly think the back is fine,but shows up the front,upgrade that but where do you stop?Save your money and put it towards something newer and better when she wants an upgrade
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You're right,just checked mine
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It does go off,but it'll still run.My road bike still has the fuel in it from September,still starts and runs the same,might have less power,but I don't know as I'm not riding it.My trials bike gets started weekly for 15mins of driveway practice,but the fuel in that is only 6 weeks old.When it's OK to ride them properly again I'll fill them with fresh fuel,main thing is to start them regularly
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It's the pressure relief valve letting excess pressure out of the rad.If it's getting really hot it might be air locked,is there a little bolt in the top of the head near the radiator hose which you need to loosen when you fill it ,there was on my Gasgas and is on my TRS.Splatshop will tell you,give them a call
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Condition is everything on used bikes,seeing as there's a Beta importer in your country I'd look for a 250 Beta
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That's right,the tube that the grip goes onto is white,fast throttle is black
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Sounds like the fan is powered by the ignition circuit which is wrong as it's unrectified A/C current and as you've found kills the ignition when the fan comes on.It needs to be powered by the lighting circuit
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Has it got an air leak between the carb and the head?Get it ticking over then go round the inlet between the carb and head with an oil can.If its leaking it'll suck oil in and start smoking
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Well done,wonder how the pick up wires got reversed?Thank Christ you've sorted it,most would have given up,you can enjoy it once this crazy situation is past,
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Without starting it,put in 6th gear,pull the clutch in and pull it backwards hard,this normally frees the clutch.Might save you stripping it
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Some are worse than others for no apparent reason.Seem worse if the idle screw is set weak,but there is a knack to kicking them.You have to get a bit forward on the bike and kick backwards as well as down.Theres a bit of slack before the mechanism takes up which you have to feel for,it's easy to damage the quadrant gear if you just kick it
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Ride the bike with the front brake on and get it hot.Blast the disc with the garden hose.Sounds like witchcraft but it helps
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Google 2005 gas gas pro ignition,I just did,quite informative
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Your bike looks to be an 05,going by it's plastics.The timing is non adjustable on these,the stator mountings aren't slots.Seems the ignition system you've fitted is for the earlier model which has a different engine
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Try a different flywheel perhaps?Are all the connectors on the wiring good?I feel it's got to be electrical,a mechanical problem would always be there.Seems like as soon as something gets hot enough the resistance increases to a point where it no longer works properly
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