scoobie

Hi, Neo you were right it was the plug - started 2nd kick However!!! As soon as it starts it's revving highly and I have to hit the kill switch - it does this with or without choke. Took the carb off (again!) and took out the choke mechanism and cleaned it (seems to be working OK), noticed that the float needle was falling quite far out of its seat before hitting the float arm at an angle so that it could - in some instances - jam open. I bent the rear brass tang so that it could only drop so far and not stick, cleaned out all the jets, put the carb back, made sure there all connections were tight, and made sure that the throttle slide was in correctly. No joy It was exactly the same - high revving from the off without choke with the revs increasing. I've not removed the needle, but I've read somewhere that to make sure that it hadn't 'turned' - what does that mean? Thanks in advance.

Hi, Before I checked the timing I decided to run the bike and have a play but the damn thing won't start??? It ran fine before I serviced it; all I've done is clean out the carb, clean and gap the plug etc. There is spark when I hand crank it over, although it's weak. There is fuel getting to the carb and to the plug and I've had the carb off about 15 times to recheck the jets - no-blockages at all, and all connections to the carb are airtight. ( I can now remove the carb, clean it out and get it back on in 20 minutes - at least something good has come out of it!!!) The filter has been washed and re-oiled, and I'm using 70:1 mix of unleaded and TTS. It doesn't even want to start and I'm using choke and no-throttle. The only options I can think of are: 1). The fuel is out of a jerry can and has been in there since summer. 2). I need a new plug, although I'm getting a spark - new ones should be arriving tommorrow. 3). 1000:1 shot is the last time I had it running the woodruff key sheared/broke just before I serviced it. I rang Rathmell's and they said 1). shouldn't matter, nor 2). really as I'm getting a spark and he doesn't think 3). could have happened. Any ideas anyone as I'm nearly out of them.

Hi, Does the manual on the USA website regarding 'timing' cover the 04 models as well? It states in the blurb that it only covers up to 03. I havn't got access to an impact driver or dial gauge just normal sockets and a strobe. I realise that I need to get a flywheel puller, but will I be able to do it with what I've got? It may sound a silly question but do the flywheel retaining nut and the flywheel puller (once inserted), both follow the usual clockwise tighten/anti-clockwise loosen? For some reason I've got it in my head that one of these is oppossite, so I'd thought I'd check before trying. Thanks in advance.

Hi, Thanks for the reply. With the carb upside down and the float bowl and floats removed the float arm was not parallel, but raised slightly. I removed it and slightly adjusted the arm's so they were now parallel. Then measuring up from the throttle body to the float arm (both sides) the measurement was 18.5mm - Is this the magic figure I found when doing a search on this site, or just a coincidence? Cheers,

Went on the Dell'Orto website and all it states for the PHBL series is...'for floats with independent parts hold the carb upside down and check that the float arm is parrallel to the carb face'. To adjust 'carefully bend the float arms to the required position'. Then in the table at the side it states a float height of 24 +/- 0.5 mm. - Is this with the floats attached measured from the bottom of the float to the carb body?

Hi, Just want to check the float height on my 04 290. I've done a search and found that the measurement should be 18.5, but how and where do you take the measurement, and how do you adjust it? Cheers,

Cheers guys, I shall bend away on the morrow.

I've noticed that with the side stand up the spring rubs slightly on the side wall of the tyre. All the spacers are in place and the rear wheel is torqued correctly and runs true. Anyone else had this problem on an 04 290? What did you do apart from the obvious of removing the stand? Thanks,

Hi, Remember I'm new to trials bikes after enduro/trail machines where if you use a tube or mousse then you use a rimlock or two. I've never used a tubeless tyre on a bike before so automatically thought if I put a tube in I'd need a rimlock - I assumed that a tubeless tyre could occassionally still spin on the rim, but without a tube in it wouldn't be a problem as it wouldn't rip the valve out. With this wheel I had no plans to use it 'tubeless' again anyway as I've got the other rear. Cheers,

Cheers,

Hi, Thanks for the response all. The wheel I 'messed' around with was a spare that was with the bike. On the bike is a brand new Morad with new tyre, bearings, disc and sprocket. The other spare I am going to use whilst I learn on the bike. I did follow all the advice on the site re: making sure the rim tape was on - I even heard a sight crack/snap as it went into place. In the morning it would be flat!!!. I think there may have been something amiss with it somewhere. Hence I decided to put a tube in. I've removed the rimlocks and put in old valves cut out from tubes - I needed these in the past to help seat a tyre when I 've used mousse's - so no water should get in. I'll have a look at the B and Q compressor thanks.

Hi, Thanks for the feedback. The reason I went down the tube option was because I kept getting air leaks from spokes/valve even after trying all the methods listed on the site, that and the pain in the a**e of the hours travel time to the nearest garage, and trying to 'hold' the wheel onto the rim while I inflated it. The little compressor I have that plugs into the car is powerful enough to inflate a tube etc, but wouldn't make any headway on the tubeless. Also I can - usually - get a wheel off a bike, remove the tube and replace, and get it back on again in 20 minutes, so if I was out on the bike and had a puncture the quickest and easiest option was to put a tube in - I couldn't see how I could sort out a tubless out in 'the field' if it began to leak from the spokes/valve again. I checked the other posts on the site and people advised if you were having trouble to 'put a tube' in it. I just assumed from my experience with enduro bikes that you would need rimlocks (and that's what the guy at the dealers advised as well!!!). I'll remove the rimlocks and try it without. Cheers,

Many thanks for that. Did as everyone suggested and accomplished the task no-problem. Now having major problems withe the rear wheel!!! It was leaking at the valve when I bought the bike, and seeing as I havn't got a compressor I decided to put a tube in. I drilled out the rim and put in two rimlocks, then tried to fit the tyre with a tube. So far I have destroyed 3 tubes and two tyres. I cannot work out where I'm going wrong. I use a mouse board, have good quality levers, etc etc. I've been changing tyres and mousses on my enduro bikes for years, but this has me stumped. I cannot get the last couple of inches of tyre in without damaging the tyre and the tube. I've even tried using my bead buddies, but the tyre just snaps them out. I got the tyres with the bike and they are 'tubeless'. Is it because they are tubeless and I need to buy 'tubed' tyres? I thought you could put a tube in a tubless tyre? Any help appreciated as this is getting far too expensive.

Hi, Decided to service the above as it's been stood for a couple of months. Regreased all the bearings, dog bones etc, no-problem. However, I stupidly decided to remove the carb and clean it out as well as to check and top-up the coolant - what a mistake!!!! Now can't get the airbox onto the back of the carb - is that black plastic surround that fits onto the front of the airbox necessary? When I replaced the throttle slide it works fine, but I can hear the spring scrunching-up inside - is there a way that the spring fit's inside? Also, cannot get the top back on the rad - there's just no-room. Do I need to drop the rad somehow or remove the wiring etc above? Any advice appreciated as I've been at it for over 4 hours today with no-joy. Cheers,

Many thanks for that guys. If I can think of anything I shall certainly give you a shout.

Hi, Now the proud owner of the above. Just a few quick questions - on the Sherco website the only manual download is for 2003 - are the specs the same re: gearbox oil amount etc? The lad ran the bike with a mixture of 70:1 with fully synthetic. Any comments on the mixture ratio etc? He hasn't done the fuel filter mod as recommended by the site but has retarded the timing and fitted a slow response throttle. Do I need to sort out the fuel filter as recommended - he's had no-problems? Torque settings - done a search and can't find them anywhere (especially axle's, forks, and handlebar mounts). What's everyone else using? Can I use the torque specs for another make of trials bike? - I'm sure Gas Gas or Scorpa listed theirs somewhere. Cheers,

Thanks all.

Hi, Thanks for all the replies. How do you tell if the lower linkage is 'on it's way out'? Thanks,

Hi, Is the above a good bike for a begginner (13st)? Any known faults; things to look out for? Cheers,

Hi, What do you think of the above as a first bike for a 13st adult compared to a Sherco 250 2004 or a 99 Cota 315 RX? Are the R and RX the same bike? Any known faults to look for? Thanks,

Problem solved!!! The lad checked the woodruff key and that was fine., so he decided to check all the electrical system over again. He accidentally touched the HT lead and got a jolt. He found a small pinprick hole so opened it up and found that the carbon/copper core had disintegrated in one place so the spark had to jump a gap. This had got/was getting worse - so hopefully one new HT lead and all will be back to normal. Cheers everyone and Merry Christmas.

Hi, The lad sad that he was going to get hold of a fly-wheel puller and check the woodruff key - then he texted me and said he had found the problem by accident. He hasn't told me what it is yet; as I said I'd contribute towards the cost of new parts if necessary as I feel it's only right. I know I would appreciate it if the shoe was on the other foot. So problem solved and I'll let you know what the problem was as soon as I find out. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Hi, To 'Son of Rat' - I havn't tried to belittle your dad's mechanical skills on this site. Please read my posts carefully. I have only questioned the wisdom of the mechanics that your dad has spoken to.Your dad asked me for help and I have been trying to do this right from the start (see my first post) - if I wasn't then this disscussion would never have arisen. All I have done is ask the people on this site, that have greater knowledge than me about this model of bike, what the problem could possibly be. If I wasn't trying to help solve the problem in any way, I would never have spoken to/e-mailed your dad when the problem arose - I would simply have ignored him. I am trying to resolve what is probably best termed as bad luck on both sides. If you want to chat to me about it please feel free to e mail me privately. Thanks,

Hi, I won't get into a slanging match as I'm not that type of guy. I've offered to go halfs on the cost of getting the stator rewound, or woodruff etc, sorted if that's the case, as I think that's fair if it did go wrong so soon. As you've said it could suddenly happen. I wouldn't trust the mechanics that he took the bike to though - they said that the CDI and Stator had both gone(?????) and the engine was making bad noises, meaning that it was only fit to be scrapped. Personally I think the bike should go on show, as it managed to run with all thoses electrical problems.

Hi, Thanks for the feedback guys. No the bike wasn't sold with a warranty - it is what it is a 6 year old trials bike that was running A1 when I let it go. I suppose I'm being anal but I wouldn't want anyone to think I sold them a bad bike on purpose, and to spread it round that I had. I have been riding, maintaining and selling bikes for about 25 years and never had any bad feedback. I thought back to when he first came to pick the bike-up. He told me a story of how he succesfully took a lad to the small claims court because of a bike that had been sold to his mate and won the case. He also told me his mate had a Beta like mine who he phoned during the sale. Now I'm beginning to smell a rat - I don't like to think bad of people, but it would have been very easy to swap a few bits (or even the engine!!) and then give me a ring. Since he said he had the problem I've tried to point him in the right direction - to the Beta home site and even to here to ask the questions I did, but he hasn't bothered; just continually rung me. It's annoying. If the bike had gone wrong as soon as he had got it home I would have had it back from him - I didn't really want to sell it - I just needed the room. Or I would have told him to take it straight to a mechanic to see what he said and then offered to go half's on the bill - especially as has been suggested that what could have gone wrong could have happened at any time. It's just the fact that he has been messing with the bike and I don't know exactly what he's done. I know the bike was running OK when it left me, so I think if he wants to take it legally then I will go down that route - I'm not going to be ripped-off. Thanks again guys. For your info this the advert on ebay when I sold it - if you can still access it: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1