majesty320

I have tried to contact the last bidder before the scammers as they also bid on my ignition, but I have had no answer from them as yet. It probably looks a bit dogdy to them. This is the most annoying thing. I had a genuine bidder who probably would have bought it, but now wont touch it with a barge pole because of some idiots who have got nothing better to do. Anyway better get off the soap box as the way my lucks going Ill probably fall off and hurt myself.

It was my tank it didnt sell for that price, infact it didnt sell at all, as some numpty from the USA out did a local bidder by about

Woody my bike has a Godden frame would this still ride the same or is the steering geometry different. Also Ive seen the picture of your Majesty what front brake plate are you using. Thanks Mark

I am in the process of rebuilding my Majesty 250, and I need to know what to do with the forks. Should I rechrome the origional TY forks as they always seemed to work ok or should I fit forks from later bikes with a leading axle. I cant get any TY mono forks as the are like hens teeth and have dodgy hubs, but have managed to find a set of 35mm Marzocchis complete with wheel and brake plate. Could any one tell me what advantage leading axle forks have other than better damping. Thanks to anyone who can help. Mark

This is no ordinary whitehawk, I rode this bike after it was built by the origional owner about 8 months ago. It has ty250 forks, fantic rims, electronic ignition, a trail and trials uk 200cc convertion, trick hand built rear shocks, tubeless tyres and the boost bottle. This bike pulls and hanldes like a modern 250 light years away from my sons 175. I am 14 stone and it pulled me along effortlessly.The boost bottle gives it instant throttle response off the bottom of the rev range. It was built by the guy that came second in the twinshock class on an armstrong ccm at this years nostalgia trial. Sorry he actually came first but he was beaten by a guy on a trick 21st century cub not a genuine 1980s twinshock.

Hi all can anybody advise me if there is anyway I can upgrade the footresrs on my m80 without cutting off the mounting lugs, is there anything else available ie pursang etc chers Mark

The 320 I had had a massive weight o the flywheel. The flywheel I have now has a small weight fitted. John Cain at Trail and Trials has at least 3 ty250 flywheels with different weights. So as you say the ty 250 flywheel may be standard, but the weight that people have fitted to them have varied quite a lot. hopefully we can post pictures of these so people can see that there is no such thing as a standard weight for a majesty fly wheel. PS no of the weights have been added by us they have all come off bikes that have been broken- all TY250/majesty.

My Godden framed Majesty has a frame number that is marked 82. I presume this means it was manufactured in 1982. Scotty as you know Im in the process of rebuilding it as a 250, and I have just managed to get hold of the lighter flywheel off the standard TY, as I sold the heavy Majesty item to a guy in France along with the rest of the 320 parts.

Speak to John Cane at Trail & Trials UK he knows everything there is to know about these bikes. As one of the previous replies said the only cure is to fit a new kick start shaft, as all TY175's will do this eventually it is one of a few common faults with this model

Scotty check this site it helped me loads when I rebuilt my m80

The slimline kit was first fitted to the m49, looking at the front pipe on your exhaust it looks like its from a m49. The front hub could be from a Pursang as this was a common mod. I would check the frame number to see if its a m49 or m80 frame. If you have the first issue of Classic Dirt bike my M80 is inside it may help you with comparisons. If not, pm me with you email address and I will send you some piccs of the bike if you want them. Best of luck with a classic bultaco, Mark

My Majesty is totally stripped at the moment, and it is a box of bits. I paid

john cane at trail and trials uk, www.tytrials.co.uk he is in the north west and is really good with tys and will carryout the work if you wish

If you saw the owner ride the Whitehawk, and what it is capable of in the right hands you might just drop your 320 majesty or 340 bulto. No that would be silly, but I think it would be nice to have one of these as well. I weigh 14 stone ish and it dragged me round effortlessly. It has 250 forks on so it tracks and steers really well. If anybody has put Sammy Miller lowered footrests on a ty175 they know how they shake there heads at the mere sight of rocks. There is no sign of this with the Whitehawk.

I have ridden TY175's recently with and without boost bottles, and I can definatley say it makes a big difference to the throttle response of the bottom at low revs. I have also ridden the Whitehawk that is on Ebay and can only say it is awesome. I you can afford to go the 200 route then this is definatley the way to go. Speak to John at Trail and Trials UK as he supplied the kit for the Whitehawk. Ill say it agin it is awesome.

Can anybody help me? My sherpa m80 has 520 chain with 11 tooth sprocket on the front, and 40 tooth on the back, but is to fast at low throttle in first gear. Does anyone have any suggestions as to which sizes of sprockets to use. Dont think I can go any smaller on the front so it probably needs larger on the back, but what size?

Its interesting to hear people talking about restoring Ossa mars, Ive always liked the look of this bike since I was young but have been put of buying one to restore, as i was told parts are really hard to come by. Is this the case. Mark

I have adjusted the clutch on my m80 as per the manual, but when I start it sometimes the kickstart engages and other times it will slip on the clutch. can anybody tell me if this is common, and how to cure this problem. Thanks Mark

Just finished restoring this bultaco M80, It will be in the first edition of Classis Off Road magazine, Its not a concorse job but its nice enough so I wont cry if I scratch it the first time I ride it.

I have all the parts to make a 320 if anyone is interested, The parts have only done 4-5hrs since a complete engine rebuild. Parts available are:- 320 piston, rings, gudgen pin and little end bearing 320 head and barrel 320 head gasket 320 barrel spacer ( goes between barrel and crank cases) modified crank cases I also have a fly wheel with a full width weight, but wish to exchange this for a 250 item, as I want to rebuild it as a 250, If you are interested let me know Cheers Mark

I intend to ride it at our local pre 65 clubs twin shock class, I though about fitting the original style metal mud gaurds but desided agaist it as I didnt want them getting damaged. If I fit a silencer how badly is the power effected, as its really loud, on par with a motox bike. Im probably only going to ride it until my Majesty is back up and running, this is being converted back to a 250, so if theres anybody out there who wants all the necessary bits to build a 320 let me know. 320 barrel newly rebored head with one broken fin 320 piston used once crank cases machined to take 320 piston head gasket opened out to take larger piston spacer for between barrel and crank cases read block spacer Flywheel with full width weight ( exchange if possible for 250 item) Let me know if your interested, serious offers please as I know how much this stuff can change hands for, Im only selling it as the 320 is to powerful for me

Though Id post a couple of pics of my newly restored m80 sherpa. I know its not competitive in the twin shock class, but I think it was one of the best looking trials bikes ever built, and besides that trickest bike in the world wouldnt win with me on board. Hope you like it. Cheers Mark p.s anybody out there got a triangular silencer for this bike.

Ive been trying to upload a couple of photos but it keeps saying the are to big how do I resize them. cheers mark

speak to John Cane at Trail and Trials uk, he does a 200 conversion. A friend of ours fitted one to a whitehawk, the bike also has ty250 front end the engine is awesome and the bike handles like a dream.

If it only does it on start up dont worry as most do it at one time or another. Try using a good quality light gear oil, Im pressuming youve tried to adjust it as per the manual. If that doesnt work have a look at the clutch basket, the plates wear grooves in the basket where the tags on the plates touch the finger on the basket. This causes drag when trying to release the clutch. This can be cured by gently filing the grooves so the fingers on the basket are smooth again