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The original piston has a unusually long distance from the centre of the gudgeon pin to the top edge of the piston, on the original piston it is roughly 32mm. Most other 250cc trials bikes are around 28-29mm so to keep the squish clearance correct and the port timing you'd need to measure both pistons very accurately and then get the bottom of your cylinder machined down to suit. I've never done this so there may be other reasons why this not work, for example there might not be enough room for the front pipe to fit, there might not be enough material left to keep the coolant water ways the correct shape and the cylinder to frame mounting bracket would need altering to suit. You'd also need to make sure the piston ring stop pins are at the correct angles, the piston skirt doesn't hit the crank when it's at BDC and it doesn't open the exhaust port at TDC. The radius on the cylinder head would need checking and you'd need to re-machine the cylinder head and gasket to suit the larger diameter piston. So yes it may be possible but check everything first before making the plunge as it's not so easy to put material back on after.

The Honda CR250 piston is 66.4mm so way too small for a 315R, the Montesa has a 72.2mm piston.

Original piston kits still available: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/montesa-cota-315r-piston.html We had a couple of batches of the aftermarket piston rings and sent them back as the quality was terrible. The only nice option we have found at the moment is not easy: Dykes (Top Ring), just need gapping: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/72-25-dykes-piston-ring-top.html Flat Piston Rings - needs machining: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/72-25mm-x-1-2mm-flat-piston-ring.html On the flat piston rings there are a few issues that need to be sorted: 1. The internal diameter is about 0.5mm too small so needs machining out. 2. The pin cutouts are slightly too small so need filing out to 2mm wide and 1.8mm deep so it leaves 1mm to the outer edge of the ring. 3. The end gap is a little tight, so it will need checking and gapping to the right spec.

We had a long look through and emailed all the piston manufacturers we could think of, but unfortunately there isn't any perfect options that we know of. S3 are contemplating the idea of having a batch made, fingers crossed they will think the market is big enough to warrant it. If anyone does know if anything that will work, we would love to know.

1 Week to go till the Brough Rough N' 2017 - Updates Traffic: Chatsworth Country Fair is from the 1st-3rd September, so if you can, please avoid Baslow. Traffic will be bad trying to get into Chatsworth. If you can't avoid, add at least another 20min to your expected traveling time. Entries If you haven't already pre-entered, entries will be taken on the day. To make things quicker in the morning, please have a quick read through the Regs-Brough-2017 and bring a completed 2017 Brough Charity Trial Entry Form with you. Directions: If using a SatNav, please use the postcode: S32 1AH to Abney. Follow the arrows up Duper Lane, this is a very small road that is not suitable for anything larger than a big van. Please do not try and get to the start from Brough using Brough Lane. There will be direction signs from Hathersage, but if they are missing for any reason: In Hathersage, take the road to the train station / Grindleford Opposite the Plough Inn, take the right turn up to Abney. At Abney, take the right turn on to Duper Lane. Raffle: We have a lot of prizes donated for the raffle, please remember to bring your cash. All proceeds go to Bluebell Wood Children Hospice in Sheffield. I am sure I have missed loads, but a big thank you to the following for donating prizes: SplatShop, Apico, Jitsie, Michelin, Putoline, Birkett, MRS Ltd, MOTS, Fist Gloves, Scorpa, Sherco, Ipone, Global Brands, S3 Parts http://www.trialstalk.co.uk/?p=845 For more information on the event please see here: http://www.trialstalk.co.uk/?ai1ec_event=sh-brough-rough-n-charity-trial-3&instance_id=118

We have recently added a new event to our calendar - a trial at Stonedge Quarry in Chesterfield. It's a great venue, so it should be a brilliant day so we hope to see you there. For details please see the link below: http://www.trialscentral.com/events-calendar/eventdetail/5446/-/s-h-club-trial-stonedge-quarry

All the Sherco AJP master cylinders used a slightly different master cylinder and lever to all the other bikes, the distance from the pivot point to the plunger is shorter to make the clutch easier & slower. The original AJP Sherco levers are still available but expensive: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ajp-silver-clutch-lever-medium-sherco.html Or S3 do a version of their digit levers: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/s3-digit-ajp-grimeca-brake-clutch-levers.html The brake levers are the same as all the rest. Cheers, Tim

Hi Mike, Try using Putoline Nano Trans GP - http://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-nano-trans-gp.html When the clutches are worn, it makes a huge difference, you can freshly swap the oil with Putoline Light Gear Oil, and it will slip, change again with Nano Trans and it will work perfectly. Also see the following info below that Chris has done to help people out: The clutch fibre plates are 2.73mm when new The steel plates are 1.53mm new The clutch pressure plate is 5.30mm from where the friction plate makes contact to the outer edge. The clutch hub is 3.00mm from where the friction plate makes contact to the machined outer edge, the hub can also get quite grooved where the steel plates sit causing problems with clutch slipping and sticking. The basket is also prone to getting grooves where the friction plates sit, again causing problems with clutch slipping and sticking. Clutch springs can loose their springiness, the free length of the spring from new should be 45mm, if they get below 44mm they will cause slippage in high gears under high load. If the spring have shrunk replace the springs http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-springs.html or we do some washers to put extra tension on the springshttp://www.splatshop.co.uk/shim-washer-14x20x1-din-988.html We have found the main reason for the clutch to drag (other than mucky oil) to be the friction face's on the hub and the pressure plate been out of square, so if you have the equipment it might be worth clocking up the friction face and the clamping face to ensure they are parallel to each other, if not you can give the friction faces a quick clean up on the lathe assuming there is enough material left. With these faces being made of aluminium they usually wear more than the friction plates. Also I assume you have changed the oil recently, if not I'd recommend changing it. I personally change my gear oil every couple of months so it probably gets changed about every 8 times I ride the bike, this helps keep the clutch working well. The oil type makes quite a noticeable difference to the response of the Clutch, Putoline Nano Trans GP is the best oil we've tried in the Sherco, especially with the clutch, it's pretty good with the gear shifting too and it seams to work for a long time before it needs changing.http://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-nano-trans-gp.html Ipone's Box Xtrem is also pretty good and not quite as pricey http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ipone-box-x-trem-1ltr.html See the picture below for the washer that might be missing that causes very bad clutch slippage (highlighted in red) http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-washer-a82035.html This washer behind the clutch hub should also be 1mm thick The clutch thrust bearing is 2mm thick The washer for the above bearing is 1mm thick Cheers, Tim

The new Braktec callipers use an M8 banjo, they are slightly more expensive but you don't need to swap the hose: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/braktec-4-pot-front-brake-calliper-silver.html

We have still not been told by Sherco that it has been discontinued, so there is a chance they will hopefully get some more made at some point in the future. Glad to see you have found one.

Jitsie make some: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/jitsie-ajp-replacement-lever-bushes.html

There is supposedly a new version of the IRC's coming soon.

Hopefully they will take off, they are certainly as competitive as petrol for all riders except for those at the top level. But I think it will only be a few years before you see them be good enough for the very top riders. But now we have a bike that is loads easier to learn how to ride than a petrol bike, is very competitive all the way up to a high expert standard, with the benefit of it been fairly silent, unable to stall, really easy to maintain and costs pennies to charge up. Electric Motion are talking about competing in the SSDT as soon as possible, hopefully we can make this happen in the next couple of years. This will be a big achievement, and very exciting to have the 1st ever electric bike to do the SSDT. I see the big turning point for electric trials bike will be electric only competitions on land that you just couldn't use with petrol bikes, it would be quiet possible to have an electric trial in land next to housing estates. Everyone who I have met with a problem against motorbikes, it is nearly always to do with the noise. Being on the EM you get the same reaction as if you were on a mountain bike, it would be nice to get back riding on some of the land we have lost around here in the last few years.

Just the 1 battery, after the 2nd lap I did stop for 15min to have my lunch and plugged it in to give it a little bit extra juice, when I finished the trial it was just under half life on the battery so it would have easily managed the whole trial without the little charge. It has a little bit more resistance than a petrol bike when rolling the bike, but they are easy enough to push around. There isn't any engine braking unless you press the regenerative braking button or pull in the clutch lever. It then gives a reasonable amount of engine braking. It just has the 1 gear, speed wise the electric motor compared to a petrol bike will take you from slower than 1st to about 3rd gear. You get used to not using the clutch, and they have made the motor control that progressive the throttle isn't like an on/off switch, just touching the throttle is that slow, on a petrol bike you would need to slip the clutch in 1st to get the same speed.

It was me riding at the British Round yesterday on the EM, it was the first British Round I have ever done and it was a little bit hard for my riding level, but managed to get though most of the sections. I'll try and answer any questions. The bike did very well, I would have thought one of the top riders would be able to win or get at least top 3 on the expert route on this bike. It managed to get up all the steps, and it is so smooth with the power. I don't know how well it would be able to manage the championship route, but then to me most of those sections look impossible on my petrol bike. The clutch is just a switch at the moment, you can pull the clutch, put it on full throttle and dump the clutch, and it will instantly give you 100% of the power, I have not managed to get the hang of this though. For most steps you can just ride it on the throttle, because the motor gives off so much low down torque, it will start to pull even on really steep stuff, where a petrol bike you need to keep the revs up and slip the clutch, on the EM it will just keep pulling up it. It is hard to get used to not using the clutch, because the motor can go so slow, where normally you would slip the clutch going round technical corners, you don't need to with the EM. It's running a 57 tooth rear sprocket, but on a 428 pitch chain. But it's not something that is comparable with petrol bikes. It also runs a belt drive reduction between the motor and the front sprocket. Please put any picture you got on here, or email them over to me please, would love to see some. Any questions, please ask. Cheers, Tim Pearson