We have just setup a JustGiving page to take online raffle entries, we will assign 1 raffle ticket for each £1 you donate. The raffle will be drawn at the Brough Rough N trial on Saturday.
This Saturday the 31st August Sheffield & Hallamshire Motorcycle Club will be running a charity trial at Brough near Bradwell to raise money and awareness for SANDS (Stillbirth & Neonatal Death Charity)
SANDS is a charity which provides support to anybody who has been affected by the death of a baby as well as promoting research into reducing the number of babies lives lost and aiming to improve the quality of care and services offered to bereaved families. Currently 17 babies are stillborn or die shortly after birth every single day in the UK alone.
The trial will be a 17 section, 1 route trial, with easy route doing 2 laps, clubman route 3 laps, and the hard route doing 4 laps. The sections will be designed to be hard work, but achievable for clubman riders.
The trial starts at 1pm, so please be there in plenty of time. There should be a BBQ running and we will be having a raffle with some amazing prizes that we have been given. All money raised will be going to SANDS.
We currently have the following raffle prizes, with some other bits and bobs from some local companies.
From Apico, some Hebo Gloves and a Torx Helmet:
From Jitsie, a Dougie Lampkin shirt & an Albert Cabestany shirt:
From Wulfsport, 2 pairs of Neoprene gloves:
And from GRO, £80 worth of oil:
It should be a good lap around at about 5 miles and the weather is looking good, please come and make this event special.
When going to the trial, please go via Abney, use the postcode: S32 1AH in a Sat Nav. Do not attempt to drive over Brough Lane, it is not passible with road vehicles.
i) Check that it is a 520 chain, a few riders on 125's have fitted 420 chains & sprockets. The number on teeth on the rear sprocket will let you know, standard on the Gas Gas 125's with a 520 chain I believe is a 44, or if it is running a 420 chain it will be about 58 tooth.
Which Formula brake do you have? We have the newer 2013 levers in stock, but you will need to change your seal kit if you have the older style lever without the pivot point.
We not fully tested these yet to see if the mudguard or the screw will break first but these are the same size as the original screws but made from nylon so hopefully they might pull out or snap off before the mudguard, oh they are slightly larger in diameter too so you don't need the washers either.
The 2012 Sherco used (I think) a 9mm clutch M/C and a 9.5mm Brake The 2013 Sherco front brake uses a 10mm piston, not sure about the 2012
As a precaution I am going to clean out and flush both the clutch and brake sides with dot 5 and use it, just to avoid this possibility in the future. This will also ensure compatibility with the “mineral oil only” Gas Gas clutch since I think Sherco uses Brake fluid in the clutch.
As a word of caution Dot 5 brake Fluid is Silicon based it dosen't mix with either Dot 4 (Glycol based) or Mineral oil and I've no idea if the rubber seals on the piston or your slave cylinder are compatible with it, I guess you'll just have to try it on one of your old seal kits. If you do swap it make sure to flush all the old oil out by disassembling and cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol.
Functionally speaking I don't think there is any difference between the AJP caliper and the formula caliper on the rear.
I think you will have to swap the disc side wheel spacer, well you do on the Sherco anyway, the Sherco wheel spacer with the Formula brakes is 2.25mm wider.
The other option is to just swap back to the trusty AJP master cylinders, they use the same thread as the Formula brakes but sometimes the end of the pipe burs over slightly and requires filing down slightly so you can thread them back on.
We have just taken delivery of the 2013 Clice trousers and shirts, expecting the gloves and jackets to arrive shortly.
We are doing the same combination deals as last year, with everything in stock ready to try on in the shop, or for next day delivery online or phone order.
Sorry all that have looked and couldn't see any pictures, the pictures were only working if you were logged into the admin, so it worked fine for me and Chris, not so good for the rest of you. Should be sorted now.
The new bearings are made up of 3 layers, a steel backing, a porous bronze core with a final coating of PTFE and lead.
They are designed to run dry, the ptfe and the lead are very low in friction but if you want to grease them I can't see it doing any harm.
As regards to maintenance I just replace the bearings as soon as the PTFE/Lead coating has come off, which seams to be about every 6 months for me riding once a week. I also give mine a quick spray with a water dispersant after washing my bike to stop the steel bushing going rusty.
Sorry Ben only just seen you had replied again, yeah you will cause more damage if you carry on riding it so I'd stay off your bike till you've got it fixed.
I think the problem with the 2006 shock was probably to do with the thread been to coarse a pitch for the end eye to stay tight, the newer shocks have a finer thread and don't have the same problem. The guy who repaires shock absorbers for us sometimes uses a Ohlins body when a shock has come apart like this so the repaired shock is probably better than new and still alot cheaper than buying a new shock so it is still worth repairing.
With regard to the 2003 shock yes it is shorter than the 2006 onwards shocks, the 2006 to 2013 shocks are 266mm long eye to eye, the older shocks are about 258mm long eye to eye.
In that case you will the shock rebuilding as it will have lost all the gas pressure, it will probably need some new parts so I'd need to look at the shock before giving you a price.
With regards to which way around the shock should be mounted, most of the shocks it is better to mount them the other way around so you don't get mud and stones off the back wheel going on to the chrome shaft as this is a sealing surface and the dirt can wear the chrome away. But on a few of the Olle shocks (around 2006/7) the end eye piece (with the damping adjuster screw in it) was too large and it would hit the frame if it was mounted the other way around so they had to be mounted as shown in the picture above, if you've got one of these shocks I'd recommend making some kind of mud flap to stop to stick to the air box that will stop any muck going on the rear shock.
Oh the 2010/11 bikes can't have the shock inverted either as the spring gets in the way of the petrol tank.
Which part has come unscrewed, the end eye from the shaft or the end eye from the damper body?
If it's just unscrewed from the shaft and the shaft hasn't got too damaged you may be able to rescue it with a helicoil, if your not happy doing this yourself or you don't have the tools we can do it for you.
If it's come off the body you will have lost all the nitrogen charge and you won't be able to repair it yourself but we can get it repaired for you.
As above but lay the bike on it's side and take the clutch cover off and remove the clutch to release it, if it's been 4 years you'll be riding for days before it frees off on it's own. The clutch plates stick or corrode together when left for a long time.
Brough Rough 'n - Charity Trial (Near Hope Valley, Derbyshire)
in UK Trials Talk
Posted
We have just setup a JustGiving page to take online raffle entries, we will assign 1 raffle ticket for each £1 you donate. The raffle will be drawn at the Brough Rough N trial on Saturday.
Please donate on this link to receive an entry:
http://www.justgiving.com/BroughRoughN-Raffle