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nice!......always interested in new maps to try!
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lineaway sounds right, what happens if you rotate the lever one notch forward, does it go straight back to the correct position then?
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post a pic of how much smoke you have, if it is much more than a car exhaust type smoke, and you are not running it at 25:1 mix, the it could be a problem
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Cables $30 from the supplier named elsewhere in this forum, I bought one as a spare set.
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Quick rub with a bit of wet and dry and be good as new!
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Konrad, in you pic above it looks like the shift lever is rubbing on your case, get yourself a shift lever from a gas gas pro, fits straight on and clears the case easily, especially if you have a flywheel weight and spacer
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Pics of the inside of your case....sounds like the spring is slipping somehow
check the inside case casting where the loop fits to make sure the casting that holds the rubber stopper in place has not worn or cracked which would allow the loop to slip down past the rubber thus leading to the original issue again
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That just seems stupid of Xiu to sell the pack without the correct fingers, they should have included them and charged a little more to make the kit a straight bolt on mod
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About a thousand In total I read
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People should invest $30 in a lead like this https://elmwoodelectronics.ca/products/ftdi-serial-ttl-232-usb-cable tested elsewhere in the ossa forum and confirmed to work, remapping is quite straightforward once the connection between the ecu and computer is made
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On my current 300 at the moment I only use the termignoni map, I do have 2 loaded but can’t remember which other I put on! Slotting the hall sensor to modify the timing was the biggest change that smoothed things out for me
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Excellent document konrad. Your reference to moving a pin on the ecu, this was a mod for the early bikes that allowed the use of the dual mapping switch that was not available initially. I did that mod on my 2011 model when the dual map switch became available and the dealer loaded both up for me.....although the differences were only slight
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It is only a quadrant gear rotating the flywheel so rotating 5he gear lever beyond the useable stroke would not do the engine any good. Not ideal hitting the peg hangar but nothing to be done unless you put a rubber tube over the shaft to soften the blow
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Just pulled my ossa out, dusted it off after a year without being started and it started on the 4th kick, set them up right and they start just like any other bike
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Just need to be set up right, there are lots of things to mod to make them start easier, easy start battery assist, slot the hall sensor to mod the timing, make sure the tps is set correctly etc etc
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Can’t say that I have noticed it affected by temperature, seems to be pretty consistent regardless, and we do get some temp swings here in Canada
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3kicks from cold, first 2 to prime the fuel pump and the third to fire it up. One kick when warm but I also use the easy start to charge the system
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It is a push/interference fit. They can become loose
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Or you could remove the gearbox vent and insert a thin drift to gently tap the shaft out of the bearing seat.
i wonder if you will find that someone has previously had the box out and thread locked the shaft into the bearing to stop the float that the clutch fixer shaft fixed.
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You are positive that the clutch fixer rod has not been added?
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Are the 250 silencers the same as the 175 ones? If so I have one somewhere
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Gotta keep these old ossa’s running!,
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If that is the correct part number a quick search turned up this link to order one for $20: https://www.applied.com/c-skf/pcmf-353916-e/GLYCODUR-BUSHINGS/p/101511349
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but it's just so good looking......
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