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Hi JSP, here is a pic showing the location, and one pic showing the type of microsprinkler elbow I used. The elbow is held in with adhesive but is a tight push fit to start with to keep any moisture out. The hose routes up under the tank cover around the rad filler and then back down slightly so it is always pointing down.
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Add a breather tube and then seal the cover, first thing I did and not had an issue or need to remove the cover since
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Cut the first knurled section off the gas gas gear lever to make it a little smaller like the ossa tip, that way it won't stick out as much
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Ian, on the middle ossa in your pic, the one on the far right, do you have taller bars fitted? If so how do you find them?
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pics of the termignoni stripped down for repacking? I am curious as I have one on my factory R but it still sounds okay to me
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I'm with you mark. I have acquired quite a lot of various spares over the past year just in case
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I wouldn't do it without the puller. Some sensitive electronics behind the flywheel that you don't want to drill into when you dirll the flywheel. Also, if you take it off you can do it in a drill press so the holes are nice and straight when you tap them
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Drill and tap the flywheel and the thread lock the bolts. Make sure the bolts are no too long.
For the gear shift, dump the ossa one and replace with a gas gas pro lever, direct fit and easily misses the cover
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Never heard of one, but don't think it is necessary as the efi system should adjust automatically for air pressure and outside temps
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High capacity 9v battery like an energizer lithium will prime the fuel pump as well as energize the system
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Welcome back dabster.......it wasn't the same without you.....
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Hold on, we are on page 2 of a discussion involving Ossa and dabster has not chimed in yet.......I sense an imbalance in the universe.............
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Get the mapping and tps checked first. This could be a host of issues such as fuel pump, injector, I have seen dirty fuel pump connections affect starting so check, clean, and pack with dielectric grease if it is still bad after having it checked by birketts. It could also just be totally bogged up if you have been using to much oil in your gas, maybe it just needs the bollox revving out of it to clear it out
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Software is supposed to come with the cables along with a bunch of maps
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You always hark back to "when it first came out", that was 2011. My 2013 factory starts third kick from cold and first kick when warm thanks to improved mapping which I can do myself with the leads. You also keep going on about first batch gearboxes, how many of the newer bikes have failures? I am sure there are some but there are also gas gas boxes with issues and you would think with their time in production they would have it correct by now but apparently not. Same with rear bushes on the wheel, they tried something new and it didn't work so they fixed it. Regarding your comment about selling well, they are only out of business because they were dragged down by gas gas, the biggest manufacturer. Anyway, back to you dabster to pull down something else with your know it all attitude, perhaps Eddie can jump on the bandwagon as well.
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They are a great bike, the only mistake I think they made was not including the leads for remapping and diagnostics. With the leads they are very easy to maintain and keep running at optimal level. I would have another if they resurface, if not I'll keep the one I have and enjoy it!
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Tough to ignore the money when there are massive incentives to effectively merge with gas gas. I hope they emerge on their own again but time will tell. They would probably survived if the **** show that was gas gas hadn't dragged them down.
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10 and11are exhaust mounting points I believe, 12 is a chain roller off the top if gage chain. 6and 7 are mounting points for the rear shock reservoir on my 1998. 9 is for the rear brake light from the light kit
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As with anything, obscure bits may be a little more difficult to obtain, but they are also more often the parts that don't fail regularly. TrialsTribulations seem to have an excellent list of spares on their website, I am sure Birketts also does. If I can get spares here in Canada it must be easier in Blighty
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Still plenty of spares available for ossa if you need them
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Did one recently, it is very easy as it all just unplugs from the harness. No diagram really required as I don't think you can go wrong
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