Had something similar on my ossa, drove me nuts!. Turned out to be one side of my handlebar clamps was not as tight as it could be, nipped it up and the clicking was gone. Maybe a quarter turn of the bolt was all it took
Ossa's should have been sold with the diagnostic cables but weren't so you have to spend another $200 for a set, yes an extra expense but well worth it to keep the bike in top fettle. I still love my factory r and will be sticking with it. eFI is very easy to maintain with the software and a laptop. It will be interesting to see if the vertigo comes with the leads and software.
Lewisportusa are reluctant to sell the btwice one, I enquired and was told they are not selling them. You may get one at trials tribulations, for an original contact dual sport plus who are the canadian importer in brantford, Clint should hopefully be able to sort you out with one.
Just as an aside, you should not adjust the idle on the standard throttle body unless you can also reset the TPS which you need the leads for, the btwice version does away with this need......just need to get hold of one, rarer than unicorns apparently
Was it an easy job bilks? And are the benefits worth it. Also did you lower to the bottom of the frame tube, that sort of looks like the optimal place to me.
I don't think it's a montesa, certainly not like any I have ever seen. The engine looks more garelli-ish to me. Any other identifying marks? Maybe a clipic?
It's only a slight pull back before you start to curve the wheel and calliper upwards. Yes the hose is tight, once you have done it you will know the technique. Putting it back on is the same in reverse, hose is also tight then but it just falls back into place.
Never had to replace it but have had the cover off several times. It is fiddly for sure, I think I found it easier with the bike leaning over but you just have to watch the clutch top hat to make sure they don't slip below the fingers. The stopper itself just slides into its place. I think I have a "how to" on clutch cover removal and will email to you later when I get to work
you should buy a set just in case OSSA cannot extract themselves from the Gas Gas mess, at least you would be able to tune and reset the bike without having to travel. I would imagine a couple of drives back and to to Lewisport would pay for the leads.
Alpine Stars no stop, best boots I have ever owned.
So there you go, 3 different answers, who do you believe? All of us or non of us? Boot comfort is based on one thing only, foot size and shape. You won't know what us comfortable for you until you try them on!
difficult to say, the only thing I know is that I don't have an on/off switch and my battery has lasted for 2 years. I agree it seems strange that you are draining batteries in half a day as the actual charge when you press the button is very low. for it to drain, assuming the rest of the wiring is correct, there must be a short somewhere. Moreso if you are using a lithium high power battery as they should in theory last a lot longer than a regular 9v
This still sounds like a wiring problem. My energizer lithium Battery has been on my bike for nearly 2 years and is still going strong. I don't have a switch anywhere in the circuit, just the kill type button that I hold when kicking so I would guess that this may be what is causing the drain somehow
3/4second is the new easy start, 2014 onwards. 2013 and earlier use the 9v system which is basically the same principle, purpose being to per gargle the electrical system for easier starting. As per my post in the other string, check for spark by removing the plug as you have changed the plug cap
TPS is "throttle position sensor" and is attached to the throttle body on the left side as you sit on the bike. It senses the position of the throttle butterfly so the ecu can calculate fuel delivery etc. it has to be set to 5 degrees, much variation and trouble ensues.
Is the plug actually sparking? If it won't go at all and that is the last thing you changed (cap) I would start there
I don't know the resistance but how the **** do you manage to break a plug cap?
Further, do you know you are getting a spark at the plug? If you have not installed the new cap correctly maybe you are not getting any spark. As I said in my other post, get the TPS and idle setting checked first, if TPS has been moved or is not set correctly it will always be a pig to start.
It has to be something simple, my 2013 starts easy, especially with the easy start
Just to clarify, when you are kicking it over you are holding down the easy start button right? Not just pressing it and letting go before you kick it. You have to keep it pressed to charge the system, then when you move the kickstart into position you should hear it prime the pump, maybe not the spfirst kick but certainly on subsequent kicks, every time, especially if using a high power lithium battery. If still having issues I would definitely get it checked for TPS and idle which should be 5 degrees and approx 1400rpm or a little lower if you prefer
Ty 250/175 Seat ?
in Yamaha
Posted
Gotta be a 175 if it is a yam part. The 250's had an apron that extended from the rear of the seat over the rear frame loop