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But you could have called your friend and had him measure it and got the answer immediately instead of waiting 7 hours and 24 minutes until someone actually posted the reply you were looking for
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Don't know, just nip it up with an adjustable wrench or vice grips
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If it's loose why don't you just take it off and take it with you so you will be assured of getting the right size?
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I think that sounds about right, 3 degrees at the top translates to more down at the wheel, when you put the forks back in with the wheel in place it should look more noticeable
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What happens when you unscrew the axle? It should just screw out and then you pull it through
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The Jitsie Carbon Flow helmets are also very nice, I have no experience but like the way they look, unfortunately no one sells them in Canada
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Did you get this issue resolved?
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anyone managed to get a set of these diagnostic leads from Btwice yet? an if so, how are they, do they work as planned?
Also, anyone have one of the Btwice adjustable throttle bodies, same question, how are they and do they work as planned?
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Sorry, meant to say it was a 2013 mod
The bearing that the rod fits behind is in the case behind the crank breather elbow, you have to remove the gearbox cassette and then the circlip holding the bearing in place, you will also have to heat the case to get the bearing out. The head of the rod fits behind the bearing and the rod then goes through the clutch shaft bad is held in place by a nut. The rod also has a left hand thread which is handy to know for future
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The "clutch fixer rod" was a 2012 upgrade whose purpose is to lock the clutch shaft to the bearing. You can retrofit to earlier bikes but to do so you have to pull the box and the clutch shaft bearing and then install the head behind the bearing and reinstall. If you do it remember to threadlocker the nut onto the rod when tight as there have been reports of the nut coming loose which affects clutch pperformance
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Is the play in and out or side to side?
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Then I will see you there!
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Great idea, and looks like you have it all back together, when are you riding next?
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Where did you find a green one?
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I stuck a nipple on my 2011 by using the CID holes as suggested by ric, worked a treat, keep meaning to drill my 2013 for tegu same but haven't got around to it yet.
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Yeah, I didn't get that from the OP either. This is just wear and tear, if not what next? Are manufacturers going to be expected to warranty the frame where your boot rubs the paint off?.....
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could be a faulty pump or the connectors could have corrosion in them - take a look at this thread: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/47723-2011-no-spark/
sounds like a similar issue.
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Yes, with the battery connected when you move the kick start lever into position at the top of its stroke the pump should whir to pressurize the system
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Check the connections to the injector, also pill the bash plate and check all the pump connections as the get wet and corrode, clean and pack with dialectic grease if that is the case.
To test the fuel pump connect a 12 v battery source in place of the capacitor, when you move the kickstart into position you should hear the fuel pump prime with a whirring sound
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I would have thought it was only an anodizing anyway so some wear has to be expected for the amount of sliding they do. I am sure the black ones on my ossa will be the same eventually
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what does the e-mail actually say about the coating?
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I think it is a bearing and spacer kit to replace the bushing, carrier centres should have one in stock. The only time I saw one removed involved heat and prying but drifting it out with a bolt sounds the easier option
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Lewisportusa also advised me the same so I am waiting to see what comes out
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