canada280i

Can't the sag be set by use of the rebound and damping on the fork caps? Page 24 of the manual refers to the air bleed and adjustment screws so I would imaging that some sort of adjustment is available

Final update on this project: Rebuilt the GT80 engine and dropped it into the second TY80 chassis, couple of kicks and it fired straight up, advertised on the web and sold within 48hours. End result is a complete TY80 for the daughter to progress to once the Oset is too small. She is just learning the clutch/gear/rear foot brake set-up and seems to have the concept down. Thanks to all who offered advice on this in the beginning and throughout, it is very satisfying to watch her with a determined look on her face!

Borus had stated earlier that they come from the factory with GRO: The coolant that is used at the factory is produced by Global Racing Oil, 50% organic. Freezing point -36ºC Density 1,105 g/cm3 at 20ºC Boiling point in closed space: 220ºC my bike was new from the importer so would assume that the green stuff is GRO as above.

I just checked what I drained last night and it is still bright green with no separation, just looks like it came out of a bottle. The grey mix is a mystery, it will be interesting to see if your refill has any changes when you check it or if it was a one off with possible remnants from the casting or cleaning process during manufacture

Hey Deon, on a more serious note, I just checked my coolant and it is still a bright green throughout, no hint of grey or sludge.

Regardless of whether there is anything wrong with that coolant or not I would have to change it out of principle.......I could not possibly have anything with such a bland colour be a part of my dream machine! Just knowing that was in my bike would likely cost me a five.

does the drag go away when warmed up? I think a little bit of drag from cold may be normal until the oil warms up and is fully circulated around the plates etc.

Hi Stou, you may want to check out the Ossa Canada website, in particular this document from the importer regarding oil usage: http://www.ossacanada.ca/Ossa%20TR280i%20General%20Quick%20Guide%20R5.pdf There are also plenty of other technical bulletins and information on the site, if you get stuck or have a question you can also e-mail Ossa Canada, response and service is always excellent.

ipone Samurai fully synth, strawberry flavour for the mix, and Belray gear saver in the box

Kevin: PM sent. Thanks in advance!

Hi Deon, are you going to silicone all around the cover to seal it? I only ask because of condensation forming if sealed completely. I seem to recall on my previous 315 that the flywheel cover had a breather hose to let air in and out that prevented this and wonder if something similar would be beneficial. Battery Pack =

Problem solved! I picked up a second complete TY80 and made one good bike out of the two, so now I have a complete TY80 working for my daughter, and a spare rolling chassis and GT80 complete engine that I will probably sell as a project to someone for a couple of hunded dollars.

I toyed with going that way as well but had more difficulty finding a right size single throttle cable to replace the double oil pump/carb cable that came with the bike so the pump gear replacement was the cheapest option. If it fails again I will certainly be removing the pump and going the premix way.

So, just an update on where this project currently sits, I had to buy a new kickstart assembly ($40), new shift shaft ($40), nerw shift lever ($20), and a new kickstart shaft seal ($10), all sourced of e-bay. Unfortunately it turns out that some of the engine parts between a TY80 and a GT 80 are different which meant that the shift shaft was the wrong size so i had to get another for another $30, still, I will relist the NOS TY 80 one that I orginally bought to offset some of the cost. I thought I had everything covered last night and was getting excited to be entering the final gasket making phase before putting it all back together when I discoverd that the oil pump gear was missing, likely broken and removed at some point. A quick browse around e-bay and a complete new pump assembly, gear, shaft, and related hoses was ordered for the princely sum of $13 + shipping ($25) total, so I was very happy with that. Onve it arrives I will reassemble and hope that it starts with little or no effort.......fingers crossed!

So, I assume by the lack of postings on this thread since June 14 that everyones problems with starting have been solved.....good to hear!

I had a similar situation with my 24v but ended up removing the original connectors from the original throttle wires and replacing the new ones so that it just plugged in directly, worked perfectly.

Thanks Goudrons, you have been a great help, it is very much appreciated!

Hi Goudrons....one more question I am hoping you can answer for me. I looked up the engine number (2G9-200983) which appears to correspond to a 1978 Yamaha GT80 (Canadian model), do you knwo if this engine is the same in terms of parts? Also, will it therefore be geared wrong for trials or is this controlled by sprocket sizes. The frame and everything else that came with it are definitelky TY80 but if the engine is not going to be any good for trials I dont want to waste money on the repairs. Thanks!

Firstly, this is why I love this site! This is a great help to me and gives me the confidence to keep going with this project, thanks Goudrons! I wa looking at some of the ebay links and they reference that the parts also fit a YZ80, is the basic engine the same in a YZ80 as the TY80? if so, this will probably help me more as YZ motocross parts will be easier to source than TY parts here in Canada, especially thngs like gasket and seal kits. If this is the case, do you know up to what year are they similar? for example, would a gasket set for a 1977 YZ80 fit a 1974 TY80, or would it only be a 1974 YZ the same as a 1974 TY?

Goudrons and Charlyxty were kind enough to offer assistance with my electrical questions for my recent TY80 purchase. I stripped the side cases off the motor tonight and now have more engine related questions I am hoping someone can answer: 1: Can the gear shift shaft be replaced without splitting the cases? it looks like it just pulls right through from the clutch side (I hope so, the previous owner sheared the splnes off the end of the shaft with vise grips) 2: when I pulled the clutch case I noticed that one of the basket side pieces is snapped off. I will look for a replacement but if Ican;t get one will it still work okay? when I bought the bike the engine was out so I have no idea if it ran like this before. Apart from these two questions the insides look very clean, no oil leaks, gear select okay (apart from the knackered shaft), stator sparks like crazy. Daughter seems eager for me to get it fixed for her so thats another good thing. Ebay here I come for the bits. Any advice on the above will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks to Goudrons and Charlyxty for responses, they have certainly put me on the right track. This is a very interesting time as my daughter (who the bike is for) is very interested in the workings and what I am doing in the garage....quality time together! Anyway, based on your feedback I checked the wires last night and there are four coming from the stator, a black, a green, a yellow, and a green/red striped one. I assume the black is what I need to connect to the coil and then just cap the other 3. with the side casings off the internals look in surprising good condition, no stator rust or damage at all so I am hoping that a kickstarter fix will get her up and running so I can attempt to part some of my trials wisdom onto my daughter!

Hmmmm.....one wire? I think there are some extras then as I have 4 coming from the mag. I think the only one I need to be concerned about is the BlackWhite one that goes to the coil, does that sound right? Your advice is appreciated!

Thanks Goudrons, that gives me something to go at. So far it all looks pretty reasonable, just need to sigure out the wiring and this will help greatly. The only other real issue is that the kickstart hole is blanked off so I am assuming that either the shaft is snapped inside or the workings are just not there. Removing the side case this weekend to investigate before I source new parts. PRevious owner just used to bump it as his kids only rode it around a field.

Hi all, just picked up a 1974 TY80 for my daughter, stal of a deal but it is all in pieces. Does anyone have an electronic version of the manual available? PM me if you do!

Digga: I have just installed the dual map switch from Ossa Canada. You do have to have dual maps installed by your dealer, I think the functionality is available from map 13 onwards. Borus can probably chime in here with the correct mapping details. I have to say that the feature is pretty good, certainly nice to have the option available. I will say that even though I was supplied with the diagram for the pin modification on the ECU, it was still quite a fiddly job, although very satisfying once completed. Take your time and don't pull on any wires too much!