canada280i

I would do the bearing and pin before replating the barrel.

Motomerlin in the UK have them in stock at this link: http://www.motomerlin.org.uk/product/Boyesen_Reeds_for_Montesa_315_trials_boymo

I was skeptical as well at first but thought I would try a set. I had the boyesens in and back out for comparison and had to put them back in again, cleaner quicker throttle response, smoother reving all the way through. Engine response was much smoother with them in than the standard single petal reeds, best $40 I ever spent. You can find the number on the boyesen website at this direct link: http://boyesen.com/vaf/product/list/?category=%3F&make=21&model=205&option=205&year=626 , you can also probably get someone local to match a set and provide.

I had to do a similar fix on my 1997 315 as it was also making the "rattle". I pulled the barrel which seemed in quite good condition so didn't need any work. I replaced the piston, rings, top end bearing, pin, and clips, installed a new gasket, cleaned the inside of the head, put it all back together, second kick it fired up sounding sweet as the day the trials gods created her. ran it around the block gently for the next few days and nights to bed it in, been excellent ever since. If you don't already have a set of boyesen reeds installed you should bite the bullet and put a set in while you have it apart....makes a hell of a difference

Please tell me how you manage to get away with working on your kids Oset on the kitchen table!!

I'll throw my response in here, although you should wait for other opinions as well. I once re-packed my exhaust 4 times in the same day just to test the different qualities of each firmness of packing. The purpose of exhaust packing is to absorb sound waves and allow for expansion of exhaust gases exiting the cylinder. If you pack to tight the gases cannot expand enough and the sound cannot be absorbed into the packing. If you pack to loose the expanding gases will compact the packing within the confines of the silencer or mid-box eventually rendering it useless, and allowing it to move about. My experience has told me that the packing needs to be mid-way between too tight and too loose, I pack so that I can push my finger into it about half an inch, or pinch between my fingers but not enough so that my fingers touch. That way the exhaust gases have some room to expand in the chambers, but also the packing allows some movement to be able to absorb some of the sound waves while not being loose enough to be compressed away from the perforated tube the packing surrounds. I would also be interested in any other opinions on re-packing, I think I have found what works best for me and my 315 but that may not be the case for everyone.

In my youth I used to ride in the Congleton DMC on the top of Mow Cop, I remember looking out from the top just how flat it is......still nice and green though!

There is no way around it....pegs and stand are always going to get scratched and banged up. I painted my stand with a silver paint as close to the alloy swingarm as I could find, I always keep a can of the same silver handy so that when I am tinkering I can whip it off and quickly respray. For the footpeg hangers, I just used a paint-on semi gloss (armor coat here in Canada) but Hammerite would also do the trick, again, I keep a small can of the paint handy and re-paint them during downtime if they are particularly beat-up. I miss cheshire!

I have just switched to BelRay Gear Saver from Maxima and am very impressed so far with the feel of the clutch. I was considering trying ATF but the Belray was only a few bucks more so thought I would give it a shot first, feels great even in the cold of Canada

Thanks to all for the replies, I whipped out the pads and gave then a rub down even though they did not appear to be glazed, took it out for a blast and pumped the lever etc and it appears to have gotten its performace back....mystery apparently solved!

Thank Copemech. I will check everything later today. I would be surprised if the temp had anything to do with performance as it does not affect mmy car brakes in any way. I feel a strip-down/overhaul session coming on while my wife anddaughter decorate the xmas tree! Aaaah, the joys of xmas......

Thanks for the replies guys, but I don't think it is the pads, it seems more like the fluid is low (even though it is full and is not leaking), the lever at the bars pulls in much closer to the grip whereas 2 weeks ago when it was warmer I could one finger it and it would stop on a dime, that is why I was wondering if it was a byproduct of the temperature drop. I will run it around tomorrow to see if more work will get it back to its former glory. Pretty soon it will be too cold and too much snow to ride so I will have a long 4 months to figure it out.

2 weeks ago here in Canada it wsas still +10 degrees, today is is -2 degrees and the front brake on my Mont has become crap! So, the question is, is this crappy performance just a side effect of the sudden temp drop? Fluid level is spot on, it does get marginally better after a little use but still bites very close to the handlebar even though 2 weeks ago it was nice and sharp. The caliper is a single pot version, I have heard multiple times that I should upgrade to the 2 pot version but as you can imaging finding a reasonably priced 2 pot caliper for a 1997 mont here in Canada is rare as the proverbial rocking-horse sh*t! I do keep an eye on the English E-bay just in case one comes up but no luck so far (am an ex-pat so have family in the UK to assist with payment/postage etc.) If anyone in Canada has one I of course would be interested in hearing from you! Or, ifanyone has any suggestions as to how to improve the performance I would also be all ears! (fluids are all topped up, shes are 4 months new, disk is good and clean/free of grease, caliper has no leaks) Thanks for any advice.

Three words that should never be used in unison.....ball stone grinder.......ouch

A good point was made about drilling a million holes......I got around this by drilling less slightly larger ones, though not too big tht silencer packing can be pulled through and blown out.

It is not any noisier, I actually prefer the sound and feel of the straight through pipe. The gtone of the silencer will be dictated by how much packihg you put around the pipe. Don't pack too tight, the exhaust noise is reduced if the sound can expand throught the centre pipe holes andbe absorbed by the packing. You should pack firmly enough so that the pipe is surrounded completely but not tyoo tight that there is no "give" in the packing. The "give" is what allows the noise to be partially absorbed by the packing

Original piece was "S" shaped and was located by the end caps at either end. Should be surrounded by packing to prevent rattling. Mine rattled as they are not a tight fit so when I repacked mine I ditched the S-shaped pipe and just inserted a stratight piece of tube that I had taken the time to drill lots of holes into, works excellently! If you are not that ambitious just repack the old S-tube and reinsert into the canister and locate on the end caps.

I have had mine in the back of my Forester which is pretty similar in size, take off the rear fender, drop out the front wheel and it should go in, you may just have to loosen the bars and roll them backwards to give a couple more inches

why are you not able to get at the adjuster on the carb? you should back off the throttle cable adjusters as this will only increase the issue as the slightest tensioning of the throttle will cause the revs to fluctuate

the airvalve is for refilling with nitrogen, not air, please don't try to pump any air in. the sag can be improved by adding preload to the spring.

Thanks for the response. I had some free time today so actually drilled out a piece of pipe (took several hours of drilling)and repacked and inserted it, and I would have to agree with you that it actually did seem to add a little more pep. The less restriction in a straight pipe does make sense, although I would not have thought that the "s" original pipe would have been that restrictive. Anyway, the bottom line is that it sounds better, and seems to work better as well, so all is good.

I seem to recall reading on here somewhere in the Montesa Forum that a positive mod was to put a straight silencer baffle in, in place of the "s" shaped original. Can anyone offer a reason why this would be a better option than standard? or pro's and con's of such a mod.

Cut about 1.5 inches off the new one that you buy, do it carefully with a dremel sonic tool or similar. I had a similar issue with my mont and fixedc it this way

Re-packing the mid box on my 315r, previous owner did not do a very good job. I managed to get the splooge soaked old packing out but my question is, do I repack with stainless steel wool or muffler packing? I read somewhere that originally the mid box was steel wool packed, any idea? Also, how tight is too tight when putting the new packing in? I have read other reports on TC but they only say "dont pack too tight", can someone give me a real world example of what would be too tight or too loose so I can gauge how much to put back in before re-rivetting and sealing. Thanks for any advise and help.

but what a great section......steep drop into a tight gully and then a steep climb out