canada280i

yes, floating front disc

Thanks for the response, if I can't come up with anything more local I will contact them for a priceand then figure out the postage costs to see if it is worth it in the long run.

cna you wind the spring around one more turn to add more tension?

Had the rear shock off my 315r last night (Showa I believe) while installing a new set of Boyesen Reeds, and noticed a small amount of oil had leaked out from what I think is one of the wrench holes on the top cap of the damper. This was after the shock had been laid on its side for a while when installing the reeds. After re-install and much bouncing ther does not seem to be any further leakage and the shock appears to be working okay, although I bought the bike used and have never known any different. However, the oil leakage does concern me and wonder if a seal may be on the way out and a rebuild required. So...does anyone have any similar experience and can let me know how they proceeded, or if it is a seal going, where can I get a rebuild kit, and is there anyone in the Toronto area that will do the rebuild. I figure a rebuild is cheaper than a new shock. Borus - I think you are in my area, and because I cannot yet afford a new Ossa, do you know of anyone that would do a shock rebuild? Thanks in advance for any replies.

Click my name in the top left corner of this post, one of the options on my profile page is to PM me a message

Just take off the caps, the left one (as you sit on the bike) may be under a little pressure as it is the one with the spring under it, but it is not much. Then undo the drain plus at the bottom of the forks and drain out all the oil. A more thorough way to get al lthe oil out is to remove the forks themselves and turn upside down and drain the oil straing out of the top of the fork, but that involves removal of mudguard and wheel etc. Refill with some good 5wt fork oil, I use Maxima over here, 300cc per side I think, and reassemble in reverse. I have a .PDF document about Paoli forks and how to change seals etc, PM me your e-mail if you want it.

I wish there was an Ontario supplier of bits in general, I have to go either to Cascade in BC(excellent service) or to Lewisport in California (also excellent service but keep getting hit with import taxes ). It is frustrating that I cannot buy a front number plate locally!

Thanks for the response. Currently that is exactly how it is routed as that is the way indicated in the manual. I have tried all combination of other ways but settled back to the standard as that is the one where the issue is less noticable (but still there). Its just one of those silly things that is more annoying mainly because I cannot solve the issue!.......bugger......

okay, had the tank off my 315 to top up/check the coolant, put it all back together and made sure the throttle cable was routed as it was when I took it off, however, this is where the fun (read annoying frustration) started. I started the monty to make sure the cable was performing okay, and it was, except when the bars are turned all the way to the right. When I do this and rev the engine slightly the motor runs on a little, it only returns to tick-over when I turn the bars back towards centre. It does not happen if I turn tio the left and reve the engine, only the right. If the bike is ticking over and I turn the bars to the right it stays in tick-over until I rev the engine, then it revs up and settles back but to a fast tickover. I have routed the cable evey different way I can imagine under the tank, some routings are better than others but I still cannot get rid of this completely. Hopefully someone on here can offer up a solution or at leasdt another suggestion. The cable moves freely, does not have any kinks, splits, or frays, there is a little play in the throttle twistgrip, and the cable does not move at all when the bars are turned (does not look like it is stretching). Help!

There is not an external one fitted as standard, but if your pedal is like mine and didn't return all the way back you can just add one, take a look atmy bike in the garage, there is a picture there of my return spring

HP HQ is pretty close to where I work in Mississauga, I live a little further east in a town called Milton. Good luck on your quest, you won't regret it!

Thats Me! Moved to Canada 13 years ago and never looked back. Recently got back into trials after a more than 20 year layoff. Mind still says "go for it".....body says "are you crazy".....but still loving it. There is an active Ontario trials scene, details at www.trialsontario.ca - I think Borus (in this forum) can provide you with additional details, I think he also has a practice ground in the GTA (greater Toronto area) which is very close to where I live, although I have not been there yet (but hope to soon!) Immigration process was a 3 year odyssey for me, although it was the absolute best move I ever made, and more than worth the red tape that you invariably have to go through. Good luck!

Amazing how one innocent little question brings out the best in people, only four replies before it was switched to porn.....excellent!

Amazing how one innocent little question brings out the best in people, four replies before it was switched to porn.....excellent!

Just 'cos i'm nosey.......what goes on in "Test and Development"? There are 479 topics and over 5000 replies so it must be interesting!

It is a real pain in the ar*e!! you have to loosen or remove the front pipe (so that ther is some play to wiggle the mid boxloose), remove the rear wheel, airbox, shock absorber, and then slide the box out of the rear - you can leave the carb attached as the rubber mount will allow some play to get it by. As I said at the beginning...a real pain in the ar*e......but very satisfying one rfemoved and repacked (assuming that is what you are doing) Good luck!!

I too use this method of heating and cooling and can vouch for it working to bed the pads in, however I think you still have to have a decent bleed to take all the sponge out of the lever first before sharpening up the pads with the quenching method

I use DOT 4 and have never had any issues.

Get a length of hose attached to a large syringe (oil mix/gearbox filler type), attach to the bleed nipple and literally suck the fluid through, helps if you have another body to keep the reservoir topped up while you are sucking it through. When no more bubbles, just clean fluid, simply nip the nipple back up and done!

I can vouch for this! I also had the same issue with my front brake and searched on these forums for a solution. Tried this and voila!....fixed, front brake sharper than jack the rippers knife.

I have the same AJP/Grimeca setup on my early Mont and was also looking for some new levers. I prefer the short type and Lewissport had some gas gas enduro levers on for $15 the pair. I was told that they would not fit but ordered them anyway as I was willing to risk $15 and was sure I could make them fit. Anyway, with very little modification and the use of slightly longer stop adjusters they pretty much bolted straight on, so a definite bargain and a new set of levers to boot!

Hi there. I can't speak for the replacement footpegs but I also had slightly droopy pegs on my 315r so I pulled them off and ran a weld bead on the worn part of the page where it meets the bracket, then grinded it down on a slight angle so that when I put them back on the bike they were a closer fit and pointed slightly upwards. Another thing I noticed with the stock pegs were that the pin holes were ovaled which also allowed a little droop, for this I simply drilled out the holes to make them round again and then used an oversized bolt to fit perfectly in the new hole (stainless steel). I, like you, just could not justify $200 for a new set of Ti or aluminum pegs. For the Lewissport lift kit. I ordered one myself and it was the best part I ever bought, it completely livened up the back end as well as giving me extra lift, personally I find the setup of my bike perfectly suited to my riding style - the only other thing I did was to move the front forks down through the trees a little so that I just have about 5 mm of fork leg protrudinig through the top yolk. Mandy and Adrian at Lewissport are excellent to deal with and very friendly.

Did you manage to fix this? if so, what was the issue in the end?

Hi Dacota: I have just completed a top end rebuild myself (see post under "more piston slap - how do I know), I have to say that I dod notice an increase in kickstarter resistance when I put it all back together but not a completely stuck starter, especially if it kicks over okay with no plug in. Hopefully someone with more experience than me can offer a solution on here.

To be honest I don;t know. When I purchasd the bike it ame with a complete piston kit, piston, pin, clips, bearing, and rings, the only thing I had to get were new head and base gaskets. the person I bought it from purchased all the bits through the tryals shop as a kit (I havethe receipts, he is also very mechanically minded so I just assumed that he would have bought the right stuff. As I said in my previous post, it is now purring with no more rattle from the top end bearing which had noticabloe play in it.