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canada280i

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Everything posted by canada280i
 
 
  1. that looks like a specific type of bulb, automotive? I need to find out the voltage output from the connector and then try to find something suitable
  2. Perfect, thanks for checking, this gives me something more to go on
  3. I just revised my earlier post as it still does not work.......just an annoyance now!
  4. I just revised my earlier post as it still does not work.......just an annoyance now!
  5. scratch what I said earlier, I now wonder if the official ossa fuel indicator is an led or regular bulb? This now has me perplexed. Mark, can you tell if the light on your explorer is led or regular? Regardless of how much fuel is in the bike an led bulb is either lit all the time or off all the time depending on which way I wire the bulb so I wonder if a regular bulb that accepts a charge regardless of how it is wired is the key.......or is my sensor just screwed because the led bulb just stays lit regardless of fuel level.......questions questions questions.....on an issue that is meaningless and now just an annoyance!
  6. BTDC = before top dead centre, which is the timing reference for the sparkplug basically. TPS at 5.0 should still allow the bike to fire and run assuming there is a spark and fuel Behind the flywheel there is the stator, you need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. Have you tried using the software to fire the sparkplug to see if you get any spark (by taking the plug out and resting against the head) If no spark I suppose you could have a stator related issue. This is confusing as the software is giving you some readings which means that it is able to connect and read from some onboard sensors. ECU pins look fine and not corroded at all so that at least seems ok
  7. Mine did not cone with a mag cover, just the regular plastic one
  8. If i recall that bike had a flywheel weight on it like mine, which in combo with the timing mod does seem to help
  9. No real tricks, from cold I give it a couple of kicks holding the battery button down, the fuel pump can be heard, and then on the third kick it always fires right up. I am experimenting at the moment with a slightly retarded timing set up at the hall sensor, seems to make the engine smoother and very difficult to stall . First real test next weekend so I'll let you know any improvements or not
  10. what is the current TPS voltage reading?
  11. sorry, yes, I remember you now, how is the bike running?
  12. If you reverse the wires does the light go out? Also, are you in BC? looks like you have a Factory R, not many of those around in Canada
  13. Once you are connected I would poke around and familiarize yourself with the different screens before moving on to things like tps settings
  14. I never tried it with 7 or higher, my "garage" laptop,had Xp on it so that is what I use. I will try my work laptop which is running windows 7 in the morning and report back
  15. Pics are as follows 1. Prolific sub to serial com port driver settings which I think win xp just auto detected and loaded when I plugged the USB adapter in 2. Screenshot showing the cannot connect message. The ecu is not connected and the bike system is not charged with 12 v so this is normal at this stage 3. System devices list showing the prolific adapter on com 5 4. Pic of the adapter wire, I think 10 dollars from best buy 5. Crappy old toshiba running win xp with 1 gig of ram. Takes an age to fire up but runs the software with no issue
  16. Cold here in Toronto as well. The yellow triangle indicates an issue of some sort but it could just be a Windows 7 issue. I just took some pics of my equipment and computer settings as follows
  17. I am running a windows XP laptop (old Toshiba) and an insignia USB to DB9 (serial) adapter cable. I can't find the exact cable on the bestbuy website anymore but it is essentially one of these: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/cables-to-go-cables-to-go-1-5-ft-usb-to-db9-serial-adapter-cable-26886/10196119.aspx? The way my cable is constructed it does not look like there is any on-board circuitry unless it is hidden in the moulding of the ends. I will take some pics on the weekend and post them up so you can see what I have
  18. Mark, when you say electronics do you mean actual circuitry in the adapter ir do you mean software? I just use a standard USB to serial adapter that cost me a few dollars from Best Buy
  19. the more I look into this I begin to think that it is really just a windows 7 issue. Do you know anyone with a laptop running XP that you could try? I would be interested to know if it just fired right up on XP
  20. If you specify a com port number on your computer you must also set the same com port on the software and then plug the USB into the same port each time. When I did this I selected com 5 and it always works as long as I use the same USB port on the laptop. Is I plug into a different USB port it does not work as it is looking for com 5 on a different port
  21. I think I just found a generic USB to serial driver and installed it, I don't know if this is what used but a driver and instructions are at this link....http://www.tri-plc.com/USB-RS232/drivers.htm which I found when looking for a generic Xp driver. It's all about the com port.
  22. It won't, the smaller port is the vga out port which is for video or plugging in an LCD projector
  23. A $5 adapter from Best Buy may be a cheaper and easier fix than trying to find a laptop with a serial port, but as it's just a wire adapter I don't see how they can quit working unless the wires physically break
 
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