canada280i

found this old post while searching for a similar solution.....anyone any idea on what could be causing the false neutrals and general choppy gear change. Nothing behind the case looks out of place or worn very much. Bike is an 88 TY mono.

termi is definitely lighter, I have had both, although I would not pay the money for one.

having seen who you got the bike from I would be quite sure that it is in tip-top condition and ready to go without any further maintenance required

You won't regret it, brilliant bike. There is no fuel on/off. Ask away if you have questions, I like to think I know a thing or 2 about them

The $650 cost would have been for the genuine ossa part, a version like the btwice one would have been good to be included as they are certainly good to have to keep the ossa running right

Double answer.......I basically butchered my old one to get it apart but in doing so discovered that the drive gear is essentially a shrink fit on the shaft which is fine putting together but more difficult taking apart as heat around the seal is not good. Once the drive gear is off you can get at the retaining clip and take the rest apart. When I had my issue the bike was overheating a little. When I put the new one on I noticed the outer water pump case got very very hot which did not seem normal to me. Took me a while to figure out but my 300 did not have a gasket between the pump housing and engine case, but the parts book indicated one was available. I made one and put it on and problem solved immediately. From this I believe that without the gasket the fins were rubbing on the housing inside when the pump was tightened but the gasket basically corrected this. That was 2 years ago and no problems since. Looking at new water pumps (I have 2) there is sometimes discrepancy between how far the drive gear is on the shaft, only very very small difference but possibly enough to put pressure on the shaft when tightened which I believe led to internal rubbing on the case. I think I still have the old one if interested I will post a pic of the pieces tonight

I had a waterpump go but diagnosing it was not easy as they don't easily come apart. In the end I narrowed it down and replaced it and then took the old one apart and the fins had worn down so it was not pumping enough coolant. A tell tale sign was small black flecks floating in the coolant which was the worn plastic fins pieces. Looks a lot like carbon blow by so can be misdiagnosed as a blown head o ring

I once had a similar "browning" effect, not on the piston itself, but definitely caused by it being "agitated" a little too much in the barrel

failing that just order from a UK location like Cambs Trial Centre, I believe they do intl shipping. Where in Ontario?

Mine came with a 10' I have thought about trying a 9 but haven't got around to it yet.

Wait.....it may have just come to me, are you looking for a temporary oil filler plug?

I now need to know what this post is about as I have absolutely no idea!

Adrian probably uses the official ossa version as a dealer/importer for the brand he would have been supplied with them

Yes it works, and in my opinion is essential for keeping these bikes running tip top

Yes, I am currently running 102% to see how it goes

stihl is German though..........and orange......

I thought on the original loom there were only specific wires that would fit into each connector

is use MTB pads, loosen the boots a little and they fit down the shin nicely and offer a nice big knee cup. I started after mashing my knee up by falling on rocks with it as well, don't ride without them now

Not related to dabster by any chance are you.........

Well then I better start experimenting. I currently only very lightly oil my main air filter. I have a jitsie pre filter also installed which I oil a little more, I find the prefilter catches all the dirt before it hits the main filter. I also run carbon reeds and also have the termignoni muffler. I'll start at 103% and go from there. So as I understand it, by increasing the fuel to 103% I am forcing the use of more fuel at a given throttle opening, correct?

In the diagnostic software there is a setting that allows an increase or decrease in the amount of fuel the bike uses. Anyone messed with this? What is the purpose? Default setting is of course 100 % but can be changed by +- 5%

I always wished someone from the factory or who had been trained by the factory would post a detailed "how to" on the process and steps to follow to correctly set up the OSSA. I think I know what I'm doing but really have no idea if the process I follow is correct or if I miss something somewhere. The bike seems to be running okay so I must be doing something right but who really knows!

I have a 2013 factory R, brilliant bike, starts easy, runs perfect.....buy it if the price is right

ah Dabster...........no Ossa related post would be the same without you...

Have you reached out to any ossa owners on here to see if any of them are close to you with a cable who could run a quick diagnostic? There must be someone rather than wait 2 weeks for birketts, that is ridiculous.