found this old post while searching for a similar solution.....anyone any idea on what could be causing the false neutrals and general choppy gear change. Nothing behind the case looks out of place or worn very much. Bike is an 88 TY mono.
The $650 cost would have been for the genuine ossa part, a version like the btwice one would have been good to be included as they are certainly good to have to keep the ossa running right
Double answer.......I basically butchered my old one to get it apart but in doing so discovered that the drive gear is essentially a shrink fit on the shaft which is fine putting together but more difficult taking apart as heat around the seal is not good. Once the drive gear is off you can get at the retaining clip and take the rest apart.
When I had my issue the bike was overheating a little. When I put the new one on I noticed the outer water pump case got very very hot which did not seem normal to me. Took me a while to figure out but my 300 did not have a gasket between the pump housing and engine case, but the parts book indicated one was available. I made one and put it on and problem solved immediately. From this I believe that without the gasket the fins were rubbing on the housing inside when the pump was tightened but the gasket basically corrected this. That was 2 years ago and no problems since. Looking at new water pumps (I have 2) there is sometimes discrepancy between how far the drive gear is on the shaft, only very very small difference but possibly enough to put pressure on the shaft when tightened which I believe led to internal rubbing on the case.
I think I still have the old one if interested I will post a pic of the pieces tonight
I had a waterpump go but diagnosing it was not easy as they don't easily come apart. In the end I narrowed it down and replaced it and then took the old one apart and the fins had worn down so it was not pumping enough coolant. A tell tale sign was small black flecks floating in the coolant which was the worn plastic fins pieces. Looks a lot like carbon blow by so can be misdiagnosed as a blown head o ring
is use MTB pads, loosen the boots a little and they fit down the shin nicely and offer a nice big knee cup. I started after mashing my knee up by falling on rocks with it as well, don't ride without them now
Well then I better start experimenting. I currently only very lightly oil my main air filter. I have a jitsie pre filter also installed which I oil a little more, I find the prefilter catches all the dirt before it hits the main filter. I also run carbon reeds and also have the termignoni muffler. I'll start at 103% and go from there. So as I understand it, by increasing the fuel to 103% I am forcing the use of more fuel at a given throttle opening, correct?
In the diagnostic software there is a setting that allows an increase or decrease in the amount of fuel the bike uses. Anyone messed with this? What is the purpose? Default setting is of course 100 % but can be changed by +- 5%
I always wished someone from the factory or who had been trained by the factory would post a detailed "how to" on the process and steps to follow to correctly set up the OSSA. I think I know what I'm doing but really have no idea if the process I follow is correct or if I miss something somewhere. The bike seems to be running okay so I must be doing something right but who really knows!
Have you reached out to any ossa owners on here to see if any of them are close to you with a cable who could run a quick diagnostic? There must be someone rather than wait 2 weeks for birketts, that is ridiculous.
TY250 mono gear selection
in Yamaha
Posted
found this old post while searching for a similar solution.....anyone any idea on what could be causing the false neutrals and general choppy gear change. Nothing behind the case looks out of place or worn very much. Bike is an 88 TY mono.