handsome_al

Usually it's old oil gone thick and the plates are stuck together. Quite often you can stick it in 4th or 5th gear and rock to and fro to try and "free" the plates then start it.

1. Spark at the plug when out of the engine doesn't mean the plug is "good". I may not spark under compression. Try narrowing the gap! 2. Is the ignition timed correctly? 3. How old is the fuel? New fuel often cures all ailments. 4. Engine needs spark, fuel and air to run. Spray easy start into the carb inlet. If it starts, then you aren't getting fuel. If it doesn't start, you know you've just given it fuel so it must be ignition related (ie: timing, plug, HT lead, coil etc) ..... but you have spark so I'd go for plug, then timing.

Ask John Crane at TY Trials http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/cat_651028-6-TYZ250-Parts.html

yamty .................. when you say "the center adjustment set to how it says in the manual" did you mean the pushrod/ball adjuster? Last time I did mine, I had to push the lever hard (to keep it line-up with the case mark) while adjusting the pushrod screw. I assume that the ball / rod / lever-arm are not worn in any way? If yours is like mine then it's a very fine line between bite or slip. Good luck Alan

Hi Nils I know nothing about the TY125 but my TY250 mono was having serious gear selection problems .... even after full rebuild. Adding Molyslip Multiglide (motorcycle wet clutch) has made a BIG difference. Good luck Alan

The chamfers ARE necessary! They aren't huge; simply a de-burring of the edge.otherwise they act as a shearing effect. Also the slightest trace of debris (honing crap etc) left inside a 'dirty' port would cause that sort of damage in under 10 minutes. Did you wash it out and 'air-gun' it or just take the reputable man's word for it? Personally, I'd be taking a trip back for compensation. I had a friend who took an open-topped petrol can and a lighter when he went to see a 'wide-boy' and demanded his money back. It worked for him!!

Nice! Just wish they'd gone for the original soundtrack ........ bikes sound soooooooooo much better!

Well I've searched the workshop manual and replacing a spring does not get mentioned. What is mentioned though is the Damper Rod or Oil Seal, if damaged - replace the whole unit! It does not say 'why' (ie. spares unavailable etc) therefore this leads me to think it's none-dismantle-able.... ...... also the manual goes into great depth about using the correct method for disposing of the shock !!! Someone out there MUST have tried this before.

Variety is the spice of life! I'll tell you what; why don't you sit down, draw up a list of all those who are better than you and ban them instead? Oh what fun you will have competing against ....... erm, no-one!!

I have to agree with Andy.T where he says about an 'untreated' fibreglass tank. Here's mine 2 weeks after painting and had NEVER had petrol added to it since washing it out prior to painting. A classic dose of 'tank-warts' if ever there was one! Within a month of adding petrol, the 'tank-warts' had turned into huge 'blisters' and most of the paint had peeled off in layers! I've stripped it since then and added Caswell GTS1750 sealer but as I'm still in the process of repainting it, I can't say if the Caswell's has cure it ................. yet!

I've done almost the same 'mod' to my top yoke too. And here was me thinking I was so clever to come up with such an idea! Feels much better for me .... 1" forward / 1" higher

Sorry I've no idea of what speed but if it helps, the guy I bought mine off had 14/35 gearing fitted for - as he called it - long road sections .

Why is it that government(s) always try to crucify those who truly want to help others? Signing was the greatest of pleasure!

We obviously both share the same lack of skill then! You say you have a 35t sprocket to try therefore I assume you are running std 12/42 (3.5:1) gearing at present? You will see, going to 12/35 (2.91:1) gearing, a nice but subtle difference.

I don't see why not if ............ 1. You don't mind standing all the time or 2. You have very short legs that stop your knees from sticking up under your chin (like mine do) when seated. I rode a 15 mile - non-stop, standing all the way - 'Vinduro' lap last year. It was fun but I was cream-crackered when I finished. You may want to raise the gearing slightly too ..... though greenlaning isn't (shouldn't be) about speed!!

Hopefully - if this works - you should see the DT kickstart before and after lengthening by 5inches to fit the TY. /[/img] [/img]

If you want to email me I'll gladly send you the before and after. In hindsight I should have taken some "in betweens" too but I was getting excited! Oh well, as Homer Simpson says, "D'oh!" Having said that, there must be a way of posting photos here. After all bestrcpilot did it.

Thanks for the input guy53 .......... but zerorev3rev4's question about kickstart was right; followed-up with bestrcpilot's photo. I've checked back with photos of when I bought it (14 months back) and it did have the correct kickstart fitted; thing is it snapped within a few days where it had been previously welded. I'd been given a "spare" (obviously I didn't check the length) so fitted that. It's only 1.5" longer than the DT that I later fitted (spare had knackered pivot) so I suppose that's why I've always had trouble kicking it over! Anyway, to waffle-on further, I've cut the DT in half, drilled and tapped an M8 thread in each end, added a section of old Montesa kick-lever (also tapped M8), welded it up and it looks identical to bestrcpilot's photo above. Even better is the fact that it kicks over beautifully now! I'd add a photo but that's far too complicated for me! lol Thanks everyone .......

bestrcpilot Thanks for replying; and the photo. If the DT kickstart was overlaid onto your photo it would only just reach the middle of the reed valve at the very most! Look out Ebay, here I come .............. again!

Thanks for the quick reply. Sadly the answer is NO. It has a DT125 kickstart fitted as the original snapped (where it had been welded) not long after I got it. I have to say though that even with the longer lever it wasn't that much easier to turn over.

My 1985 TY250 has always (well for the year that I've had it anyway) been really hard to turn over on the kickstart - and I'm not a little lad either! The mains and conrod were rumbling, so I've stripped and replaced them and the seals etc ........... and now it's even more difficult to turn over! I was turning it over by hand (using the clutch) as it was being assembled - that was until I fitted the head and spark-plug - so it's free enough. If I take the spark-plug out it's OKAY; but put the plug back in and it's like a diesel to crank over. I don't know if it's a TY piston - as it was rebored previous to me buying it - but the piston doesn't foul the head or the spark-plug. Anyone got any ideas to help an elderly gentleman in his time of need? Thanks (in anticipation!)

Hi, I did it to mine; cut the rests off, made my own drop-plates and welded them back in new position .... doesn't feel any different to me! Mind you I'm about as subtle as a brick sh*thouse when it comes to feeling differences. Having said that though, it wheelies a lot easier. I also realised afterwards that it makes the brake pedal too far forward and too high. You can rotate it downwards on the splines and adjust the rod but it's still out of reach. I ended-up shortening and re-welding mine to fit. Funnily enough I didn't notice any difference in leverage either! D'oh! I'd be interested to hear how you find them ........ if you do the mod that is! Good luck AL

Hi, For what it's worth, I run BR6ES in my 59N 250 - manual says B6EV. The previous owner used BR8ES (which is what that website you mentioned, lists). Sorry but I'm not sure if my plug-cap is/isn't the resistor type; all I know is that it works. John Crane [ http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_43121--3-Spark-Plug-TY250-Mono-amp-Pinky.html ] lists the BR6ES for the 250L.

Thanks guys for taking the time to reply....and Jon for scanning the pages. The mark on the crankcase is the same as on mine, so at least I now know that's correct. Flywheel mark? Well if the 'line' that I think is the timing mark is somewhere near when I strobe it, then that's the mark I'll go off. Thanks once again. Alan

Hi everyone, I'm trying to locate the timing marks on my '85 TY250 mono but my manual has been 'thumbed' so much by the previous owner that I can't make out from the photos where/what the marks are! The flywheel has a sort of long scratch mark running across the flywheel weight-band towards the crankcase; and the crankcase itself has what looks to be a [chiseled] 'vertical mark' on the mating face that the ignition cover bolts onto. Are these what the manual is refering to as I can't find much else? I'd post a photo but I'm not that clever! Even if I do it static via the 2.8mm BTDC with a depth gauge down the barrel, I still don't know where, and with what, to line the back-plate up with. The bike starts and runs quite well but I'd still like to check it for peace-of-mind. Truly hope someone can help with this: thank you in anticipation .... Alan